Forrest 20 tooth ripping blade

[Steve Wilde]

I purchased a 20 tooth ripping blade from woodcraft a couple months ago, but used it today for the first time. It left the worst looking edge i've ever seen come off of a table saw! The edge is scalloped, if that make sense? I'd say the saw marks are about 1/16 deep, like nothing i've ever seen! Is this normal for this blade or do I have one with a bent tooth or something? Thanks
Steve

[Martin Wasner]

A 20 tooth blade isn't going to leave an awesome edge. Usually for fast ripping. A 1/16" is certainly excessive though and something is up. Set it on a flat surface on each face, like the saw top, and see if it rocks. Could be bent, could be a bad tooth.

[Tom M King]

I'm only concerned with fast with that blade. We used it for ripping sapwood off of Cypress boards to make shingles, and it would cut as fast as we could push the board through, as in unbelievably fast.

[Bruce Page]

I would contact Forrest about it. My 30 tooth Freud glue line rip leaves a glass smooth edge.

[Patrick Walsh]

I have one, only used it once and it left the kinda cut i would expect. I dont think 1/16th rash but nothing i would consider using for anything other than dimensioning up really rough, extra thick stock.

My 46 tooth seems to do everything as good as i need a TS blade to do it.

[Steve Wilde]

Dang, I probably should have bought a 30 tooth.... Live and learn...Anyone want to buy a slightly used blade? I ripped a piece less than 20" long with it, and thats all!

[Lee Schierer]

Dang, I probably should have bought a 30 tooth.... Live and learn...Anyone want to buy a slightly used blade? I ripped a piece less than 20" long with it, and thats all!

I would still check for a bent tooth or warped blade body. 1/16" deep gouges indicate that something isn't right.

[keith micinski]

I run a 24 tooth ripping blade by Freud and I get as good of an edge as I get with my glue line rip blade, so much so I don't even use the glue line anymore unless the 24 tooth is dull and being sharpened. I would have to assume there is a defect with that blade.

[scott spencer]

It sounds like something is wrong. The cut won't be glass smooth with a 20T blade, but it should be better than what you described. I have an Amana 20T ripper that usually leaves a glue ready edge. Contact Forrest.

[Art Mann]

I have a Freud 20 tooth thin kerf ripping blade and the cut pattern is just barely noticeable. You have to look to find it. I can't believe the Forrest would be worse than a Freud. Maybe the material was pushed through too fast or without firm enough control.

[Tom M King]

Did you use a block of wood under a tooth to tighten the nut? I use the slam wrench method onto a piece of 2x4 for both on and off.

[Lee Schierer]

Did you use a block of wood under a tooth to tighten the nut? I use the slam wrench method onto a piece of 2x4 for both on and off.

This type of tightening really shouldn't be necessary. First of all the rotation to tighten the nut is away from the teeth which can tend to pop a braise. I use a wrench on the nut, but simply hold the blade body between my fingers to hold it while I snug the nut. The saw rotation will tighten it a bit more as the saw starts up. I do use a block of soft wood against the blade when it is time to remove a blade to get the nut loose. I've never had a saw blade loosen on its own in my entire woodworking life (50+ years).

[Tom M King]

You must not have understood what I was talking about. I never put a block of wood against the blade. Just like taking a nut off of a grinding wheel, I place a short piece of 2x4 on the saw top, and slam the wrench (not really that hard) down onto the 2x4. The inertia that the blade has makes the arbor continue to turn while the nut comes to a fast stop. Once that loosens the nut, it's spun off by hand. I do the opposite for tightening, but not nearly as hard as the "slam" to loosen. No torque is ever put on the blade in the slightest.

[Erik Loza]

Put a dial indicator on the blade and check the runout at arbor, then at the blade perimeter. That doesn't sound right at all.

Erik

[Steve Wilde]

Nope, the sawstop uses two wrenches, on on the arbor and another on the nut so you don't need to do the wood block method...

[roger wiegand]

I've got that blade, and get a very acceptable finish from it. I had to cut a lot of 1/4" thick 2-1/2" wide cherry strips and was able to take all the saw marks off with one light pass through the drum sander with 80 grit.

There's something wrong with yours, I'd contact Forrest.

[Jim Becker]

I own that blade. You're correct that it doesn't leave a smooth edge like the 40-t blade does, but it's not designed for that. Rather, the 20-t rip blade is indicated for working thick materials. And that's the only time I use it. But the scoring you're noting sounds like a bad tooth...

[Wes Ramsey]

Could the fence be out that much, causing wood-to-blade contact at the back of the blade? Sounds more like a bad blade, but might check fence alignment, too.

[John Goodin]

I think that glue line rip is one of the best bets in saw blades. Cuts just as good as those that cost twice the price.