A jack plane

[Kees Heiden]

After much procrastination I finally got round to make a beech jack plane. I am still a long way from the perfectness of th eplanes of Steve Voigt, or David Weaver and especially a whole long way of from th ekind of things they make at old street tools, but here is my first home made real plane. A jack, because that is a nice place to start learning. The mouth is now about 4 mm wide, so I am glad I didn't start with a smoother! 16" long, 2 1/8" iron.

http://i290.photobucket.com/albums/ll266/Kees2351/Beuken%20schaaf/foto%201_zpsrbtigqbu.jpg (http://s290.photobucket.com/user/Kees2351/media/Beuken%20schaaf/foto%201_zpsrbtigqbu.jpg.html)

http://i290.photobucket.com/albums/ll266/Kees2351/Beuken%20schaaf/foto%202_zpsqbxp0sqz.jpg (http://s290.photobucket.com/user/Kees2351/media/Beuken%20schaaf/foto%202_zpsqbxp0sqz.jpg.html)

http://i290.photobucket.com/albums/ll266/Kees2351/Beuken%20schaaf/foto%203_zpsfu3eynhg.jpg (http://s290.photobucket.com/user/Kees2351/media/Beuken%20schaaf/foto%203_zpsfu3eynhg.jpg.html)

http://i290.photobucket.com/albums/ll266/Kees2351/Beuken%20schaaf/foto%204_zpsukxqkhek.jpg (http://s290.photobucket.com/user/Kees2351/media/Beuken%20schaaf/foto%204_zpsukxqkhek.jpg.html)

[Lasse Hilbrandt]

It looks very good.
What did you do to make the sole dead flat ?

[Kees Heiden]

First I planed it. That got it very close to flat. Perfectly flat enough for a jack plane. But because this is a practice plane I also got a piece of glas shelving and a roll of 120 grit sandpaper to get it more then flat enough.

[Jim Koepke]

Looks good. Did you take any pictures of the work as it progressed?

jtk

[mark kosse]

Looks great, good job!

[Kees Heiden]

Yes there are some pictures on my blog. You'll find it when you search for: Seekelot.

[Dave Anderson NH]

It looks really fine Kees. The most important thing however is how well it performs.

[Kees Heiden]

Oh yes, it works! Nice thick shavings.

http://i290.photobucket.com/albums/ll266/Kees2351/Beuken%20schaaf/foto%205%201_zps6yaep3uk.jpg (http://s290.photobucket.com/user/Kees2351/media/Beuken%20schaaf/foto%205%201_zps6yaep3uk.jpg.html)

[Steve Voigt]

Kees,
Looks great! Congratulations. Welcome to the dark side--we have cookies (sorry JimK.)

[Lasse Hilbrandt]

One of my hobbies is spearfishing. Here we use to say that pneumatic propelled Spears are the dark side.
If any Powertools should be the dark side ;-)

[Jim Koepke]

Kees,
Looks great! Congratulations. Welcome to the dark side--we have cookies (sorry JimK.)

Hey, if I had a nice new plane like that coming off my bench I don't know if I would have time to bake a batch of cookies.

I make a mean batch of chocolate, chocolate chip cookies. My triple chocolate mocha brownies have been known to make my coworkers swoon.

jtk

[george wilson]

A very nice first effort,Kees. But,if you look at Steve's new smoother,you will see that there is a fairly long flat spot between where the wedge goes in and the "eyes" start. This is to make the wood not chip so easily. Your plane is very weak right on that corner,and will likely chip hunks of wood off.

Very nice handle,and I like the unusual treatment you have given to the terminations of the bevels. Is that Dutch?

[Stewie Simpson]

Very nice Kees. I noticed you have offset the centre line position of the tote handle. As far as I am aware that was a common feature within early Dutch plane design. Have you been able to validate any real benefits from having an offset rear tote.

Stewie;

[Kees Heiden]

Thanks guys. And thanks a lot for the tip about the eyes George. Where would we be without you? I did indeed copy the termination of the chamfers from some old Dutch moulding planes. To be honest, I don't know yet if I like it more then the English style, but being dutch it is kind of neat to add such a personal detail to an otherwise English plane.

Stewie, I have several Dutch planes with offset handles. The habit was continued for a very long time in our country. Actually I like it, but can't put it in any kind of objective light. Somehow it feels as if your hand is in a more natural position. But I get along fine with my Stanleys too, so any difference isn't very obvious. But it sure is a typical 18th/early 19th century detail of English planes, so I liked to use it too.

[Stewie Simpson]

Kees. Of interest, I have seen drawings of early 1800s wooden jack planes showing the top surface of plane sloped at around 5* in a cross grain direction towards the user . The rear open tote sloped at the same angle. After watching my father over the years working with bench planes I think I have a reasonable understanding as to why that type of design feature would have been effective. (Difficult to explain in short text form.)

He was traditionally trained as a Carpenter & Joiner in Scotland during the early 1950s; primarily using traditional techniques as well as tooling. During his employment tenure he was never permitted by his boss to use any type of steel bodied planes.

Stewie;

[Kees Heiden]

Do you mean like this old jack plane, or did it tilt more to the left?

http://i290.photobucket.com/albums/ll266/Kees2351/Gerf/Roffel_zps4jdal818.jpg?1455456289260&1455456290033&1455456294520&1455456301897

[Stewie Simpson]

Kees. A flat soled jack plane. I wouldn't be classifying what's within your photo as a type of jack plane.

[Jeff Bartley]

Nice Kees! I love that you gave it a Dutch flavor!

[Kees Heiden]

Thanks Jeff. It's fun to mix things a little bit.

Stewie, that plane on my picture is a gutter plane. Some people think these were also used like a scrub plane. And why not, a cambered edge AND a cambered sole. But I don't think anyone knows for sure.

But I wasn't displaying this picture because of the sole, but because of the upper deck of the plane. When you look closely you can see that it slopes down to the front and to the back. Where the iron sticks up is the highest point of the block of wood. You can find a similar shape on the plates of Roubo. Because of this slope in the top surface of the plane, the handle is leaning a little backwards. You could say that it gives room for the wrist, and the whole lower arm, to get lower.

[Mark Almeidus]

Beautifull plane Kees. TBH I cant see any diference between yours and David's, Steve's or the old street's ;).

[Kees Heiden]

That's because I take the pictures from the best angle...

[Stewie Simpson]

Kees. As I mentioned; the jack planes I described were sloped around 5* in a cross grain direction, favoured towards the users side. Visualise the shape of a square, where the top line (representing the top surface of the plane) is not at 90*, but 85*.

http://www.k6-geometric-shapes.com/images/192xNxquadrilateral-square.jpg.pagespeed.ic.WZJCeOIoQT.jpg

[Kees Heiden]

Interesting idea. I'm afraid it would look a bit odd. But maybe only because we are not used to it.

[Stewie Simpson]

Kees. Not as odd as using unseasoned pallet wood.

[Kees Heiden]

Ha ha. It certainly wasn't unseasoned. I have had it in my shed for a couple of years allready.

But now I am really at a loss for a suitable piece for a try plane. The piece of beech I had has started to self destruct. Splits and checks all over the place.

[Stewie Simpson]

Kees. I had a quick look at your website that shows some details on the construction of your plane.

This photo took my interest. It looks like you have aligned the drill bit to the bed angle of the mouth opening.

http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-i7ZJUsJLbbo/Vq54rGMpV6I/AAAAAAAACPw/_w7a-R25MBM/s320/foto%2B3.JPG (http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-i7ZJUsJLbbo/Vq54rGMpV6I/AAAAAAAACPw/_w7a-R25MBM/s1600/foto%2B3.JPG)

I always align the drill bit to the wear angle. (A much easier angle to enter the mouth opening.)

http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-as58IBq8rkU/T-TIdG7VNrI/AAAAAAAANI8/Nnfbk5Cs5mw/s1600/Plane+d.jpg (http://www.google.com.au/url?sa=i&rct=j&q=&esrc=s&source=images&cd=&cad=rja&uact=8&ved=0ahUKEwjar6b34PnKAhXCn5QKHdRzBqMQjRwIBw&url=http%3A%2F%2Fthecarpentryway.blogspot.com%2F20 12%2F06%2Fchip-off-old-block-iii.html&psig=AFQjCNE6m2h8LA5nOXke4A-bqmflfRmygA&ust=1455625227563015)

In all seriousness you should take some great pride in what you have been able to achieve with your 1st traditionally mortised out bench plane. ( a bit messy with the final presentation of the mouth opening, but you will know better next time round. )

cheers Stewie;

[george wilson]

I cannot see where Kees's plane has a messy mouth opening. Where does it say he used pallet wood?

If so,I'd like to find such beech wood pallets around here!!:)

[Stewie Simpson]

I cannot see where Kees's plane has a messy mouth opening. Where does it say he used pallet wood?

If so,I'd like to find such beech wood pallets around here!!:)

Hi George. Attached is the link to Kees website. http://seekelot.blogspot.com.au/

[Kees Heiden]

The mouth certainly isn't the best part of the plane, the wear is also a little rough to my taste. (pictures on my blog, google for seekelot) Never mind, the next one will be better. When drilling I aim right in between the angle of the bed and the wear. That seems safest to me, because those drillbits like to wander a bit.

It sure is pallet wood. It comes from a guy who was selling a large bunch of beech which he got from a machine factory. They used the beech for crating and bracing and stuff like that. That guy was a little dumb though, he stored it all outside, without cover! About half of it was rotting away. I had to dig deep to find some nice pieces. Most of it is 75x75 mm though, so after planing that is not enough for a try plane. Plenty for smoothers and jack planes.

I was looking in my shed today and it seems I still have two options for a tryplane. One is planed, straight and true and is now exactly 75x75. That is just a tad shy of what I would like in height. The other is better in size but it has a tiny endcheck in one end. I think I can live with that, but it needs to dry a little longer, just to be sure.

Oh well, first I finish the second jack plane. Then I try a smoother and will try very hard to get a nice mouth.

[george wilson]

OK,I read his blog. I'd just advise Kees to take a good hard piece of tropical wood(Ebony,Coco Bolo,etc.),and inlet a piece of it into the sole in front of the mouth,to make the mouth smaller or neater. A common practice where plane mouths have gotten too wide. I'm sure you already know this.

A nice strike knob would also be a nice touch. I like to make mine square,and inlay them at a 45 degree angle,making a diamond shape. My large jointer has this feature,and has been posted here. I think I made my strike knob out of ebony,but would have to go look. Many are boxwood.

Keeps you from beating up the plane when adjusting the iron to take a lighter cut. Make it out of real hard wood,and it will not suffer much damage being struck with a wooden mallet.

I see you did use pallet wood. But there's nothing wrong with that since beech is hard to find,and very high priced when you do. It's only high priced because it is hardly ever cut for anything but wooden pallets these days,and some Scandinavian furniture. Got to get it where you can! Good as any if it is dry. Any pallets I see around here are only about 1" thick. Once I found some curly maple in a pallet. It was curly as all get out. I rescued some pieces,but they were too small for anything but some kind of small jewelry boxes. Too good to just let it rot,though. I gave it to a friend.

Years ago I took a long drive answering an ad that advertised German maple. But,when I got there,I found 2 young guys selling wood from the crates that Mercedes Benz cars come shipped in. Nice crates,but they seemed made of alder,not maple.

[Kees Heiden]

I think the pallet wood quote came from the ukworkshop forum. Never mind.

Beech is not very rare overhere, not even expensive, but 10 cm thick, quarter sawn and well seasoned isn't available on every corner of the street. Add to that my stinginess, and I find it very hard not to use a piece of wood I allready have.

[george wilson]

I am not a stingy person. But,I will hang on to particularly,ultimately fine wood until I die. I just can't bring myself to cut it up! Now,I've been thinking about selling some of it as I am getting pretty old and worn out.

[Steve Voigt]

When drilling I aim right in between the angle of the bed and the wear. That seems safest to me, because those drillbits like to wander a bit.


Kees, I have to agree with Stewie. You'll get better results (on a drill press) if you drill at the wear angle or very close to it. Use a brad point bit and you shouldn't get any wander at all. Reducing the angle (making it closer to perpendicular) will reduce the wandering.

For more steeply angled holes, this is what I use:

331773

Peter Galbert calls this a "bismarck" grind, and has some good info on his blog. He starts with a twist drill; I start with a brad point and just grind the wings off. Takes about 3 minutes, and I can drill straight holes at 45° no problem.

[Kees Heiden]

That's two votes to drill close to the wear line. Thanks Stewie and Steve, I give it a try on the next one. Nice tip about that drill bit too.

[Stewie Simpson]

Kees. As an additional choice to what Steve mentioned I use a tapered drill bit very similar to these.

http://www.irwin.com/uploads/products/medium/wood-countersinks-sets-1724.jpg (http://www.google.com.au/url?sa=i&rct=j&q=&esrc=s&source=images&cd=&cad=rja&uact=8&ved=0ahUKEwiGrs3CjPzKAhULEpQKHeeSCRsQjRwIBw&url=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.irwin.com%2Ftools%2Fbrowse%2F drill-bits%2Fwood-countersinks&psig=AFQjCNGfGagk28CdWFD8dacp8H8dnKp4Ig&ust=1455705401271425)

[Kees Heiden]

That's some nice drill bits. I'll see if these are available overhere.

[george wilson]

Just look for drills for drilling holes for screws. I've ground them myself out of normal drill bits. But,you have to be pretty good at grinding. Always keep the cutting edges higher that the metal that is behind them.