Need help building a dust collector

[Joe O'Connor]

I have a wood master 3 horse blower that I bought used a while back that I tried to rig up with parts I had from my old d.c. The results have been very poor, so poor that I often don't use it with the table saw and only hook it up to my planer.

My first thought is to add a cyclone with a collection barrel and exhaust out side. My dilemma is about which cyclone to get and how to put it all together. I don't want to spend a ton of money but I need a solution that works.

The blower I have has 6 inch in and out. Currently I only need three machines connected, ts planer and jointer.

Thanks all, Joe.

[Gerry Grzadzinski]

A Super Dust Deputy is fairly inexpensive, $170.

[Mike Heidrick]

Joe, tell us more about what you designed and how it is failing you. What impeller size, ductwork used and sizes, and types of fittings and lengths of runs and if you are using flex hose. Tell us about how you are capturing the dust and the filter if any used. A 3hp blower should be very strong I would think. If you add more components as is it may not improve anything if the runs are not properly done.

Sandor has a great book out there on dust collection called Woodshop Dust Control by Sandor Nagyszalanczy.

Bill Pentz site is very informative too.

[Marty Tippin]

Since you already have the blower, you might look at getting an "East Caroga" cyclone - http://cycloneseparator.com/ - I've heard good things about them but haven't used one myself.

[Joe O'Connor]

The system I have set up now was not so much designed as it was cobbled together with parts I had. My old collector used a cloth filter bag from rockler, the "dust right" bag designed to be used with their portable dust collector. I assume my 3 horse blower is exceeding the capacity of that filter. I also am using 4 inch flex to connect to machinery, the longest run being about twelve feet. I only connect one machine at a time but in the new system would like to have everything hard piped with blast gates.

The installation of an after market cyclone looks pretty straight forward, but I worry about capacity. What I mean is if a cyclone is designed for use with a 1-3 horse blower could it potentially choke some of the power out of a larger sized unit?

I am also unclear if the size of the collection barrel matters?

[Marty Tippin]

The installation of an after market cyclone looks pretty straight forward, but I worry about capacity. What I mean is if a cyclone is designed for use with a 1-3 horse blower could it potentially choke some of the power out of a larger sized unit?

If you're a hobbyist, you don't need anything more than a 3HP blower - in fact, even one that size is bigger than most small shops really need.


I am also unclear if the size of the collection barrel matters?

The barrel doesn't do anything but collect sawdust. So size it based on how much you can lift and/or how often you want to dump it.

[Mike Heidrick]

I never asked the size of the collection barrel lol. I asked how you are capturing the dust meaning at the machines. Its moot anyway, you answered your own question when you said dust right and cobbled system. Just start over and do it right.

[David Kumm]

Do you have a picture of the impeller. Diameter and depth of blades would be good info to have. Just because the motor is 3 hp may not mean the blower is sized to match. Are also sure it is running in the correct direction? Dave

[David G. Jones]

Check out Bill Pentz's Web site. He has diy cyclone plans and a wealth of information about system design. www.billpentz.com.

[Ben Rivel]

OP: is this what you have the blower from: LINK (https://www.woodmastertools.com/NS/accessdetail.cfm?PID=85)?

[Jim Andrew]

Link doesn't give a lot of info on the blower. I would go with 6" pipe and not reduce down. If the blower turns opposite of whatever cyclone you go with, you could always mount the blower so it blows into the cyclone. My outside dump really performs well, so you just need the cyclone to catch the majority of the dust. The secret to optimal cyclone performance is to have all the joints seal well, including the lid on the barrel.

[Wade Lippman]

Nothing collects real well with a TS, so don't call it bad just because of that. How does it do with the planer?

[Dan Friedrichs]

Keep in mind that just because the motor says it's rated for 3HP, doesn't mean you're actually using that much power if your system is not designed to use it.

A 3HP motor on a blower hooked to a long run of flexible 4" duct probably performs exactly the same as a 1/2HP motor on the same system. Moving air is what takes power, and if you're using flexible duct (which adds lots of resistance), small diameter duct (adds resistance), undersized filter bags (adds resistance), then you probably aren't moving much air.

Start by running 6" duct all the way to each machine. Don't worry about the cyclone, for now.

[William C Rogers]

Since you already have the blower, you might look at getting an "East Caroga" cyclone - http://cycloneseparator.com/ - I've heard good things about them but haven't used one myself.

That is the cyclone I used when I converted my Jet 1900 4 bagger. Here I a link to my build. http://www.sawmillcreek.org/showthread.php?234757-My-least-expensive-dust-collection-system-And-my-shop&highlight=
I call it the eBay cyclone. It has a 6" inlet and 7" outlet you will need to match with your blower. I am still very happy with this setup. I have a 55 plastic drum under mine on a cart. ( one of the HF moving dollys would also work ) I usually let it get between 1/2 and 3/4 full. I am still able to lift it into my gator. I had a 30 gal trash can with my old set up, but that required much more frequent emptying. Being able to vent outside is a huge plus.

[James Gunning]

Joe,

Here are photos of the DC I built from parts. Blower is a Penn State, metal Super Dust Deputy, Wynn filter. 30 gallon metal garbage can with an MDF lid for collection.

http://www.sawmillcreek.org/showthread.php?230817-Yet-another-dust-collection-post!-Portable-SDD-build

I second Dans remark about running 6" ducting all the way to the machine. Also, if at all possible, make the ports on the machines 6" (or multiple smaller ports to achieve a larger volume) I did this with my system and that was the largest contributor to increased air flow.

[Chris Padilla]

Start by running 6" duct all the way to each machine. Don't worry about the cyclone, for now.

This right here. Run 6" as far as you can and as straight as you can. If your tools have <6" ports, consider adjusting them to accomodate the 6" port. If that isn't feasible, take the 6" as close as possible to the smaller port before tapering down. Notice I said TAPERING down. Don't just step it down...if possible. :)