Summer project

[Erin Raasch]

Well, I've been toiling away all summer, trying to turn some rough-sawn walnut into something purty enough to live in the house. Last winter when I was developing my 2005 project list, I decided that one of my projects would be a bookcase - lots of nice flat, wide boards - so as to provide plenty of opportunity to work on my hand-planing skills. Work it was, especially in the summer heat, but with the exception of the bandsaw-cut curves, this is a true Neanderthal project.

There are, of course, the few obligatory "oops"es to keep me humble, but if I don't point 'em out, you probably won't notice them, so we can all just pretend they're not there. :D

The finish is a French polish done with blonde shellac; I'm still working on finishing the bottom trim, since it was applied unfinished after the rest of the case was finished and assembled.

Erin

[Chris Barton]

Hi Erin,


What a great loking project! I really like the way the back matches the verticle pieces and the gentle curves! Did you use any stain or dye on the walnut or is it just strain shellac on walnut. In either case this is a piece to be proud of and one that has heirloom quality built in!

[Bob Noles]

Erin,

That thing is beautiful. You did a great job on the grain matching and I really like your choice of color and design throughout. Did you do this from a plan or is it a self design? What are are the approximate diminsions?

GREAT JOB!

[Alan Turner]

Great looking project, Erin. I like how the back boards are apparently from the same flitch. That, or it was a ton of hand resawing, as was done in the 18th Cen. (by apprentices, of course). How is the back attached? You are cross grain there, so expect some movement (in this case shrinkage, I would suspect, since it was built in the summer).

As to the base molding being unfinshed, one option is to prefinish it, and then attach, leaving only touch-ups. I am assuming it is glued in the front, and on the sides right at the miters, but nailed in the back, so you might have a hole or two to fill.

[Erin Raasch]

Great looking project, Erin. I like how the back boards are apparently from the same flitch. That, or it was a ton of hand resawing, as was done in the 18th Cen. (by apprentices, of course). How is the back attached? You are cross grain there, so expect some movement (in this case shrinkage, I would suspect, since it was built in the summer).

As to the base molding being unfinshed, one option is to prefinish it, and then attach, leaving only touch-ups. I am assuming it is glued in the front, and on the sides right at the miters, but nailed in the back, so you might have a hole or two to fill.

Thanks, Alan.

The back is walnut ply, so I'm afraid I can't take any credit for the grain matching. It is very striking grain, though, so that takes a little bit of the sting out of the price I paid for it. Because it is ply, I don't expect to see any movement with the back itself, but I am a little uncertain about the rest of the case shrinking once it's brought inside, and whether that will cause the back to bow. I attached it with screws at the top and bottom and a couple of brads along the sides.

The reason I waited to finish the base molding is because my skills at fitting mitres are not that great, so I wanted to have a chance to do any final fitting of the corners once it was attached. The molding is decorative only, and is glued to the sides and screwed from the inside, and glued to a support strip attached to the bottom of the bottom shelf and also attached with a couple of finishing nails to the sides at the front.

I did end up doing a small amount of sanding in a couple of spots in order to get the corners to match nicely, but now that I think about it, your suggestion would have worked well. I'll have to store it away for next time. :o

Erin

[Erin Raasch]

Hi Erin,


What a great loking project! I really like the way the back matches the verticle pieces and the gentle curves! Did you use any stain or dye on the walnut or is it just strain shellac on walnut. In either case this is a piece to be proud of and one that has heirloom quality built in!

Chris,

Thanks for the kind comments. I first applied a coat of BLO to bring out the grain, then just blond shellac with no stain or dye. I'm pretty much a minimalist in regards to finishing, and I really like the natural color of the walnut. I'm afraid the flash from the camera didn't do a real great job capturing the true color, and I had to do a little color correction in my photo editing program to try to get it closer to actual color.

Erin

[Dan Forman]

Very nice piece Erin, work to be proud of. Congrats on taking the high road with all of the planing and whatnot.

Dan

[Erin Raasch]

Erin,

That thing is beautiful. You did a great job on the grain matching and I really like your choice of color and design throughout. Did you do this from a plan or is it a self design? What are are the approximate diminsions?

GREAT JOB!

Bob, thanks so much. I got a little help with the grain matching from the walnut ply I used for the back. ;)

This is from a plan in a book of 101 Woodworking Projects (I'm not sure that's the exact title, but it's close). It's about 36" wide and I think about 42" high. I'm drawing a complete blank as far as the depth of the shelves, but it's a pretty standard measurement for bookshelves.

Erin

[Mike Wenzloff]

Pretty nice, Erin!

Mike

[Alan Turner]

The back is walnut ply, so I'm afraid I can't take any credit for the grain matching. It is very striking grain, though, so that takes a little bit of the sting out of the price I paid for it. Because it is ply, I don't expect to see any movement with the back itself, but I am a little uncertain about the rest of the case shrinking once it's brought inside, and whether that will cause the back to bow. I attached it with screws at the top and bottom and a couple of brads along the sides.

The reason I waited to finish the base molding is because my skills at fitting mitres are not that great, so I wanted to have a chance to do any final fitting of the corners once it was attached. Erin

Erin,
Becuase you are running the plywood with the long grain on both the top and the sides, you should have no problem with the back bowing. Neither will move measurably.
As to the base molding miters, one trick is to cut the miters, and then to relieve the inside of the cross grain cuts with a paring chisel to about 1/8" shy of the front profile. In other words, final tweaking only happens on the front 1/8" of the miter. The back is scooped out. Just pencil a line by hand around the front profile, and take out about 1/16" from the rest and this means that the blind part of the miter will not hold the joint from closing. A bit of a cheat, but pretty common on hand cut miters, and esp. useful where the corners they are wrapping around are not a perfect 90 degrees.
When installing, you can safely glue the first 2-3" of the miter, and that will hold the corner tight, letting all of the movement occur only at the rear, which is square anyway, and usually against a wall.

As to the finishing schedule, if this bookcase collects martini glasses, or hot coffee cups, you can use a wiping varnish on the top only without changing the appearance, and gain some durability. I oft do this on a side table, where the whole finish is dewaxed shellac, except that the top has 2-3 coats of Waterlox Original.

Again, wonderful piece.

[Steve Clardy]

Looks very nice!!!

[Dan Moening]

provide plenty of opportunity to work on my hand-planing skills

I have found that as I use more and more handtools that my overall approach to woodworking has slowed. That is to say the I tend to take the time to do things properly first time.

I'm much more cognizent of grain and its becoming second nature now.

And I'm enjoying the entire process; it is enlightening.

Nice work on your bookcase...hidden oops and all. ;)

[Don Baer]

Erin,

That is one fine piece of woodwork and I am sure no one cares that you used a band saw for the scroll work. Great design, fit and finish.