orbital sanders????????

[Mike Mortenson]

Wanna here your opinions on Pneumatic or Electric? and Hook and loop or the other kind you stick on?

Thanks

[Dick Parr]

Have tried a number of them all sizes and the best all around ROS that did not cost an arm and a leg is the Porter Cable 333. H&L is the only way to go.

Me .02

[Jim Becker]

Most pneumatic sanders require far more air than most of the compressor systems in our shops can deliver unless you are a pro shop and have a big'un. Most do not have provisions for dust collection, either. So I'd have to recommend electric unless you can accomodate the air. No question, hook and loop is the way to go...it wastes less material and is faster to deal with.

As to the sander itself, please tell us what you want to use it for. There are many great choices out there from the less expensive PC333 and similar units up through the high-end and high performance Festool, Fein and Metabo offerings. (I've converted to Festool...best dust collection in the business and near-zero vibration. Both are very important to me)

[Phil Phelps]

(I've converted to Festool...best dust collection in the business and near-zero vibration. Both are very important to me)[/QUOTE]
Don't me jivin' me son. If it is as good as that, I'll buy one tomorrow. I gotta call Jenkins on this :p

[Jim Becker]

Phil...I was able to throw out my gel-filled gloves when I got rid of the PC sanders and no question, would not hesitate to sand anything anywhere in my home with either of the two Festool sanders I own when connected to the CT-22. Try it, you'll like it!! :) (stealing an old advertisting phrase...) The way they designed the extraction system in the pad really does work. Now, that doesn't mean you shouldn't wear personal protection, especially when working with materials you are sensitive to, but the difference is easily noticable. The only time I visibly see any dust when sanding now is if I'm doing an edge and the sander has minimal contact with the workpiece. No way around that...

[Russ Massery]

Jim, I've been looking into festool sanders which do have? and how do you use them? (i.e perliminarily, then finish).Some say you can go all the down 320 with a 150/5.

[Phil Phelps]

[QUOTE=Jim Becker]Phil...I was able to throw out my gel-filled gloves when I got rid of the PC sanders and no question, would not hesitate to sand [i]anything anywhere in my home[[/QUOTE

....it's the vibration, Jim. My PC sander and dust collector is great. I sand dry wall in my house, it's that good. But while sanding cabinet doors for three hours at a time, I want something that doesn't make my hand go dead. I will check into it, for sure.

[JayStPeter]

I'll second Jim. My PC333VS is like a torture device relative to the Festool I use now (ETS150/5). DC is even better than the PC connected to a shop vac (which is admittedly pretty decent).
The only other thing I'd consider to replace it is some of the Pneumatics. A friend has some Dynabrade sanders that do have excellent DC and are very smooth. Unfortunately, my wimpy 60 gal. single stage compressor isn't up to the task. They are kind of loud though, so I'm just as happy to stick to Festool.

Jay

[john whittaker]

Mike, I haven't tried the high end models like Jim mentioned so can't give an opinion on them. But I have used PC, DeWalt & Makita ROS's. Even though MOST of my hand tools are DeWalt, I liked the Makita ROS better than the other two. The two major reasons: Less vibration & a little less noise. That being said, when my next ROS purchase rolls around, I'll check out the Festool line because the older I get, the more dust is affecting my "senses". Jim & many others have sung the praises of the Festool dust collection & very low vibration. Worth checking out.

[Dennis Peacock]

(I've converted to Festool...best dust collection in the business and near-zero vibration. Both are very important to me)
Don't me jivin' me son. If it is as good as that, I'll buy one tomorrow. I gotta call Jenkins on this :p[/QUOTE]

Phil,

You better call Bob Marino and order you one of each sander.!!! They're just THAT GOOD!!!!!! Never looking back on my Festool sander purchases.!!!!! :D

Oh yea, PC 333 is a good sander....but I've worn out 3 of those in less than 5 years....and had to use anti-vibration gloves....now with the Festool sanders? No more gloves and dust collection is Excellent!!!

[john whittaker]

Playing golf or even guitar after several hours on the ROS is impossible for me. What I want to know is.....assuming I even know how to play either....will Festool help my golf game?
How's that Bob Marino...another sales angle. Us golfers will buy ANYTHING that promises to improve our games.:D

[Jim Becker]

[QUOTE=Jim Becker]....it's the vibration, Jim. My PC sander and dust collector is great. I sand dry wall in my house, it's that good. But while sanding cabinet doors for three hours at a time, I want something that doesn't make my hand go dead.

This was exactly the issue I was facing, Phil, with long sanding sessions. As the projects got bigger, so did the sanding job, and I really hated the numbness I was experiencing after less than a half-hour. (I have enough issues with my hands not to exacerbate things through too much vibration) Try to get some time on one of the Festool units. I did that with Bob Marino, but he's relatively close to me.


Jim, I've been looking into Festool sanders which do have? and how do you use them? (i.e preliminarily, then finish).Some say you can go all the down 320 with a 150/5.

Ray, I do most of my sanding with the 150/3 but also have the Rotex 150 which I use for any "heavy" sanding work and polishing. If you can only buy one, the 150/5 or the 150/3 are nice units. And yes, you can take them up pretty high on the grits if you need to. However, for sanding wood, that's really not necessary. I generally sand to 180 or maybe 220 and only go higher if I'm doing a strictly oil & wax finish.

[Phil Phelps]

Dennis, and bring me one when you come to Steve's. :D The vibration is the worst part of sanding. I've heard they are more expensive, but once again, " you get what you pay for", right? You bringin' that overgrown football geek to Steve's this year?

[JayStPeter]

Playing golf or even guitar after several hours on the ROS is impossible for me. What I want to know is.....assuming I even know how to play either....will Festool help my golf game?
How's that Bob Marino...another sales angle. Us golfers will buy ANYTHING that promises to improve our games.:D

I can vouch for no more numbness and little problems with my repetitive stress wrists (which the old PC used to agrivate the heck out of.
However, I can NOT vouch for an improvement in my golf game after switching to a Festool sander. :p

Jay

[Phil Phelps]

Playing golf or even guitar after several hours on the ROS is impossible for me. What I want to know is.....assuming I even know how to play either....will Festool help my golf game?
How's that Bob Marino...another sales angle. Us golfers will buy ANYTHING that promises to improve our games.:D
...golf is hell, I love it. Do you have the Golf channel? If not get it, find a PGA pro and stay with him,(her), practice, and take two asprin and post me in the morning :cool: The guitar is just about the same technique. Find a good instructor, practice, and get some old Venture's records and play along. Great stuff. :)

[Mike Mortenson]

The biggest trouble we are having is the hook and loop pads seem to wear out fairly fast

[Jim Becker]

The biggest trouble we are having is the hook and loop pads seem to wear out fairly fast

Tools with good dust extraction tend to have the abrasives last longer. I really have noticed that with the sander's I'm using now...I'm not throwing away disks nearly as quickly as I used to. That center hole in the Festool design alleviates the worst area of build-up since that's where a lot of dust will collect normally, even with good airflow through the ring of holes typical on ROS.

[Mike Mortenson]

Sorry i wasnt talking about the sanding disc. i meant the hook and loop pad on the sander

[Jim Becker]

Sorry i wasnt talking about the sanding disc. i meant the hook and loop pad on the sander

That's caused by heat generated by friction. If you tend to "bear down" a lot on the sander, you'll accelerate the degradation process, which in effect is melting/deforming the "hooks" on the pad. Nature of the beast...but they are easily replaceable on most units. I did that a few times with the PC333s I used to own. Let the sander to the work...you only need a little pressure from your hand and more will generate both more heat and slow down the sanding pad.

[Mike Mortenson]

Thanks for the info guys. I would love to have a festool sander but i think its crazy to spend that kind of money for one. If they were only twice as high sure.

[Dan Oliphant]

[QUOTE=Phil Phelps


Ray, I do most of my sanding with the 150/3 but also have the Rotex 150 which I use for any "heavy" sanding work and polishing. If you can only buy one, the 150/5 or the 150/3 are nice units. And yes, you can take them up pretty high on the grits if you need to. However, for sanding wood, that's really not necessary. I generally sand to 180 or maybe 220 and only go higher if I'm doing a strictly oil & wax finish.

Jim,
After looking at festools web site for the ETS 150/3 EQ-plus and the ETS 150/3 EQ-C, I see zero difference in the units. What is your input on these two units? Like you, my arm starts to go to sleep fairly quick using a PC333 unit.
I have stayed away from any consideration of festool products until now, but I must say this discussion may have changed my mind.

[Dan Forman]

Along the same lines, can someone explain the difference between the 150/3 and 150/5, in terms of practicality or use (not just what the 3 or 5 means?). Thanks

Dan

[Bob Marino]

[QUOTE=Jim Becker]

Jim,
After looking at festools web site for the ETS 150/3 EQ-plus and the ETS 150/3 EQ-C, I see zero difference in the units. What is your input on these two units? Like you, my arm starts to go to sleep fairly quick using a PC333 unit.
I have stayed away from any consideration of festool products until now, but I must say this discussion may have changed my mind.

Dan and Dan,

The ETS 150/ and 150/5 are identical sanders, except for the size of the orbit (in mm's). BTW, the "150" is the size of the pad in mm's - 150 mm = 6". The 150/5 has a 5 mm orbit, while the 150/3 a 3 mm orbit. The larger the orbit the more aggressive the stock removal. The 150/5 is a more "general purpose" type sander, while the 150/3 is more of a finish sander. Practically speaking, while you can use the 150/3 with 24 grit paper, that wouldn't play to it's best applications. If you want a sander best suited for grits of 120/150 and up, the 150/3 is the preferred sander, if you want a sander with a wider range of applications, the 150/5 is a better bet.
Bob

[Dan Forman]

Thanks Bob. I'll be getting back to you sooner or later for the 125/3 as a companion for the Rotex.

The other Dan

[Greg Mann]

Playing golf or even guitar after several hours on the ROS is impossible for me. What I want to know is.....assuming I even know how to play either....will Festool help my golf game?
How's that Bob Marino...another sales angle. Us golfers will buy ANYTHING that promises to improve our games.:D



The Festool sanders are designed specifically for golfers. They even have nine hols in the disks!!!!