Soft maple for butcher block?

[Erik Holmes]

Hello all. I am about the buy the lumber for an edge-grain butcherblock island countertop I'll be building. I'm planning on using walnut, cherry and either hard maple or soft maple, about 30 bf total. I can't get the lumber pre-surfaced in the size I want (5/4 or 6/4) in my area (Charlotte, NC) so I'm going to buy rough-cut and use a friend's planer (just a small home unit) to surface it. After reading horror stories online about the difficulty of planing hard maple without tear-out, I am thinking about making life easier and using soft maple. However, elsewhere I read that hard maple is better for butcher blocks because of the hardness.

My question is, do you think soft maple is hard enough for a butcher block countertop? I don't expect we'll be cutting directly on the countertop much, if at all. Also, it looks like the janka rating on soft maple (950) is about the same as for walnut and cherry, so I don't see why it would be a problem. Then again, maybe the troubles I've read about machine-planing hard maple are overstated and I'll be just fine.

Which would you use? Thanks in advance!

[Jebediah Eckert]

Soft maple is still pretty hard. It ends up (scraps) into end grain boards a bunch at my house.

As as far as hard maple goes I don't have a problem with tear out? Birdseye or curly sure, but not regular hard maple boards. But even if you get tear out it will be hidden in your glued up strips. Also you know just running them through a planer isn't going to be much help, they need to be jointed also. Unless he has a two sided planer but it doesn't sound like it.

[Bill Orbine]

You probably won't like the cool color of soft maple as opposed to the warmer color of hard maple.

As for hardness concerns, I'd get the hard maple and deal with it! If you are hearing horror stories about hard maple tearing up, then it's very like the same folks who tell this story will tell the same with story soft maple. Likely the equipment is not properly maintained.

I running hard maple for paint grade kitchen right now and I've got a happy G-rated story to tell because my stuff is in good order!

[Erik Holmes]

Thanks. I assume you mean a jointer to make the first side flat before it goes through the planer. Is that absolutely necessary? I don't have access to a jointer. If I choose the rough boards carefully to find flat ones without any cupping, will that rough but flat surface be flat enough for me to run through the planer and give me a flat opposite side?

I read online that you can flatten boards without a jointer by gluing rails to the edges and running it through the planer, so I can do that if necessary. I just didn't know if it is always necessary to flatten one side before planing or if that only needs to be done if there's cupping or twisting.

[Erik Holmes]

I always thought soft maple has more of a pinkish color. Is that not true?

[Martin Wasner]

I always thought soft maple has more of a pinkish color. Is that not true?

Pink, white, brown, black, yellow. It's got a lot of color variation.

Soft maple is softer than maple, but not hugely so.

[Jebediah Eckert]

It would be tough for me to find flat enough boards to skip the jointer where I shop. I have never tried used a sled or rails to avoid a jointer. It is pretty important, especially for what you are doing to have flat stock. Those surfaces are what you are going to need to be flat for both your glue ups. Planers tend to "mimic" the other side , so if it has a twist or bend it will likely plane it with a twist or bend. I know YouTube has a bunch of videos for what you can do to plane rough lumber without a jointer, but I have never tried it.

[Erik Holmes]

I appreciate it. I think I'll try the rail method. Looks pretty simple.

What do you think about hard versus soft maple for color? Would hard look better in a butcherblock with walnut and cherry?

[Jebediah Eckert]

I think either will look fine, it will be the end grain that shows anyhow. I'm not sure I have noticed the end grain, once soaked with mineral oil, looks all that different between the two Maples. I would go hard maple if that's what you wanted, don't let the tear out change your mind. I don't have an issue with tear out on hard maple, not sure if others do. I actually think it planes real nice compared to some others. Even if you did get tear out your not going to see it on the end grain cuts, but I don't think it will be an issue. Most of the boards I have made were from scraps anyhow, I think it all looks nice together.

[Erik Holmes]

Thanks for the advice!