Miller Dowels

[Bernie Weishapl]

Does anyone use the Miller Dowel system? It looks like a pretty good system.

Bernie

[Mike Wenzloff]

Hi Bernie,

I used them on several outdoor QSWO planters I made a few years ago. Worked well. They're still holding together. Like blind doweling, it's not a very forgiving joinery method in that the holes need to be very accurately drilled. Also, on the first planter I think I used too much glue as the dowels wanted to creep back out. Most likely due to hydraulic pressure.

On a not so related subject, I use the stepped drills for the Miller system to drill out new handles for tanged chisels. The steps correspond to the taper on the tangs really well.

Mike

[Norman Hitt]

Does anyone use the Miller Dowel system? It looks like a pretty good system.

BernieI have used them, and like them, but be sure to put the glue only where the directions say,, and only the amount they say to use. If you clamp things up dry and drill the holes first before glueing and reassembly, make sure that the FIRST TWO dowels you drive are at the farthest corners/ends of the piece you are assembling, or the piece/faceframe, etc CAN SHIFT somewhat, and the last one's pilot holes will not be lined up. DAMHIKT :( Done properly, they really pull the pieces together very tight, and clamps can be removed immediately, (if even used for the glueup.)

[Joe Unni]

Bernie,

I built a set of 4 parsons-type, test tables a while ago for a commercial customer. I had to duplicate existing tables so they had so meet certain requirements. One of them being that there could be no metal fasteners - quite a challenge based on the table design.

That said I settled on Miller. Before beginning I called their support line and asked if I needed to be aware of anything during the process. The two biggest suggestions they gave were don't use too much glue and make sure the hole is free of sawdust and chips. Also they said not to drive the dowel like you're framing a house. You'll actually hear and feel when the dowel is seated.

My process was:

glue the mating surfaces
clamps the parts together
drill the holes using a corded drill
clear the holes - I used a basketball fill needle on my air gun at the end of my compressor. Putting the needle IN the hole. Worked great! The guys at Miller hadn't even thought of that.
glue dowels - sparingly and only on the ribbed portion of the dowel. Too much and you'll blow the joint out.
drive dowels home.
That's it. And 500+ dowels later the tables were complete. Though I've not used the system since, I would not hesitate to do so again. Very fast and simple system.

And, no I don't work for them.

I hope this is helpful.

Good luck,
-joe

[Dick Strauss]

Folks,
A friend recently showed me a neat trick for dowels. If you have blind joints, you can cut a small v-notch or small kerf in the dowel along its length. This notch/kerf allows the excess glue to flow out the channel you cut rather than having the dowel pop back out!

Dick