Piercing tools .... recommendations please.

[Tim Boger]

I'd like to learn about piercing and also ask for tool recommendations. Any info from those that are experienced in this technique would be greatly appreciated.

Initially I intend to work on making Hollow and Pierced Spheres.

Thanks for

[Thom Sturgill]

I'm not there yet myself, but at a symposium the demonstrator recommended buying the cheap NSK dental handpieces available on ebay. I think you would have to jury-rig the hose connection as the dental picks want to deliver water too. Also not sure what to buy for burrs, so I will be looking at this thread. I bought a micro-motor for carving and have a heavier Dremel but the MM does not have the power and the Dremel is too heavy to use for long sessions.

If I remember correctly, maximum speeds for the Dremel is 25K rpm while the MM is 50K rpm and dental handpieces are about 350K rpm.

BTW, the demo was on turning and piercing spheres.

[Peter Blair]

I have done lots of hollow spheres pierced and unpierced. I use the high speed dental tools. I bought the name brand first and then tried a couple of the ones from Amazon and Ebay. Only speaking for my self the Brand name is a wonderful tool but I've found that the difference at least for me is not that great. The Brand name has ceramic bearings and does not need oil I would recommend this no matter what you buy but I have two other that I oil occasionally and have used them for many hours with no issues. I usually put a little light oil in the air hose each time I have used them and then run them for a while on some practice pieces to ensue the oil doesn't get onto my finished piece. I were to start over, not knowing how involved I was to become I would find a knock off type on the net that has the cutter at about a 45degree angle to the handle, includes a led (love the light) and has ceramic bearings. They usually come with 4 male connections. I would also order a 4 tube hose connector as it makes it easy to attach the hose even though I only use 2. I can't remember which connections I used but if anyone is interested I could take a few photos to show my set up.
Somewhere there is a great document on using the generic name brands but the author does way more work to the units than I do.
Finally, the pencil design of the brand name IS much easier to use for long periods of time but for small spheres I don't see the extra money as worth while.
OOps forgot to mention bits. While learning I would recommend that you limit the number of bits. I bought a lot of different types when I started and use only one or two types now. I found them buy the 100 on ebay for about .75 cents each BUT now I get used ones from my dentist for free. He and his staff really like some of the small pierced work I do so I trade them with special pieces that are nice but that probably wouldn't sell for much.

[Mark Greenbaum]

I have an NSK rotary air tool, which I purchased for background removal doing hand engraving. The bit I use I usually get from my dentist (too worn out to use on patients, and gives them to me for free), and they're 1.6 mm diameter shanks. I think they'd sell for $3 each if you have to purchase them. The handpiece will go up to 320K rpm, and was about $400. When it's running it's so quiet you can accidental cut yourself. It requires compressed clean air, and uses a lot when it's fired up.

[Shawn Pachlhofer]

there was a demonstrator at SWAT 2015 that spoke about building your own, just like Thom mentioned above.

If I can find the handouts, I'll scan and post them for you.

[Scott Hackler]

When I started piercing, I used my Dremel and muscled through it. I started researching other tools and saw that Binh Pho uses (and sells) the NSK Presto. As an admirer of his work I started searching for the best deal on one of those handpieces/regulators. I found a used unit on eBay and bout it. There are 2 different NSK units. One that uses water, one doesn't. Cost me about $325 total. Then after I burnt up the first turbine by applying too much air to it and guessing blowing out the sealed oil.....I had to order a new turbine at $185! oops.

For me and the piercing I do, there is no substitute for the NSK. If mine breaks, I will order another. The 350,000 rpm speed allows for "drawing" in the piercing rather than "hope it goes where I want" and it's small size allows for very delicate work. I use a 169L carbide tapered bit for my work and you can buy them in bulk for about $1.50 per. The diamond bits are useless in wood.. They clog almost instantly.

You will need a good air source. My 80 gallon 240v compressor will kick on every 10-15 minutes, while I am piercing. It uses a lot of air. Think of a air nozzle on at 30% continuously. You also need to make sure you have a good regulator with a PSI gauge to keep the pressure under 40psi. I have mine set at about 36-37psi.

The normal dental handpieces are a close substitute, but I didn't like them because the head wasn't strait out of the end of the tool, it is kind of long and akward and I prefer the size and feel of the NSK Presto. It is the size of a highlighter and doesnt weight much more. Plus, just like a pen (since you hold it like that) the bit protrudes out the end. ie drawing in the wood.

Finally, In order to effectively use the NSK, you need wall thickness of 1/16-1/8". I have done 1/4" but did not enjoy it very much, but maybe I was just impatient and used to it going quicker. Anything thinner is too fragile, thicker and you will need 3-6 passes with the bit to actually pierce through the wood.

Hope this helps

[Shawn Pachlhofer]

I would love to upload the file, but there is a limit of 156.3 kilobytes for a PDF.

even saving each page as a single PDF and reducing (compressing) the file size, I can't get the file sizes small enough.

[Dick Strauss]

Shawn,
I sent you a PM about hosting the file on our club website...

[Mark Greenbaum]

Shawn,
I sent you a PM about hosting the file on our club website...

Please send the file to me also. Thanks.

[Shawn Pachlhofer]

I believe Dick is going to host it on his site and post a link here.

[Dick Strauss]

I will do exactly that if I can...I think I'd better have permission from the owner of the material before posting to make sure I don't step on any toes.

I received a copy of the material and I have left a message with the owner of the material. I will let folks know when I have the go-ahead to post.

[Glen Blanchard]

I find the contra-angled head configuration of a traditional dental handpiece to be more comfortable than the straight style that the NSK Presto employs. But I suppose that's because I used them on teeth for the last 30 years. Scott is correct - the 169L bur is the bur of choice.

[Shawn Pachlhofer]

I will do exactly that if I can...I think I'd better have permission from the owner of the material before posting to make sure I don't step on any toes.

I received a copy of the material and I have left a message with the owner of the material. I will let folks know when I have the go-ahead to post.

FYI, the handout was shared on the SWAT website, and with all 4000+ people that attended SWAT. I would hope he wouldn't have an issue at this point, as long as he is properly credited...which he is.

The SWAT handbook has no limitations on sharing either.

[Tim Boger]

Thanks Scott, terrific info ... I sure appreciate your feedback.

Tim


When I started piercing, I used my Dremel and muscled through it. I started researching other tools and saw that Binh Pho uses (and sells) the NSK Presto. As an admirer of his work I started searching for the best deal on one of those handpieces/regulators. I found a used unit on eBay and bout it. There are 2 different NSK units. One that uses water, one doesn't. Cost me about $325 total. Then after I burnt up the first turbine by applying too much air to it and guessing blowing out the sealed oil.....I had to order a new turbine at $185! oops.

For me and the piercing I do, there is no substitute for the NSK. If mine breaks, I will order another. The 350,000 rpm speed allows for "drawing" in the piercing rather than "hope it goes where I want" and it's small size allows for very delicate work. I use a 169L carbide tapered bit for my work and you can buy them in bulk for about $1.50 per. The diamond bits are useless in wood.. They clog almost instantly.

You will need a good air source. My 80 gallon 240v compressor will kick on every 10-15 minutes, while I am piercing. It uses a lot of air. Think of a air nozzle on at 30% continuously. You also need to make sure you have a good regulator with a PSI gauge to keep the pressure under 40psi. I have mine set at about 36-37psi.

The normal dental handpieces are a close substitute, but I didn't like them because the head wasn't strait out of the end of the tool, it is kind of long and akward and I prefer the size and feel of the NSK Presto. It is the size of a highlighter and doesnt weight much more. Plus, just like a pen (since you hold it like that) the bit protrudes out the end. ie drawing in the wood.

Finally, In order to effectively use the NSK, you need wall thickness of 1/16-1/8". I have done 1/4" but did not enjoy it very much, but maybe I was just impatient and used to it going quicker. Anything thinner is too fragile, thicker and you will need 3-6 passes with the bit to actually pierce through the wood.

Hope this helps

[Dick Strauss]

Shawn,
The owner of your handout has asked me not to put any links on SMC. I'm sorry I couldn't do more but I'm going to respect his wishes.

Take care,
Dick

[Eric Holmquist]

I've used both the cheap contra angle handpieces and the NSK presto, and for the forms I use, I prefer the Presto.

Some folks have spoke of problems plumbing the contra angle hand pieces. The interface is an ISO standard. You can buy a hose assembly on ebay for $15 that screws onto the back, just get the hole count right.

NSK Presto
Pros
You hold the Presto like a pen, so existing muscle memory still works.
If both sides of the piercing are visible, you need the bur square with the piece to get consistent ribs on both sides. The strait Presto style gives a better visual reference.

Cons
Moderately expensive

Cheap Contra Angle
Pros
Cheap!
If you are piercing a hollow form, the internal ribs do not need the same constancy as on an open form

Cons
Tool geometry not easy to work with on concave surfaces, handle can get in the way
Holding the tool requires developing new muscle memory unless you already use this tool type for other reasons.

[Tim Boger]

Thanks for the insights Eric, very helpful.

Tim

[Marvin Hasenak]

Check out the systems that Arizona Gourd sells, without compressor $304,with a compressor $6i5. After those the prices are you limits.

[Peter Blair]

Glynn Cox did a demo which is on Utube courtesy of the Denton Wood Turners, it's the best I've see if you are interested in trying a cheaper handpiece to see if it is for you, If in fact you do try and like it all the set-up, save the hand piece and the hose connector, can be used if you want to spend the big bucks for an NSK.
Here's a link to the video. Incidentally in the notes under the video can be found a link to the PDF Handout he refers to. Well worth the look.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=5P8Zh_pI-tU