Scroll saw

[Paul Fisicaro]

Hey guys, I looking for a scroll saw and Ive done a lot of research in the last few days but Im getting conflicting reviews so Im not sure which one to buy.

Ill be using the saw mostly for cutting out totes for hand planes in 1 inch stock.

Do you guys have a favorite or can you recommend a reliable saw? I don't want to spend a ton of money maybe $150 - $200 or so.

Thanks!

[Steve Mellott]

The Dewalt 788 model is a very good scroll saw. Sometimes you can find them used for $250 - $300. I'm not sure what kind of quality you can buy for less than that.

[Dave Lehnert]

1" stock is pushing the upper limit of a scrollsaw.
A bandsaw would be my first choice.

[Larry Frank]

I can cut 1-1/2" on my Hegner Scroll saw with the proper blade but it is a bit more than your price range.

Your best bet is to watch Craigslist.

[glenn bradley]

If you totes will have fretwork (captured openings) then the scroll saw is my tool of choice. I primarily use my DeWalt 788 in 3/4" stock for decorative "piercings" in A&C type furniture. The need for power and the desire to keep it under $1000 is what led me to the DeWalt 788. At the time I was making the decision, there were certainly better saws but, not for the price. I also found that for my purposes, this was the least expensive saw to do the job so I guess it really fit my requirement pretty well. It has been a workhorse. I do nothing to it but use it.

[Bill Sutherland]

Hegner is the one I have and I'm just starting using it but love it so far. Bought it for $300 on CL. I saw one in CA with stand and everything on CL for 250 which is a screaming buy.

[Mike Henderson]

1" stock is pushing the upper limit of a scrollsaw.
A bandsaw would be my first choice.
+1 That's not a good job for a scroll saw. And it would be too slow. Band saw and a rasp would be better. Even a jig saw and rasp in a pinch.

Mike

[Paul Fisicaro]

Hmm, I asked a few people and they told me a scroll saw would be best for the totes but I just need something to cut out the basic shape because Ive been using a coping saw and let me tell you, it sucks! I do all my shaping with rasps and sand paper.
If a band saw is best then what do you all suggest?

[Charles Lent]

Can you post a picture or drawing of what you are making? It would be much easier for us to recommend a saw if we could see a picture.

Charley

[Chris Hachet]

1" stock is pushing the upper limit of a scrollsaw.
A bandsaw would be my first choice.


I really do agree. Look for a decent used 14 inch band saw. I got a good deal on a used Jet in fine working condition, $150 for what is an $800 saw new.

[Charles Lent]

I asked for a picture to verify exactly what you are making. Scroll saws and band saws make great curved cuts, but are relatively terrible at making straight cuts. Curved cut-out holes in pieces are better done with a scroll saw, or cut with a jig saw or drilled and routed if for handle holes, etc. Band saws do curves on the outer perimeter of pieces best. Straight cuts are better made with a table saw or hand held circular saw and a guide. We could provide a better answer if we saw a picture or drawing. You may need several of these tools to do the job the best way.

Charley

[glenn bradley]

Hmm, I asked a few people and they told me a scroll saw would be best for the totes but I just need something to cut out the basic shape because Ive been using a coping saw and let me tell you, it sucks! I do all my shaping with rasps and sand paper.
If a band saw is best then what do you all suggest?

For this sort of thing (again assuming there is no need for the scrollsaw) a small saw should do. The 10" Rikon gets good reviews and has for some time. It often goes on sale for around $250 and is in fact on sale at Woodcraft until Valentin's Day right now. I have a 17" saw that I use for most things but, I have a 1970's 10" Delta that I would be loath to be without. As long as your intentions don't exceed the machine, a small bandsaw should do you well. The small Jet gets a lot of press but, I think it is about $100 too much for what you get. Hopefully some other small saw owners will chime in.

[David L Morse]

Like Glenn I also have a benchtop bandsaw from the 1970s that I often use. I'm sure it's not as nice as his Delta but it works. It's certainly not as nice as any of the saws reviewed in this article from Woodworker's Journal (http://www.woodworkersjournal.com/benchtop-band-saw-reviews/). The reviewer rated a 9" saw from Skil as a "Best Bet", whatever that means. But at $129 (http://www.amazon.com/SKIL-3386-01-2-5-Amp-9-Inch-Band/dp/B009VJ3NNW/ref=sr_1_1?s=power-hand-tools&ie=UTF8&qid=1454679864&sr=1-1&keywords=bandsaw) it's half the price of the Rikon and right in the middle of Paul's budget.

[Larry Frank]

I have the Rikon 10" bandsaw with the Carter blade stabilizer. It is amazing how tight a corner you can cut with it.

The small bandsaw fits nicely between a Hegner Scroll saw and a 16" bandsaw.

[Paul Fisicaro]

Can you post a picture or drawing of what you are making? It would be much easier for us to recommend a saw if we could see a picture.

Charley

Ill be making these...

331110

[Charles Lent]

Band saw, router in router table, profile (soft) sander. A scroll saw is not the best choice. A band saw with 1/4" blade will do much better to cut the profile, then a router with round over bit to round the sides, followed by a soft (air filled) profile sander to smooth the surface.

It would be stronger if you orient the grain top to bottom (about vertical in the picture) instead of side to side.

Charley

[Paul Fisicaro]

It would be stronger if you orient the grain top to bottom (about vertical in the picture) instead of side to side.

Charley

That was the first one I made. An experiment, if you will. I wanted to see if I could actually make one by hand with no power tools (i.e. Band saw, Router) since I don't have any. It was a pain in the you know what but was really happy with how it turned out. I cut the rough shape out with a coping saw. And used my rasps along with sand paper to get the shape. I understand what you mean by orientation of the grain. Ill make sure I do that for my first real one.

Im really just trying to cut the time down a bit with some sort of power tool. Cutting out the shape with a coping saw is the worst part part and not enjoyable at all. I want to eliminate that step.

Thanks!

[Jim Finn]

I love scroll saws. I have three of them and use them most every day. For your project I would use my band saw. Much faster to cut.