The way I mount a power feeder to a table saw

[Bryan Cramer]

I'd thought I would share some pictures of my mounting bracket that I made to mount my power feeder to my table saw. It is made with a 6" channel and a 1/2" thick plate welded to the top. After drilling the bolt pattern for the feeder I welded the bolts in place because reaching the underside would be a challenge. Then I torched a hole for the vertical arm to slide through the top plate to allow the feeder to be lowered all the way to the table. My plate was big enough for two positions so you can see the second position's stud bolts and hole. It is then bolted to the fence rails with spacers. There is surprising little flex and twist to the set up. The rail bolts haven't come lose, I do check them every time I bold it down. I made this bracket because I couldn't drill where I wanted in the top. The feeder stores really nice folded into the position shown in the last picture. This set up also gives me more flexibility to occasionally use it on my router table in the table saw wing.
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[Bryan Cramer]

Here's another picture of the bolt pattern.
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[Rod Sheridan]

Nice work Bryan, it's really nice to have a feeder on a saw.

Here's a shot of mine.

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Regards, Rod

[Martin Wasner]

Nice work around.

I wish I had the space to set a powerfeed up for certain operations, taking it on and off is a giant pain in the rear. I've kicked around having a cart welded up that I could either bolt to the left wing or even just clamp to that wing. It'd be nice to get it out of the way for day to day operations.

Years ago on here there was a give that has it mounted to the ceiling and could swing it out of the way, clever, but I don't think it's practical on a tall sidewall.

[J.R. Rutter]

Good solution for keeping your saw top from getting Swiss cheesed. I tapped holes in the wing of my Sawstop and keep the bolts threaded in from the bottom (ends flush with the top) so I don't lose them. It is a pain to haul out the feeder though. I think I've only used it twice in the few years since I set it up.

[Warren Lake]

in the past I had mine mounted to a moveable slide on cradle bolted to the ceiling rafters (low ceiling ) I dont have photos as i didnt document stuff as much back then but I could rip any material even a 4 x 8 as long as the traction was there on the material there was no restriction as it wasnt bolted on the table top. The nice thing was changing set up was really easy as you could slide what the power feed was bolted to along the cradle that held it then just clamp that and make minor changes if any to the feeder. It was easier to change set ups than the usual turn the handle in and out way. Its not practicale I know with most ceiling heights but it worked really well, so much so I thought if i grouped some machines in order i would have got a long I beam and just run it along the beam from machine to machine as needed.

[Bob Falk]

Bryan,
Excellent idea. I have been trying to figure out how to mount a power feeder to my Sawstop and you have solved the problem. Thanks!

I do have one question...it is not clear to me how you secure the channel to the fence cross rail. I see that you are using spacers. Do you tap a hole in the spacer, drill a hole in the fence tube, and then suck the spacer up against the fence tube with a bolt?

Thanks, bob

[Bryan Cramer]

Bryan,
Excellent idea. I have been trying to figure out how to mount a power feeder to my Sawstop and you have solved the problem. Thanks!

I do have one question...it is not clear to me how you secure the channel to the fence cross rail. I see that you are using spacers. Do you tap a hole in the spacer, drill a hole in the fence tube, and then suck the spacer up against the fence tube with a bolt?

Thanks, bob
I just used log enough bolts and then cut some pipe as a spacer to fit between the rail and the table top. There isn't any tapping involved and the holes aren't in the fence tube, only through the angle iron rail that supports the tube. I drilled the holes between the fence tube and the saw. On my saw this iron was quite thick so there wasn't any problem with flexing. You could replace them with heaver iron if needed. Also they could be replaced if you sell the saw leaving no trace of the feeder mounting holes.

[Bob Falk]

Thanks...I see now. bob