One Way coring cutters

[Ben Pierce]

I've read many posts singing the praises of the OneWay coring system and also condemning the cutters. I'm on board with all of the above! I use the OneWay pretty frequently and I would like a couple of extra cutters. $35 seems like a proprietary robbery for a tiny piece of high speed steel. A decent aftermarket cutter sure would be a great thing.

In the end, it's not a game changer. I've cored perhaps 100 bowls with one cutter. All in all I love the quality and durability of the system. Still...

[Reed Gray]

Well, replacing the cutter is cheaper than replacing the whole blade, which you pretty much have to do with the Woodcut or McNaughton. I did get a cutter from Oneway some time ago that was hardened, but not cut with the point on it. I ground a side taper onto is so it wouldn't rub on the sides of the kerf as I cut, and left the nose square. Works much better, and cuts faster than the standard pointed tip. I commented about that to them, and they think it is too aggressive for most turners to handle. I don't have to take it off to sharpen it, but still prefer the McNaughton.

robo hippy

[David Gilbert]

Reed,

Can you post a photo of your reground cutter?

Oneway now has a carbide cutter. Has anyone tried it?

Thanks,
David

[Ralph Lindberg]

I know Dave (D-way Tool) got tired of paying for their cutters, so he made a batch just for himself. Of course setup cost is the same for one or 100. So he made a batch.
Like I said, these where just for himself, so he has never sold them. But like his other tools they were M42

[Ben Pierce]

Robo Hippy, you are a genius. I didn't know that the geometry of the the cutter was partly to slow it down on purpose. I ground a worn out cutter flat on the end, same angle I use on my scrapers. It cut like crazy. (Two slightly offset passes necessary to make the kerf big enough for the tool rest.)

[Bill Boehme]

Well, replacing the cutter is cheaper than replacing the whole blade, which you pretty much have to do with the Woodcut or McNaughton........

Maybe, but it depends on a lot more than the cost of a replacement blade for the McNaughton ($52.50 standard blade) vs. the cost of a tip for the Oneway ($32.95).

The McNaughton instructions state that the only sharpening that the cutter needs is to make a couple upward strokes with a handheld slipstone to refresh the burr and please don't use a grinding wheel. If that is a fair and accurate description of all that is necessary, the blade should last a very long time. How long in terms of comings would you estimate that a Oneway tip last?

Another factor to take into account is the total cost of the coring rig. The standard size McNaughton with four blades is about $70 less than the comparable Oneway system. I'm still deciding, but I have a little bit of experience with the McNaughton system and It seems easy enough to use. Also, the greater flexibility of diameter vs. depth seems useful.


?... I didn't know that the geometry of the the cutter was partly to slow it down on purpose ......

I think that it would be fairer to describe it as less aggressive rather than slower.

[Reed Gray]

Well, I haven't gotten around to learning how to post pictures here, let alone putting them in my computer in the first place. The cutter I have is 3/8 inch wide at the cutting end, and tapers to about 1/4 at the tail end. Over all length is about 7/8 inch, with about 1/4 inch hanging out over the end of the arm, and that amount of overhand is the length of that spear point on the end. According to Oneway, the idea behind the spear point is that it will break the fibers first, then the sides of the cutter, cut the wood away. I use the McNaughton, and it comes with a triangle type spear point. I grind them down square as well. The Oneway arms are notched at the end, and the cutters have matching notches. This keeps things in line, and if it doesn't have the notches, I can easily see how the cutter would pivot as you cut. I would guess that you might be able to make a HSS cutter of some sort, but you need a screw to mount it, or you would have to silver solder it onto the end of the arm. With the cutter they sent to me, since it hangs out almost 1/4 inch past the end of the arm, I can easily sharpen the bevel, and don't have to take it off the arm and put it in a jig to sharpen it. This also seems to give a burr that cuts way better than if you just sharpen the top. I plan to eventually experiment with using Tantung or stellite, both hard cutting materials that can be silver soldered onto steel stock. I have done that with one of my McNaughton blades and it works great. I will have a video clip up on making the Big Ugly tool maybe by the end of next week. You need torch skills to do the silver soldering, which I don't have, and the Big Ugly is a DIY (do it yourself) tool, and not some thing I would seriously consider making and trying to sell. Great club activity, and just about every club has some one with torch skills.

robo hippy

[Fred Perreault]

C'mon Robo, you are too important a source of great knowledge and experience to let a lack of cyber skills prevent you from attaching a few photos to your popular, informative postings. Snag a local middle schooler in your neighborhood with a promise of wooden items for his mom, sisters, aunts et.al. Then ask him for some help snapping some pics, saving them to a folder, and then attaching them to one or more of your informative posts. It is easy, it is helpful (to us) and terribly rewarding. Go on..... give it a shot ☺️

[Bill Boehme]

I agree with Fred. Maybe you'll just have to make a YouTube video and attach it instead. :D

These instructions that I found buried deep in the FAQs might help: http://www.sawmillcreek.org/faq.php?faq=vb3_reading_posting#faq_vb3_attachment s

[Richard Casey]

You need torch skills to do the silver soldering, which I don't have, and the Big Ugly is a DIY (do it yourself) tool, and not some thing I would seriously consider making and trying to sell. Great club activity, and just about every club has some one with torch skills.

robo hippy
Reed, it is not hard to do Silver Soldering, I use a Bernzomatic MAPP torch, which I think comes from your side of the pond, just have everthing spotlessly clean (read no body oil) and use the Borax paste and dont overheat it. If you want a detailed description PM me.
Rgds,
Richard.

[Dale Bonertz]

Richard, if it not to much trouble I wouldn't mind reading a detailed description. Would you post it in this thread or start a new thread so we can all learn?

[Faust M. Ruggiero]

Ben,
If I am light handed when I sharpen and don't let the cutters get too dull I feel I get 30 sharpening or more out of a cutter. Using the #2 knife I easily get 3 cores to a sharpening and one or two cores using the #3. That comes out to less than half a buck a core. I just bought 2 new cutters for $70 plus dollars so I know how you feel. A Oneway double ended bowl gouge costs the same as three little cutters. The only bargain in woodturning is the free knowledge we exchange here at the Creek.
faust

[Reed Gray]

Richard and Dale, when I get that video clip up, it shows and explains what is being done by a friend who has torch skills. The MAPP torches, I guess can work, but they are pretty minimal, and take a lot longer to do. You need to get it red hot, and for the scrapers, I am using 5/16 bar stock that is 1 inch wide, and use a silver solder ribbon, which generally you have to special order from a welding shop. the coiled solder won't penetrate far enough to get the piece to adhere. I tried JB weld for my McNaughton coring tip and it didn't hold either, but the ribbon did. Maybe more discussion about that when I get that clip up, which hopefully will be Friday or Saturday.

robo hippy

[Ralph Lindberg]

Reed, it is not hard to do Silver Soldering, I use a Bernzomatic MAPP torch, which I think comes from your side of the pond, just have everthing spotlessly clean (read no body oil) and use the Borax paste and dont overheat it. If you want a detailed description PM me.
Rgds,
Richard.

"Old" or "New" MAPP. The company changed the formula for MAPP about 5 years back and the "new" doesn't get near as hot, but is cheaper to produce
I still have several bottles of the old, carefully horded for those times when I need more heat.

[Richard Casey]

Richard, if it not to much trouble I wouldn't mind reading a detailed description. Would you post it in this thread or start a new thread so we can all learn?
Ok Dale, I will do a quick story below. Also which state are you in?


Richard and Dale, when I get that video clip up, it shows and explains what is being done by a friend who has torch skills. The MAPP torches, I guess can work, but they are pretty minimal, and take a lot longer to do. You need to get it red hot, and for the scrapers, I am using 5/16 bar stock that is 1 inch wide, and use a silver solder ribbon, which generally you have to special order from a welding shop. the coiled solder won't penetrate far enough to get the piece to adhere. I tried JB weld for my McNaughton coring tip and it didn't hold either, but the ribbon did. Maybe more discussion about that when I get that clip up, which hopefully will be Friday or Saturday.

robo hippy
Reed, to do Silver Soldering, you MUST not get it red hot. You only need red heat for brazing with Brass as a filler rod.


"Old" or "New" MAPP. The company changed the formula for MAPP about 5 years back and the "new" doesn't get near as hot, but is cheaper to produce
I still have several bottles of the old, carefully horded for those times when I need more heat.
Ralph, we only get the New MAPP gas down under, and it works quite well compared with LPG. I have several different tips for my Bernzomatic torches, so I pick which size i need for each different job.


Here is the way I was taught to do it about 50 years ago and it still works for HSS, Stellite, Tungsten and Tantalum tips.
You need to file or mill a precision notch for the tip to sit in or on.
Find a quality supplier like 'Fusion' or similar and buy 1 stick of 45% Silver Solder and some Silver Brazing Paste, it should be a white gooey liquid made from Borax.
Some Denatured Alcohol or similar and a synthetic pot scrubber. A pair of clean tweezers.
From here on Cleanliness is next to Godliness. This is the key to good strong joints.
File, sand or buff the notch and tip until they are spotlessly clean, no rust, corrosion or other contamination, wash with the Alcohol and don't touch with your dirty fingers.
Using the pot scrubber, polish about 3 inches or more of the Silver Solder rod, wash with the Alcohol and don't touch this clean bit with your dirty fingers.
I twist one end into a uturn so not to mix it up.
Using the clean bit of the rod, dip a small quantity of the paste onto the notch and the tip.
Use it to just coat the mating surfaces, vertical and horizontal as wherever this paste goes, the Silver Solder will follow, so don't overdo it.
Using the tweezers place the tip in place squeezing any excess paste out of the joint.
Carefully cut about 1/8 of an inch of the clean rod, don't contaminate it with your cutters and using your tweezers place it along the join between the tip and tool.
Its best to have your tool firmly supported in a vice or similar and apply the heat to the tool and the tip with most of the heat on the thicker tool, not the tip.
You should see the paste dry out then go back to a liquid and when it gets to the right temperature, that little piece of filler rod you placed on the join should melt and run into the joint. This is the exact temperature you require.
Carefully fan the heat back and forth, Don't Overheat!
Carefully add more clean filler rod without overheating the job and you should see the Silver Solder run everywhere the flux was placed.
Stop heat and let cool naturally and then shape it and sharpen to your preference.
If you don't want to buy a whole tub of paste, see a pro shop and they may sell you a small quantity, as my tub is still half full after 20 odd years of doing it.
Sorry this was a bit long winded, but it is quite simple when you have a go.
Reed, sorry I won't be coming to your part of the country next trip, or I would love to have shown you as I have got so much out of your videos.
Rgds and happy joining.
Richard.

[Dale Bonertz]

Fort Collins, Colorado

Thanks for the tutorial.

[Richard Casey]

Dale, I hope you can follow it OK. Sorry I will only be going as far west as St Louis next trip, so no hands on demo.
Rgds,
Richard.

[Reed Gray]

Richard, I think the difference here is in soldering 1 inch wide pieces. I am not a metal expert, except maybe when it comes to grinding it. The silver solder wire won't go all the way under a wide piece. With the ribbon or tape, you need to get it hot enough to melt, and that requires red. Still have to get the final edit done.

robo hippy

[Richard Casey]

Richard, I think the difference here is in soldering 1 inch wide pieces. I am not a metal expert, except maybe when it comes to grinding it. The silver solder wire won't go all the way under a wide piece. With the ribbon or tape, you need to get it hot enough to melt, and that requires red. Still have to get the final edit done.

robo hippy
Reed, this is where I disagree with you from my practical experience. Silver Solder in stick form will flow by capillary action wherever the flux is and red heat can damage the flux. I do 50/50 metal work/wood work and have made some large HSS tipped scrapers for a mate using 1.25 inch planer blade onto 3/4 inch bar with no problems. Do a Google search on Silver Soldering and there is heaps of info on the required metal temperature and how it flows.
Give it a try and let us know how you get on.
Rgds,
Richard.