Kraft or Butcher Paper

[Dan Schmidt]

My stash of heavy paper (not sure what it was) that I used to protect my bench when doing glue-ups is just about empty. I'd like to mount a roll dispenser / cutter at the end of my bench. Something similar to: http://www.amazon.com/Bulman-A50030-Steel-Rubber-Cutter/dp/B004MDLZKA/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1454158297&sr=8-3&keywords=bulman+serrated

Questions:
1 - what kind of paper do you find works the best for glue-ups: Kraft, Butcher, other?
2 - do you have a similar roll dispenser that you could recommend?
3 - other tips or suggestions?

Normally I'm too impatient to pause and ask about this kind of stuff, but I'm not in a hurry so might as well get your input..... ;)

[phil harold]

I use red rosin paper
just because it is readily available at lumber yards

[George Bokros]

I have no experience with this but I would think butcher paper would be best because it is waxed on one side and nothing would stick to it.

[bruce buren]

rosin paper from big box store. cheap and works well

[Anthony Albano]

Check with your local sign shops. The transfer paper used for cutting vinyl signs is a great product. And Free... It has a shiny surface on one side which glue doesnt adhere to and paper on the other side. I use it daily in all kinds of situations with finishes, epoxy, under my wet stones during sharpening. Recycling it is cool too...

[Brian Tymchak]

rosin paper from big box store. cheap and works well

+1. Readily available at HD.

Edit - the rosin paper I get at HD comes in 36" width. The paper cutter in the Amazon link is 30".

[Larry Frank]

I use the heavy duty brown paper that I get at HD. It is cheap and works well for me.

[Mike Malott]

I bought a 36 inch roll of brown kraft paper and the dispenser/cutter from MSC years ago.

I mounted the dispenser just above a window near my assembly table... convenient yet out of the way.

Mike

[Matt Day]

Rosin paper for sure. Cheap and effective.

Since its temporary and you're not going to peel the glue off you don't need waxed like butcher paper. Unless of course, you do.

[Howard Acheson]

Go to a big box. They sell rolls of rosin paper that contractors use to protect the floors of new houses. The paper allow them to walk on the floors without damaging them. Make your own roll dispenser.

[Tony Bilello]

When I had my shop, I used to use white butcher paper I bought in Sams Club. They used to sell in 2 different widths. I bought the wider ones They served me well in my commercial woodworking shops for 25 years of finishing and gluing. Paper was cheap so I was I was not cheap with it. At one time I even made a paper cutter. Waste of time. Just pull the paper at 90* to the roll at it will tare. Not a clean cut but the glue didnt know the diference. When masking, I would put tape down first then use the paper to protect the rest of the surfaces.

[Jebediah Eckert]

I use red rosin paper
just because it is readily available at lumber yards

This for me as well ^^^^

[Brian Henderson]

+1. Readily available at HD.

Edit - the rosin paper I get at HD comes in 36" width. The paper cutter in the Amazon link is 30".

Lowes has it available in 18" widths.

[peter gagliardi]

If you have an autobody supply house near you, you could get everything you need. You would ask for masking rolls- they come up to at least 3' wide, and they make the bracket or stand to mount it in and tear it off. Reasonably inexpensive, as it is a body shop consumable. I have been using it for about 15 years.
Personally, i cant stand rosin paper for much of anything, as it tears and balls up waaay too easy when things are slid around or abraded on top of it.
The masking paper has the perfect working characteristics for what your asking.

[Brian Henderson]

If you have an autobody supply house near you, you could get everything you need. You would ask for masking rolls- they come up to at least 3' wide, and they make the bracket or stand to mount it in and tear it off. Reasonably inexpensive, as it is a body shop consumable. I have been using it for about 15 years.
Personally, i cant stand rosin paper for much of anything, as it tears and balls up waaay too easy when things are slid around or abraded on top of it.
The masking paper has the perfect working characteristics for what your asking.

It's funny, I went looking for this at local suppliers and while every single one of them said how wide the rolls are, none of them ever said how long. That's bizarre.

[Ben Rivel]

Excellent info here! Been wondering about this stuff myself. Thanks all!

[peter gagliardi]

It's funny, I went looking for this at local suppliers and while every single one of them said how wide the rolls are, none of them ever said how long. That's bizarre.
My 3' wide rolls come 300' long if i remember correctly

[Dave Lehnert]

I also use the big rolls of brown paper from the hardware store.
Something else I found that is good for small project glue ups etc........ 24x24, 70 sheets per roll for $6.00. A little thin but great for something to grab quick
http://www.homedepot.com/p/Pratt-Retail-Specialties-24-in-x-24-in-Packing-Paper-70-Sheets-4004001/202029374

(http://www.homedepot.com/p/Pratt-Retail-Specialties-24-in-x-24-in-Packing-Paper-70-Sheets-4004001/202029374)

[lowell holmes]

I use 4 mil sheet plastic. I don't discard it.

[Dave huber]

I have a roll of each.

the Butcher's is what I tend to use most.
the coating keeps nasty stuff from soaking through onto the bench.

Kraft is great for most messes.

both are great for tracing and patterns. Butcher is more durable.

wife likes the Kraft paper for gift wrapping, too.

Amazon stocks all of it in any width. A lifetime supply is available for very reasonable prices. Holders with integrated cutters are cheap too.

i found a cool vintage cast iron holder for the Kraft paper. It is nicer, but the Uline steel ones are perfectly good.

i have the butcher paper under one end of my main workbench.

Dave

[johnny means]

In the "other tips, suggestions" category, I say, ditch the paper. If your glue-ups are messy enough to require a drop cloth, you just might be working a little bit too sloppily. A wet rag will clean glue off of a waxed, finished, or laminated work bench easily. Dry glue will pop right off with a plastic putty knife.

[Dan Schmidt]

In the "other tips, suggestions" category, I say, ditch the paper. If your glue-ups are messy enough to require a drop cloth, you just might be working a little bit too sloppily. A wet rag will clean glue off of a waxed, finished, or laminated work bench easily. Dry glue will pop right off with a plastic putty knife.

No way - I'll never ditch paper on my bench for certain tasks. If you have a waxed table and only messy stuff to hit it is glue, then I could see how that would work for you.

I find that a waxed or hard finished bench top is too slippery for clamping/holding workpieces. I just have a very light coat of danish oil, and it takes a real beating. Whether it's standard glue, epoxy, finishes, finish remover, etc. my bench sees a lot more than the need for an occasional "pop off" of a droplet of glue. Paper is cheap and time is valuable --- if you haven't used it before I think you'd be surprised how convenient it is.

Thanks all for the comments and suggestions - I ordered a roll of Kraft and a roll of butcher paper to try them each. I'll provide a review in the near future....


Dan