Door knob palcement

[Mark J Bachler]

Anyone know standard measurements for the cut-out for an interior door knob? Dia? height? depth back?

[Ben Rivel]

Check this product out: LINK (http://www.amazon.com/DEWALT-D180004-Bi-Metal-Door-Installation/dp/B000BOPE56/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1454089904&sr=8-1&keywords=dewalt+door+knob)

[Lee Schierer]

Here is a template for Lockset placement (http://www.schlage.com/content/dam/sch-us/documents/pdf/installation-manuals/P515-363.pdf). As you can see there are differences depending on the installation. It would be best if you buy your hardware and consult the installation instructions for the product you purchase.

[Tom M King]

I go middle of the lock rail, if there is one, otherwise 36" off the finished floor. For the lock, the instructions are in the box, as said.

[Rich Engelhardt]

One of these lockset installation kit (http://www.amazon.com/IRWIN-Tools-Carbon-Installation-3111001/dp/B000EEX5UY)'s will take care of all the dimensions except the height up from the floor.
For that, just measure one of the other doors in the house or if it's a replacement door, measure where the strike plate is on the frame and go by that for the lockset.

Any decent lockset will be have an adjustable backset - 2 3/8" or 2 3/4" - again, depending on the other doors in the house or existing if it's a replacement.

[Gregory King]

Height is 36" from finish floor. Backset is 2 3/4". Forget the 2 3/8" backset. It will always scrape your knuckles on the jamb every time you turn the knob. Most locksets require a 7/8" hole for the latch and 2 1/8" for the knob. Drill the knob from both sides once the pilot bit comes thru.

[Tom M King]

The cheap plastic router templates (Milescraft I think) for the lock strike and plunger work real good for making good router templates for those mortises. I made some out of Baltic Birch plywood years ago, reinforcing the working edges with epoxy that have long enough "ears" to be clamped to the door with quick clamps for the plunger mortise. The one I made for the lock strike on the jamb screws into place with the screw holes ending up behind the stop, as do the ones for the jamb hinges. They've hung probably a couple of hundred doors and still work perfectly.

If you cut the largest hole with a holesaw, go in reverse to start with if the door is a veneered door, to eliminate the possibility of tearing out a piece when the holesaw first engages the surface. I like a non-self feeding multi-spur bit for the large hole.

My template for the large hole just locates the center on each side for a sharp pencil point, as it also does for the lock plunger mortise hole.

[Jim Dwight]

36 is standard height from the floor but I would match the other doors in the house. If they are an inch or two higher or lower it would be better to be the same than to be "standard" and look different. I also would not drill the door before getting the lockset. The 2 3/4 backset idea is interesting, I would not do it on an interior door unless the stile was really wide but on some exterior doors it could have the effect of moving your hand further from the jamb. My garage door could use that approach. Most doors it wouldn't matter.

I've drilled a fair number of doors without a jig but it isn't a bad idea. As long as you are careful, you can manage just fine with a 2 1/8 hole saw and another bit the size you lockset requires for the hole in the edge of the door. It could be 7/8, 15/16, or 1 inch. I've seen all these.

My latest lockset purchases have all been kwiksets where you can set one key to all the locks. This house had about 8 keys for all the doors and we changed out the locksets because they were old and to get them to one key. Several doors required re-drilling (which is a lot harder than drilling a blank door). So if it's exterior, you might want to think about the re-keying feature. Otherwise I would get what you think looks good (or what your wife thinks looks good).

[Leo Graywacz]

Height is 36" from finish floor. Backset is 2 3/4". Forget the 2 3/8" backset. It will always scrape your knuckles on the jamb every time you turn the knob. Most locksets require a 7/8" hole for the latch and 2 1/8" for the knob. Drill the knob from both sides once the pilot bit comes thru.

This ^^^^^^^^

[Tom M King]

Here's the kit I used to make my own templates. It was worth the cost to save time getting them perfect on my own. I kept the plastic ones in case I did damage to one of my plywood templates. http://www.amazon.com/Milescraft-1213-Complete-Door-Mortising/dp/B001JEOIFY/ref=pd_sim_469_7?ie=UTF8&dpID=41kai25P3mL&dpSrc=sims&preST=_AC_UL160_SR160%2C160_&refRID=16EN3YHMYEQCGRG0VC7N

There is a company that sells good templates, but they are $$.
http://www.templaco.com/html/categories.asp?category=Latch+and+Strike

When I built new houses, hanging doors was a one day job. Since I just built one house a year (with hammer and saw, not with a telephone), I could never justify this: http://www.templaco.com/html/product.asp?id=194&mode=Bore+Master+Kits