Through Mortise Design and Proper Method?

[Patrick Irish]

Ok, I've settled on my leg/base design. I'm using a 3"x12" as one leg and a pair of 1"x3" as the other legs. My dad wants me to pocket hole them BUT I want try mortise and tenon. Also thought that I wouldnt glue the legs in so the top can be be removed. Top is near 2" thick walnut slab, guessing 50+ lbs.

My plan is trace the legs on the table them use a router to go about 1/2" deep. Then either cut the tenon on the router table or table saw. Using the router table I'd be able to keep them rouded and not have to square the mortise or tenon right? I'm not sure how easy either way is, figured there would be test fitting back and forth.

I also was thinking of a through mortise for the small support apron the pic shows. The legs are oak and apron and length wise shelf I plan on using 3.5"x3/4" walnut. I thought it would look sweet having the a through mortise in the pair of legs and a through mortise in the apron like the pic.

How easy would doing with this a plunger router be? I'm picturing lots of measuring and taking my time. The shelf piece into the big 3x12 would be a mortise/tenon as well. I can easily pocket screw it all but I find that the easy way out.

Also, do you think not gluing the top on to the legs will be alright?

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http://i.imgur.com/34bGDaGl.png

[Patrick Irish]

I have access to a domino xl with tenon kit for $900. Be sweet and make this a breeze to put together. Just debating on spending that much or save for a sawstop.

[Frederick Skelly]

Patrick,
I can't answer your question but if you don't get a response here, you might ask the moderators to move the post to general woodworking where a LOT more people will see it.

Good luck on your project!
Fred

[Nicholas Lawrence]

It looks like you have some decent material there, so if it were me I would be reluctant to do pocket screws. If you are not confident in your ability to execute the mortises and tenons you want, the best thing to do is to try the technique you think will work on some scrap or use cheaper lumber to do a mockup. That way you spot some of the problems ahead of time and don't make as many mistakes on the stock for your finished product.

[Jerry Miner]

I like your thinking. A M&T would be much more elegant than pocket screws, and a good skill-building exercise, too!

With the 3.5" stretcher/shelf, remember that most of the contact area in the joint would be end grain-to-long grain. A double tenon would double the long grain-to-long grain surface area. Wedging the tenons could help get everything tight.

A through mortise in the 3" thick leg will be challenging. You will probably have to cut from both sides. I would probably build a jig similar to this, with identical face parts, to get the mortise "windows" in line with each other.

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I'd be hesitant to leave the top unglued, but it could work. I would expect the slab top to stay flatter when restricted by the other parts, but you could certainly try it and see how it goes. Good luck and have fun.

[Chris Padilla]

There's a long, informative Domino thread going on right now here in the GWW/PT Forum (where I've moved your thread). There is a lot to read but it would be worth your while in determining if you should plunk down for it.

[Patrick Irish]

I don't plan on going with a through mortise on the 3x12, only on the 3/4" apron support and the 1x3 legs. I'm pretty certain after looking at jigs I can use my plunge router with a guide bushing. First I'll make the tenons, then trace on the table tops and router out with clamped fences to guide. GOnna take my time but pretty sure I can do it.

[David Eisenhauer]

The M&T will be way better than pocket screws. Definitely practice on scrap to make sure you have the technique down before committing to the "good" wood. It would be better to have two smaller through tenons running through the short end leg stretcher instead of the one long tenon. The key to M&T is a snug fit between the faces of the M&T parts. You can glue in a shim to the tenon if you cut it a little too loose. I don't know why, but I think I would mortise out the bottom of the top for the ges a little deeper than 1/2" to say at east 3/4". The tenons on the top of the legs can be chamfered slightly to assist in stabbing the top down to the base.