Useful, Out-of-the-Ordinary Shop Items.

[Russell Neyman]

What unusual tools and supplies do you use on an everyday basis that might surprise the rest of us, and why? Here are a few in min

Steak Knife -- This is extremely useful to complete the process of parting off a piece, avoiding that annoying nub that sometimes remains with an ordinary parting tool. I cut until I have a quarter inch (or less) remaining, then finish with the knife.
Dixie Cups -- Obviously, they're good for mixing glue, but I also use them to help sub-organize nails, screws, and other small parts.
Q-Tips -- These are perfect for applying CA glue finishes on small objects.

[Terry Vaughan]

Another promising thread!

I use bits of the textured non-slip plastic stuff that is sold for gripping and opening jars in the kitchen (and also as router mat). Indispensable for getting things off a screw chuck.

[Don Orr]

I rest an old towel on my lathe bed to put tools on so they don't roll off. Easy to move around as needed or wipe your hands, etc.

[Olaf Vogel]

Cheap nylon pot spoon, for scooping shavings out of a hollow form.
I usually keep the lathe running. get the right angle and it sprays out nicely.
Use a cheap one, so if it catches, it breaks.

[Kyle Iwamoto]

+1 on the towel on the lathe ways. Although not an "unusual" tool. I also fasten one on my cage, (we ALL turn with the cage don't we?) with clothes pins. I allow it to droop in the back. This does a few things. Keeps the water from wet wood from making that nice racing stripe on your wall, (or truck, that's what's behind my lathe), keeps the chips from flying all over the place, and keeps CA off your wall or truck. Now if I could figure a way to keep CA off my faceshield....

I tried a thin piece of clear plastic on the front of the cage, to prevent the CA from hitting me, but that gets super dirty real fast.

[Mark Greenbaum]

Cheap Magnetic parts dish from HF rests onto of the Lathe gearbox to hold jacobs keys, index pins, etc.

Old Mouse pad sponge to put between jam chuck (wood) and inside of Bowls and platters to keep from scratching finished surfaces.

Old mill file to periodically clean off the top of the tool rest.

The towel idea is fine, just hold them down with old magnets from wherever you can find them.

Perhaps Saran Wrap over the face shield when applying glue, or even stains and finish. I will have to test that.

[James Combs]

Actually have all the ones previously mentioned except the spoon and don't use the towel as posted but will be looking into doing that. Something I have that may be unusual is several roll type window shades. One I have mounted on the side of my cabinet makers bench and when I am doing a glue-up on the bench I un-roll it over the table to keep glue from dripping on the table. When done I give it a little yank and it rolls itself back-up to its storage position. Another one is hung between my lathe cell and my miter saw. When running the lathe it is down keeping debris off of my miter saw. If I cut something long on the miter saw it goes up out of the way and by coincidence the board being cut(if not more then 1.5" thick) will slip under my lathe bed if it is longer then the miter saw cutoff point to the edge of the lathe bed.

[Tony De Masi]

A penny, while using the Wolverine Jig to sharpen.

Not my idea here. I remember seeing it several years ago. You put your gouge into the jig, then use a block of wood to measure the correct off set right? 1 3/4" or 2". Then after a bit of use you are continually looking for a "clean" section of the block of wood to put the tip of the gouge on. If you go into a previous "hole" the you are going a bit more that the offset you want thus removing more steel than necessary.

The solution, or "a" solution, drill a 3/4" hole with a forstner bit but not very deep. Just the depth of a penny. Then epoxy or CA glue the penny into the hole. All done and you never have to look for a "clean" place to put the tip of your gouge.

[John Grace]

I use magnetic knife 'bars' in my shop for quick easy access to certain tools. I also lose cheap plastic hose reels for my shop extension cords.

[Tom Wilson66]

One of those grabber things where you squeeze one end and it closes fingers on the other end. Just the thing when something is just out of reach. Also, a back scratcher with the bent end will scoop out small parts from under the work bench.

[robert baccus]

A chinese bamboo back scratcher for empting out shavings.

[Bob Bergstrom]

1" earth magnet and keeper on a broom stick can pick up a gouge that has fallen between the lathe and the wall. A barrel fan above my head to blow dust down and away from my face.

[Tim Tibbetts]

An old leather belt to loosen up "overtightened" blanks from the screw chuck.

Scraps of felt pad underlayment material for jam chucks.

+1 on magnets and magnetic trays

Got to try the windowshade idea!

[Marvin Hasenak]

12 gauge shotgun bore mops and 50 caliber gun cleaning patches, I add handles to the mops, I can dip them in my oil finish and finish the inside of anything pretty quick. The cleaning patches are what I use to apply finish to the outside of my projects.

[Brice Rogers]

I have a good supply of Starbucks stirrers that I use for stirring up epoxy (and also use it when "troweling" sawdust that I've wetted with CA.). I usually mix the epoxy on a square of HDPE from a milk bottle.

Not my own idea, but one I read about in the finishing section of SMC. I've started using the cosmetic sponges (dollar store) and wedges (Rite-Aid) for applying wipe-on Poly. They apply only a very sparing amount of poly which tends to reduce runs.

Semi-worn out 320 grit sand paper - - I use it with a felt-tip marker to remove the wire-edge on my bowl gouge after sharpening (yeah, I know....I need to get a round stone).

I took apart a couple of car radio speakers that had developed a "buzz". I saved the big magnet and snapped it onto my lathe. It holds the chuck key, an allen wrench, etc.

A six to 10 inch diameter ring of stiff steel wire (shaped like an almost closed "C"). I have one with a 1" gap and another with 1/2 inch gap. I use it to figure out the wall thickness of a hollow form. Because the ring is steel, I snap it to the car speaker magnet stuck to my lathe.

[Russell Neyman]

...and a couple of others I spotted later:
• Oven Cleaner -- incredibly effective for removing pitch from saw blades
• Old Sweatshirts & Socks-- I cut the shirt sleeves into segments and slide my bowls into the openings for protection during transportation; socks are for small objects; sweatpants work for very large items.

[Ken Barney]

Old/used fabric covered mouse pads are great sandpaper backers for hand-sanding - the foam material is tacky and keeps the sandpaper from slipping. Old business cards make great glue spreaders when gluing up segmented rings or when attaching waste blocks.

[George Morris]

I use a white 4 foot window shade as a backdrop for taking pictures of my turnings. roll it up out of the way when done. also use clear shower curtains on wood dowels in front of all tools to keep shavings out . G

[Bill White]

Bamboo chop sticks. You'll find all sorts of applications.
Bill

[Prashun Patel]

Roller blade (I know, I'm dating myself) wheels for a bowl steady.

Washers to shim a face plate for optimal orientation.

[Dewayne Reding]

This may sound silly but small tin cans such as tuna fish and 8 oz tomato sauce. I often use them when I am assembling or disassembling things in the woodshop, garage or household repairs. A magnetic tray works well too and I have some of them of course. I always seem to have a half dozen containers of small hardware I need to keep safe for a week (or a month lol). Small refinishing and cleaning projects are what the cans are most useful for. A bit of finish, solvent, oil, etc. Toss it in the trash when done. I prefer the short tin cans as they don't tip over too easily.

[Bob Vavricka]

Scraps of vinyl siding cut into squares and kept on hand for mixing epoxy. Throw it away or pop the epoxy off after it dries.

[Sid Matheny]

A pack of pop cycle sticks for mixing. Bicycle inter tube. cut to fit inside of jaws so not to scuff up finished surfaces.

[Joe Bradshaw]

I save my large OTC pill bottles and cut them into strips to use inside my chuck jaws to keep from marring my pieces.
Joe

[Stan Calow]

Yogurt containers for mixing glue, paint, stain, etc. Old wiper blades for spreading grain filler.

[John Beaver]

Clothes pins for clamping small objects.

[Paul Saffold]

Shower curtains, 2 of them hanging to keep chips from flying too far into the garage.

[John K Jordan]

SOFT SANDING BLOCKS

This is one of my favorites for sanding things larger than small spindles. It's simply sandpaper stretched tight around a flexible eraser. The original Magic Rub erasers work well as do the cheaper ones from the Dollar Store.

I can control the paper far better than just holding it with my fingers for both the outside and inside of a form or bowl (if it's large enough), plates, platters, etc. With this I can get more pressure spread evenly over a larger area than I can ever get holding it in my fingers, even when folded several times. The eraser is flexible enough to conform to broad curves. I know you can buy flexible pads with sanding surface attached but they cost too much for my frugal side.


I also use these on carvings and chip carvings, small flat work, metals, etc. As a bonus there is always something handy to erase pencil marks.


BTW, I don't do this to keep my fingers from getting hot - if sanding when the lathe is turning it is turning at a very slow speed. If fingers get hot there is too much pressure and/or too much speed.

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JKJ

[John K Jordan]

- Aluminum tape made for HVAC. I put a short strip of this on the lathe bed when mixing small amounts of epoxy rather than use some container.

- A small gimlet, attached to a magnet. A gimlet is the original cordless drill. (sold at Woodcraft and elsewhere) I use this to drill a small hole into the end of spindle blanks, not only for centering but to prevent some types of woods from splitting from the point when tightening the tailstock.

- A rectangle of indoor/outdoor carpet stuck to the flat top of the lathe headstock. Good for resting the left arm when supporting delicate spindles. Good backing for a piece of sandpaper when finishing the cut off end of a spindle turning. Helps keep little tools and stuff from sliding off when turning.

- A length of soft iron bailing wire wrapped around the end of a carpenter's pencil. This lets me stick the pencil to a a magnet so it is always in the same place.

- This tray I have been using for a decade or more to keep tools from rolling off the bed. Can be moved to left or right of the tailstock as needed. Carpet applied with double-sided tape. Block fits in gap in bed to keep from tilting. So useful I take it with me when doing a demo.

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JKJ

[robert baccus]

Tongue depressors from Hobby Lobby--i sand them square for spreading glues.

[Ron Rutter]

...and a couple of others I spotted later:
• Oven Cleaner -- incredibly effective for removing pitch from saw blades
• Old Sweatshirts & Socks-- I cut the shirt sleeves into segments and slide my bowls into the openings for protection during transportation; socks are for small objects; sweatpants work for very large items.

Russ. I use powdered dishwasher soap for cleaning saw blades. Soak in hot water with a sprinkle of soap for 20 minutes, scrub with a soft brush & rinse. Not anywhere near as corrosive as oven cleaner.

[Tony Rozendaal]

Bamboo shish-kebob skewers. I use them to put epoxy on the inside of pen blanks. Also to dab just the right mount of loctite on the inside of pen tubes before pressing the parts together. When painting pen tubes, I clamp one in the vise and slide the tubes on it and tab away with the fingernail polish, then leave them there to dry.

[Ted Calver]

Large rubber bands. Useful for keeping small bundles of things together, and clamping small irregular shapes. They make these small clamps much easier to use one handed.
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[John K Jordan]

Reminded of this one when I reached for it today:
Disposable surgical scalpels. I keep both the straight edged with sharp points (#11?) and those with rounded edges hanging on a couple of small nails. So many uses. When dull, get another one from the box. Cheaper than dirt, available from Amazon and elsewhere.

JKJ

[Alan Heffernan]

Dental picks. A friend's father was a dentist and he had a shoebox full of picks and I got a dozen or more. They come in handy all the time for all sorts of tasks.

[Russell Neyman]

Had to look up gimlet because I didn't know what it was (it's a hand-cranked device for making holes from the Neanderthal era) but it turns out I have one. Good tip.
https://en.m.wikipedia.org/wiki/Gimlet_(tool)

[Thom Sturgill]

Sheets of craft foam, especially the self adhesive type. I use it to line jaws, make jam chucks, and to seal the vacuum chuck.

[John Grace]

OK...perhaps not directly related to woodworking, but someone just posted this on my Facebook page and I guarantee you'll find at least one useful tip from this video. Thanks...John

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=7nf_OxIrZN4&list=PLilzfW4pMtHfFNOHZVlfufWiXtWvlz8Og

[Bob Bachynsky]

I have one of the tool magnet bars I place on my work table. When I'm working I set my tools on it so they don't roll off the table or fall when I bump it.

[Dave Bunge]

A good quality spray bottle filled with water. I use it to keep the wood wet when I'm turning thin, once turned bowls, to raise the grain during sanding of salad bowls, and for small cleaning tasks, like cleaning the visor on my face shield.

[Robert Engel]

House wrap makes excellent film doing panel glue ups. Why throw it away?

Non slip rug underlays or shelf liner use on top of workbench or between parts when stacking to protect

Interlocking anti fatigue mats have them all over the shop buy them as Sams.

[Hayes Rutherford]

Laying more than a coupleof tools on the ways doesnt work well for me so I use an ironing board. It is strong for its weight and easy to position.

[Jeff Jackson]

...and a couple of others I spotted later:
• Oven Cleaner -- incredibly effective for removing pitch from saw blades
• Old Sweatshirts & Socks-- I cut the shirt sleeves into segments and slide my bowls into the openings for protection during transportation; socks are for small objects; sweatpants work for very large items.
I too save my old socks with holes because they make great finish rags. But when you hang them out to dry don't do it where the neighbors can see you hanging your old socks that are all yellowed from finish.:eek:

[John Nordyke]

left over roll of painter's plastic sheeting - it is slightly more robust than saran wrap and I use it to wrap the not-yet-processed chunks of green wood after bandsawing in case I get interrupted and they have to sit for a day or two before rough turning.

[John K Jordan]

A container of talc powder and a chalkboard eraser. Rub the talc into cast iron surfaces to lubricate as well as fill the pores to prevent corrosion. I use it on my bandsaw, lathe ways, etc. This recommendation came from the European tool company Robland in their manual for a cast iron sliding table I use on my cabinet saw.

The trick is finding pure talc that doesn't have perfumes and additives that makes it smell like a baby's room. Billiards people know what to get:
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B005U4A9KW

JKJ

[robert baccus]

Clusters of bandaids stapled all over the shop. Small diesel tractor with front end loader to clean out the curls from the shop.

[Brian Myers]

A container of talc powder and a chalkboard eraser. Rub the talc into cast iron surfaces to lubricate as well as fill the pores to prevent corrosion. I use it on my bandsaw, lathe ways, etc. This recommendation came from the European tool company Robland in their manual for a cast iron sliding table I use on my cabinet saw.

The trick is finding pure talc that doesn't have perfumes and additives that makes it smell like a baby's room. Billiards people know what to get:
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B005U4A9KW
(http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B005U4A9KW)
JKJ

Another source for pure talc would be tire talc . You can find it for bicycles but it's not cheap that way. Both NAPA and O'Reilly auto parts have it on their websites , don't know if they carry it in their stores.

[Eric Holmquist]

The small plastic jello shot cups from the party store, I rarely use any fluids (finish, gesso etc.) that even comes close to filling these on any session on a project. They also are adequate for the occasional small parts like the bolts for chuck jaws. You get hundreds of them for almost nothing.

[Walter Mooney]

I have two things:

You know the little plastic letter openers with the little blade in them that people/companies used to give away? They are great for cutting sandpaper -- just fold, crease and slit it with the letter opener.

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Three-ring binders. Everyone has some of them, with different size loops for differing amounts of paperwork to be held in the binder (e.g., 1", 2", 3", etc.). Don't throw them away when the covers wear out. Open them up flat, drill out the two 'pop rivets' that hold the ring assembly to the binder, freeing the ring assembly. Now throw the binder cover away (or recycle it if possible). Mount the ring assembly to a board with a couple short screws, then mount the board on the wall in your shop. They make great places to hang all those little blister-pack cards, as well as keys, small tools, etc. I probably have eight or ten of them scattered around the shop holding al sorts of little things. And it's easy to see what's hanging on each one!


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