Medicine Cabinets - Build thread

[Brian Holcombe]

Evening!

Building a pair of medicine cabinets for my house to replace some real junkers installed by the original builder. These will set into the wall and reveal about 2" of the cabinet.

This first cabinet is the prototype, so there will be limited photos of the process, but the second one I will detail the joinery and build as I progress through it.

Because this is in a high moisture environment I've decided to use cypress, leaning toward quarter sawn material. I bought 4/4 material with designs on ripping it down to the required thickness by hand.

Some of the pieces did not call for resawing and so I used David's jack plane to remove the majority of the material. This removed material in a hurry....I took swipes where easily 1/16" of material was removed.
http://i27.photobucket.com/albums/c181/SpeedyGoomba/B3B80B6A-1E6E-499C-8C4E-03AEA75D1147_zps5fq2jjfp.jpg

Followed up with the try plane
http://i27.photobucket.com/albums/c181/SpeedyGoomba/DE561365-E238-4113-976E-D73723D39727_zpsn12ggire.jpg
Each board was then fine tuned with the #4 plane and then a finish pass was done with the Kanna leaving a super bright surface. The #4 left a surprisingly bright surface on this material but was ever so slightly out done by the Kanna with it's low angle bedding.

Ripping some material for shelving;
http://i27.photobucket.com/albums/c181/SpeedyGoomba/798609B1-99F4-45A2-ACD2-8289895A01CF_zps0i6itock.jpg

Sticking with thin material on this project and joinery which relies minimally upon glue.http://i27.photobucket.com/albums/c181/SpeedyGoomba/6E52AAD4-1180-400A-B2DE-0B0DEF734FC9_zps9d0mnt9n.jpg

If you look closely you may notice that those are mitered edge dovetails, both front and back. I wanted to hide the grooves that will ultimately capture the back panel and also show a miter on the inside of the cabinet.

The outside 1.5" will be wrapped in a surround (door frame), but when the door is opened the leading edges of those miters will be revealed.

The shelves are housed through tenons.

Hope you guys enjoy!

[David Eisenhauer]

OK Brian, 2nd photo of the try plane is just showing off. You may have watched too much of the Japanese planning contest video. And what's up with all of the mess? I worry for you.

[Kees Heiden]

I always feel a little uneasy when people are so productive :p

You are off to a good start!

[Pat Barry]

Ok Brian, can't waiting to see what you are doing with those shelves to connect them to the frame.

[Brian Holcombe]

Thanks gents!

I'll post up some photos of the Jack plane shavings as well, as they come out of the plane, across the grain are as you would expect, but along the grain the shavings are wild.

Pat, sounds good! I'll definitely detail the process.

[Don Emmerling]

I envy that shaving shown in the picture.

[Brian Holcombe]

Thanks Don! I'd love to take credit for mastery of the shaving, but David's Try plane makes those types of shavings with ease. It's very similar to a painting that George often refers to made by a young girl of her father in the work shop, with shavings coming straight out of the plane.

http://i27.photobucket.com/albums/c181/SpeedyGoomba/DD85BF39-24E9-4225-BD6B-36A8965C1A0F_zpsbg1ryipt.jpg

Cutting for scissor hinges

http://i27.photobucket.com/albums/c181/SpeedyGoomba/AE132BB4-E1BB-4250-BD08-8617C193632E_zpsxpcakcrc.jpg

Chopped the waste, pared the floor.

http://i27.photobucket.com/albums/c181/SpeedyGoomba/77A48068-A00A-464F-B9F1-C8E5C2EB2805_zps2k90dwi7.jpg


Cutting single half half blinds around the perimeter frame.

http://i27.photobucket.com/albums/c181/SpeedyGoomba/D6F542BB-98F7-47E3-8D9D-3DEBE898729F_zpsn7xoarav.jpg

Cheating a bit, since I have the compression of softwoods to work to my advantage. So making the tails taper in slightly so that they make a super tight fit.

http://i27.photobucket.com/albums/c181/SpeedyGoomba/96BA5503-5D35-4362-B464-C2BD86DA1B68_zps4y0qydjs.jpg

[Don Emmerling]

Can you enlighten me a little more on David's Try Plane, am not familiar with it.
Thanks
Don

[Brian Holcombe]

David Weaver built the plane for me. It's a double iron beech Try plane, the chip breaker has a long sweeping curve to it and it turns these sort of shavings with ease.

David doesn't built them to sell, but Steve Voigt does.

[Lasse Hilbrandt]

Brian.. As usual beautiful work that one can only be inspired by. I have a question. How do you remove these scribing lines ?

330148

[Brian Holcombe]

Thank you Lasse! The baselines stay, they're an indicator of handwork...and also very difficult to plane away, haha.

[Lasse Hilbrandt]

Haha i like that

[Brian Holcombe]

Skipped a few steps, but I will be certain to detail everything on the second build:

Resawing material for the back

http://i27.photobucket.com/albums/c181/SpeedyGoomba/BA04B95E-6A75-48A3-B00F-4CC6D6F7B8D5_zpsaggg7vrk.jpg (http://s27.photobucket.com/user/SpeedyGoomba/media/BA04B95E-6A75-48A3-B00F-4CC6D6F7B8D5_zpsaggg7vrk.jpg.html)

http://i27.photobucket.com/albums/c181/SpeedyGoomba/FFDADBE0-DA7F-47EF-810D-1F2C548E2D8B_zpsi2cqqffr.jpg (http://s27.photobucket.com/user/SpeedyGoomba/media/FFDADBE0-DA7F-47EF-810D-1F2C548E2D8B_zpsi2cqqffr.jpg.html)

And a mock up on the wall, obviously much drywall work is coming soon, and the door is just set in, not installed.


http://i27.photobucket.com/albums/c181/SpeedyGoomba/043BCBB3-ECF9-4EE6-972C-616DA8F80342_zpssmz1njef.jpg (http://s27.photobucket.com/user/SpeedyGoomba/media/043BCBB3-ECF9-4EE6-972C-616DA8F80342_zpssmz1njef.jpg.html)

No idea what to do for a pull or handle, so that is my current sticking point.

Also, I'm certain to be a shellac convert soon, though I plan to mix my own going forward to dump the chemicals.

[Lasse Hilbrandt]

Wow, what is that veneer from ?

[Brian Holcombe]

Thanks Lasse! That is maple burl veneer, and strangely enough the burl darkens it enough that it's a better match to cypress than it is to other maple.

[Brian Holcombe]

And now for a more detailed follow up of the second cabinet;

Starts with a lot of sawing and resawing;
http://i27.photobucket.com/albums/c181/SpeedyGoomba/8ACAADDF-052A-4487-B085-8E3878870BAC_zpsi15zsii0.jpg (http://s27.photobucket.com/user/SpeedyGoomba/media/8ACAADDF-052A-4487-B085-8E3878870BAC_zpsi15zsii0.jpg.html)
http://i27.photobucket.com/albums/c181/SpeedyGoomba/5C5863A8-E1BB-45C9-8055-55FD4DAABDC3_zps3b8jszco.jpg (http://s27.photobucket.com/user/SpeedyGoomba/media/5C5863A8-E1BB-45C9-8055-55FD4DAABDC3_zps3b8jszco.jpg.html)

http://i27.photobucket.com/albums/c181/SpeedyGoomba/D75BFC4B-0A24-444D-9FD2-20B44E9D876F_zpsvsbdh9i3.jpg (http://s27.photobucket.com/user/SpeedyGoomba/media/D75BFC4B-0A24-444D-9FD2-20B44E9D876F_zpsvsbdh9i3.jpg.html)

Four boards resawn


http://i27.photobucket.com/albums/c181/SpeedyGoomba/685D5A10-08CC-4235-BFDA-0E02B5424C9D_zps0gl206uz.jpg (http://s27.photobucket.com/user/SpeedyGoomba/media/685D5A10-08CC-4235-BFDA-0E02B5424C9D_zps0gl206uz.jpg.html)

Then jointing and thicknessing, using the jack and try planes for this

http://i27.photobucket.com/albums/c181/SpeedyGoomba/1ABDBE74-4A68-4951-803A-518E0E5516CA_zpsou2wrr6t.jpg (http://s27.photobucket.com/user/SpeedyGoomba/media/1ABDBE74-4A68-4951-803A-518E0E5516CA_zpsou2wrr6t.jpg.html)

http://i27.photobucket.com/albums/c181/SpeedyGoomba/C743357C-D0D3-4A8B-91DD-012D9455DDF3_zps3onfjtrs.jpg (http://s27.photobucket.com/user/SpeedyGoomba/media/C743357C-D0D3-4A8B-91DD-012D9455DDF3_zps3onfjtrs.jpg.html)


Then finish planing

http://i27.photobucket.com/albums/c181/SpeedyGoomba/7609B49F-CADC-4311-B124-9FCACBF0B63B_zpsp6cdvrqq.jpg (http://s27.photobucket.com/user/SpeedyGoomba/media/7609B49F-CADC-4311-B124-9FCACBF0B63B_zpsp6cdvrqq.jpg.html)

http://i27.photobucket.com/albums/c181/SpeedyGoomba/6833C37E-B952-4A3D-AAA4-5DFD9AF76EB1_zpsjbddlwl7.jpg (http://s27.photobucket.com/user/SpeedyGoomba/media/6833C37E-B952-4A3D-AAA4-5DFD9AF76EB1_zpsjbddlwl7.jpg.html)

Two sides are set, now onto the reference side. I'm biasing the finished size toward the quarter sawn sections.


http://i27.photobucket.com/albums/c181/SpeedyGoomba/1804A5A6-DDB5-483C-BEA0-8C457F8EC442_zps4t9u9tnn.jpg (http://s27.photobucket.com/user/SpeedyGoomba/media/1804A5A6-DDB5-483C-BEA0-8C457F8EC442_zps4t9u9tnn.jpg.html)

Transfer a line

http://i27.photobucket.com/albums/c181/SpeedyGoomba/CEBD739D-B4F0-410C-A5BC-4E1AEB850CCD_zps75hgjw9a.jpg (http://s27.photobucket.com/user/SpeedyGoomba/media/CEBD739D-B4F0-410C-A5BC-4E1AEB850CCD_zps75hgjw9a.jpg.html)

Then on to side four

http://i27.photobucket.com/albums/c181/SpeedyGoomba/CB2AAF53-4073-4272-B11A-0D3051D1CC2B_zps3g8b0rzk.jpg (http://s27.photobucket.com/user/SpeedyGoomba/media/CB2AAF53-4073-4272-B11A-0D3051D1CC2B_zps3g8b0rzk.jpg.html)

And then the evidence of the remaining sides :D

http://i27.photobucket.com/albums/c181/SpeedyGoomba/62149083-C03E-4A93-9843-A5334CF1AC2C_zpsnghnr6u1.jpg (http://s27.photobucket.com/user/SpeedyGoomba/media/62149083-C03E-4A93-9843-A5334CF1AC2C_zpsnghnr6u1.jpg.html)

Prepped and ready for marking

http://i27.photobucket.com/albums/c181/SpeedyGoomba/76BFC85A-5B8D-456E-A3D3-7B53E2C65397_zps54oqauyc.jpg (http://s27.photobucket.com/user/SpeedyGoomba/media/76BFC85A-5B8D-456E-A3D3-7B53E2C65397_zps54oqauyc.jpg.html)

http://i27.photobucket.com/albums/c181/SpeedyGoomba/CB25387A-3E88-4064-B126-F15568C47226_zps9ti7ajnd.jpg (http://s27.photobucket.com/user/SpeedyGoomba/media/CB25387A-3E88-4064-B126-F15568C47226_zps9ti7ajnd.jpg.html)

[Brian Holcombe]

Onto the cutout;

http://i27.photobucket.com/albums/c181/SpeedyGoomba/C12B4966-F266-44BE-93E4-6EAA4223FE89_zpsyizi2mld.jpg (http://s27.photobucket.com/user/SpeedyGoomba/media/C12B4966-F266-44BE-93E4-6EAA4223FE89_zpsyizi2mld.jpg.html)

I'm paring away the waste, what will be visible is the inside of the case so I'm paring from the inside.

http://i27.photobucket.com/albums/c181/SpeedyGoomba/9526D0F2-A20C-4A01-9757-BB9D8D1D542F_zps4ucqyecw.jpg (http://s27.photobucket.com/user/SpeedyGoomba/media/9526D0F2-A20C-4A01-9757-BB9D8D1D542F_zps4ucqyecw.jpg.html)

http://i27.photobucket.com/albums/c181/SpeedyGoomba/AD215ADF-B56B-4FEB-A25B-592C77199889_zpstpabpdlb.jpg (http://s27.photobucket.com/user/SpeedyGoomba/media/AD215ADF-B56B-4FEB-A25B-592C77199889_zpstpabpdlb.jpg.html)

I normally do not bother with paring blocks, but I made an exception here, I also changed the layout from miters at all corners to miters at the visible corners.

http://i27.photobucket.com/albums/c181/SpeedyGoomba/13DC3FF9-CE6F-4D71-9E8E-DCBB105FC406_zpszwsmhjid.jpg (http://s27.photobucket.com/user/SpeedyGoomba/media/13DC3FF9-CE6F-4D71-9E8E-DCBB105FC406_zpszwsmhjid.jpg.html)

http://i27.photobucket.com/albums/c181/SpeedyGoomba/21A7F484-DF97-46AD-9CD2-8C72969DE438_zps2cxwffmx.jpg (http://s27.photobucket.com/user/SpeedyGoomba/media/21A7F484-DF97-46AD-9CD2-8C72969DE438_zps2cxwffmx.jpg.html)

http://i27.photobucket.com/albums/c181/SpeedyGoomba/E39B83FD-FEC0-488D-B06A-6E0E0D8C95BD_zpseywbpro1.jpg (http://s27.photobucket.com/user/SpeedyGoomba/media/E39B83FD-FEC0-488D-B06A-6E0E0D8C95BD_zpseywbpro1.jpg.html)


And that's where I have stopped for the day, I managed to tear the bolt out of my shoulder vise, so that's taking a few moments to fix.

[Stanley Covington]

Nice work!

How are the ebony handles on your chisels holding up?

Stan

[Brian Holcombe]

Thanks Stanley!

The Ebony and rosewood handles hold up really well, gumi handles are a little nicer to hammer on so I've been sticking to shitan for the Tsuki's and gumi for any new chisels for use with a hammer.

I love my rosewood Kikuhiromaru enough that they're mine for life, but everything with Ebony handles has been sold off (not due to the handles though).

[Stanley Covington]

Thanks Stanley!

The Ebony and rosewood handles hold up really well, gumi handles are a little nicer to hammer on so I've been sticking to shitan for the Tsuki's and gumi for any new chisels for use with a hammer.

I love my rosewood Kikuhiromaru enough that they're mine for life, but everything with Ebony handles has been sold off (not due to the handles though).

Brian:

I will have to give the Kikuhiromaru chisels a try sometime. I am glad to hear the handles are holding up well since kokutan (ebony) and shitan (rosewood) have a reputation (unconfirmed by me) for being brittle and transmitting lots of vibration to the hand when hit with a hammer.

I hope you will post pics of the completed installation. What brand of toothpaste do you prefer?:D

[Zuye Zheng]

Looks great! What kind of vise do you use to hold the boards for resawing?

[Brian Holcombe]

Stanley in my experience the Rosewood/ebony transfer slightly more vibrations to the hands, but it's not very noticeable to me, the sound is more sharp and I bet that is how they get that reputation. I bet if you were using these daily you would consume them slightly faster than gumi or white oak because they peen over easier than either of those, more on par with red oak.

Haha, I use Nature's gate...:D I'll certainly post up th finished result, complete with finished drywall work.

Thanks Zuye! I'm using a Lie Nielsen tail vise to clamp while resawing.

You guys will see an update to my shoulder vise soon as well....since it came apart on me yesterday.

[Brian Holcombe]

Continuing on, I've repaired my bench. The bolt which keeps the shoulder vise from twisting under pressure finally gave up the ghost, and so I replaced it with some quick work.
http://i27.photobucket.com/albums/c181/SpeedyGoomba/98E27FC2-ECC9-43F9-A4CC-46FF3DBCAB37_zpslq3eslj5.jpg (http://s27.photobucket.com/user/SpeedyGoomba/media/98E27FC2-ECC9-43F9-A4CC-46FF3DBCAB37_zpslq3eslj5.jpg.html)

So far this is holding pretty well, nice and sturdy. We'll see how it does over time, this shoulder vise seems capable of putting out an incredible amount of force, so I try to keep it to 'just tight' and not more but it should still be able to function without self destructing, so we shall see.

Anyways, back onto work which should not self destruct over time;

Finished up the mitered edge dovetails and I'm pretty happy with the results, which do reveal the need for a slight bit of fine tuning but most of which will dissappear during the glue-up.

http://i27.photobucket.com/albums/c181/SpeedyGoomba/8AC9E49C-9A3A-4663-B127-F7F3B095E85A_zpsd4zhwi5b.jpg (http://s27.photobucket.com/user/SpeedyGoomba/media/8AC9E49C-9A3A-4663-B127-F7F3B095E85A_zpsd4zhwi5b.jpg.html)

The inside is clean, that is very important. It does reveal that there is a bit more going on than just a plain miter.

http://i27.photobucket.com/albums/c181/SpeedyGoomba/AA7D0C81-BAFF-414F-9CC4-E1B3C4A553CE_zpsf1c3bweu.jpg (http://s27.photobucket.com/user/SpeedyGoomba/media/AA7D0C81-BAFF-414F-9CC4-E1B3C4A553CE_zpsf1c3bweu.jpg.html)

And finally the outside, which I'm very happy with, but unfortunetly the work will be buried in the wall. I suppose it's reassuring enough to simply know that these were built as well as possible given my parameters.

http://i27.photobucket.com/albums/c181/SpeedyGoomba/92C16C78-B830-4D08-BA9E-D7F0E69AC8CD_zpswc4efngr.jpg (http://s27.photobucket.com/user/SpeedyGoomba/media/92C16C78-B830-4D08-BA9E-D7F0E69AC8CD_zpswc4efngr.jpg.html)

[Jerry Olexa]

Very nice work, Brian..Looks to me like an enjoyable day or two in the shop with no motors....Thanks

[David Eisenhauer]

Nice, fun work Brian. Question: When you re saw, it looks like you do not pre-kerf the cut line. Do you only use a pencil line? A scribed marking line? I have been thinking of trying out a kerf to follow, but have not figured out a "kerfer" yet.

[Brian Holcombe]

Thanks gents! I agree, this has been a really fun project.

David, I just scribe a line with a marking gauge. If you flip the board often and lead the cut with side you can see, then you will be fine. I think the most important aspect, aside from practice, is the saw. If the saw is well tuned and capable of clearing the dust then you will have very little trouble.

To give some perspective, I did that sawing and planing work in about 2 hours. Working at a moderate pace and taking a breather to check emails.

[Pat Barry]

Fantastic documentation in this thread - thanks Brian. Also looks like a good fix with your shoulder vise. You can develop a huge leverage torque on the shoulder with this configuration - was a lag bolt the main retainer for the vise arm? The fix you have should serve you well for a long time.

[Al Launier]

The woodworking talent you demonstrate is incredible. Like other elite woodworker on this forum you have taught us neophites much & have done a great service towards promoting this craft. Thank you.

[Sam Murdoch]

Very nice work - inspiring craftsmanship. May I suggest this type of a pull - http://www.cabinetparts.com/p/berenson-contemporary-style-knobs-and-pulls-BE105940VBP?gclid=CjwKEAiA_ra1BRDV-byb_aDqpQoSJAA-ofB9Wt_BBo5LVBIQYf0QGFbRQIQwtKI8-F8Eqk9F4zu10RoCFzjw_wcB

Of course you could make up unique wood knob but the above, in the right finish, would compliment the scissors hinges.

[Brian Holcombe]

Thanks Gents! Sam that is sort of where I am, but in a wooden version....similar I should say.

Pat, it was a 1/2" bolt and two bolts on the supporting member underneath, but really the 1/2" bolt was doing all of the work since that was the one in compression. Glad to see that it looks sturdy to your eye as well.

Cheers
Brian

[Brian Holcombe]

I'm continuing this build on my blog, in order to simplify multiple postings


https://brianholcombewoodworkerblog.wordpress.com/2016/02/03/medicine-cabinet-build-casework/


In this post I'm doing the layout and detail work of the inner case and begin dovetailing the outer case.
http://i27.photobucket.com/albums/c181/SpeedyGoomba/14194882-0C0B-431D-A222-83510CBA7B1D_zpsydfcarzs.jpg


http://i27.photobucket.com/albums/c181/SpeedyGoomba/7C2D66EC-F384-4B6F-91CD-F4030AA08CD2_zpsgmjdkl3h.jpg


http://i27.photobucket.com/albums/c181/SpeedyGoomba/666FAE19-0614-4C7F-848C-71F851FE4785_zpse6f2ypzt.jpg


Check it out and give me feedback, if you guys don't mind the extra click it saves some work on my end, but I appreciate any feedback.

[Brian Holcombe]

Evening gents;


Continuing my medicine cabinet build, I have a detailed version on my new blog.
https://brianholcombewoodworkerblog.wordpress.com/2016/02/04/medicine-cabinets-casework-part-ii/


http://i27.photobucket.com/albums/c181/SpeedyGoomba/9702645A-0703-48F7-BB1A-4F0688EEBB31_zps0ucaorfc.jpg


http://i27.photobucket.com/albums/c181/SpeedyGoomba/F5867692-BDDF-455A-8540-93AD9E6A6CBC_zpsyimfbjgi.jpg


http://i27.photobucket.com/albums/c181/SpeedyGoomba/813EF73A-A3D4-4617-A30F-9403ED9BBD80_zps7ztmgtuy.jpg

[Brian Holcombe]

And onto the doors :D

https://brianholcombewoodworkerblog.wordpress.com/2016/02/04/medicine-cabinet-door-part-i/

http://i27.photobucket.com/albums/c181/SpeedyGoomba/9DF70011-9D74-45D0-95D4-02F6FBE854B0_zpssn53rtrr.jpg
http://i27.photobucket.com/albums/c181/SpeedyGoomba/5013BF38-CA31-4784-BBA1-694BC61B1471_zps1ug7xfkt.jpg
http://i27.photobucket.com/albums/c181/SpeedyGoomba/8F43E47F-B267-4AC1-8123-17653CCBAC48_zpsdgx6kwds.jpg
http://i27.photobucket.com/albums/c181/SpeedyGoomba/A9111ED2-CA4C-4518-8533-F988EE71FA2F_zpspqj8gqk8.jpg

[Brian Holcombe]

Not sure if you guys have taken notice, but the door on this second build is where I am making a departure from my original plan. The original door I think worked out fairly well but is just slightly out of place with the frame it's in....luckily I need two of these cabinets and that one will do fine in my spare bathroom.

The second door is made to stay in keeping with the cabinet a bit more but not to become a typical frame and panel type of door. The cabinet, which features scissor hinges, is not conducive to a typical frame and panel door, to my eye. And so I've been moving toward a design which minimizes the appearance of the frame work, first by putting it flush with the panel (the panel will not be recessed) and second by reducing the rails to slightly more than trim. However, now the rails may have been reduced their function must be transferred to another structural member. In this case I have replaced their function with three battens which will be mortised into the stiles.

The mortises will be blind, their shoulders will be offset from the panel to allow for expansion of the panel (it's so dry in my shop that expansion is the only likely result of moving this cabinet to the bathroom), but the expansion room should be hidden in a gap between the panel and the stiles.

The panel thickness will total 3/4", but I have made available only 1/2" of space at the front of the cabinet. I will recess 1/4" of the door into the cabinet, this will seat the door nicely and if all goes well eliminate the need for a catch. I've used this device on boxes with success and I'm hoping for a repeat performance here. If that fails then I will use a brass catch.

If there are any humidor builders looking in on this build they may have noticed the recessed inner case which is setback 1/4" and the reasoning behind it.

[Chris Hachet]

It is an inspiration for me to do much better. Also, loving the wooden bodies planes in action and the nice dovetail work.

[Brian Holcombe]

Thanks Chris!

Loving the wooden bodied planes in use too, it's actually been the major force in moving toward doing 100% of the work by hand. This cabinet is at about 99% (I have to route one edge on the machine). So I'm getting closer, but the more my tools come in-line with doing the work effectively and quickly the more it becomes a reality to do everything entirely by hand.

[Brian Holcombe]

Part II on the doors is now ready for general consumption. I hope you will check it out and comment as I a fleshing out my door idea a bit in this post.
https://brianholcombewoodworkerblog.wordpress.com/2016/02/06/medicine-cabinet-doors-part-ii/

http://i27.photobucket.com/albums/c181/SpeedyGoomba/50ABA601-6F0E-4B3E-A9C4-92B27344EF35_zpscl6gbh7o.jpg

[Brian Holcombe]

Moving along on the stile in part III

https://brianholcombewoodworkerblog.wordpress.com/2016/02/06/medicine-cabinets-doors-part-iii/

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[Brian Holcombe]

Evening gents! I've got part four together. Please check it out.


Hopefully this shows through what I had in mind for the rails, but if not I will detail the cutout on those very soon for those interested.


https://brianholcombewoodworkerblog.wordpress.com/2016/02/09/medicine-cabinet-doors-part-iv/


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Cheers
Brian

[Phil Mueller]

Just when I think I've seen it all you come up with some mitered dovetail blind scissored something or another. Appreciate the time you take to provide those of us down here on earth still trying to perfect a half lap some inspiration!

[Randy Karst]

Nice layout and joinery Brian, you inspire the ADD side of me to sloooow down and take my time getting things right (in a gestalt short of way). Thanks for posting your blog address... I didn't know.

[John Kananis]

The aesthetic contribution of that bottom rail is worth the extra work (IMHO). As usual, inspiring work.

[Brian Holcombe]

Thanks Gents! Appreciate the kind words, and humor, hah.

The rail was a hefty amount of work. I'll post of the detailed cutout on it tonight, I didn't realize how involved it was until I noticed that I took 26 photos of the process, hah.

Cheers
Brian

[James Pallas]

Really nice Brian. Do you stay up nights just to think up these challenges?
Jim

[Brian Holcombe]

LOL! Certainly seems that way that sometimes. It's terrible making a second of anything, because you start to see all the things you'd like to change. I have the first one installed in the bathroom and so I look at it....daily. I decided I would like to see end grain only on the top and bottom surround, seeing on the corner of the door was a bit odd.

Only once I began planning did I realize how much of a challenge it would be. Not bad though, getting to see what the new chisels are capable of.

Switched the hinges on this one as well, once they arrive I'll post up the cutout. Same style, but I sized them down so that they can be hidden with exception to the pivot.

[Patrick Walsh]

So clean....

I love it!

I filled a gap in one of the dovetails on one my drawers with a sliver and i almost cant sleep about it. I dont have much tollerance for screw ups or sloppy work. I would start over but i want all the birdseye to match on my drawer fronts and i only have so much.

Your work inspires me to not only slow down even further than i already have but to also stop and think why it is something is not working the way i want when im not getting the desired result and find a solution.

How about pictures of the installed cabinet.

[Brian Holcombe]

Thanks Patrick! I wouldn't worry much about the sliver, it will disappear from your mind in time. My goal is always to have crisp and clean, but I hide some sins on occasion. It's one of the risks of handwork, but over time you minimize that sort of stuff to near nothing, but I think even the absolute best individual makers are still going to have some minor flaws. We can't easily compare to the 18th century or something comparable because we have to do the full project from layout to cutout to assembly and everything in between, all of which were separate jobs a long time ago.

I'll certainly post of some photos of the completed and installed cabinet. I'll probably even take some photos as I trim up the dry wall. Oddly enough I actually enjoy drywall work.

Part V of the series is now complete, I'm getting much closer to a finished product, but still have a few important hurdles to climb.

https://brianholcombewoodworkerblog.wordpress.com/2016/02/10/medicine-cabinets-doors-part-v/

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[Brian Holcombe]

Evening Gents;


The final post in this series is now complete. Please have a look and I encourage you to comment :D


https://brianholcombewoodworkerblog.wordpress.com/2016/02/13/medicine-cabinets-complete/


http://i27.photobucket.com/albums/c181/SpeedyGoomba/8BFA43AF-A99E-4910-8C13-FC060602ED36_zps3fzjiquv.jpg


Hope you have enjoyed!