Bandsaw Wheel and Bearing Help Needed

[john lawson]

I am working on an old Bett Marr 14" bandsaw, and I don't know if it is built like the old Deltas or newer imports. Anyway, I have determined the upper and lower bearings need to be replaced. I pulled the top wheel and am trying to get the lower wheel off, but it appears that the bearings are pressed into the casting and/or onto the shaft. There is no bolt holding the wheel on. The upper wheel is captured in the assembly, but the lower wheel spindle passess directly through the casting.

I used a puller to get the upper casting off but I still have the spindle in the wheel with the bearings. Pics below. Ideas? Like I said, I have a 3 jaw puller, I tried that on the lower wheel by attaching the jaws next to the spokes, but I did not want to use too much force and break a wheel spoke. I also use a propane torch to heat the wheel casting at the hub, but again, may not have gone far enough.

If needed I can buy a small arbor press, but I wanted to ask for advice here first; I have done many google searches but have not found this problem/solution.

thanks in advance.

[john lawson]

Here is a shot with the puller on the wheel

[Lee Schierer]

Can you identify what we are seeing in the first four pictures. Are pictures 1 & 2 the upper wheel or the lower wheel? It isn't clear what picture number 3 is. Picture #4 looks like the lower wheel.

[john lawson]

Pictures 1 & 2 are the upper wheel. I did get it off the saw. As you can see it has the shaft and bearing still on it. Spline sticking up is the back of the wheel.

Pictures 3 & 4 are the lower wheel, on the bandsaw, pictures take front and back of the saw, the spline sticking out is the back of the saw.

Pictures 5 & 6 are where I put the puller on the lower wheel, front of saw, to show how I started to "pull it", but stopped out of caution.

[Lee Schierer]

I am not familiar with your saw, but my guess is that there are bearings in the housing behind the lower wheel and putting your puller where it is shown in the photos is absolutely the wrong approach. The machined shaft for the lower wheel is likely threaded into the wheel hub with a thread that would tend to tighten as the shaft is driving the wheel to turn. Or it is a press fit, possibly, with a key so it won't rotate. I would think that the lower wheel with shaft should pull out of the bearings out the front of the saw leaving the shaft and wheel as an assembly. I don't see anything that would prevent the shaft from sliding out the front.

Where does the belt pulley go on the lower shaft?

Again this is just a guess as I am not familiar with your saw.

[Andrew Hughes]

Make sure you get any and all setscrews out.Sometimes there are two in the same hole.Thats all I got.

[john lawson]

The lower pulley goes on the shaft sticking out the back in this picture

[Lee Schierer]

The lower pulley goes on the shaft sticking out the back in this picture
If the bottom wheel is what is partially seen through that opening at the top of your photo, then the shaft goes out the front. So, clean out all that sawdust in that housing and see if there is a snap ring inside that housing that holds the shaft in place. If you don't see a snap ring in there, take a block of wood and give that end of the shaft a good tap with your hammer. See if the shaft moves.

[john lawson]

Just to be clear with what you said, Lee, your thinking it comes out the front, correct? The picture below is the front, and if you can see it, there is a drill point on the shaft, I assumed that was for a puller?

[Tom M King]

PB Blaster, or the newer penetrating lube by WD40. I've had good luck with that WD40 stuff. We got some 85 year old single pipe system steam heating pipes loose with it. https://www.google.com/shopping/product/5914182087437084344?sclient=psy-ab&biw=1920&bih=985&q=wd+40+penetrating+oil&oq=&pbx=1&bav=on.2,or.r_cp.&bvm=bv.112454388,d.eWE&sns=1&pf=p&tch=1&ech=18&psi=iOCiVqKEM4iRmQGgqbf4BQ.1453514862526.1&sa=X&sqi=2&ved=0ahUKEwjzs5D57L7KAhWGTCYKHSmnBygQuiQIhAE

[Myk Rian]

DO NOT put the puller directly on the wheel.
Use a bearing puller behind the hub. HF has one for not many dollars.

[Lee Schierer]

Just to be clear with what you said, Lee, your thinking it comes out the front, correct? The picture below is the front, and if you can see it, there is a drill point on the shaft, I assumed that was for a puller?

That drill point was probably used to make the shaft.

[Lee Schierer]

DO NOT put the puller directly on the wheel.
Use a bearing puller behind the hub. HF has one for not many dollars.

Guys, the lower wheel is the driven wheel. There are no bearings in the lower wheel hub they are in the saw frame.

[Tom Giacomo]

You are right that nub is for a puller. Try heating it up and use PB blaster put a hard pull on it and tap it with a soft hammer.

[Myk Rian]

Guys, the lower wheel is the driven wheel. There are no bearings in the lower wheel hub they are in the saw frame.

Why quote me? I never said there were bearings. If he wants to pull the lower wheel, let him have at it.

[Tom M King]

Can you show pictures inside the frame case on the other end of that shaft? I expect you will find something in there useful to you.

[john lawson]

Can you show pictures inside the frame case on the other end of that shaft? I expect you will find something in there useful to you.

I can show you he inside only if I get the lower wheel off, if that is what you're asking.

[Tom M King]

The bearings for that lower wheel are not in the hub of the wheel. I was thinking you should be able to take the assembly out of the lower cabinet, and pull the bearing off the shaft, or the shaft through the bearing. There should be something on the inside of the cabinet that's holding the shaft in.

[Lee Schierer]

The bearings for that lower wheel are not in the hub of the wheel. I was thinking you should be able to take the assembly out of the lower cabinet, and pull the bearing off the shaft, or the shaft through the bearing. There should be something on the inside of the cabinet that's holding the shaft in.

Exactly.....

[john lawson]

Okay, I got it off. Below is a picture of the wheel with the shaft still in it along with the bearing(s). And I was able to drive it out the front using a little heat and more than a little hammer against wood, but it worked perfectly. It looks like three different bearings but could not get a putty knife between them so not sure. I will work on getting the bearings out of the upper wheel and off the lower shaft tomorrow. If I don't break anything I can then order bearings.

Several of you told me what to do and it took awhile for it to make sense. Thanks for the help and sticking with me. Lee, I did go over to OWWM and I can post but can't upload a picture until I get an offsite host.

[Tom M King]

Good work. You didn't give up!

[Ronald Blue]

The center hole was used in the manufacture of the shaft. It was likely turned between centers. Center holes aren't normally placed there for pullers. Follow Lee's suggestions to clean the sawdust out and check for a snap ring. Remove if there is one and then use a solid piece of oak and a heavy hammer. They will be tight but should drive out.

[john lawson]

Okay, a question about the bearings. They appear to be 30 mm OD and .625 ID, seems an odd size. I have researched bearing sites and ebay and can't find a single bearing this size. They are old made in the U.S.A. bearings with the stamp "HOOVER" on them.

Any suggestions, do you normally find an odd size bearing or try to sleeve the larger OD to a smaller size?

The old band saw is worth repairing for a reasonable cost but this is starting to look like a wild goose chase.

[Tom M King]

a part number off the bearing would help, as would the thickness

[Ronald Blue]

Those look like they are needle or roller bearings. The wide race width is a give away. Yes they could be double row ball but not with the small od to id size.

[john lawson]

There are no markings. On the bearings, they are shielded and the total height or width on the last photo is 1.5"

[Tom M King]

Do you have them off the shaft?

[john lawson]

No, they are as the picture shows, but I took the od from the bearing and the id from the shaft. I wanted to make sure the bearings are available before I destroy them

[Keith Westfall]

You need a bearing puller with a split plate to hook under the bottom of the bearing. No need to destroy them just to get them off...

330157

[Lee Schierer]

I would take the wheel, shaft and bearings to Motion Industries there in Birmingham and show them the bearings. They will have the expertise to get you the correct bearings for replacement.

[john lawson]

Lee, that is kinda what I had decided. If anyone can find it they should be able to.

thanks again

[john lawson]

Well, of all things it is an automotive water pump bearing, for a 1941 to 1971 jeep. One of the guys at OWWM identified it as such.!!

Now to find it.

[Ronald Blue]

That's a good plan to go to Motion Industries. Are you sure on the dimensions you stated. .625 seems small for the shaft size.