radial arm saw

[jeff oldham]

I have an old craftsman radial arm saw and I am in the process of trueing it up and I have done everthing the manual says,,but my problem is that then it cuts,,it actually goes thru the wood at a angle,,the blade actually pushes the wood back,,the manual says to move the rail system unloosten a bolt on the bach so you can move it right or left,,i have tried this and cant seem to get it to move,,i know its old and but can anyone tell me how to set the rail ,,or move the rail,,,,i hate to get rid of it,,,but I really would like to have it cutting square,,i did everything the manual says and layed a square on the table to make sure the blade runs true from the back to the front and it does,,but I still have the same trouble when I start it,,the blade goes thru at a angle and pushes the wood to the left,,i even changed blades but still no luck,,,,

[Tom M King]

The bearings in the rollers on the arm have eccentric centers. It takes a lot of fiddling, but you can get it to cut perfectly, at least if it's like the 12" that I have which I bought new in 1974. I only use mine for accurate 90 degree cuts, like tenon shoulders and such. If you let it hang up hard in a sorry board, it will probably be the end of that adjustment. I haven't had to touch mine in 20 years to adjust it, and it still makes a perfect crosscut, but I never do rough work with it.

[Bill Orbine]

"the blade goes thru at a angle and pushes the wood to the left"

Sounds like you are describing the face of the blade is not parallel to the linear motion of the blade travel. For that, you need to make adjustments at the top of the yoke where it attaches to the roller carriage.

[Rick Potter]

Not quite sure from your description. If the blade does not cut at a 90 degree angle to the fence, there should be adjustments for the stops on the column.

If the blade is cutting a kerf that is thicker than the blade, you need to adjust the 'heel', like Bill mentioned. Small screws in the yoke do that, but don't do it unless you are sure. If it is not in your manual, try googling ' radial arm saw blade heel', or something like that.

[Randy Rose]

Also. inspect the rails that the rollers ride on and "flip" them if worn

[jeff oldham]

since my last posting I have tried everyone's advice on setting up my radial arm saw, watched videos and even got a new blade for it and now I find out the blade is veering about 3/8" from the back stop where the blade starts cutting to the end of the carriage....lol...I have checked the settings over and over but this is happening now. Any more suggestions before I scrap it? lol

[Ronald Blue]

Can you better clarify what is happening? I think you are saying it is off line by 3/8" from the beginning of the cut to the end of stroke which would indicate a need to zero it in at 90 degrees.

[Matt Day]

Its usually best to post to your first thread so we have the background information. For instance what saw do you have? Are you going by the manual to set it up?

Everything is adjustable on RAS's you just have to follow the proper setup procedures.

[Lee Schierer]

Can you take a couple of photos show what the problem is and post them here?

[Tom M King]

Does the sliding part have any slop on the rails side to side?

[Tom Ewell]

Assuming no problems with the arm tracking then it should be adjustable as Matt points out.
If it's cutting out of square relative to the fence, the arm needs to be adjusted.
If the blade is skewed in either direction, the head angle needs to be adjusted.
Make sure the table is flat and in plane with the arm.
Make sure the arm lock, detent etc is secure when cutting.

Probably the most troubling things with these saws is that they are so adjustable, if one adjustment is off then all is off in varying degrees.

[Tom Deutsch]

This situation sounds dangerous, Jeff. I think we're all having trouble understanding from your description exactly what is happening but I wouldn't plug the thing in. There is a reason RAS saws went out of fashion, and maladjustment is the chief one along with lesser build quality. Just my opinion.

[larry senen]

This situation sounds dangerous, Jeff. I think we're all having trouble understanding from your description exactly what is happening but I wouldn't plug the thing in. There is a reason RAS saws went out of fashion, and maladjustment is the chief one along with lesser build quality. Just my opinion.

as it was explained to me "there are no SMALL ACCIDENTS" on a radial arm saw. it's all or nothing

[Tom Deutsch]

Don't get me wrong - I love my DeWalt GP - but it has mass on its side and holds adjustments under pressure (so as not to turn boards into projectiles).

[Erik Christensen]

I have a 12" delta turret RAS - it is a replacement for a craftsman I had for decades

the RAS is like a shaper - a tool with a justified 'dangerous' reputation due to the tool's intolerance of ignorant/careless users

get it tuned up - install the proper blade (neg hook angle) - use it correctly & a RAS is no more dangerous than any other wood cutting tool

[Peter Quinn]

I have an old craftsman radial arm saw and I am in the process of trueing it up and I have done everthing the manual says,,but my problem is that then it cuts,,it actually goes thru the wood at a angle,,the blade actually pushes the wood back,,the manual says to move the rail system unloosten a bolt on the bach so you can move it right or left,,i have tried this and cant seem to get it to move,,i know its old and but can anyone tell me how to set the rail ,,or move the rail,,,,i hate to get rid of it,,,but I really would like to have it cutting square,,i did everything the manual says and layed a square on the table to make sure the blade runs true from the back to the front and it does,,but I still have the same trouble when I start it,,the blade goes thru at a angle and pushes the wood to the left,,i even changed blades but still no luck,,,,


The bolts on the back hold the fence and rear boards which are essentially cleats in place, not the front table, which is what must be squared to the carriage's travel. You have to loosen the 6 bolts that hold the front table to the frame, they should be on slotted holes, then you tap the front table into square, tighten the hold down bolts, then reinstall the fence and rear boards. Thats the way I'm reading the manual I found on line. Similar to older delta models Ive set up, simple but should work. Those wing bolts on the rear are NOT the squaring mechanism, its the whole front table that must be adjusted. This whole thing assumes that the front board on your saw has a straight rear edge to reference, if yours does not have a straight rear edge, make it straight.

[Denny Tudor]

Jeff.

Peter is right on in previous post. Carpenters square is best tool to square up table.
For addition info- Hands down the "bible " of RAS books is by Jon EAKEs

http://joneakes.com/learning-curve/75-radial-arm-saws

its also available at Amazon.

They are are great tools. I would never ever give my craftsman ras up.

[Ken Combs]

First order of business: call the number for the recall(google radial arm saw recall). You may get a new table and guard free if yours is in the right age bracket.

I've had the 'pleasure' of aligning several of these.

A I recall the sequence is:Adjust column to support tension/clearance(clamp screw on the back of column support). Adjust column to arm free play(set screw on the back of the column support). level table to the motor(screws that hold table supports to the frame?. square arm to the table(screws on back of arm/column). align the blade to the kerf(bearing eccentric adjust on carriage). Not really difficult, just requires precision at every step.

[Mike Chalmers]

The recall is limited to $100 rebate if you return the motor and carriage housing. In other words, you lose the saw.

[Ed Aumiller]

There is also another recall... it is to provide a safer blade guard... if you get that one, it comes with a new table and backstop... not sure of years it was done but should be able to locate it via bing or google...
You end up with a nice unit...

RAS's are great in my opinion... all power woodworking tools are dangerous if used improperly....

Also, Peter Quinn's post about squaring the table to the arm of the saw is correct for both of the Sears RAS's I have had...

[Duane Meadows]

There is also another recall... it is to provide a safer blade guard... if you get that one, it comes with a new table and backstop... not sure of years it was done but should be able to locate it via bing or google...
You end up with a nice unit...



Was anyway... I thinks in most, if not all cases at this time(the recall has been around for years) your only recourse is the $100 for return of the motor/carriage. With the model/serial numbers you can check here...

http://www.radialarmsawrecall.com/determinemodels.aspx

[Ed Aumiller]

The recall I am talking about was by Sears if I remember correctly... not Emerson.. if I remember to check after the snow episode here will try to find info in shop...

[Ken Combs]

The recall is limited to $100 rebate if you return the motor and carriage housing. In other words, you lose the saw.



That is only for those saws that are too old to be retrofitted with the new table and guard.

And those are the best of the breed, IMHO.

here is a link to all the info:
http://rasrecall.com/faq.aspx#whyretrofit

The recall was by Emerson, for saws sold by sears.

[Ken Combs]

I have an old craftsman radial arm saw and I am in the process of trueing it up and I have done everthing the manual says,,but my problem is that then it cuts,,it actually goes thru the wood at a angle,,the blade actually pushes the wood back,,the manual says to move the rail system unloosten a bolt on the bach so you can move it right or left,,i have tried this and cant seem to get it to move,,i know its old and but can anyone tell me how to set the rail ,,or move the rail,,,,i hate to get rid of it,,,but I really would like to have it cutting square,,i did everything the manual says and layed a square on the table to make sure the blade runs true from the back to the front and it does,,but I still have the same trouble when I start it,,the blade goes thru at a angle and pushes the wood to the left,,i even changed blades but still no luck,,,,

Try this: lay your square in place, then elevate the front as high as possible. while holding it against the blade, with the guard removed. I'll bet you will find the blade is not square to the direction of travel. Just adjust the eccentric bearing on the carriage to align the blade and provide the correct fit. If too tight it will be hard to move, too loose and it will 'wiggle' on the arm. It'll likely take more than one iteration to get it on the money, but it can be done.

[Mike Schuch]

1) Square the arm to the fence. Lay a framing square on the table. Elevate the carriage so the bottom most tooth is about 3/16" off the table. Butt the framing square against the bottom tooth so the tooth just barely touches the edge of the framing square. When you pull the carriage forwards the tooth should just scrape the edge of the framing square all the way forwards. To adjust loosen the 4 bolts that fasten the column to the stand and turn the column slightly until the bottom tooth can maintain contact with the edge of the square all the way through the carriage travel on the arm. After you have the arm adjusted and the 4 bolts tightened back up test again to make sure the arm didn't move during tightening.

2) Now that the arm is perpendicular to the fence you need to square the blade. Lift the framing square up a few inches in the front. The framing square will intersect the blade in the front and back of the blade. Adjust the carriage wrist so the blade touches the framing square in the front and the back. I believe there are 2 Allen screws on the carriage stop plunger to adjust the angle of the wrist.

[Roy Turbett]

Jeff.

Peter is right on in previous post. Carpenters square is best tool to square up table.
For addition info- Hands down the "bible " of RAS books is by Jon EAKEs

http://joneakes.com/learning-curve/75-radial-arm-saws

its also available at Amazon.

They are are great tools. I would never ever give my craftsman ras up.

+1 Jon Eakes book, Fine Tuning a Radial Arm Saw is by far the best book on the subject. Well worth the money.