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Chris Hachet
01-19-2016, 2:00 PM
Thanks to everyone for their help in the ripping thread I started-I have got my sawyering pretty much figured out in terms of rip cuts, would like to find a good rip saw of I assume about 5 TPI for ripping 6/4 and 8/4 stock.

Will be mostly hardwood, including QSWO and hard maple.

Which of the newer saws is the best affordable alternative? Looking for something affordable that I can put to work with minimal sharpening.

Regards,

Chris

steven c newman
01-19-2016, 2:30 PM
IF you can hold out til saturday........

Chris Hachet
01-19-2016, 3:27 PM
IF you can hold out til saturday........

I can indeed hold out....I also can sharpen and restore a dogmeat saw if it has potential....

Jim Koepke
01-19-2016, 3:43 PM
Chris,

I have a 6ppi D8 rip that I like a lot. Did have a 4-1/2ppi that was a lot of work ripping the same 4/4 ash stock and only saved a couple minutes on 10' planks.

If you are going to saw thicker and sharpen your own saw, it might be a good idea to put some deeper gullets on the saw.

jtk

Lasse Hilbrandt
01-19-2016, 3:48 PM
On Fine-tools. com you will find replacement blades for framesaws. they are really affordable if you find an old frame saw to fit it to.

Chris Hachet
01-19-2016, 3:55 PM
Chris,

I have a 6ppi D8 rip that I like a lot. Did have a 4-1/2ppi that was a lot of work ripping the same 4/4 ash stock and only saved a couple minutes on 10' planks.

If you are going to saw thicker and sharpen your own saw, it might be a good idea to put some deeper gullets on the saw.

jtk

I may have to try that.

Tom M King
01-19-2016, 4:18 PM
Get a full sized handsaw rather than a panel saw.

steven c newman
01-19-2016, 5:01 PM
Afraid the one I am using will not do for what you need, will have to go downtown Saturday and pick up the D8 thumby..
329741
D-23.....hey, it do work...

lowell holmes
01-19-2016, 5:26 PM
I just don't like the 4 1/2 and 6 tooth rip saws. I sharpen mine to 8tpi. They don't cut quite as fast, but the resulting cut is much smoother.

You might want to get a large 4 1/2 OR 6 tooth saw for nominal cost and then sharpen a 8 point saw rip also.

I have full size rip saws, but I also have 8 and 10 tpi saws sharpened rip. They are much more civilized. Tage Frid sharpened all of his saws rip.

I have a panel saw sharpened with 8 pt. rip teeth and I like it.

Matt Knights
01-20-2016, 2:29 AM
I just don't like the 4 1/2 and 6 tooth rip saws. I sharpen mine to 8tpi. They don't cut quite as fast, but the resulting cut is much smoother.

You might want to get a large 4 1/2 OR 6 tooth saw for nominal cost and then sharpen a 8 point saw rip also.

I have full size rip saws, but I also have 8 and 10 tpi saws sharpened rip. They are much more civilized. Tage Frid sharpened all of his saws rip.

I have a panel saw sharpened with 8 pt. rip teeth and I like it.


Resawing 8" thick boards with a 8 or 10 point saw is no fun I can tell you. I do this fairly regularly and found it hard work with a 6tpi, the saw tended to curve in the cut and create one bellied face and one hollow face because of this I bouts a 30" 4tpi disston, sharpened and set correctly it flys through.

329779
This is with my old 6tpi.

Matt

Chris Hachet
01-20-2016, 7:29 AM
Afraid the one I am using will not do for what you need, will have to go downtown Saturday and pick up the D8 thumby..
329741
D-23.....hey, it do work...

Sounds like a winning plan to me!

Chris Hachet
01-20-2016, 7:30 AM
I just don't like the 4 1/2 and 6 tooth rip saws. I sharpen mine to 8tpi. They don't cut quite as fast, but the resulting cut is much smoother.

You might want to get a large 4 1/2 OR 6 tooth saw for nominal cost and then sharpen a 8 point saw rip also.

I have full size rip saws, but I also have 8 and 10 tpi saws sharpened rip. They are much more civilized. Tage Frid sharpened all of his saws rip.

I have a panel saw sharpened with 8 pt. rip teeth and I like it.

I have an 8 point saw and it works well in 3/4 inch and one inch material, I want something to rough 8/4 material. my 8 point does not have an agressive filing, and it does not like thicker lumber.

Chris Hachet
01-20-2016, 7:31 AM
Get a full sized handsaw rather than a panel saw.

I think we may have a confusion in terms. I am calling a full size saw a panel saw....what Lie Nielson calls them on their site. Should I be using a different term?

Regards,

Chris

Nicholas Lawrence
01-20-2016, 8:19 AM
I think a full sized saw is something like 29 inches long, and a panel saw is five or six inches shorter. If you can try some before you buy, I would recommend it. I have a full sized Disston, but for a lot of rips I just prefer a shorter one.

Tom M King
01-20-2016, 8:30 AM
The D8 with the thumbhole is hard to beat for a big toothed rip saw. Having the second hand on there helps a lot.

lowell holmes
01-20-2016, 9:18 AM
Actually, I have a 6 tooth rip saw that I will use if necessary. There is no reason not to have both is there?:)

Tom M King
01-20-2016, 1:50 PM
329823
I think we may have a confusion in terms. I am calling a full size saw a panel saw....what Lie Nielson calls them on their site. Should I be using a different term?

Regards,

Chris

I just checked the LN site. They don't sell a full sized handsaw, or rather what is commonly called a "handsaw". All theirs are panel saws, which typically have a 20" blade, whereas handsaws have 26" blades, although you do run across a few rip saws with blades longer than 26".

Also, I wouldn't buy a handsaw, or panel saw, that didn't have a taper ground blade. The taper grind allows you to use less set for the same steerage, and thus less effort cutting. I have one panel saw that I keep in the toolbox on the truck because of it's size, but otherwise don't like the shorter blade for general use. I cut siding with a handsaw, but don't do a whole lot of ripping with one. The siding in that picture was cut with a Sandvik 270 10 pt. It looks tight, but it's floating on the nails, and you can move each piece with a fingertip. You can't do that if it's jambed into the corner board tightly. If one board was sprung in tightly, it will open up the one under it. Marked with a preacher and no. 4 pencil, nothing else was done to each board after cutting, but nailed up.

lowell holmes
01-20-2016, 2:08 PM
Actually, you need one of each, that being panel and handsaw in each tooth count and rip or crosscut.
You should be just like most of us.:)

The reason you need one of each is so you can change your mind according to your current whim.

OBTW, seriously, the D23 is a keeper saw as is the D7 or D8.

Tom M King
01-20-2016, 2:10 PM
I think I'm down to about 16 that I use, no joke-not only tooth count, but different geometries for the same tooth count-probably only a half dozen backsaws not included under "handsaw" category.