Problem with miter saw table grinding as it rotates

[Ken Platt]

Folks, I am having a problem with rotating the table on my Makita LS 1013 sliding miter saw. After making a series of rotations back and forth to miter at 45 or a bit beyond, there was a grinding feeling and the table was hard to rotate. I looked and there are metal filings at the rear of that metal ring the table sits on, BOTH right and left sides of the saw. None in front. The scoring on the metal ring on which the table sits is obvious.

So I figure somehow something got into that area on both sides, between the rim of the table and that metal ring it rides on. I've never cut metal, so I can't quite figure out what might be in there that could score the metal. I would think that saw dust would just get pushed out. I did cut some PVC a few months ago...

Anyhow, I tried compressed air, no help. Any ideas on fixing this? I'm figuring that I need to lift the table off the base, but I cannot see how to do that. Anyone had to disassemble one of these things? I'd be appreciative of any tips, thoughts, etc.

Ken

[Warren Wilson]

Ken: I don't have a ready answer for you, but you can get schematics for the saw here:

http://makitatools.com/en-us/Modules/Tools/ToolSupport.aspx?Name=LS1013

The parts diagram is probably more useful than the users manual

[Greg R Bradley]

On the xx13 and xx14 series saws the entire bed rotates, one of their OUTSTANDING features, making them very accurate. It pivots around a central bolt. Easy to take apart as I recall.

The newer xx16 saws gained features like the ability to miter to 60* one direction but went way downhill for accuracy.

I would have never sold my 1214 if the dust collection wasn't horrible. I sold it used for more than I paid for it to a friend that went thru a couple new 1216 before realizing they were garbage. He just made me an offer I couldn't refuse.

[Tom Ewell]

Haven't had mine for a while but I do recall having to spray some dry lube stuff around the rim.

If I recall correctly RE Part#153 (in the parts diagram) ..... the ring is plastic or some such, It may be worn through. If it doesn't appear to be worn, try the spray and work it in by rotating the saw.

Seems like I had to do this quite frequently even with normal operations and could never really figure out how crap got in there to start grinding on the slide plates.
Liked the saw regardless tho.

[Lee Schierer]

I suspect what you are seeing is galling of the aluminum due to lack of lubrication. About all you can do is disassemble the parts, buff out the affected area to remove the high spots and then lube the contact surfaces with a silicone grease before putting it all back together.

[Ken Fitzgerald]

Looking at the parts breakdown, it appears that one bolt p/n 107 holds the rotating portion to the stationary base.

The only gotcha appears to be during the assembly you might have to release the lock while setting the rotating part back onto the base to reinstall part number 107.

Once the rotating assembly is off it should be easy to see what was binding or rubbing and causing the noise.

[Judson Green]

Had the same thing on mine. took it apart (you dont need no stinking schematics) cleaned it real well and a bit of lube , dont recall what kind, back together and i was mitering all over the place.

[Martin Wasner]

I knew it was a makita before opening the thread.

Shoot a quality lube in the bottom where the pivoting part of the table goes into the base. There's a flat bearing that rests on the base that the table glides on. You can disassemble the whole thing to clean and lubricate but it's a giant pain in the rear.

[Brian Tymchak]

I knew it was a makita before opening the thread.

Shoot a quality lube in the bottom where the pivoting part of the table goes into the base. There's a flat bearing that rests on the base that the table glides on. You can disassemble the whole thing to clean and lubricate but it's a giant pain in the rear.

Thanks for the info Martin. I've never lubed my 1013 in the 13 yrs I've owned it. Will put that on my to-do list.

[Ken Platt]

OK, so I've manged to remove the top - it was just that one bolt Ken saw - it was hidden by the plastic kerf board things, and recessed. Thanks Warren for the diagram.

I can see now that the top rotates on a central ring, #153 in diagram, which is a thin, very smooth metal ring. Well, half-ring, there's 2 pieces, front and back. They appear just fine. The top also sits on two curved ridges on either side329738, and the top has a corresponding ridge that rides on that curved ridge of the base. Although I can't see anything inparticular to have caused the problem, both of those curved ridges in the base are scored towards the back of the base. There doesn't seem to be any scoring of the top - it seems to be a harder metal.

So. I can carefully and lightly file down the scored areas.

Next - What lubricant would folks use? There did not appear to be any lubricant anywhere on either the central ring (that thin piece of metal p/n 153) nor on the ridges which seem to be the problem. There was some grease on that central bolt, which does kinda look like silicone lubricant as Lee suggested. Seems an odd choice - isn't that stuff mainly used for it's waterproofness?

I guess spray dry lube for the rest? I have some bike chain lube that is a liquid; it might go on that flat metal piece well. Other ideas? I do have some of that UMHW tape from Lee valley, but I'm not sure it'd hold up to the rubbing of rotating, also I'd have to put some on the central ring area so keep all the supporting areas coplanar.

Again, I appreciate the assistance -

Ken

[Judson Green]

I dont recall what i used back then, but today i have graphite power in the shop so thats what id use.

[Martin Wasner]

I use LPS 2