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Corey Hallagan
09-08-2005, 8:27 PM
Getting ready to order a Link belt for the Delta CS. Rocker sells it by the foot. How much do I need for a contractors saw, 4 foot?

Thanks,
Corey

Steve Clardy
09-08-2005, 8:29 PM
Not sure about the footage.
Grizzley has it also. Maybe a little cheaper Corey.

Cecil Arnold
09-08-2005, 8:39 PM
If you buy the link belt it would be a good time to replace the pulleys if they are cast and not machined. It sure smoothes out the saw.

Norman Hitt
09-08-2005, 8:41 PM
Getting ready to order a Link belt for the Delta CS. Rocker sells it by the foot. How much do I need for a contractors saw, 4 foot?

Thanks,
Corey

Cory, there are several ways to come up with the right length needed, but the easiest/foolproof method I've found, is to take the belt off that is on the saw now, wrap a piece of masking tape around it and put a mark on it. Now take a tape measure or yardstick and start measuring the old belt holding the belt against the tape/yardstick and working your way around the belt til you come back to the starting mark. Whatever you read at the mark is the length you need. I use this also to measure Bandsaw blades. If you're careful, keeping the belt/blade stretched tight and against the tape measure, it will be real accurate.

One other thing, you need to be sure you order the proper width link belt so it will fit the pully's correctly. IIRC, this is explained on one of the Link Belt sites.

Corey Hallagan
09-08-2005, 8:43 PM
I agree Cecil but them bad boys are on there, they aint going anywhere! They won't budge. Not worth beating the H out of the thing and screwing something else up :)

Thanks,
Corey

Norman Hitt
09-08-2005, 8:53 PM
I agree Cecil but them bad boys are on there, they aint going anywhere! They won't budge. Not worth beating the H out of the thing and screwing something else up :)

Thanks,
Corey

Cory, if you have an "Autozone" auto parts place there, you can most likely Rent a 'Bearing puller" for nearly nothing for an evening, and it would probably take about 5 min or less to pull each pully so they could be lined up properly. Something is sure wrong with the way they are installed if they are that tight. Sounds like they may have pressed them on too far and jammed the key at the tapered end of the keyway slot, or something.

Corey Hallagan
09-08-2005, 8:57 PM
Thanks Norman, bearing puller or gear puller?

Corey

Don Baer
09-08-2005, 9:16 PM
Cory,

Here is how you figure the belt length

(2x Center distance)+1/2(Pitch Dia of drive pulley x 3.14)+1/2 (Picth Dia of driven pulley x 3.14).

Norman Hitt
09-08-2005, 9:32 PM
Thanks Norman, bearing puller or gear puller?

CoreyCory, a Gear puller will work, but they just have two or three hooks to fit over the pully, and with the cheap potmetal pullys we get on most machines, the hooks will usually bend or distort the pullys, AND if the pully is mounted too far onto the shaft, sometimes there isn't enough room to get the hooks in between the pully and motor or arbor housing. The bearing puller, however, has a thin hard metal plate that will easily fit in between the pully and motor/arbor, and makes contact with the pully close to the shaft instead of out along the outer edge of the pully. This eliminates any chance of distorting the pully.

Corey Hallagan
09-08-2005, 9:41 PM
Thanks Norman for your help, just talked tot he FIL and he thinks he still has one. Used to sell bearings and other auto parts etc. Will give that a shot. It is the motor pulley that I think is offset a tad and is a B to get off. Never tried the arbor pulley. I don't know how in the heck I would even get at that one.

Corey

Vaughn McMillan
09-08-2005, 9:44 PM
Cory, a Gear puller will work, but they just have two or three hooks to fit over the pully, and with the cheap potmetal pullys we get on most machines, the hooks will usually bend or distort the pullys, AND if the pully is mounted too far onto the shaft, sometimes there isn't enough room to get the hooks in between the pully and motor or arbor housing. The bearing puller, however, has a thin hard metal plate that will easily fit in between the pully and motor/arbor, and makes contact with the pully close to the shaft instead of out along the outer edge of the pully. This eliminates any chance of distorting the pully.
PMFJI, but thanks Norman for the explanation. I didn't know the difference between the two. Ya learn somthin' every day at the Creek.

- Vaughn

Norman Hitt
09-08-2005, 10:00 PM
Th Never tried the arbor pulley. I don't know how in the heck I would even get at that one.

Corey

Cory, when younger, I could get at things UNDER my old Contr saw, but Now that the old Body don't bend as well, :o anytime I need to get at something under there, I just tip it over til it is on it's top on the floor, (or on a bench), and then I can get to anything under there, :D so if you do have to work under there, keep this tip in mind.

Corey Hallagan
09-08-2005, 10:29 PM
I hear yah there Norman. Tipping that thing over would have long lasting effects as well :) Thanks again for your help!

Corey

Jules Dominguez
09-08-2005, 11:32 PM
I recently replaced the original v-belt on an old Delta contractor saw with link-belt and it took about 4 feet. Harbor Freight sells it in five-foot lengths for about $20.

It made a noticeable reduction in vibration on the tablesaw. I also put it on a drill press and band saw, but if it made a difference on them I can't tell it.

Bill Fields
09-09-2005, 12:56 PM
Corey--


Bought mine at HF for cheap. I got enough to replace all the belts in the shop.

Eliminates most of the vibration and some of the noise.

As to correct length--don't forget, they are fully adjustable in length by "unsnapping" a link.

BILL FIELDS

Les Spencer
09-09-2005, 4:18 PM
Corey,

I have measured belt "length" with a piece of string. Just wrap it around the outside of the belt, mark, and measure the length.

Some pulleys have set screws holding them on also.

Curt Harms
09-09-2005, 4:33 PM
Corey,

I have measured belt "length" with a piece of string. Just wrap it around the outside of the belt, mark, and measure the length.

Some pulleys have set screws holding them on also.

Some pullies have 2 set screws-one on top of the other. Worth looking at?

Corey Hallagan
09-09-2005, 5:22 PM
The string sounds like a good idea. Yes, with the set screw completely removed it doesn't budge. Checked for an additional set screw at an earlier date, no such luck.

Corey

scott spencer
09-09-2005, 8:25 PM
4' should do it Corey. If that's not long enough, I've got a few extra inches floating around....yours if you need it.

I wouldn't change the pulleys unless there's a problem that alignment and the link belt won't take care of.

Corey Hallagan
09-09-2005, 9:55 PM
Thanks Scott for the offer. I will probably just get 5 feet and have the rest for spare or what ever.
Got the puller tonight. I believe it was actually a gear puller by Norman's description as it had 2 hooks. It actually had 4 hooks, 2 larger ones and two smaller ones that you could flip around and use the set you wanted. I used the larger and it attached to the pulley fine and I very gingerly started to crank it. Immediately it started to pull the pulley. I adjusted it and eyeballed it and it was obvious it was out of alignment, about 5/16 out or there abouts. Put the belt back on and much much better on the vibration. It will now pass the nickle test which it would not do before. A link belt should be that much better. Thanks all for your help, especially Norman Hitt! What a great resource this site is. Great bunch of guys! High 5!
Corey

Norman Hitt
09-10-2005, 1:03 AM
Thanks Scott for the offer. I will probably just get 5 feet and have the rest for spare or what ever.
Got the puller tonight. I believe it was actually a gear puller by Norman's description as it had 2 hooks. It actually had 4 hooks, 2 larger ones and two smaller ones that you could flip around and use the set you wanted. I used the larger and it attached to the pulley fine and I very gingerly started to crank it. Immediately it started to pull the pulley. I adjusted it and eyeballed it and it was obvious it was out of alignment, about 5/16 out or there abouts. Put the belt back on and much much better on the vibration. It will now pass the nickle test which it would not do before. A link belt should be that much better. Thanks all for your help, especially Norman Hitt! What a great resource this site is. Great bunch of guys! High 5!
Corey

You are Most Welcome, Cory, just glad to be of help, and I'm sure glad it worked out OK for you. NOW, you can make some sawdust without worrying about vibrating those "Stitches" loose. :D