My Plane Till Progress

[Dan Moening]

Over the past year or so I have become hopelessly addicted to using handtools.
I have acquired planes in antique stores, garage sales, as gifts and a few from our friend Walt Quadrato (http://pages.cthome.net/bcrgraphics/toolindex.html).

So many have found their way home that they now need a place of their own. While I really like the designs and innovation that y'all have shown in your tool cabinets I have decided that a single function cabinet is more to my likeing.

This is a design based on a Plane Till that Dave Anderson of Chester ToolWorks (http://www.chestertoolworks.com/index.htm) built and posted on a couple of other forums. You can view Dave's Plane Till here. (http://www.chestertoolworks.com/images/Finished4.jpg)

In design I decided that one of the requirements for my storage was dust control. Therefore an open cabinet would not suffice. I will be installing a shiplap back, and doors on the front.

However, I like the sloped tray for the longer planes, hinged lids over shelf storage, and cubbies for the smaller planes and so will keep these design elements.

In true neander fashion I begin by cutting wide poplar stock to length:

http://dpmoening.home.comcast.net/images/pt-cut2length.jpg

True up both edges to make the panels:

http://dpmoening.home.comcast.net/images/pt-true2edges.jpg

Once glued, thickness and flatten:

http://dpmoening.home.comcast.net/images/pt-makeflat.jpg

continued...

[Dan Moening]

The carcass is dovetailed together for strength {and looks}:

http://dpmoening.home.comcast.net/images/pt-dt-cut.jpg

http://dpmoening.home.comcast.net/images/pt-dt-chop.jpg

http://dpmoening.home.comcast.net/images/pt-dt-mark.jpg

Using my Bob Smalser style coping saw to remove waste:
http://dpmoening.home.comcast.net/images/pt-dt-saw.jpg

continued...

[Dan Moening]

All the dadoes {except the cubbie dividers} are cut by hand:
Saw kerfs to delimit width {and if lucky, depth}

http://dpmoening.home.comcast.net/images/pt-dado-howto1.jpg

Chisel to rough depth to remove bulk:
http://dpmoening.home.comcast.net/images/pt-dado-howto2.jpg

http://dpmoening.home.comcast.net/images/pt-dado-howto3.jpg

Clean up bottom with router plane (thanks Walt):
http://dpmoening.home.comcast.net/images/pt-dado-howto4.jpg

The main divider is housed in a 3/4" dado so I was able to use a #39 3/4 handplane:
http://dpmoening.home.comcast.net/images/pt-dado-howto5.jpg

A shot of some of the dados:
http://dpmoening.home.comcast.net/images/pt-dado-final.jpg

And here it is dry fit together, cork installed in the cubbies, and finish applied to the interior {easier now than when assembled}:

http://dpmoening.home.comcast.net/images/ptill-dryfit1.jpg

http://dpmoening.home.comcast.net/images/ptill-dryfit2.jpg

Now all I need to do is :
-Install the hinged trays.
-Resaw and install the shiplap back.
-Make and install the doors.

Shouldn't take too long. :rolleyes:

Stay tuned...

Dan.

[Larry Reimer]

Dan, thanks for showing your progress. I'm anxiously waiting to see all those planes in their new home. I do have a couple of "questions". The link you provided to Dave Anderson's plane till did not take me to any pictures. How come there's no dog holes in your workbench? Thank you.

[Jon Olson]

Dan,

Awesome post. I love the detail in you pics and the hand tool work is very cool. Looking forward to further posts and the final product.

Jon

[Jim Young]

Excellent post. This is why I like this site.

[Dan Moening]

This has been a truly enjoyable undertaking. Well, except maybe fitting all the dividers between the cubbies. :p

I hope to have made alot more progress by the first of next week.

Larry,
My bench was inherited from my Father when he passed away a few years ago. He was primarily a powertool user and used the bench as more of an assembly table. It does need some dogholes. And a twin-screw end vise. And... :D

[Dennis McDonaugh]

Dan, you da Man! Your till looks great.

[Scott Raasch]

Wow Dan, that is just awesome!!!! Both the product and the process.

Since I've turned more towards hand tools, it just seems like the only way it should be done. :) I sure hope my wife sees this - she's got hand planes all over the place in the shop. I don't complain though, because she also keeps them really sharp. :) :) :) It would just be nice not to have them collecting dust when not in use.

Can't wait to see the finished product.

BTW, one way to control the depth on the dados when you're using the backsaw to cut the initial lines is to use two C-clamps to hold a thin strip of wood on each side of the blade set to the correct depth - kind of a make-do stair saw. Saw that tip in a book.

[Bob Noles]

Dan,


WOW... Thanks ever so much for that post. I have saved this thread as a favorite. I believe your most excellent pictorial has just taught me more about woodworking than any book I have ever read.

I believe you just greased the slope and I am picking up speed. That is such an exciting project and your craftsmanship is second to none.

[Alan Turner]

GReat project, approached correctly for the purpose.

[Joe Blankshain]

One of the best threads I have seen since I have been here....and maybe before that even.

[Philip Edwards]

Great work, Dan!

Look forward to seeing the completed project,
Phil

[Bob Winkler]

Excellent post and project. Thanks for sharing the details- I'm sure that many of us learned a lot.

Bob

[Ed Breen]

Thanks Dan,

I've been wondering what to do with the longer irons, and seeing your excellent work and pictures has put me on the right path.
Ed

[Dave Anderson NH]

You're coming along really well with the project Dan. It will finish up quite nicely based on the work you've done so far. I would suggest using piano hinges for the sloped lids which lift. They give much better support than just a pair of hinges. Please keep us up to date with your progress.

[Dan Moening]

Thank you for all the kind words, gentlemen!

Piano hinges and handles purchased for the hinged trays.

While I wait for the stain to dry I need a bit of assistance in the design of the doors. The following pictures are a mock up of how I intend to build the doors. 2" stiles, 2" top rail, 2 1/2" bottom rail. The middle rail is 1 3/4". The panels will be veneered, and surrounded by a 1/4" inlay. These details are non-negotiable. ;)

I need help in placing the middle rail.

The first picture has the middle rail placed such that the 2 panel fields approximate the golden mean {21x13, 8.5x13}:

http://dpmoening.home.comcast.net/images/pt-door1.jpg

This second picture the middle rail was placed by eye:
http://dpmoening.home.comcast.net/images/pt-door2.jpg

I find the difference to be subtle but dramatic.

Which do you like best, and why?

[Alan Turner]

What a wonderful thread. It is hard to fight with 1:1.618, IMHO. But, I might make the rails a bit heavier than the stiles. 2 3/8 - 1 7/8 or so. This is such a personal opinion that I am hesitant to suggest it, but that has never stopped me before.

[Dan Moening]

Alan,

Thanks, I realize it's a personal aesthetic, but I do value the eye of fellow woodworkers.

As it turns out I do have a problem; the veneer isn't as wide as I remembered.

So here is another mockup with 3/4" molding to account the difference.

I may try mocking up with wider stiles tomorrow morning, as its something I would have to cut {I had 2" stock laying around :p }.

http://dpmoening.home.comcast.net/images/pt-door3.jpg

I appreciate all the help!

[Jerry Palmer]

Great job and a very nice bench you inherited. Be real hard to punch dog holes in that.

BTW: Is that one of those elusive Norse Woodsmith backsaws? :D

[Dan Moening]

Is that one of those elusive Norse Woodsmith backsaws?

Affirmative!

Type 1 even. :D

The bench does have its shortcomings; but it would be hard to make any changes. Planing stops, battens, and any number of other workarounds will have to suffice until I have room for a "custom" bench of my own.