6" Rockwell Delta Jointer

[Brian Akers]

So I'm picking up a 6" Rockwell Delta Jointer for $100. Seems to be in decent condition. Jointer prices seem to be all over the place... I've read the Rockwell era was decent so here's to hoping!
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[Myk Rian]

The older Delta/Rockwells are the best. You did good.

[Robyn Horton]

I have the same one does a great job . Got a Byrd head for it quite awhile ago which makes it even better .

[Bruce Page]

Good price for a good jointer. Congrats

[Brian Akers]

I figure even if it needs blades, for $100 I'm still doing pretty good.

[Bill Orbine]

You even got the mobile base, too!?! This jointer was made in the day before Delta made junk..... so yes! You've done good.

[Bill White]

Ahhhh. I fondly remember the day when Delta was the good stuff. Ya done good.
Bill

[Allan Speers]

Those are nice little jointers. I have a slightly earlier model, but basically the same. Incredibly well-made & accurate. Great fence.

One thing though - A lot of these are found with 1/2 HP motors. Mine did, and it seemed a little underpowered for face- jointing hard Maple & such. If yours is also 1/2 HP, you might consider upping that to at least 3/4 HP.

[Brian Akers]

Those are nice little jointers. I have a slightly earlier model, but basically the same. Incredibly well-made & accurate. Great fence.

One thing though - A lot of these are found with 1/2 HP motors. Mine did, and it seemed a little underpowered for face- jointing hard Maple & such. If yours is also 1/2 HP, you might consider upping that to at least 3/4 HP.

Thanks for the incite! Unfortunately the rolling bas was not included but it wasn't a deal breaker. I picked it up today and for a smaller machine I was suprised how heavy it was. The knives are still nice and sharp. The head doesn't move all that freely if I turn it manually but I'm not sure what is normal. Either way, for $100 I feel it will be a great starter for me.

[Allan Speers]

Thanks for the incite! Unfortunately the rolling bas was not included but it wasn't a deal breaker. I picked it up today and for a smaller machine I was suprised how heavy it was. The knives are still nice and sharp. The head doesn't move all that freely if I turn it manually but I'm not sure what is normal. Either way, for $100 I feel it will be a great starter for me.


It should. Either your motor is frozen or, more likely, you need new bearings.

You still got a nice jointer for a decent price.

[Brian Akers]

It should. Either your motor is frozen or, more likely, you need new bearings.

You still got a nice jointer for a decent price.

It definitely works, we turned it on while I was there. I'll turn it on again and listen to it when I turn it off. I'm not too concerned about the bearings, looks fairly straight forward to change out.

[Rick Johnston]

My neighbor has one of these that he wants to give me. I've been holding out for an 8" but the price is right and I don't have a lot of space.
The guard has been broken off. I can see where it was brazed and that didn't hold. He has the guard and an extra cutter head. The guard is stored somewhere - so I didn't actually see it.
I'd assume that I could weld that guard on with a MIG welder and likely have it hold?????

He said the motor nameplate is 115/220. Don't know the HP, but I'm going to check that based on comments from a previous poster. I'd probably rewire from 220 V to save either wiring a new receptacle or using an extension cord.

Brian do you still have the ability to take several up close pics of that base???

[Brian Akers]

My neighbor has one of these that he wants to give me. I've been holding out for an 8" but the price is right and I don't have a lot of space.
The guard has been broken off. I can see where it was brazed and that didn't hold. He has the guard and an extra cutter head. The guard is stored somewhere - so I didn't actually see it.
I'd assume that I could weld that guard on with a MIG welder and likely have it hold?????

He said the motor nameplate is 115/220. Don't know the HP, but I'm going to check that based on comments from a previous poster. I'd probably rewire from 220 V to save either wiring a new receptacle or using an extension cord.

Brian do you still have the ability to take several up close pics of that base???

Sure thing. I'll post some up when I get home.

[Bob Vaughan]

The 37-220 jointer with an enclosed stand (stock 37-225) listed in 1975 for $405.00. The motor was about another c-note back then. Playing the inflation game, that $500.00 list price in 1975 would be close to a list price of $2200.00 today. That should at least give a good build quality level comparison to what's available today.

[Brian Akers]

Just now getting into this thing. Glad to ser the motor is 3/4 hp!
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[Brian Akers]

What do you guys think about the spin on the head?
https://youtu.be/13T9kVsHd_c

[M Toupin]

The bearings are dry, there should be some resistance due to the grease. Cost should be less than $15 for both and a hour of your time. Bearings are wear items, they need to be replaced ever 20 years or so.

Mike

[Brian Akers]

The bearings are dry, there should be some resistance due to the grease. Cost should be less than $15 for both and a hour of your time. Bearings are wear items, they need to be replaced ever 20 years or so.

Mike

So how do I figure out the build date on mine. Before 65 or so, they used 2 slightly different ones. After that they were the same. Serial number is fn-3996 made in Pittsburgh.

[M Toupin]

Serial number is fn-3996 made in Pittsburgh.

Very end of 1968

Mike

[Brian Akers]

Very end of 1968

Mike

Awesom, Thanks!

[Brian Akers]

Ok another question: I've got the cutter head out. I've got a puller ready but how do I get the bearing retainers off? Use the puller on it as well. Thought I would ask before I damage something.
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[Myk Rian]

You get the bearing retainers off with a heat gun or hair dryer. They slide right off. Get them nice and warm.

[Brian Akers]

Ok cool. Got those off but my puller is too big... guess HF or amazon here I come.

[Rick Johnston]

Not to hijack Brian's post.......Here is the jointer that my neighbor is going to give me that I made reference to in an earlier post witin this thread.
The blade guard has been broken off and is gone. It was attempted to be repaired by brazing - that was 30 years ago prior to my neighbors ownership.
He does have an extra cutter head. (only one blade)

It's very sharp and I know he has used it.
A 3/4 hp 115/220 motor. Currently wired for 220.
No blade guard is a little scary.
I did find at vintagemachinery.org the manual. In there they show this model with the steel frame. I'd guess that was a cheaper unit than a cast iron frame.
In the manual they talk about whetting the knives by stroking a stone across the knives. Another method is described as jointing the knives by doing it with the cutter head revolving. That sounds risky/scary.
Comments welcomed.

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[M Toupin]

Nice little 4" jointer from 1968. It looks well cared for and you have all the original parts save the porkchop guard. The cast iron bases were from an earlier era, the steel base you have replaced them. Don't sweat honing the blades it's not necessary.

Without knowing when the bearings were last changed I'd swap them out. Bearings are wear items, if you wait till they go bad then you risk the bearing spinning on the shaft and destroying the head. Never could understand why someone would risk that for $15 or less of bearings considering a new head would cost many times that if you can even find one but to each their own.

As far as the guard; put up a BOYD request (the owwm equivalent of the "wanted" adds) or look on Ebay. They are fairly common so it shouldn't be too difficult to find one and shouldn't be very expensive. Other than that put it to work. Had one for many years, they are fine jointers.

Mike

[Brian Akers]

My bearings came in today! Ideas on pressing these in without an actual press?

[M Toupin]

Short answer is Heat & Cold. Check out the video below for the basic principle but keep in mind that's a big bearing and the shaft is room temp. You can do the same thing without special bearing heaters etc. Put the shaft in the freezer for a couple of hours and then find an old fashioned incandescent bulb, preferably 75-100 watts. Place the bearing on top of the bulb and let it heat for about 5min. Once you bearing is good and warm pull the shaft out of the freezer and drop the hot bearing on. It'll slide right on, no muss no fuss. Just make sure you wear leather gloves, the bearing will be HOT! And make sure the shaft is clean with no burrs. You're looking for a temp of around 200ish. Take a damp paper towel and touch it to the bearing. If it sizzles it's ready.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=2o6tB4H04Mw
(https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=2o6tB4H04Mw)
Mike

[Brian Akers]

Short answer is Heat & Cold. Check out the video below for the basic principle but keep in mind that's a big bearing and the shaft is room temp. You can do the same thing without special bearing heaters etc. Put the shaft in the freezer for a couple of hours and then find an old fashioned incandescent bulb, preferably 75-100 watts. Place the bearing on top of the bulb and let it heat for about 5min. Once you bearing is good and warm pull the shaft out of the freezer and drop the hot bearing on. It'll slide right on, no muss no fuss. Just make sure you wear leather gloves, the bearing will be HOT! And make sure the shaft is clean with no burrs. You're looking for a temp of around 200ish. Take a damp paper towel and touch it to the bearing. If it sizzles it's ready.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=2o6tB4H04Mw
(https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=2o6tB4H04Mw)
Mike

Awesome! Thanks Mike! I'll put the head in the freezer tonight and put them on in the morning.
Favorite line in that video: "machinery is always talking to you"

[Simon Dupay]

go over to owwm.com lots of info over there

[Brian Akers]

Thanks Simon!

Couple of more questions:
For those that have used the same jointer, what did you do about dust collection?
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Also the pully on the motor is a little wobbly. The post on the motor is dead straight so it's just the pully. Is this acceptable wobble or need a new pully?
https://youtu.be/m_ycS4gs9NE

[M Toupin]

Yea, no... if the motor shaft is in good shape then the pulley bore is wallowed out. Replace it unless you like your joiner doing the jig.

If you want to hook up DC get one of these (http://www.grizzly.com/products/4-Angle-Dust-Port/D4239). Lots of places sell them.

Mike

[Myk Rian]

go over to owwm.com lots of info over there


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