Delta 50-850 Dust Collector

[William Parks]

This is kind of a gloat as I just bought this used 3 month old DC with a 1 micron bag a garbage can with one of those molded plastic chip sparators, and a remote switching unit from PSI Woodworking all for $150. Sure beats the little Jet 650 I've been using for a couple of years. However the 4" intakes on the DC connected to the 4" fittings on the chip separator just don't feed the bulldog; there is such a loss of suction even though every connection/ fitting is sealed tight.

My question.... Since I need just 1 main line about 12'-15' long has anyone had success in modifying this DC by removing the dual 4" intakes and replacing it with a single 5" or 6" intake. The plate that holds the "Y" is screwed on to the impeller base so I'm thinking one could remove that plate and replace it with a larger intake but not sure with what/how? I would probably eliminate any chip separator all together to maximize my air flow although the thoughts of a cyclone separator would be nice so long as I didn't loose to much suction at the far end.

Suggestions or ideas would be most appreciated.

[Bob Dodge]

Hi William,

Your dc-850 has enormous potential. Congratulations on a smart buy.

Check out the cfm ratings of the dc's in this test. You'll see that the 850 beat all of the 2hp dc's, except the Jet 1200, which had a 12" impeller, and twin filters. That version of the 850 (there have been 3 versions), had an 11" impeller as I recollect. The reason both of those rated so highly, was the porting. Both had 6" intakes, and 6" blower outlets, to run to the bag-tree. That's a very free-breathing design.

http://www.rd.com/americanwoodworker/toolguide/TT_DustCollection.pdf

Your dc may have a 12" impeller, but unfortunately, that version added a 5" restriction collar, tack-welded to the inside of the 6" inlet. All of that is in behind the double 4" wye. Remove that wye and take a look inside the 6" inlet. Measure it too, and get back to me. Some even had 4" collars I'm told, I've only seen 5".

I'll get back to you tomorrow evening, and we'll make that dc of yours REALLY shine.:D

Bob

PS. Does your dc have a single filter up top, and plastic bag on the bottom?

[Steve Roxberg]

Bob,

My 50-850 had the restrictor plate 5" that you mentioned. I cut it out, but still have the 4" Y's on for now.

I'd like to hear your tips as well. I have lots of 6" pipe but haven't hooked any of it up yet.

[William Parks]

Bob,

Now I see why this sucker doesn't suck. Pulled the wye and there is a 4" restrictor in there. So I suspect the first order of business is remove that restrictor plate and open up that passage.

And yes... my DC is the one with the single filter up top and a plastic bag at the bottom. After reading the AW article, I will probably upgared to a 1 micron bottom bag.

William

P.S. Thanks for helping me with this. The thought of making this machine even more productive has me stoked especially since I couldn't justify a cyclone in my small hobby shop.

[Mike Wilkins]

I have the same DC in my shop, located in an outside attached shed to free up valuable shop space. I left the Y fitting on the machine; but to attach it to the fan through the wall, I installed a 6" HVAC pipe, sealed it like crazy with silicone and clamps.
This set-up works fine, but I am seriously considering installing one of the pleated canister filters from Penn State. This is supposed to really increase the CFM's and allow the use of disposal plastic bags instead of the PITA method of removing the lower bag and emptying it when full.
I would be interested in hearing from anyone who has done this to see if it is worth the expense/trouble.
Good luck and watch those fingers.

[Bob Dodge]

Hi Mike,

Read this thread before you decide to put a cartridge filter on your dc. I can show you many more like this that I've seen over the last few years.

Bob

Moderator removed link to another public forum - - TOS violation.

[Bob Dodge]

OK William, Steve, and Mike,

Let's take a good close look at your dc's. First, we can look at the motor nameplates. I think you'll all see the letters "CONT" where it says DUTY-CYCLE. That means your motors are rated for "Continuous" duty-cycle operation. That's a rare feature in that class of dc. Some of the General Internationals, are also continuous duty-cycle rated.

I believe all of you have manual thermal overload protection as well.

You should all remove those double 4" wyes, to expose the 6" inlet. This will allow the use of 6" pipe.

Some of you will have 11" impellers, some maybe 11 1/2", or even 12".

You may all have a single filter, with a plastic lower bag. Replacing those lower bags with a free-breathing 1 micron filter, will really help your dc to shine. If your top bag-filter is rated 2 microns, it's actually the same as the 1 micron filter. They just renamed it after they went with the single-filter designs. That's because the single filter had to filter twice as much air as the twin filters did. The more air you move through the filter, the lower the final filtration spec will be. Luckily, Delta's filters aren't expensive. Quality is excellant for that class of dc and price-point.

Now, those of you with restriction collars are probably wondering why the manufacturer would install that collar. Why deliberately restrict airflow? Well, it has to do with brake-horsepower produced. Manufacturers have no control over how an end-user utilizes his or her dc. The dc may be outside for example, with no filters, and a duct that is too large in diameter for the dc's motor. You need SOME restriction. That collar guarantees restriction, reducing the risk of costly warranty repairs.

As long as you replace the resistance with ducting and filters, you should be fine. Your manual thermal overload protection, will be your guardian angel to some extent. The resistance will now be useable to your benefit.

The 12" impeller version, with twin filters, should flow roughly 1025 cfm; the 11 1/2" version, about 950-960 cfm; and the 11" will flow 895 cfm with a short 6" test-pipe.

You all could run 6" pipe from the blower inlet, to your ceiling duct, and perhaps even your first drop. Try to use long-radius turns if possible. The 12" impeller version, may even allow you to go to a second or third drop.

You may also want to consider using your ducting horizontally along the wall, at blower inlet height. This will reduce the number of elbows, as well as the up and down pipes. Not only will you get stronger airflow because of the lower resistance, you'll also save money. Not a bad combination wouldn't you say?

I had typed up a very detailed duct plan for you, but I lost it when a kitten stepped on the power switch on my UPS. I had to re-write all of this. I'll get back to you on that in the morning. It's quite late here.

By the time we're done, I'm certain each of you will see your dcs' in a much different light. That 850 is one of the most hot-rodable dc's out there, and it's all due to the full 6" porting.

All the best, Bob