Kirk (KC) Constable
09-07-2005, 4:50 PM
I've finally oiled up the sideboard that's taken entirely too long... :(
http://www.kcwoodworks.net/sidebd12.jpg
I struggled for two weeks trying to decide what to do with the 'top'...and against the advice of my two most trusted consultants (LOML and Tommy Skaggs), I went with the plate rack thingy anyway because I like it. To me, this is what will set it apart from your everyday sideboard. :)
As you look at the top, the panel has an endcap (fake breadboard) on each end. These pieces extend beyond the main panel 7/8". The stiles at the side of the plate rack sit flush on the top at the back of the endcap, and the lower rail of the plate rack extends below, and will be screwed into the back of the main panel of the top. I'll also put a screw at the front of the side support 'corbels' from underneath the top.
The panel of the plate rack is 12 pieces, 1/2" thick. I wasn't comfortable cutting a tongue and groove on this, becasue I figured I'd break the tongue on 8 of the 12 before I got it togther...so I cut a 3/16 groove in all the pieces, chamfered all the edges to get the 'vee' effect, and used full length splines to assemble the panel. The 12 pieces are 'sort of' bookmatched. Counting from the left, 1 and 12 are mates, 2 and 11, etc...leading to the most strking two, 6 and 7 in the middle. A small detail that will probably be hidden by plates...but I feel good about it anyway. :D
http://www.kcwoodworks.net/sidebd14.jpg
I cut a double plate groove (vee) in the shelf, and a single groove in the top itself. The little 'caps' on the end of the shelf are so I didn't have to look at the grooves coming out the end...and I didn't like the way a 'stopped' cut looked. The side support pieces of the plate rack cover the ends of the groove in the top.
Basic machine-cut dovetail drawer box, 3 sides mesquite with 1/2" Russian birch ply for the bottoms. The drawer fronts (all five) are from the same piece of wood. I ripped 3-1/2" off the width and resawed/bookmatched those pieces for the bottom drawers, and used the other piece to resaw/bookmatch the top row. Finsihed thickness of the fronts is something around 3/8".
http://www.kcwoodworks.net/sidebd16.jpg
Here's a shot of the 'guts'...South American mesquite and Russian birch ply for the dust panels. Drawer slides are Liberty full-extension, and I'm happy with them. The slides aren't on the drawers in these pics, but when they are I've got a very even gap all around, something well less than 1/16". The drawer fronts are all chamfered, and by design, this chamfer will be 'proud' of the face frame when closed. Cheap (not!) Mission pulls from Woodcraft. Rockler has the same thing, but they're an antique brass color and I prefer this black.
http://www.kcwoodworks.net/sidebd17.jpg
I cut too much off the tenon on the shelf for the mortise. After measuring several times. Anyhoo, I wedged those little pieces of ebony in there to fill the hole. Kinda looks like I did it purpose...so I'm gonna call it a 'save'. :)
And for those that need help visualizing, here's one from this morning with some plates and stiff just thrown up there. I took this one to help convince Jean I might've been right this time. :p
http://www.kcwoodworks.net/sidebd9.jpg
As usual, In a week or so I'll follow the natural WATCO with Sherwood Dull-Rubbed effect lacquer.
Thanks for looking!
http://www.kcwoodworks.net/sidebd12.jpg
I struggled for two weeks trying to decide what to do with the 'top'...and against the advice of my two most trusted consultants (LOML and Tommy Skaggs), I went with the plate rack thingy anyway because I like it. To me, this is what will set it apart from your everyday sideboard. :)
As you look at the top, the panel has an endcap (fake breadboard) on each end. These pieces extend beyond the main panel 7/8". The stiles at the side of the plate rack sit flush on the top at the back of the endcap, and the lower rail of the plate rack extends below, and will be screwed into the back of the main panel of the top. I'll also put a screw at the front of the side support 'corbels' from underneath the top.
The panel of the plate rack is 12 pieces, 1/2" thick. I wasn't comfortable cutting a tongue and groove on this, becasue I figured I'd break the tongue on 8 of the 12 before I got it togther...so I cut a 3/16 groove in all the pieces, chamfered all the edges to get the 'vee' effect, and used full length splines to assemble the panel. The 12 pieces are 'sort of' bookmatched. Counting from the left, 1 and 12 are mates, 2 and 11, etc...leading to the most strking two, 6 and 7 in the middle. A small detail that will probably be hidden by plates...but I feel good about it anyway. :D
http://www.kcwoodworks.net/sidebd14.jpg
I cut a double plate groove (vee) in the shelf, and a single groove in the top itself. The little 'caps' on the end of the shelf are so I didn't have to look at the grooves coming out the end...and I didn't like the way a 'stopped' cut looked. The side support pieces of the plate rack cover the ends of the groove in the top.
Basic machine-cut dovetail drawer box, 3 sides mesquite with 1/2" Russian birch ply for the bottoms. The drawer fronts (all five) are from the same piece of wood. I ripped 3-1/2" off the width and resawed/bookmatched those pieces for the bottom drawers, and used the other piece to resaw/bookmatch the top row. Finsihed thickness of the fronts is something around 3/8".
http://www.kcwoodworks.net/sidebd16.jpg
Here's a shot of the 'guts'...South American mesquite and Russian birch ply for the dust panels. Drawer slides are Liberty full-extension, and I'm happy with them. The slides aren't on the drawers in these pics, but when they are I've got a very even gap all around, something well less than 1/16". The drawer fronts are all chamfered, and by design, this chamfer will be 'proud' of the face frame when closed. Cheap (not!) Mission pulls from Woodcraft. Rockler has the same thing, but they're an antique brass color and I prefer this black.
http://www.kcwoodworks.net/sidebd17.jpg
I cut too much off the tenon on the shelf for the mortise. After measuring several times. Anyhoo, I wedged those little pieces of ebony in there to fill the hole. Kinda looks like I did it purpose...so I'm gonna call it a 'save'. :)
And for those that need help visualizing, here's one from this morning with some plates and stiff just thrown up there. I took this one to help convince Jean I might've been right this time. :p
http://www.kcwoodworks.net/sidebd9.jpg
As usual, In a week or so I'll follow the natural WATCO with Sherwood Dull-Rubbed effect lacquer.
Thanks for looking!