Garage Cabinets Without a Back?

[Terry Rogan]

I'm starting the design for installing some full wall garage cabinets in my garage.

The garage is fully finished inside already (sheetrock), so I'm wondering what the consensus is for constructing the cabinets using the sheetrock itself as the back wall of the cabinets.

I could use horizontal ply cross pieces along the top and centers of the backs of the cabinets for firm attachment to the studs behind the sheetrock, and these full height cabinets will sit on bases on the floor.

So, use existing sheetrock for the inside backs of the cabinets... or do I really need to make "full" cabinets by facing the back of them with ply?
One extra note; I will be hanging doors on all of the installed cabinets.

[Mel Fulks]

I think the value to you and any future owner is greatly enhanced by having backs. So much easier to move and reconfigure. Cheap material for them is fine.

[Terry Rogan]

So I really don't need backs for strength, but for cosmetics?
In that case, I would imagine that 1/4" ply would be fine?

[Jim Becker]

Backs "can" add strength, but if you're anchoring the cabinetry to the wall, the work will likely be strong enough, depending on how you build it. You'll still need some cross members to insure there's no racking while building, however, but those elements will give you something to actually fasten to the wall. The downside to open back, outside of potentially appearance, is that the sheet rock isn't hugely durable when stuff is slammed against it. If that's a consideration, at least use a 1/4" hardboard back (can even be beaded for additional appearance) to provide a "harder" back surface for things to rest against.

[Wakahisa Shinta]

I build two 4' W x 8' H x 22" D garage cabinets. The backs are 1/2" birch ply, rabbeted into the top, bottom, and sides with 1/8" reveal (un-even walls). Then at the very top, a 4" x 1/2" x 4' strip of poplar to anchor the cabinets to the wall and studs. The plywood back helped squared up the cabinets and provided a lot of strength. Face frame provided the strength for the front. The middle shelf is permanently attached to the sides for strength. They are heavy cabinets, but there was almost no racking when they were stood up and moved into position. We have loaded a lot of stuffs into these cabinets and they don't flex, bend, or sag.

Some family members had their built without back. They look like shelves, not cabinets. I didn't like it.

[Tom Dent]

Make sure walls are straight and plum

[David Eisenhauer]

Wakahisha says it. The rabbet-inserted back makes and keeps a cabinet square. A 1/4" ply back is plenty good, with some thicker "hanging strips" added (usually) top and bottom inside of the cabinet to screw through into studs. A face frame added to the front side of a cabinet completes the permanent strength/ square deal. When I glue up a cabinet, I insert the sides and shelves into their respective rabbets and dados, clamp (or shoot nails if it is paint grade) to hold it together while rolling over to show the back side, then glue in the back into its recess before checking for square. If the material was cut square and the rabbets/dados were cut square, it is rare that the cabinet needs correcting for out-of-square during the glue up. To me, it is one of those things that, while it may not be absolutely required, makes the whole process so much easier and more efficient to fab while not adding much cost. Same for face frames added to the front.

[Rich Engelhardt]

IMHO - the question isn't use a back or not use a back, it's recess the back in a rabbet or not.

[Wakahisa Shinta]

One of my mobile cabinet stands for tools were constructed by the lazy me. I didn't want to setup the dado blades. The 1/2" ply back was cut square, but was not rabbeted, just glue and nailed. Afterward, I kept looking at the edge of the back...Ugh! Never again will I do that!

[Lee Schierer]

So I really don't need backs for strength, but for cosmetics?
In that case, I would imagine that 1/4" ply would be fine?

I wouldn't build cabinets without a back. The back adds strength and prevent racking. Unless your cabinet sides line up with studs, you will be trying to anchor them to drywall. 1/4" ply with added thickness where hanging bolts or french cleats will be added should be sufficient. Anything you put in the cabinets can potential strike the dry wall and damage it. If you ever move a cabinet you'll have a mess to clean up on the drywall.

[jack duren]

Back on or off doesn't matter as long as you have nailers,cleats in the back.

[Warren Wilson]

I think it might come down to -- are you buiding shelves or cabinets?

[Peter Quinn]

I wouldn't build cabinets without backs. I like 1/2" backs for big cabinets, in any even I never count on 1/4" backs as a fastening point. You don't want a large cabinet coming over on you. I do rabbited backs for finished ends in finished space, I usually do flush backs for utility stuff and blind cabs in the middle of a run. Screws, no glue. with 1/2" backs you don't need a hanging strip. Lots of ways to do it, they all involve backs.

[Jim Dwight]

My base cabinets have all drawers and no backs. They sit on concrete so there is a separate base of PT 2x4s. There is a strip of 3/4 plywood around 6 inches wide at the top that helps with racking and is screwed to studs. It is pocket screwed to the cabinet. There is no back. I have hardwood on pieces of conduit in doubled 2x4s in the walls above the saws on these base cabinets. So no uppers on that wall. The other wall will get one large open cabinet for storage of often used tools and supplies. It will probably get a luan back. Maybe with a hanger strip since the luan is pretty flimsy. But I may also just have the hanger strips and no back. My walls are painted OSB so they are pretty sturdy.

I've built cabinets for a kitchette with no back. I didn't like the appearance until I caulked the hanger strips to the wall. Then they looked fine to me. They saw only light use but the walls didn't get beat up. The probably I see with the back is the light 5mm plywood backs will help square the piece but aren't strong enough for hanging. 1/2 inch or thicker plywood is probably fine for hanging but add significant weight and eliminate some usable depth. I like 3/4 hanger strips at the top and bottom and then the back is not necessary.

[Dave Arnett]

Back on or off doesn't matter as long as you have nailers,cleats in the back.

Yep!

I always put a 1/4" back on mine, but it's not absolutely necessary. Hangrail/cleats are necessary.

Who slams stuff into their cabinets so hard that they're going to tear up the back anyway?....plywood or sheetrock

[keith micinski]

I think it might come down to -- are you buiding shelves or cabinets?

This, everyone keeps acting like backs are a must for the structural integrity of "cabinet". I'm pretty sure shelves had made it a long time with no back. It doesn't sound like these are anything he plans on moving or making mobile. So the back would add no structural value whatsoever if the " cabinet" is attached to the wall. Also 50 percent of the kitchens I rip out anymore are built in the 50's and 60's and they are all built in place "boxes" with no back and they have held up just fine.

[Ellen Benkin]

My kitchen cabinets -- built in 1929 -- don't have backs and have obviously lasted a LONG time with heavy loads. But if I were building cabinets I would install a 1/4" back just to square things.

[Jerry Olexa]

I wouldn't build cabinets without a back. The back adds strength and prevent racking. Unless your cabinet sides line up with studs, you will be trying to anchor them to drywall. 1/4" ply with added thickness where hanging bolts or french cleats will be added should be sufficient. Anything you put in the cabinets can potential strike the dry wall and damage it. If you ever move a cabinet you'll have a mess to clean up on the drywall.

Agree with Lee...Good advice

[Rob Damon]

For me it would depend on the span of the shelves, 2-3' they would be self supporting by the sides, greater than 3', having a back would allow center support for the shelves for heavier loading. For really heavy loads, 1/2" ply with dados for each shelf.

[Robert Engel]

If the walls aren't perfectly straight you may have issues.

I would at least install nailing cleats 4" wide top and bottom in a rabbet in the back.

Might be a good case for doing a single, multiple built up cab like the good ole days.

[Rod Sheridan]

I'm starting the design for installing some full wall garage cabinets in my garage.

The garage is fully finished inside already (sheetrock), so I'm wondering what the consensus is for constructing the cabinets using the sheetrock itself as the back wall of the cabinets.

I could use horizontal ply cross pieces along the top and centers of the backs of the cabinets for firm attachment to the studs behind the sheetrock, and these full height cabinets will sit on bases on the floor.

So, use existing sheetrock for the inside backs of the cabinets... or do I really need to make "full" cabinets by facing the back of them with ply?
One extra note; I will be hanging doors on all of the installed cabinets.

Hi. I've made them with a 4 inch wide cleat inset at the top and bottom to prevent racking during handling.

Once the cabinet is attached to the wall, racking protection isn't required.

The back isn't necessary however if you want one for cosmetic purposes that's fine also.................Regards, Rod.

[Keith Weber]

Your mileage may vary, but to me, a cabinet without a back looks cheap and poorly built.

[David Ashley]

Most RV have no back cabinets, but the wall isn't sheetrock either its already a panel type board or some sort of fancy product to look nice. I assume they skip it to save on weight and wasted space.