So is Waterlox a tung oil finish or varnish?

[Rob Price]

I've used Sutherlands polymerized tung oil finish on several projects, and been very happy with it, but it is fairly pricey and shipping nearly doubles the cost. I don't have anywhere near bye to buy it. And it goes bad quickly. A fellow woodworking friend suggested Waterlox as an alternative. There's a place 20 min away where I can buy some. Their website sells it as an oil finish, soaking into the wood, no sanding between finishes, easy recoat down the road like an oil finish, but I also noticed they recommend a brush and leave it process more like varnish. They do say that each coat blends with the prior, like lacquer I guess. But I've been reading around here and it looks like most folks treat it like a varnish.

Here's the deal- I don't want a plastic layer over the wood. I very much like the look and feel of the oil finish. Enough sheen to look nice, velvety smooth to the hand, and it feels like wood, not plastic. Plus it's much easier to repair and recoat down the road compared to a film. With the oil I just wipe it down with mineral spirits and apply the next coat with a fine abrasive pad.

So what is it? Film forming varnish or oil? Is it more like poly or lacquer? When I do use a film finish I use lacquer- I do like the look/feel of a rubbed out lacquer finish as well. It's also easy to repair. If it behaves more like lacquer I could handle that. I don't want a polyurethane finish.

Thanks!

[Prashun Patel]

It is a varnish.

[Jerry Thompson]

I have never had Sutherland's tung oil go bad. I always use a can of duster to spray into the can just before I close the lid.

[Ryan Mooney]

Its a phenolic resin varnish. As for behavior imho its closer to lacquer than poly but still somewhere in the middle. If you give it sufficient time it will get pretty hard, more like a lacquer and you can buff it out quite nicely. It will soak up into the wood some more than most poly products. I like to wipe it on in thin coats like a wiping varnish, I know others have good luck with the brush on thicker plan but like you I prefer the thinner coating and can get a pretty decent look with ~3 coats of waterlox (I lightly sand between them as well to knock back fuzz and nibs). It will self level some so if you want to do one thicker coat that can work pretty well as well. The thin coats are also more forgiving about dust nibs :D

I do have to say that its impressively tough. I used it on a set of beer taster trays for a friends pub ~4~ years ago and even with daily use, hot sanitizing dips and plenty of spilled beer they look pretty good still (the gloss is starting to fade a little in spots but overall.. pretty good).

[Howard Acheson]

Waterlox is an oil based varnish where the varnish is made using tung oil and a phenolic resin rather than alkyd. resin. Most varnishes are made with linseed oil and alkyd resin because linseed oil and alkyd resin is cheaper.

Other than using tung oil verses linseed oil, it is a fairly standard varnish. All oil based varnishes contain a resin and a drying oil. It should more accurately be called a "Tung Oil / Phenolic Resin Vanish"

[Prashun Patel]

It is a varnish that builds layers. Each coat does not fuse with the previous.
If you use Waterlox original sealer finish, it is pre thinned. That product can be brushed or wiped on. The other Waterlox varnishes are full strength and must be brushed or thinned in order to wipe them.

It behaves and applies more like poly than lacquer.

And it also goes bad pretty quickly if your storage vessel is less that half full.

If u truly want a non building finish, you can mix a couple table spoons of boiled linseed oil into the original sealer finish. That will create an oil varnish that can be wiped on and wiped off without any build. I believe that is the look u are describing. It looks like an oil finish but with more durability.

[Prashun Patel]

You can also use watco Danish oil if you want a true oil varnish. It is probably available in your closest big box store.

[John TenEyck]

It's varnish. When you cook an oil and a resin together you get varnish. You could call it an oil based varnish, but it no longer contains any unreacted oil.

John

[Art Mann]

I must have read several hundred times that polyurethane varnish looks "plasticy" but I have used gallons of wipe on in years gone by and none of my projects look the least bit like plastic. I have seen the look but it is always either cheap particle board and wood furniture or someone who doesn't know anything about finishing and lays on too many thick coats. I have heard that Waterlox looks better because the resin is phenolic. Some time I will try it but the kind of projects I build now days work best with sprayed lacquer. The worst plasticy look I have ever seen comes from certain water based imitation lacquers that have a cold bluish look.

[Rob Price]

Thanks for the feedback. I will be doing a kitchen table when I finish my current project, I may try Waterlox on the table for durability sake. I was at my friend's house and looked at one of his pieces with it. He applied it like an oil, wiped on, let it sit, and wiped off x3 costs and got very good results without that plastic/poly look.

[John TenEyck]

Just so you are aware, wiping varnishes are meant to wipe on and NOT wipe off. If you want durability you need to create a film. You won't get a plastic look if you wipe on thin coats, and enough to create a film which, in most cases, is at least 4 coats. All you have to do is look at some of Prashun's results to see how great Waterlox can look.

John

[Rob Price]

I get that. Just pointing out he was able to get good results.

[Prashun Patel]

Beware of using Waterlox like that. If you let it sit for any amount of time if can get gummy. If you want to use it like that I would add a small amount of boiled linseed oil to it. That will allow you to apply it like your friend with less frustration.