Seeking a Jig Saw with a Depth Adjustment Feature

[Frank Pellow]

A couple of repair jobs that I recently completed could have benn a LOT easier if I had a jig saw that allowed me to adjust the depth of cut.

If anyone knows of a jig saw that supports such a feature, please let me know.

[Bruce Shiverdecker]

Hi Frank:

I'm having a problem understanding how you would do what you ask.

My understanding of a "jig" saw is a hand held "Skil" type saw. The blade on this type is recriprical (Moving up and down completely through the wood), so you can't set an up an down depth of cut.

I probably missed something here. If you could post a picture of the saw you're talking about, it might help me help you.

Thanks,
Bruce

[Tim Sproul]

Jigsaws are unsafe to do a blind cut. The cut needs to be through.

If you're cutting 3/4 material in place and only have another 1/2 inch clearance underneath....you should go get a shorter blade for your jigsaw. I have no idea about Bosch but Festool makes a decent range in lengths of jigsaw blades.

[Frank Pellow]

Hi Frank:

I'm having a problem understanding how you would do what you ask.

My understanding of a "jig" saw is a hand held "Skil" type saw. The blade on this type is recriprical (Moving up and down completely through the wood), so you can't set an up an down depth of cut.

I probably missed something here. If you could post a picture of the saw you're talking about, it might help me help you.

Thanks,
Bruce
I don't want it to move completely through the wood. I have managed to adjust the depth to some degree (and not cut all the way through the wood) by using blades of different lengths, but I would like finer adjustment of depth than I can get by fiddeling around this way. Another use is to cut through a facing board (eg. facia which is already installed) without cutting into the supporting wood undernerath

[Don Baer]

Just put another piece of wood between the saw and the board you want to cut. If you want a finer adjustment use a thinner board.

[Jamie Buxton]

I don't know of a jigsaw with a depth adjustment. When I've used a jigsaw with a blade shorter than the workpiece thickness, it does cut, but there's a lot of pounding. Each time the blade moves forward on the up-cut, it must jab its way back down through un-cut wood. It seems like one of those things you can tolerate for some short time, but not something you'd design a tool to do.

[Frank Pellow]

Just put another piece of wood between the saw and the board you want to cut. If you want a finer adjustment use a thinner board.
I have done that, but it is a time consuming thing to set up and somewhat error prone to use (at least it is for me).

[Frank Pellow]

I don't know of a jigsaw with a depth adjustment. When I've used a jigsaw with a blade shorter than the workpiece thickness, it does cut, but there's a lot of pounding. Each time the blade moves forward on the up-cut, it must jab its way back down through un-cut wood. It seems like one of those things you can tolerate for some short time, but not something you'd design a tool to do.
I don't find this to be a problem with my Festool PS2 jig saw.

[Steve Stube]

To do similar work I have used a drill and hole saw (once started into the wood the center drill can be pulled back or taken out completely so it doesn't go into the base wood) to remove the bulk of material and then trim out with a chisel.

[Frank Pellow]

To do similar work I have used a drill and hole saw (once started into the wood the center drill can be pulled back or taken out completely so it doesn't go into the base wood) to remove the bulk of material and then trim out with a chisel.
I have done this too. But, I think that there has to be an easier way to do the job.

[Andy Hoyt]

Could you have made your "cut" with a router?

[Frank Pellow]

Could you have made your "cut" with a router?
That would work sometimes but a router base is much bigger than a jig saw base so it is difficult to get into tight places, A router is also heavier, noiser, and harder to control freehand than a jig saw.

[Andy Hoyt]

That would work sometimes but a router base is much bigger than a jig saw base so it is difficult to get into tight places, A router is also heavier, noiser, and harder to control freehand than a jig saw.

Laminate trimmers are pretty friendly.

[Lee DeRaud]

That would work sometimes but a router base is much bigger than a jig saw base so it is difficult to get into tight places, A router is also heavier, noiser, and harder to control freehand than a jig saw.Laminate trimmer or router base on a Dremel maybe?

[John Lucas]

Frank,
This thread seems to have taken a "What's My Line" type of turn. I have the PS2 too (not as in Desmond) and I would think you would be best off using a slow speed to start and tilting to max and ease in and then vary the bade length. The new Festool Trion so much faster for blade changes. Some blades will help you make this cut much faster...their new blades are very aggressive. The new blade guard also keeps the blade in the slot much better.
There is also a Bosch blade that has a normal front but a flat and wide back...almost looks like a grout cleaner...might work.

Makita 5090DW 3-3/8" Cordless Circular Saw Kit

That is the Makita portable hand saw that might really do you well. I have one and it has good depth control and cuts a very fine kerf.

http://www.amazon.com/exec/obidos/search-handle-url/index%3Dblended%26field-keywords%3Dmakita%20cordless%20saw%26results-process%3Ddefault%26dispatch%3Dsearch%26store-name%3Dall-product-search/ref%3Dpd%5Fsl%5Faw%5Ftops-1%5Ftools%5F7193765%5F1/002-7144151-8403250

[Richard Wolf]

I'm with you Frank, a lot of the Bosch blades will cut blind holes. I have a stack of masonite pieces the same size as my shoe on the jig saw and select how many I need to cut thru sub flooring. I had planned on duct tapeing them but just holding them works fine.

Richard

[Frank Chaffee]

Frank,
I would break off or grind off a blade, so that its length in the extended position from the saw would be equal to or slightly less than the thickness of the board I wished to cut.
Wear safety glasses (a given), and cut slowly. Experiment with the adjustable pendulum stroke angle of your saw.
Frank

[Frank Chaffee]

Frank,
I would also grind the blade so that the body is shorter than the cutting edge teeth.
Frank

[John Weber]

Sounds like a job for a Rotozip.

John

[Frank Pellow]

I'm with you Frank, a lot of the Bosch blades will cut blind holes. I have a stack of masonite pieces the same size as my shoe on the jig saw and select how many I need to cut thru sub flooring. I had planned on duct tapeing them but just holding them works fine.

Richard
Thanks Richard, I think that I will give your suggestion a try. Most times I have needed to do this, it was on a vertical surface and I think that I will need the duct tape for that.

[Frank Pellow]

Last week I had to cut a section of rotten wood out of a laminated beam that was attempting to hold up my cabin. I did mange to find a blade that cut to the correct depth. I attach 3 pictures.

(1) me making the cut

(2) the beam with the material removed

(3) the beam with the replacement wood in the section that I cut out

[Phil Phelps]

I posted a pic a couple of years ago. It is called a Cutawl Saw. Like the pattern makers use to cut stacked fabric. They cut from 1/8" to 1" in depth. And, have different blades for different material. I'll have to find, or reshoot the picture and post it later. Send me a check and I'll buy you one here in Dallas. $795.00. I'll hold my breath 'till the check arrives :D

[Frank Pellow]

Thanks Phil, I found the thread very interesting. For the rest of you, here is a link http://www.sawmillcreek.org/showthread.php?t=1076 to Phils thread.

I am aftraid though that the price you quote is a little :D more than I am willing to pay. Also, the supported depth is not enough for me and someone commneted that the saw is heavy and should be used on a table.

[Phil Phelps]

Thanks Phil, I found the thread very interesting. For the rest of you, here is a link http://www.sawmillcreek.org/showthread.php?t=1076 to Phils thread.

I am aftraid though that the price you quote is a little :D more than I am willing to pay. Also, the supported depth is not enough for me and someone commneted that the saw is heavy and should be used on a table.
I misunderstood your needs, Frank. The Cutawl wouldn't help one bit :o

[Harry Goodwin]

My son is a locksmith and often has the same desire to cut one side of a metal door but not trash the other side. His final answer was in purchasing one with the desired debth of cut. These do vary from one machine to another. HG

[Niels J. Larsen]

Hmm, it's hard to tell in the picture how much space you really have, but wouldn't you be able to use e.g. a Festool ATF plunge-cut saw for the majority of the cut ?

/Niels

[Frank Pellow]

Hmm, it's hard to tell in the picture how much space you really have, but wouldn't you be able to use e.g. a Festool ATF plunge-cut saw for the majority of the cut ?

/Niels
In the application shown in the picture, I could have used my a Festool ATF plunge-cut saw for about 90 percent of the cuts. But:


that still leaves 10%

in other applications I have had, the circular saw would not have worked at all or certainly would not have handled 90% of the job.

I find it much more difficult to control my circular saw than my jig saw freehand and on vertical surfaces

My cicular saw was at home (980 kilometres away) when I was doing the work

[Jim Bills]

I read all the responses, and can't believe no one suggested the Multimaster. One of the most unbelievable tools in my box. You can make plunge cuts with ease, and with total control. The most helpful remodeling tool around. Yes it's a fairly expensive tool, but after one job you will forget the cost. Ask around, you'll see.

Jim

[Steve Clardy]

I'd just cut the blade off with a grinder.

[Frank Pellow]

I'd just cut the blade off with a grinder.
Steve, that would probably do it, but I need several different depths so I would need the fiddle around with a bunch of blades, mark their sizes, and organize them. It would be so much easier if I could simply adjust muy saw.

[Frank Pellow]

I read all the responses, and can't believe no one suggested the Multimaster. One of the most unbelievable tools in my box. You can make plunge cuts with ease, and with total control. The most helpful remodeling tool around. Yes it's a fairly expensive tool, but after one job you will forget the cost. Ask around, you'll see.

Jim
I thought of this tool as a sander that supported a few extra gizmos. If the saw gizmo, really does let me adjust the sdepth of cut, I might end up buying the tool just for that gizmo.

I will attempt to find out more. Jim, If you can tell me more about the tool as a saw I would appreciate it. For example what is the range of supported depths?

[Jim Bills]

I thought of this tool as a sander that supported a few extra gizmos. If the saw gizmo, really does let me adjust the sdepth of cut, I might end up buying the tool just for that gizmo.

I will attempt to find out more. Jim, If you can tell me more about the tool as a saw I would appreciate it. For example what is the range of supported depths?

Frank, I am at work, but the best I can remember, the depth of cut is probably about 1-1/2", and it will indeed plunge straight into the work. I actually hardly ever use the sanding function, short life and expensive paper. The woodcutting blades are way overpriced also, but this tool will do things no other portable tool will do, that simple. The first time you pick it up and turn it on, you will know this is an industrial quality tool, you'll see what I mean.

Jim

[Jim Bills]

Frank, I am at work, but the best I can remember, the depth of cut is probably about 1-1/2", and it will indeed plunge straight into the work. I actually hardly ever use the sanding function, short life and expensive paper. The woodcutting blades are way overpriced also, but this tool will do things no other portable tool will do, that simple. The first time you pick it up and turn it on, you will know this is an industrial quality tool, you'll see what I mean.

Jim

Frank, I might add, you control the depth of cut manually. I am sure you could adapt a block of wood, or something that would actually limit the depth of cut, but there is nothing available from Fein (that I know of) that would provide an adjustable depth of cut function. Hope the information helps.

Jim

[Steve Clardy]

Steve, that would probably do it, but I need several different depths so I would need the fiddle around with a bunch of blades, mark their sizes, and organize them. It would be so much easier if I could simply adjust muy saw.

Sure. Understand that. My thinking was, a one time deal.

Steve:)

[Scott Coffelt]

What about rigging up a chain saw with a box that would only allow for a certain depth of cut. Then make a rail for the box to ride on to keep it straight. My BIL is doing something similar in having to plunge 30" deep into beams for hidden construction method. He made a jig which supports the saw and then a track for the saw to be plunged into the beam. Could work fine.

[Scott Coffelt]

Another method would be with a spiral bit and a router, again building a jig to support the router and also allow for it to slide sideways.

[Ron Stefanelli]

Frank,
The tool you are looking for is a Fein Multimaster.

Ron Stefanelli

[Frank Pellow]

Frank,
The tool you are looking for is a Fein Multimaster.

Ron Stefanelli
Ron, that is what Jim Bills siggested a few posts above in this thread. But, as I understand his answer to a follow-up question from me, the Fein does not really giver you a depth adjustment. My understaning is that what the Multimaster gives you is the ability to plung the blade and I already have that with my Festool PS2 jigsaw.

Please correct me if my understanding about the Fein Multimaster is incorrect.

[Frank Pellow]

What about rigging up a chain saw with a box that would only allow for a certain depth of cut. Then make a rail for the box to ride on to keep it straight. My BIL is doing something similar in having to plunge 30" deep into beams for hidden construction method. He made a jig which supports the saw and then a track for the saw to be plunged into the beam. Could work fine.
Scott, a chain saw is away too big for the types of job that I want to apply a depth adjustable jig saw to.

[Frank Pellow]

Another method would be with a spiral bit and a router, again building a jig to support the router and also allow for it to slide sideways.
Andy Hoyt suggested a router in post 11 in this thread. I think that a router would be much harder to control than a jig saw, so your suggestion of a jig for the router would help in some applications. Andy's answer to my control problem was a laminate trimmer and that might work for me. I don't have laminate trimmer and have never used one, but I will see if I can borrow or rent one and give it a try.

[Frank Pellow]

Sure. Understand that. My thinking was, a one time deal.

Steve:)
Still, it might be the best solution that there is (until Festool provides a depth control on the spiffy new 2006 jig saw :D )

[Jim Bills]

Ron, that is what Jim Bills siggested a few posts above in this thread. But, as I understand his answer to a follow-up question from me, the Fein does not really giver you a depth adjustment. My understaning is that what the Multimaster gives you is the ability to plung the blade and I already have that with my Festool PS2 jigsaw.

Please correct me if my understanding about the Fein Multimaster is incorrect.

Frank, You are correct about the lack of actual depth adjustment, but you will find no comparison between a plunge cut with a jigsaw, and the control you have with the Fein Multimaster. You can feel when you break through the first board, then with the slightest angle proceed in the direction you want to travel. I have been told the control is accurate enough to allow cutting a plaster cast off a broken limb (on a person). Not sure I would want to do that, but it is probably possible.

[Chris Giles]

The Fein multimaster is the same type of saw surgeons use cutting bone in joint replacements where a circular saw or other type will not work. I have been planning to purchase one for some time for the same reasons you have mentioned. I just need a big enough reason to cough up the dough. As already stated, this is not a cheap tool. I believe a piece of masking tape wrapped around the blade and a careful hand are all the depth control you will need.

[Frank Pellow]

This weekend, I had another instance where I wanted to plunge a jig saw to a specific depth. I was replacing some rotten plywoodwood around the chimney on our roof. I used Steve Clardies suggest and ground down a blade (mixed wood and metal cutting) so that it cut to a depth of 20 mm. It worked like a charm (but I would still like it if a manuafacturer provided the "plunge to a specific depth option).

Three pictures are attached.