Updating our fireplace - NEED HELP

[Jon Olson]

Ok all you masons and carpenders---

I have a fireplace in need of updating. This is what my wife and i would like to do and we need SMC's help on the how...

We like to remove the railroad tie mantel and replace it with a new mantel piece...how is the mantel attached and how do I get it off??

Next I like to remove the brick that protrudes off the the face of the fireplace. we are thinking of adding slate to the surface of the brick and therefore need a surface without these protrusions.

ANY THOUGHTS???

Jon

[Jim Marshall]

Jon, you will have to pry the mantel off even if it is nailed or glued on. To remove the brick, I use a brick chisel or any old chisel you don't plan to use again. Start breaking the mortor joints lose from the top and work your way down. It really isn't hard but does involve some work.

[Rob Russell]

After you have the wood pried off, I'd consider cutting the old brick off. Enclose the area in plastic, just enough so you can get in. Wear a respirator. Rent a large saw and put a masonry blade on it.

The saw will give a nice even cut across the face of the brick and give you a level surface to put shims against.

Just a thought.

Rob

[Dan Oelke]

This is one of those messy - but fun - jobs. Get a BFH (Big Fine Hammer), crowbar, and a cold chisel. A brick hammer is really nice for this type of work. Pry the mantel off - as you start to pry you'll find where and how it is anchored. At that point you can either keep prying, or get the saws-all out to cut the nails. Bricks can be then removed. What you see is just a single layer of brick that do not support the chimney above so they can be safely removed. You wil damage the wall around the fireplace some - plan on some time with drywall compound later on.

If you just plan on putting a thin layer of slate (tile?) on you can probably leave most of the brick in place, and just break off the protruding brick. After breaking that off you can use motar to smooth over everything. To break the bricks along a line you want to use a chisel or the pointed end of a brick hammer. Several small sharp raps in a line will weaken the brick along that line. A couple of hits on the backside and then a couple more on the face and it will eventually break away along the line you are hitting on. You could also get an angle grinder and masonry wheels to cut the brick - but I would never recommend that inside a house. It spews a lot of insanely fine and abrasive dust. I have used this to cut brick/block/etc but only outside away from buildings. Cutting them this way gives a nice smooth surface, and more control - but since you are going to be troweling over with motar to set slate you don't need to worry about being accurate at this point.

[Andy Hoyt]

After you have the wood pried off, I'd consider cutting the old brick off. Enclose the area in plastic, just enough so you can get in. Wear a respirator. Rent a large saw and put a masonry blade on it.

The saw will give a nice even cut across the face of the brick and give you a level surface to put shims against.

Just a thought.

Rob

The "clean room" concept is good, but I dunno about the sawing part. He'll have issues when he makes the return into the firebox. I think it would be quicker and far less messy to just bust it all off in bigger chunks. That will allow him to mortar an appropriate transition piece in place between the firebox and his new slate. Plus, leaving those sawn bricks at the firebox might prevent a safety issue. Yeah I know there's fireproof caulk, but why tempt fate? You might wwant to ask creeker Dale Thompson about that fire safety point.

[Todd Burch]

The big question is... is the whole chimney brick? I suspect not due to the configuration of brick and it's apparent surface-mounting.

I've done this before (http://www.burchwoodusa.com/miscpix/Remodel/fireplaceremodel.html). Unfortunately, those bricks are painted, so stoning over them would require you to remove the paint. Just take them all out. My tool of choice would be a hammer with safety glasses. It will be messy and somewhat dusty, but will clean up fast. No way, no how, who I use a saw. You would have to clean-room off the rest of the house, and have a respirator, and take breaks. Cold mortar and bricks break too easily to have to use a saw. You'll be surprised how easy, and quick, they come off.

Once all the bricks are off, you'll have a clean slate.

If you can't figure out how to get the mantle off, get a floor jack and a section of 2X4 and jack it up and off.

Todd

[Jim Dunn]

Jon have you looked into cultured stone? Not smooth but depending on the look your going for it's neat and easy to put up.

[Jon Olson]

These ideas are exactly what I was looking for, thanks all. Thats why SMC is so great.

If anybody else has a comment, keep them coming.

Jon

[Jim Dunn]

Had to change the above comment to read "relatively easy". Striking the joints was a critical point and I asked for and got help from a pro.

[Ed Breen]

Jon,

Let me strongly second against using a saw to cut the brick. I had to cut into the slab in the kitchen to run a line to an island. My bright idea was to put a diamond blade in my grinder. Several seconds and I could'
nt even see my hands, much less anything else. What a mess!
Ed

[Ernie Nyvall]

Just one thing. Before you pry the mantle, trace around it with a knife where it meets the wall. This way, the paint and the glue if there is any wont rip the paper off the sheetrock halfway up the wall.

Ernie