Which Shoulder Plane?

[Sam Chambers]

I've recently seen the light about hand planes and scrapers. As much as I like my power tools, sometimes the right tool is a hand tool. During a recent project, I discovered how enjoyable it is to use a card scraper, my Stanley #5, Type 11 (that I've had for several years, but hadn't even sharpened), and a cheap Buck Brothers block plane with a nice, sharp iron.

During that same project, I had a problem that would have been much easier to fix if I'd had a shoulder plane. SWMBO decided to get me one for our anniversary, and she's even nice enough to let me pick it out!

I've been looking around the 'net, and I think I've narrowed my search. But it seems to me that there are positives and negatives to each:

1. Stanley #92 - Versatile (converts to a chisel plane) and relatively inexpensive ($100), but maybe not the best quality.

2. Veritas/Lee Valley Medium Shoulder Plane - Reasonably priced ($149) and innovative, but not as versatile.

3. Clifton #3110 Shoulder Plane - Versatile (converts to a bullnose and a chisel plane) and high quality, but pricey ($250).

4. Lie-Nielsen medium Shoulder Plane - High quality, but higer price ($175), and not as versatile.


I really like the idea of multi-use tools, so I'm drawn to the Stanley and the Clifton. Obviously, there's a huge price difference, and probably an equal difference in quality. Can anyone relate some personal experience with the Stanley #92? Are there other manufacturers that I've not considered?

Thanks!

[Steve Wargo]

I have the Clifton 420 and wouldn't trade it for anything. I also have a LN rabbetting block plane and use it for wide tenons, but the 420 is my go to shoulder plane. Smaller than the large LN. Please note that the medium shoulder plane was not available from LN 6 years ago when I bought my Clifton, or I may have been swayed in my decision making. Still a very nice plane.

[Mike Wenzloff]

Hi Sam,

The Stanley can be a nice tool if you get a vintage one, which drives the price up as well as the amount of fiddling you may need to do (flattening and ensuring you have sides square to the bottom).

The Clifton is simply a nice tool both to look at and use in comparison to the Stanley.

The LV and LN ones are better tools, imo. The "lack" of a bullnose ability is not a great loss. BN planes, of which I have one smaller one (similar, though a vintage version of the LV bullnose), are difficult to operate with accuracy. A chisel can be used to clean up a stopped groove as easily. That said, they sometimes are handy. For the odd occassion I use one, I have an old Preston bullnose.

Still no easy choice from my answer. I have used them all and don't own any any longer. My preference in shoulder planes are the little LN 1/2" infill and a 100+ year old AT Murray infill (1 1/8" x 9").

Mike

[Mark Singer]

It is hard to beat the LV Medium shoulder...I have that a Clifton and the big LN

[Robert Tarr]

I have and love the large LV shoulder plane. I think it is a better plane and is much easier to hold/use. I love my LN 140 (and I have a bunch of other LN tools), but your question is about shoulder planes. I think the added features and comfort in hand, make the LV the best choice.

I also have the LN large chisel plane and can say that I don't use it much at all. The same effect can be had with a sharp chisel or by taking the blade out of your #5 or block plane and laying it flat on a rebate etc. to clean out a corner.

Hope that helps.

Robert

[Tim Sproul]

If you cut tenon shoulders a bit short, then I find a flat file to be faster, more accurate and easier to use than a shoulder plane. And there is no sharpening to be done, no fettling. No depth adjustment. Nothing to do other than take down the shoulder.

[Michael Gabbay]

I like the look and feel of the classics so I bought the LN large shoulder plane last Spring. It feels very nice in my hands. The medium one looks to be a real nice plane as well. The machining on this plane is incredible. You can't see the seam for the mouth adjustment. You can't go wrong with the LN IMHO.

Mike

[Wendell Wilkerson]

I have the LV medium shoulder plane. It is one of the most used planes in my shop. My feeling is that you want a dedicated tool. It seems to me that comprises are made when you try to make a tool do too many things and it ends up only doing any one of the jobs O.K.

Wendell

[Eric in Denver]

I've got the Clifton 3110. I've only used it as a shoulder plane, so I would recommend either the 3110 or the LN. Both are great tools!
E

[Mark Stutz]

I looked at the new Stanley #92. Seemed like a good "project plane" to me. I suspect a vintage one would do fine but obviuosly pricier. I opted for the LV medium one (large one not yet out). This was a great value. I had never used a shoulder plane before, but this one worked great out of the box...and even better after I adjusted it a little and honed the iron. I'm very happy with mine, though I have never used the others.

Mark

[Philip Edwards]

Sam

Don't forget to take a look at the HNT Gordon planes-they are reasonably priced and beautifully built! I have a 3/4 and 1 1/4 inch shoulder planes and they work great (as well as being SO pretty:rolleyes: ). The blade can be reversed and the planes used as scrapers too, as you like multi-function tools.
Cheers
Philly
http://www.philsville.co.uk/images/hand%20planes/gordon%20shoulder.jpg

[Sam Chambers]

Thanks for the great advice, guys. I'm thinking I may get the Lee Valley/Veritas medium. That'll save me enough money to get their cabinet scraper, too!

[Michael Pfau]

Sam, I use the LN rabbet plane. It cuts shoulders great very versitle. Its a low angle plane, that I love. Someday I might get the LN shoulder, cause I love planes, but this one does everything a shoulder plane does, and more. Good luck on your choice!

[Michael Cody]

You ought to consider for a moment anyway -- building your own. Shoulder planes are probably the easiest built, either all wooden, partial infill (like the Gordon planes) or pure infill. You can buy a Shepard Kit (http://www.shepherdtool.com/New%20Store.htm) for 169$ or finished for 239$ ... You can build you own wooden one for just the cost of an iron -- using some oak or maple scrap an maybe a nice piece of IPE from the local wood store for a sole. Lots of satisfaction there ... You think using them is addicting -- try building them:)

If you want to buy check out Knight ToolWorks (http://www.knight-toolworks.com/graphics/shoulder.jpg) for all wooden planes -- great tools, great prices.

[Pam Niedermayer]

...Shoulder planes are probably the easiest built, either all wooden, partial infill (like the Gordon planes) or pure infill....

I have to disagree with this statement. First, scrub planes are easier by far, no requirements to keep anything in line with anything else, all refinements optional.

Second, on shoulder planes it's very tricky to get just the right width blade to be just slightly larger than the plane thickness.

Pam

[Derek Cohen]

I agree with Pam. The shoulder plane is a precision tool, with not much leeway for error. I have built a few planes, but I am still working my way up to one of these.

Sam, of the 3/4" shoulder planes mentioned here, I own three: a vintage Stanley #92 (which is one of my oldest, purchased along with vintage #93), a HNT Gordon (birthday present), and a LV Medium (reviewed for a magazine).

The Stanley #92 is well made (mine IS a vintage version) and cuts cleanly and accurately. If you had one and nothing else, you would be happy and not explore further. After using the LV Medium one feature became very obvious - removing (for honing) and replacing the blade is a pig of a job with the Stanley. One must dissemble the whole plane to do so. With the LV you just remove the blade and you are able to maintain the settings.

The LV is a sweet plane with many precision settings that make it easier to set up accurately. It is comfortable to hold - more so than the Stanley - and has a higher heft than one realises. This is a terrific shoulder plane, better than the Stanley.

The HNT Gordon is different. High angle bevel down blade. Almost too pretty to use. Very comfortable to hold. Cuts as well as the best (in spite of one's expectation that it should not do so). It is a little more tricky to adjust, simply because it uses a mallet rather than a mechanical adjuster to do so (however the technique really does only take minutes to learn). It is cheaper than the LV, if price is an issue.

Regards from Perth

Derek

[Michael Cody]

So picky Pam ;) but you are right, making a scrub plane is easier than a shoulder plane.. but as to making the size just right, nice thing about a wooden plane is you can trim it up to fit the blade.

Sam -- for books try:

Making Traditional Wooden Planes by Whelan (http://www.amazon.com/exec/obidos/tg/detail/-/1879335697/ref=pd_sim_1/104-4426966-5980741?%5Fencoding=UTF8&v=glance)

Making and Mastering Planes by Finck (http://www.amazon.com/exec/obidos/tg/detail/-/140272022X/ref=pd_sim_1/104-4426966-5980741?%5Fencoding=UTF8&v=glance)

There is a video by Tod Herli about making Hollows and Rounds (wooden planes for making mouldings, etc) that is excellent and similar in a lot ways to what you do w/a shoulder plane.

If you look at a basic shoulder plane, the design is pretty simple. The best thing is you can spend a few hours and what have you got into it .. a very few$ and some time. You can even make your own blade out of some O1 tool steel, 18" x 1" x 1/8" O1 Flat Stock (http://www1.mscdirect.com/CGI/NNSRIT?PMPXNO=1750484&PMT4NO=1285763) piece is about 9$. If you don't like the results then you can always buy one. Just like fishing, a unsucessful day in the shop is still usually better than a good day at work!

[Mike Wenzloff]

I have to disagree with this statement. First, scrub planes are easier by far, no requirements to keep anything in line with anything else, all refinements optional.
I agree with that...Scrubs gotta be the least exacting plane there is. Maybe an Old Woman's tooth router is there somewhere on the easy list too.

Second, on shoulder planes it's very tricky to get just the right width blade to be just slightly larger than the plane thickness.
Pam
That's why one should always buy the blade first and make the plane to fit it.

Mike