Disston saws -idle chatter

[lowell holmes]

I'm curious how you regard these saws.

I have a nice D-7 10 pt crosscut that I put a new handle on because the factory handle was so ugly. I posted photo's of this saw before.

I also have a D-12 10 pt crosscut that is like new, but old. I will be cleaning it soon. It is sharp, but could be made sharper and I will do that.

When I bought the D-12, the D-12's were regarded by some as being the top of the Disston line. I'm curious if the D-12 is still so highly regarded.

[Ron Bontz]

D-12 or No 12? D-7 or No 7 :) I have some vintage no 12s but I made a couple of saws based on the No 12 because it is one of the few without a lambs tongue I like. Has a good feel to it for me. :)

[lowell holmes]

Looking on the saw plate it is D7 and D12.

Idle curiosity as to whether the D12 is a superior saw, it came to me a bit grungy, but no rust. It appears to have been in stock somewhere. It has an ugly handle like the D7 had.
I really can't see more quality in the 12, it looks pretty much like the 7.

I was looking at it recently and realized I need to polish it up and check it for sharp.

After sharpening the D7 following Ron Herman's video, it is insanely sharp.

It's kind of sad when your interests gravitate towards the saw instead of woodworking.

Oh well, I need to make a document box for my oldest Grand Daughter who is at the university. I think it's time to get busy and cut some of the Sapele that I have set aside for it.

[Chris Hachet]

It is obviously #7 and #12. Idle curiosity as to whether the 12 is a superior saw, it came to me a bit grungy, but no rust. It appears to have been in stock somewhere.

I was looking at it recently and realized I need to polish it up and check it for sharp.

After sharpening the #7 following Ron Herman's video, it is insanely sharp.

It's kind of sad when your interests gravitate towards the saw instead of woodworking.

I need to make a document box for my oldest Grand Daughter who is at the university. I think it's time to get busy and cut ome of the Sapele that I have set aside for it.

Please post pics of your project would love to see it finished!

[lowell holmes]

Ron,
Can you show us the saws you made. I'd love to see them.

[Ron Bontz]

Hmmm.Here you go.
The Sapele with stainless is a 22" rip. 0.035" tooth line and approx. 0.031 back. 8ppi rip.
The big leaf with brass is a reworked saw I made a while back. 20" x 0.035" tooth line with about an 0.032" back. 8ppi xcut. Needs a little more taper, I think.
My 24" and 26" ( still in the works ) is a 0.042" tooth line. Walnut with stainless saw fasteners. In between every thing else, of course. 328591328592

[lowell holmes]

I had forgotten that the 7's and 12's were made prior to 1928. The D7 and D12 were made in 1928. My saws are obviously the D saws. The Disston Institute didn't elaborate on changes made to the saw plates. I have D8 and D23 saws that are good saws, but I prefer my D7 to any other saw I have. I expect the D12 to be really good. The Disston Institute stated that the D7 and D12 saws have closed top handles. I ran into that when I made a new handle for the D7. I just closed the saw slot with a strip of wood and it looks finished.

Ron, your saws are gorgeous. You had shown pictures of them before, but if you elaborated on the source of your inspiration, it blew right by me.

[Stewie Simpson]

Looking on the saw plate it is D7 and D12.

Idle curiosity as to whether the D12 is a superior saw, it came to me a bit grungy, but no rust. It appears to have been in stock somewhere. It has an ugly handle like the D7 had.
I really can't see more quality in the 12, it looks pretty much like the 7.

I was looking at it recently and realized I need to polish it up and check it for sharp.

After sharpening the D7 following Ron Herman's video, it is insanely sharp.

It's kind of sad when your interests gravitate towards the saw instead of woodworking.

Oh well, I need to make a document box for my oldest Grand Daughter who is at the university. I think it's time to get busy and cut some of the Sapele that I have set aside for it.

Lowell. I would appreciate a close up photo of those insanely sharp teeth on your D7.

Stewie;

[Mike Allen1010]

I had forgotten that the 7's and 12's were made prior to 1928. The D7 and D12 were made in 1928.

Lowell your exactly right about the change nomenclature by Disston in 1928. Disston advertising refers to four different grades of steel they used in their saw plates; cast steel in the #7 through the "London Extra Refined Spring Steel" in the #12. In the same way Atkins used "silver steel" and their top-of-the-line 400 series. IMHO the steel in the saw plates in the Disston D-12, D-42, 115 etc. 1928-1945 is among the best and most consistent I've ever used. By this time steel making had progressed from less of an "Art" to more of a "science", particularly during the war years. Although I prefer the pre-1928 hand shaped totes, the Disston 1928 – 1945 saw as I mentioned above, including your D – 12 are fantastic. I encourage you to tune up that D – 12, you won't be disappointed.

Ron, your saws are gorgeous. You had shown pictures of them before, but if you elaborated on the source of your inspiration, it blew right by me.

+1 Ron I drool over your saws every time I see them! I know firsthand that not only are your saws usable art, but every time I use them I can't help but say "ooooh, that's how a hand saw supposed to work"! I'm more familiar with your back saws, and didn't realize that your unbacked saws have taper ground plates – that's awesome! I don't know that there's any other saw makers working today doing that?

Cheers, Mike

[lowell holmes]

[QUOTE=Mike Allen1010;2512457]

I prefer the pre-1928 hand shaped totes, the Disston 1928 – 1945 saw as I mentioned above, including your D – 12 are fantastic. I encourage you to tune up that D – 12, you won't be disappointed.

[QUOTE=Mike Allen1010

I will tune up the D-12.

Stewie commented about my comment about the D-7 being sharp. I checked it today, sawing through some 2" vertical grain fir scrap I have. If you've ever cut vertical grain fir, you know it is a tough stringy wood. That is why we make entrance doors with it.

I started a cut down about 1" and made a pencil mark at the bottom of the cut. Then I made one more full cut (one full stroke) with the saw and found the saw cut a full 1/4". Maybe if others played with this, we could come up with a way of measuring sharpness in a handsaw.

[Niels Cosman]

[QUOTE=Mike Allen1010;2512457]
Maybe if others played with this, we could come up with a way of measuring sharpness in a handsaw.
Around these parts (Boston), we refer to this level of sharpness as "Wicked Shaaahp!"
Any sharper and local vernacular would dictate an additional color-F-ul adjective. :D