Grizzly G0490/G0490X Mobile base question

[Anthony Whitesell]

I am playing with my shop layout and renovation plans. I'm not near my jointer to check. Does anyone know is the lift pedal and the fixed wheels can be reversed? Currently the lift pedal is on the right and the fixed wheel on the left. In my proposed shop layout it would be best if they were swapped (pedal on the left and fixed wheels on the right). Anyone know if this can be done?

[Jebediah Eckert]

I just walked down and looked at mine. I'm sure anything can be done but would definitely need modification and holes drilled etc. It's not meant to swap sides if that what you mean. There are different mounting holes and cutouts for the foot pedal then the wheel side. Also the foot pedal is on the infeed side that has a much longer table then the out feed. If you switch them there may be a balance issue, possibly?

[Anthony Whitesell]

Thank you Jebediah. I'm not interested in adding a project of the magnitude to re-mount the pedal and wheels. I could not remember if there was an option during assembly. I guess not.

[Anthony Whitesell]

I have opted to remove the wheels and pedal from my jointer and add a sub-base on four casters. One issue I have had in the past is the basement floor is not 100% level, so I have had to adjust the leveling feet in the past. I was thinking of using straight line toggle clamps as leveling feet and brakes. Something like https://www.grainger.com/product/DE-STA-CO-Toggle-Clamp-3CXR9 . I was originally planning to use total lock casters. If I go this route, I wouldn't need any brakes on the casters.

Thoughts?

[Bill Space]

Hi,

Seems like if you use those toggle clamps you would still have to make adjustments to them just like you would with leveling feet, if you want four points of contact with the uneven floor...

What do you gain by removing the original wheels and pedal from the jointer? I mean, aside from the option of having four swiveling casters with the sub-base, VS two with the original design?

Bill

[glenn bradley]

I have opted to remove the wheels and pedal from my jointer and add a sub-base on four casters. One issue I have had in the past is the basement floor is not 100% level, so I have had to adjust the leveling feet in the past. I was thinking of using straight line toggle clamps as leveling feet and brakes. Something like https://www.grainger.com/product/DE-STA-CO-Toggle-Clamp-3CXR9 . I was originally planning to use total lock casters. If I go this route, I wouldn't need any brakes on the casters.

Thoughts?


Hi,

Seems like if you use those toggle clamps you would still have to make adjustments to them just like you would with leveling feet, if you want four points of contact with the uneven floor...

What do you gain by removing the original wheels and pedal from the jointer? I mean, aside from the option of having four swiveling casters with the sub-base, VS two with the original design?

Bill

I have the same garage floor issues. I have various "solutions" that all fail in practice since they have to be fiddled with every time I move something. I have fallen back to keeping a composite shim ( a couple bucks for a 10 pack at the borg) on the base and wedge the offending corner. I've been using the same shims for so long I can't even remember.

Anybody who reads my threads knows I love a jig or some other doo-funny for almost any requirement but, sometimes just plain simple wins the day ;-)

[Anthony Whitesell]

As I originally mentioned, the new location of the jointer in my shop now requires a 20-point turn in order to rotate it 90 degrees when I need to joint a board longer than 3'-3 1/2'. I figured out two options. Either redesign the pedal and wheels so they are on the opposite sides (but fear a balance issue since it appears the infeed is heavier than the outfeed end), or make a sub base with four casters.

I would have to make adjustments to the feet, but the push-pull toggle clamps would be easier to adjust than the feet under the jointer.

[Keith Weber]

I don't have that jointer, but just looking at pics of it, I was wondering whole sheet metal part that the wheels connect to (ie. the bottom 4" or so of the base) couldn't be removed and rotated 180°. It would be a smart design if they made it so that you could do that, and the bolt holes lined up. Knowing Grizzly, they probably welded that part onto the base permanently. Just a thought.

I've swapped the fixed/castering wheels on my Snap On toolboxes a couple of times as I've switched shops. Sometimes you just need the castering wheels on the other side to place the cabinet in a confined spot easily.

[Anthony Whitesell]

I don't have that jointer, but just looking at pics of it, I was wondering whole sheet metal part that the wheels connect to (ie. the bottom 4" or so of the base) couldn't be removed and rotated 180°. It would be a smart design if they made it so that you could do that, and the bolt holes lined up. Knowing Grizzly, they probably welded that part onto the base permanently. Just a thought.

I've swapped the fixed/castering wheels on my Snap On toolboxes a couple of times as I've switched shops. Sometimes you just need the castering wheels on the other side to place the cabinet in a confined spot easily.

I glanced at the outside of the jointer to see if that might be a possibility. The problem would be there is no hole for the belt to pass through to get from the base/motor to the cutterhead. If I cut a new hole, the old one would be open in the front. Also the magswitch cables would also come out the front on the opposite end and be too short. I don't know what else may or may not line up within the cabinet. Seems like too many mods to rotate the cabinet. I think it would be more direct to modify the base to swap the wheels and foot pedal. But I'm still leaning towards the sub base and 4 casters instead of modifying a perfectly working jointer.

[Keith Weber]

Anthony, I was actually talking about possibly rotating the bottom 4" or so of the cabinet, not the whole cabinet. The part that is a darker color than the rest of the cabinet. It should be well below the motor. You might be able to rotate that part around if it is not welded to the cabinet above it.

[Anthony Whitesell]

I would have to look, but it is likely welded to the sides and top with only the front and back panels are screwed on. The base came as a single piece in one box with the front and back attached.