Track Saw Purchase

[Frank Yacone]

Folks,

I am saving up to purchase a track saw next year to break down sheet goods. I am currently using a straight edge and circular saw. It does the job, but after one cut the entire workshop is covered in dust, so one upgrade for me is better dust collection. Also, I have a nice table saw, but the sheets are too big for me to break down by myself safely.

I am looking at the following options. I am leaning towards the Makita.

Dewalt: Total = $650
-track saw, short rail, and long rail kit - $615
-pair of track clamps - $35

Makita: Total = $740
-track saw and short rail - $440
-long rail - $260
-pair of track clamps - $40

Festool: Total = $1195
-track saw (TS55 REQ) - $640
-track clamp - $40
-track clamp - $40
-short rail - $130
-long rail - $345

I would love the Festool set, but can't seem to justify the extra $450. I also need to save for a true dust collector (currently using a shop vac), and would like a drum sander.

Do any of these track saws ever go on sale?

[Greg R Bradley]

Your numbers aren't correct for comparison.

The Festool 55 includes a 55" rail so you don't need to buy it. If you are in SoCal, I have an extra new-in-box 118" rail I'm selling for $300.

You mostly don't need to buy track clamps with either the Makita or Festool. I've used a Dewalt but don't recall if it sticks to the material as well as the others. However, if you wish to buy them any of them work on all the rails. Why do you think you need clamps?

I have both a Makita and a Festool TS55 and consider them to be very similar and mostly use them interchangeably. The newest TS55REQ supposedly has a few improvements but not sure I could justify the price.

If you have other Festool items and want to run them off the same cord there is some advantage to the Festool. If you choose the Makita, the stock cord is a bit infuriating as it is too short and permanently attached. Not a problem if you have it and a hose attached to the ceiling above a dedicated cut down table. Otherwise, you may want to change it. The Makita comes with an old style Systainer which are pretty poor compared to the newer T-Lock Systainer that comes with the Festool. If you don't care about Systainers, remove $70 from the price of the Festool since you can sell it instantly for that price.

I would only buy ANY of them on sale. I bought my TS55 when they had a 10% off sale and paid $268 for my Makita (bare saw, no track).

I don't think there is any question that the Makita is the best saw for the price.

[Mike Cutler]

Frank

From time to time, they all do. Believe it or not, even the Festool. I bought my TS75 "on sale" because the systainer it comes in was being changed to a new design. Unless you really need that long Festool rail, you may want to consider two smaller ones, and the connectors. Remember also that the saw ships with a 55" rail, so you could drop $345.00 off the total you have. Those clamps can also be made, easily. They're nothing more than a modified "F" clamp. An hour with a big vise, and an angle grinder, and you'd be set. ;)

One more avenue to explore is the EZ Guide system(s) by Eurekazone.

[Anthony Whitesell]

There was a tracksaw review done in one of the magazines recently (Fine WW or Fine Homebuilding, I think).

My advice. Go play with them. My local Rockler has the Dewalt and the EZSmart. Woodcraft has the Festool, and another local hardware store carried the Makita.

I was looking at the Makita, until I played with it. Then I changed my mind. My choice would be the Dewalt or the Festool. I believe the Dewalt, Makita, Festool (which I know does) and the Triton all have dust collector ports. The EZSmart system (EurekaZone) is a very interesting option. But you provide your own saw, and I could not find a circular saw with a dust collector port.

When you correct the prices on the Festool, you should find it just slightly higher than a comparable Dewalt package. This is the one time the Festool price is far and gone from the competition.

That Makita long rail price is quite a turn off. The long rail costs more than half of the saw and the short rail! Again another reason to look at the Festool (I can't believe I said that) and the Dewalt.

Its too bad Bosch doesn't have a dog in the race. I wonder what their saw would be like. :rolleyes:

[john lawson]

First, I believe you will be happy with any of them. I have the Dewalt and love it, have had it for about 4-5 years and it amazes me what you wind up using it to do that you did not think of before you bought it. And yes, the Dewalt allows you to cut without clamps, the rubber strips on the bottom of the track work well, but I did buy the clamps, and the more expensive the wood, and the later into a project I get, the more often I use the clamps. I also bought the router fixture and I use it as well.

Try this link.

http://www.toolup.com/DeWalt-DWS520CK-Corded-TrackSaw-Kit-with-59-102-Track

[Rich Riddle]

If you are having sticker shock with the Festool, check out the prices of the Mafell unit combination....

http://www.timberwolftools.com/tools/mafell/MAF-MT55cc.html

[Jared Sankovich]

There was a tracksaw review done in one of the magazines recently (Fine WW or Fine Homebuilding, I think).

My advice. Go play with them. My local Rockler has the Dewalt and the EZSmart. Woodcraft has the Festool, and another local hardware store carried the Makita.

I was looking at the Makita, until I played with it. Then I changed my mind. My choice would be the Dewalt or the Festool. I believe the Dewalt, Makita, Festool (which I know does) and the Triton all have dust collector ports. The EZSmart system (EurekaZone) is a very interesting option. But you provide your own saw, and I could not find a circular saw with a dust collector port.

When you correct the prices on the Festool, you should find it just slightly higher than a comparable Dewalt package. This is the one time the Festool price is far and gone from the competition.

That Makita long rail price is quite a turn off. The long rail costs more than half of the saw and the short rail! Again another reason to look at the Festool (I can't believe I said that) and the Dewalt.

Its too bad Bosch doesn't have a dog in the race. I wonder what their saw would be like. :rolleyes:

What about the Makita turned you off?

And bosch Does have a track saw, it's just not easily available in North America

[Frank Yacone]

Thanks for the quick replies.

It doesn't matter to me about the type of sustainer box. The box will end up on shelf either way. Also, I don't have any Festool products, nor am looking into getting any other than the track saw.

Regarding clamps, knowing myself, I will get better piece of mind clamping the track before a cut. I don't mind the extra time it takes, gives me time to catch my mistakes...


Updated the numbers for Festool.

Dewalt: Total = $650
-track saw, short rail, and long rail kit - $615
-pair of track clamps - $35

Makita: Total = $740
-track saw and short rail - $440
-long rail - $260
-pair of track clamps - $40

Festool: Total = $1025 (option 1), $830 (option 2)
-track saw (TS55 REQ), short rail - $640
-pair of track clamps (dewalt or makita) - $40
-long rail (option 1) - $345
-short rail (option 2) - $130
-rail connector (option 2) - $20

Festool Option 2 is getting closer to Makita. A couple of questions on this option. 1) Do you have any alignment issues when setting up the two short rails? 2) I will have a bunch of plywood carcasses to build coming up. How much of a pain is it to have to swap between the long rip cuts and shorter cross cuts when you have only two 55 rails. Do you take the rails apart for the crosscuts? These two concerns are why I am leaning towards needing a short rail and a long rail.

I don't have a big jointer (wish list item), so I will be using the track saw to straight line rip rough lumber in the milling process. Will I have issues with the power and depth of the TS55 vs the Makita on 8/4 stock? I have read mixed reviews.

[Frank Yacone]

There was a tracksaw review done in one of the magazines recently (Fine WW or Fine Homebuilding, I think).

My advice. Go play with them. My local Rockler has the Dewalt and the EZSmart. Woodcraft has the Festool, and another local hardware store carried the Makita.

I was looking at the Makita, until I played with it. Then I changed my mind. My choice would be the Dewalt or the Festool. I believe the Dewalt, Makita, Festool (which I know does) and the Triton all have dust collector ports. The EZSmart system (EurekaZone) is a very interesting option. But you provide your own saw, and I could not find a circular saw with a dust collector port.

When you correct the prices on the Festool, you should find it just slightly higher than a comparable Dewalt package. This is the one time the Festool price is far and gone from the competition.

That Makita long rail price is quite a turn off. The long rail costs more than half of the saw and the short rail! Again another reason to look at the Festool (I can't believe I said that) and the Dewalt.

Its too bad Bosch doesn't have a dog in the race. I wonder what their saw would be like. :rolleyes:

I haven't found a place locally that has the track saws to look at. Don't have a Rockler or Woodcraft nearby. Need to look some more.

[Frank Yacone]

Your numbers aren't correct for comparison.

The Festool 55 includes a 55" rail so you don't need to buy it. If you are in SoCal, I have an extra new-in-box 118" rail I'm selling for $300.

You mostly don't need to buy track clamps with either the Makita or Festool. I've used a Dewalt but don't recall if it sticks to the material as well as the others. However, if you wish to buy them any of them work on all the rails. Why do you think you need clamps?

I have both a Makita and a Festool TS55 and consider them to be very similar and mostly use them interchangeably. The newest TS55REQ supposedly has a few improvements but not sure I could justify the price.

If you have other Festool items and want to run them off the same cord there is some advantage to the Festool. If you choose the Makita, the stock cord is a bit infuriating as it is too short and permanently attached. Not a problem if you have it and a hose attached to the ceiling above a dedicated cut down table. Otherwise, you may want to change it. The Makita comes with an old style Systainer which are pretty poor compared to the newer T-Lock Systainer that comes with the Festool. If you don't care about Systainers, remove $70 from the price of the Festool since you can sell it instantly for that price.

I would only buy ANY of them on sale. I bought my TS55 when they had a 10% off sale and paid $268 for my Makita (bare saw, no track).

I don't think there is any question that the Makita is the best saw for the price.


I think that is what I am after. The best track saw for the price.

[Greg R Bradley]

The Makita doesn't have a riving knife so I would remove that from your list based upon your interest in ripping rough lumber.

The only place I've really noticed the Makita having more power than the Festool is cutting 3 sheets of 3/4" plywood at a time. I have zero experience using them on rough lumber but understand the TS75 does that better. It comes with a 75" rail in the price.

I personally wouldn't want a Dewalt. It uses a weird track that doesn't allow parallel guides, being squared with a big framing square, and only has 55" and 102" tracks available. Dewalt doesn't make it but buys it from another company. Stanley Black and Decker has a history of abandoning every single product that they have ever handled this way.

Joining tracks is better than nothing but a poor substitute for a longer track. Plan on having a long straight edge and being very careful if you have to move it to another sheet of plywood.

[Jamie Buxton]

Being cheap, I tried using two shorter Festool tracks. It just does not work. There's no inherent alignment mechanism, so the joined track may or may not be straight. And if you move the joined track, the two parts may not stay straight. Needless to say, a non-straight track is pretty useless. I eventually fronted the money to buy the long track. Painful, but really the only way to go.

IIRC, folks have reported that the Festool saw can run on the track from one of the other manufacturers. I don't remember which one. But maybe you could save a few bucks that way.

But if you do buy a long track, it'd be nice to buy it from local store. If the track arrives non-straight, it is easier to return than if you have to UPS it back. You could even test the track for straightness before you pay for it.

[Rich Riddle]

I purchased the Festool TS75 specifically so there would be no issues with going through 8/4. It's more expensive and a bit heavier though.

[Anthony Whitesell]

What about the Makita turned you off?

And bosch Does have a track saw, it's just not easily available in North America

It was a while ago when I looked. I would have to start my research over to know for sure. As I recall there were three things.

1) Scoring depth stop had to be enabled/disabled each use
2) Metric guides/settings
3) Cost of long track.

I ran the same numbers as Frank. I do not recall the Festool with the long track being more than the Makita.

I was also interested in the router guide, but could not find information on which routers were compatible with each track system.

[Allan Speers]

4: Eurekazone.


Gets my vote.

[Bob Grier]

You can buy Festool track clamps 48957 for $43 or less per pair which is what I did. They work fine.

I recently got a track saw due to inability to single hand plywood on the table saw any longer. I usually am cutting plywood for cabinets or shelves and The 55" track that comes with the 55REQ seems to be enough for me. I use the table saw too but first use the track saw. I like the Festool but would probably like others also, if I tried them. I use my little shop vac for dust collection from the saw. I needed an adapter to fit between the vacuum hose and the saw dust outlet on the saw. This can be expensive or not. I got the cheap tapered soft rubber off brand and cut the part off that I did not need. The adapter is 3 or 4 round steps of different diameters. One fit the saw and one fit my hose. I removed (cut off) the ones I didn't need.

[Jared Sankovich]

It was a while ago when I looked. I would have to start my research over to know for sure. As I recall there were three things.

1) Scoring depth stop had to be enabled/disabled each use
2) Metric guides/settings
3) Cost of long track.

I ran the same numbers as Frank. I do not recall the Festool with the long track being more than the Makita.

I was also interested in the router guide, but could not find information on which routers were compatible with each track system.

Aren't the 1&2 the same on the festool, and the Festool track is the most expensive of the bunch

[Joe Adams]

The trick to joining Festool tracks (other than leaving a slight gap between them) is to buy a Betterley Straight Line Connector. For $99, it's a nice piece of machined aluminum with cam locks that provides perfect alignment every time. I use mine all the time and actually prefer joining shorter rails over trying to transport/store the long rails. I've never had a problem with messing up the alignment when moving joined rails between cuts.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=a6F97WFYwkU

[mreza Salav]

I have a Festool TS75. I bought the 118" track from Makita and a pair of track clamps from Makita (they were almost half the price of Festool).
Makita track is compatible with Festool saw.
Festool has a few extra featuers (like ZC on the right of the blade above the work) believe it or not the systaniers are nice enough that you'll use them for sure to keep things organized.

[Mike Cutler]

A couple of questions on this option. 1) Do you have any alignment issues when setting up the two short rails? 2) I will have a bunch of plywood carcasses to build coming up. How much of a pain is it to have to swap between the long rip cuts and shorter cross cuts when you have only two 55 rails. Do you take the rails apart for the crosscuts? These two concerns are why I am leaning towards needing a short rail and a long rail.[/COLOR]

I don't have a big jointer (wish list item), so I will be using the track saw to straight line rip rough lumber in the milling process. Will I have issues with the power and depth of the TS55 vs the Makita on 8/4 stock? I have read mixed reviews.

Frank

I am not a cabinet maker, so take this for it's worth.
I have no problems joining the two rails and getting a straight cut. But If you are breaking down 4'x8' sheets and cutting the 96" length on a repetitive basis, than I would say that yes you need the longer rail for two reasons;
1.) Joining the rails is not difficult, but it does take a few minutes too get them aligned. Doing it multiple times per day would probably get pretty irritating. The Festool guide rails do not self align, and definitely require a straight edge to align them. I use a 6' Starrett rule. For a DIY'r in his garage, it's one thing. For someone that does it for a living, that's time lost.
2.) Two 55" rails joined together would be 110" of rail, which seems like it should be enough for a length wise cut on a 4'x8' sheet, but the design of the saw base itself requires that both alignment cams are on the track, or the saw starts out, or finishes, at a slightly skewed angle. 110" is just barely enough, even with the plunge feature. The 118" rail has the extra few inches you need.I'm sure the Makita would be the same.

Ripping 8/4 rough stock with either the Makita, or the Festool could present issues at the nominal full thickness of rough cut 8/4. Both saws have just under 2" depth of cut on the rail, so you may not be clearing the gullets of the blade properly, or at all, on 8/4 rough. This is why I bought the TS75. Not clearing the gullets will effect any saw's performance.Differing species of wood will also have a significant effect. With either saw, you are definitely into purchasing a dedicated rip blade.

Festool comes with a 30 day guarantee. If you don't like it return it. If you get the Makita through Home Depot, the return policy is just as good.
I'd say try one and if you don't like it, return it, and try the other.

[Patrick Walsh]

I work with a guy that owns the Makita. While it does the job it feels a cheap toy compared to my TS75.

I purchased the TS 75 for 8/4 also as that is what would get the job done. As for the two rails everything said prior is true. You can get by connecting two but its a pain, only slightly but enough you will end up wanting that long rail. With that said Im a tool whore and a professional and i still don't have one.

I tend to go on the belief to hold off however long need be to purchase the best so i have no regrets later. How much longer does it take to save the funds to bridge the gap between any of the offerings you are considering.

With such a attitude i may never be able to retire, but hey i love my work so ;)

[Cary Falk]

I have the deWalt. I got a recon Saw for $250 from Tool King a few years back. I'm not one of those people that say a track saw can replace a table saw so it works fine for what I use it for which is straight line ripping rough lumber and breaking down plywood for the tablesaw. It also works good for odd angle cuts. The track does make it challenging to add parallel guides but I made a set. You can doe a search on here there should be pictures. I started out with 2 short tracks. I didn't have problems with alignment so much as the saw getting hung up on the joint. I now have a long track. I bought the router guide, clamps, miter gauge,track bag, and right angle guide just in case DeWalt decides to discontinue them. I haven't used an of them yet. Every Christmas DeWalt always has $25 off $100 so I used that to buy accessories. My friend has the Makita and it works fine also.

[Chris Hachet]

I would vote for the Festool, I like it the best of all of your options. The extra in price is well worth it IMHO.

[Richard Shaefer]

Another vote for the festool. I have the TS 75. It just works. And speaking as someone who does make cabinets quite regularly, it does make a great and nigh-dustless table saw substitute in the field. Spend the $200 and get the accessory kit box, which I don't think any other manufacturer offers, and in many ways it far better than a table saw. This is especially true for building to fit in non-square houses. (I friggin hate log cabins. They are never square) I can't speak to the Makita, but I've used the rest and the Dewalt is the closest. The Eureka is just garbage. Used a friend's on a job out west and was disgusted by it.

[Joe Adams]

Frank

I am not a cabinet maker, so take this for it's worth.
I have no problems joining the two rails and getting a straight cut. But If you are breaking down 4'x8' sheets and cutting the 96" length on a repetitive basis, than I would say that yes you need the longer rail for two reasons;
1.) Joining the rails is not difficult, but it does take a few minutes too get them aligned. Doing it multiple times per day would probably get pretty irritating. The Festool guide rails do not self align, and definitely require a straight edge to align them. I use a 6' Starrett rule. For a DIY'r in his garage, it's one thing. For someone that does it for a living, that's time lost.
2.) Two 55" rails joined together would be 110" of rail, which seems like it should be enough for a length wise cut on a 4'x8' sheet, but the design of the saw base itself requires that both alignment cams are on the track, or the saw starts out, or finishes, at a slightly skewed angle. 110" is just barely enough, even with the plunge feature. The 118" rail has the extra few inches you need.I'm sure the Makita would be the same.

I've cut up a lot of 4x8 plywood using two joined 55" rails. The Betterley Straight Line connector makes joining them accurately a snap. You are correct that 110" is barely enough but it does work. The trick is to leave a enough at the start for the base of the saw.


Ripping 8/4 rough stock with either the Makita, or the Festool could present issues at the nominal full thickness of rough cut 8/4. Both saws have just under 2" depth of cut on the rail, so you may not be clearing the gullets of the blade properly, or at all, on 8/4 rough. This is why I bought the TS75. Not clearing the gullets will effect any saw's performance.Differing species of wood will also have a significant effect. With either saw, you are definitely into purchasing a dedicated rip blade.

If you need a 2" capacity, get the TS75 but not because of clearing the gullets.

Festool's track saws are designed for near zero blade penetration beyond the stock thickness so that they can work with a sacrificial underlayment like their Multi Function Table (MFT) without cutting it to pieces. I use foam board from the big box stores and only cut 1/8 kerfs. I've even seen guys cut hardwood flooring glued to concrete and only have the blade deep enough through the wood to score the glue.

Some people say the TS55 is underpowered for thick hardwoods but I use mine (with connected rails by the way) to process S2S 6/4 hardwood stock with no problems. The rip blade helps but I have used the standard combo blade just fine when it wasn't readily available. I always use the combo blade for breaking down plywood usually with two or three sheets of 3/4" stacked.

[Peter Quinn]

I bought my makita on sale last winter, some where around $350 from amazon IIR? So yes, they do go on sale, festool less so than the others, look out for the recon sales from festool that happen a few times each year, they usually have a few track saws for sale at pretty good discounts. I've used the festool 55 at work a lot and in a few subtle ways its really the best of the bunch, but I couldn't justify a festool for my home shop. I pretty much bought it for odd angle cuts on sheet goods and for splitting full sheets, and the occasional counter top that I can't or don't want to push over the table saw. If you are looking to straight line a lot of 8/4 there isn't much choice, you need the bigger festool 75 saw. I personally don't like carrying more weight than I need, so I'm not buying a saw that big to primarily break down sheet goods, If I wanted a work out I'd attach a dumbbell or sandbag to my present saw to give it that "heavy" feeling...thats a feeling I can do without. Ideally you would have both a 75 and one of the smaller saws, but that a budget breaker for many.

[Michael Zerance]

Do any of these track saws ever go on sale?

You just missed most of the end of year sales. About a month ago I picked up a recon Makita with the short track and an extra blade for around $335 shipped; they had a $25 off coupon, no tax, and free shipping.

I was originally just looking for a slightly better option over the circular saw and plywood edge guide combo I was using. I have a panel saw so I didn't expect to get a lot use out of the track saw. My initial search led me to the Grizzly track saw which I would have grabbed for about $260 if the discounted reconditioned Makita wasn't so close in price. I figured I could throw another $75 at it to get a better quality saw.

I also picked up the long track for $229 shipped, using another $25 off coupon.

I got the DeWalt clamps to use with the track because they are the quick release type and a little less expensive.

===============

The good:

I can't believe that I went so long without a track saw. It really is versatile.

We fabricated a 145" long Corian window sill and, using both tracks connected together, I used the saw to cut the edge buildup strips, then used the track as a guide for my router to clean up the edge, and finally used the track saw to cut it to width and length.

I used it to cut down a set of custom mahogany countertops that were to fit against a slightly skewed wall; the countertops all fit perfect the first time and the cut edge was chip free.

Recently we were installing cabinets on a floor that was over 1" out of level from one side to the other. I had to scribe the cabinet to the floor to take off about 3/8" from the the bottom of 3 or 4 cabinets. Normally, I would use either a circular saw or jig saw (messy) or take it outside and use the belt sander (time consuming). I hooked up the shop vac to the track saw and cut away. There was very little mess and what was there was located on the drop cloth in the work area, not floating in the air. I did still have to use the jigsaw on the toe kick area but the track saw eliminated most of the mess. Also, it was quick and easy.

I rarely use the clamps; the track stays put unless the piece is narrow or not properly supported.

It has a scoring depth stop.

It has a variety of easy-to-use angle and depth adjustments.

===============

The Bad:

The saw I got had to be returned. I believe the blade was skewed slightly. On thick material, I was getting some burning on the keeper piece while the offcut was clean. Also, when plunging into the middle of a panel, there would be a slight overcut (1/64") where the blade entered the material. I called Makita and they told me that it was not adjustable so I just sent it back for a replacement. I hope it to be an isolated issue but I won't know until I get the replacement on Monday.

The long track I got was dented in a few places. The packaging was stepped on (there was a boot print on it) and it looked like it may have been opened. The dents were fairly minor and I would have lived with it except that the glide strips were also misapplied (see picture). One of the glide strips had a 1/2" curve in it, to the point that it came up out of the recess for it. When the saw would hit this spot it would tilt slightly. I figured I could just replace them myself; however, the Makita rep told me that they do not carry the glide strips for sale individually. I sent the track back and am now awaiting a replacement.

===============

Conclusion:

The Makita seems like a nice saw assuming that the issue I had with mine was an isolated incident but the fact that the glide strips are not available is really disappointing. Considering that I paid $565 for the saw, short track, long track, and an extra blade I think it is a good value, assuming that the replacement functions as expected.

I think you could probably get similar performance out of the Grizzly, after a few easy modifications. If I was to do it over again, and I couldn't find a deal on the Makita, I would buy the Grizzly. If I didn't have a panel saw and a decent table saw, I would get the Festool.

328339

[Mike Cutler]

Joe

It's been my experience, so far, that having the blade clear the other side of the material helps quite a bit. I also use the 2" foam board as a table surface' ZCI. When ripping through some 8/4 Padauk and Jatoba, there was a difference when all of the waste material was allowed to clear the cut on both sides. That Padauk was 17'x3'x2"+. We actually did the cuts on the car carrier we rented to move it. It could also be that the Fein Turbo II I use is not as powerful as the Festool vac. Someday I'll have to try out a Festool Vac.
I consider the TS75 one of my best investments. It was a huge improvement over the Milwaukee worm drive I was using.

As an aside, I recently purchased a Carvex from a fellow member. Wow, what a nice jig saw!I have two other jig saws and this one is just a completely different level of quality and performance.

[Ben Rivel]

Did all the research myself too not long ago and after looking at all options the DeWalt was the one I went with. Got the saw and all three tracks they make, a couple rail clamps and the router rail attachment and its been great. WAY cheaper than the Festool option and unless you are bought into the Festool system already the DeWalt offers all the same features and quality for half the cost. Ive also had near perfect dust collection with just a shop-vac into the DeWalt. No need for a $700 vacuum.

[Art Mann]

I can't say anything about Festool or Dewalt, but I have been extremely pleased with my Makita track saw. I use a Ridgid shop vac and a flexible hose kit I bought from Rockler for dust control and it is almost 100% effective. Someone said you don't need clamps and I mostly agree. However, it you are cutting material that is warped or bowed in some way the clamps are essential. For well supported flat sheets I don't bother. I don't use a long rail because I do rip cuts on the table saw. My main use for the track saw is doing cross cuts on sheet goods. I am thinking about buying another short rail and coupler to use two sections on certain rare occasions.

In general, I think your prices are pessimistic except for the Festool equipment, which only goes on sale if it is going obsolete. Dewalt and Makita go on sale fairly often. Of course that doesn't do you any good if you need the saw right now.

[Joe Adams]

Just for the record there is no need to use a Festool vacuum with a Festool track saw. I used an industrial Shop Vac for years and more recently a Fein Turbo 2. Both worked great with it.

I do have a Festool CT36 that I use with Festool sanders because the ability to reduce suction is a necessity for their operation.

[Mike Henderson]

Just for the record there is no need to use a Festool vacuum with a Festool track saw. I used an industrial Shop Vac for years and more recently a Fein Turbo 2. Both worked great with it.

I do have a Festool CT36 that I use with Festool sanders because the ability to reduce suction is a necessity for their operation.

+1 I use a Ridgid vacuum with all my Festool tools. I put a router control on it so that I can slow it down when I want to. The Festool vac, while nice, are just too expensive.

Mike

P.S. I have the Festool track saw - the 55 - and have been very satisfied. But I haven't used any other brand of track saw.

[Mark Blatter]

I bought the Makita about five months ago and have been amazed how much I have used it. It came in very handy when I was building a shed in my back yard last Sep. After I broke my humerus, I had some friends & neighbors come over to help me get the siding on before winter. We used the Makita to cut it to size and they kept saying, "Don't you need to clamp the track down?" They were amazed at how well it stayed in place and cut.

I have been very pleased with it. It was very close in price to the DeWalt and believe it is a better saw. Would not make a change now after using it. I bought the DeWalt clamps and they work great, though I have only used them a few times. Even cutting laminate, I didn't use them. I cut it face down using just the scoring function and the amount of chipping was almost zero.

[Anthony Whitesell]

Aren't the 1&2 the same on the festool, and the Festool track is the most expensive of the bunch

1) Was not the same, the scoring stop did not have to be disabled for each use on the Festool
2) I didn't notice that on the Festool, but you are probably right.
3) Yes the Festool track is the most expensive, but when I added the saw, short, and long track together (like Frank did), I had them ranked Dewalt-Festool-Makita ($ to $$$). Like Frank, this is what mattered to me.

[scott stoner]

I'm also ready to purchase a track saw debating between the Festool and Makita.
If two short Festool tracks at 110" are barely long enough to cut a 8ft board
Then how do you crosscut a 4ft board with the 55" rail
would seem a long rail is a pain to crosscut a 4 x 8 foot sheet of plywood

thanks
Scott

[Peter Quinn]

I'm also ready to purchase a track saw debating between the Festool and Makita.
If two short Festool tracks at 110" are barely long enough to cut a 8ft board
Then how do you crosscut a 4ft board with the 55" rail
would seem a long rail is a pain to crosscut a 4 x 8 foot sheet of plywood

thanks
Scott

You can definitely cut 8' material with two 55" rails joined, and a single 55"rail is fine or cross cutting 48", I was doing it today. I got the track saw to break down full sheets of plywood before cutting to final dimension on the cabinet saw. It really makes life easier for me. Today I was cutting 15" widths for pantry cabinets, I cut an 8' rip from a sheet, a bit over width, then cut off the factor edge on the cabinet saw. Its so much easier than pushing 4X8 sheets over the saw to take a narrow rip, gets rid of that ratty factory edge as a reference edge. For that alone its worth it to me.

[Anthony Whitesell]

I love my Grizzly bandsaw and jointer. Both did well in the reviews. I can't saw so for their tracksaw, albeit I have only seen one tracksaw review. Fine Homebuilding concluded "For occasionaluse, this tool will get the job done, but ifyou plan on using your track saw often, it’s worth upgrading." and "the Grizzly costs roughly a quarter of the most expensive saw, so it’s no surprise that it lacks the features of the other saws and has poor ergonomics."

I hope to see some more tracksaw tool tests in 2016. They seem to be coming very popular.

[Floyd Mah]

Take a look at the reviews on Amazon for the Shop Fox W1835. It's the same as the Grizzly. The 55" track is about $54. The accessories kit (essential) is $35. A new blade can be purchased for about $50 (same as the others). It does have some flaws, but all of these can be overcome with a little tweaking. The reviews identify the problems. The only feature not easily solved is the splintering on the off-guard side, but various remedies have been posted here. Don't know if the DeWalt or Makita have a solution like the Festool. Total initial cost would be a bit over $300 for the whole kit. Worth trying if you don't want to spend a lot of money. I have nothing against the Fe$tool (I bought a Domino this year), but the high cost is not justified when others make comparable offerings.

[Alan Lightstone]

FWIW, I use the clamps with my TS55 almost all the time if possible for that cut. I have had a few occasions where the track slipped on the surface without them. Not totally necessary, but I would purchase them.

I don't have experience with the other saws, but you'll love the Festool.

The Mafell is tool porn. Anyone still have the link to their track saw that moves itself on the track?

[Frank Yacone]

Thanks for all of the replies. Am I the only one that finds this research a bit overwhelming?

Someone asked about how long it will take to get save for one. Currently, I will put $100 a month to it, plus $100 in April for my birthday. So it will take some time. I plan on getting the track saw and short rail as soon as I have the money, and buying the long track later.

I have narrowed my choices down to the following:

Makita: Total = $740
-track saw and short rail (55") - $440
-long rail (118") - $260
-pair of track clamps (Makita) - $40

Festool TS55 REQ: Total = $1025
-track saw and short rail (55") - $640
-pair of track clamps (Festool screw type) - $40
-Festool long rail (118") - $345

A couple of more questions. Someone mentioned that the Makita could not handle 8/4 stock, but the specs say it has a 2 3/16" depth, so I'm confused on this.

For those that have the TS75, will the stock blade provide splinter free cuts on plywood, or did you have to buy another blade? I understand the blades are different between the TS55 and TS75.

[scott stoner]

The Makita doesn't have a riving knife so I would remove that from your list based upon your interest in ripping rough lumber.

The only place I've really noticed the Makita having more power than the Festool is cutting 3 sheets of 3/4" plywood at a time. I have zero experience using them on rough lumber but understand the TS75 does that better. It comes with a 75" rail in the price.

I personally wouldn't want a Dewalt. It uses a weird track that doesn't allow parallel guides, being squared with a big framing square, and only has 55" and 102" tracks available. Dewalt doesn't make it but buys it from another company. Stanley Black and Decker has a history of abandoning every single product that they have ever handled this way.

Joining tracks is better than nothing but a poor substitute for a longer track. Plan on having a long straight edge and being very careful if you have to move it to another sheet of plywood.

In my case I would be buying it to primarily break down plywood, but occasionally may want to straight line some lumber .
With a wedge in the kerf I don't see the riving knife as a deal breaker. I'm more concerned about the Makita not having the splinter guard for the off cut side.
Is there a work around for that on the Makita?
Thanks
Scott

[Greg R Bradley]

The cut depth of the Festool TS55 and Makita SP6000 is exactly the same: 55mm or 2-3/16". They both leave exactly the same line in foam when used at max depth to cut 3 sheets of 18mm BB.

Makita does not have a riving knife.

Other info:
Joe Adams is exactly right about no need for any specific Vac. Nice to have one turn on with the tool but lots do that or add a iSwitch. If you have a normal shop vac, just add a Bosch VAC005 hose and you are all set.

Someone stated that it works great with a Fein Turbo II, which is does. Those definitely don't have any less suction than a Festool Vac and are quieter. The Fein with the Fein hose does work a bit better than the Festool because the hose is a bit bigger. The Bosch 35mm or Festool 36mm works just a bit better again.

Someone added up that the Makita is more than Festool, which is crazy. Makita and Dewalt have always been less. I've seen both with short track at a bit over $300. Current price on Makita at HD is $405.72 and they were 20% off about a year ago.

Also, any Festool tool always includes freight to you at no charge, 30 day no-question return, and 3 year warranty. That is worth something. Also, if you don't want the T-lock systainer they are sellable for $70 or so.

Festool screw type clamps and Makita ones are almost identical, as are the new Bessey version. You don't need clamps for plywood, even melamine, if you are working on top of horizontal material.

You will need a second blade for the TS55 where the TS75 comes with a blade and the power to do your hardwood ripping. I have no personal experience with that but know someone well that does.

[Jamie Buxton]

..For those that have the TS75, will the stock blade provide splinter free cuts on plywood, or did you have to buy another blade? I understand the blades are different between the TS55 and TS75..

The 55 is currently shipped with a blade optimized for plywood. It has lots of teeth, and a negative hook angle. That means it has little chip-out on cross-cuts in veneer-face plywood. But it doesn't rip hardwood very well. The 75 ships with a blade optimized for ripping hardwood. It has fewer teeth, and a positive hook angle. It rips like crazy, but chips out on cross cuts in plywood. Of course, you can buy a plywood blade for your 75, and you can buy a rip blade for your 55. There are also intermediate blades available that do an okay job of both kinds of cuts.

These decisions will be the same for other tracks saws, and indeed for any saw.

I'm pretty sure the Festool blades fit the Makita and the DeWalt. I've seen blades for the Festool from Freud, CMT, and Amana.

[Greg R Bradley]

Scott,
Didn't see your post while I was typing mine.

Makita has no offside anti-splinter.

My TS 55 has an anti-splinter that you attach as needed. I rarely remove it. The newer model has one that that stays attached and can be parked if you need to cut really close to a wall.

[Joe Adams]

You can occasionally find good deals on used Festool although they usually hold their value fairly well (70-80%). They also tend to have annul "Recon" sales with discounts of 10 to 30%.

[Allan Speers]

Just for the record there is no need to use a Festool vacuum with a Festool track saw. I used an industrial Shop Vac for years and more recently a Fein Turbo 2. Both worked great with it.

I do have a Festool CT36 that I use with Festool sanders because the ability to reduce suction is a necessity for their operation.


treu. - but you can get a CT vac for about $100 less if you buy it with another Festool system. (I think the tracksaw is bundled with it, no?) And they are VERY nice vacs.

[Frank Yacone]

I think I have the economics down between the two options. With all that I want, based on all the great feedback, and my own desires, there is about a $300 difference between the two options ($200 for the saw, and $100 for the rail). That is getting close to be called good enough, but that is also half of the cost of Jet dust collector I want too :confused:. I only want to buy this once, so let me look at the different features to make sure I understand them correctly.

When looking at other reviews. It looks like the cut quality between the two on plywood is very close. For those that have used both the Makita and Festool, is that what you have seen as well with the stock blades? Also, for either, did you upgrade blades to a Freud, etc.

Makita does not have an anti-splitter guard. Does the anti-splinter guard make the Festool results that much better? When comparing Festool with the guard and Festool without the guard, are the results different?

The lack of a riving knife on Makita is less safe when straight line ripping. Festool has a riving knife. If I am only working with sheet goods, either should be good. However, if I'm doing more straight line ripping, I'll lean towards the Festool.

I do like the anti-tip feature of the Makita when doing bevel cuts. How careful do you have to be on the Festool for bevel cuts?

I also like the preset stops on the Makita. Is there equivalents for this on the Festool for the bevel settings? When would I need to use the -1 and 48 degree stops?

Dust collection seems to be comparable between the two.

Am I missing any other good features?

Thanks for all the help so far. I really do value the time you take for you responses. It is helping me come to a final decision for this large purchase.

[Keith Hankins]

Coming late to the party, but if your sinking that kind of money to begin with get the best. Festool is the king, and you can use your shop vac just get the right adapter. I have a shopvac attached to my kapex and it works fine. I do like the festool vac and its auto on feature is really nice. Nothing says you can't add later or catch a sale with the combo of vac/saw. The clamps are of , but have to say not used em in forever. To break down sheet goods, I lay a 2" sheet of solid insulation down on the floor and lay the ply ontop and just put the rail on it and it won't move don't have to clamp crap. You only feel the pain once do it. Mines very old not an issue in many many years.

I struggled big time when I got mine (saw/vac combo) and after using it all this time, one of the best investments ever made. BTW add a MFT3, and its a wicked combo.

[Eric Schmid]

The Dewalt and Makita use a slightly larger blade than the Festool, hence their ~2" cutting capacity. There are a couple of issues you may run into trying to use these saws for both plywood and dimensional lumber.

First is that these saws are underpowered for ripping 8/4 hardwood with any regularity. Sure they will do it, but it clearly taxes the motor.

Adding a ripping blade will help a lot, but the only rip blades I am aware of are made in the Festool blade size which will not quite cut 2" at 90 degree. In addition, at least with the Panther blade, the blade is a little wider and has more set on the teeth. Using this blade on your nicely trimmed anti-splinter edge will make a chippy mess of the plastic edge. In addition the Panther blade won't cut over 1 15/16. You could always have a 6 1/2" rip blade blank bored for 20mm arbor, but you are still running the saw hard.

Although I say this reluctantly, the Dewalt may have a couple of advantages for the dual usage you are aiming for. The reason I am reluctant to recommend this saw is because I am not confident in Dewalt's commitment to this product. That said I have had one in professional job site service for 8 years and it has stood up to a lot of abuse without a single service.

The Dewalt track is double sided, which means you can use one side for rip blades and the other for plywood blades. It has a riving knife, which you should have cutting thick hardwood. It has a slightly larger cutting capacity than the Festool. In addition, should you decide to increase the usefulness of your track saw in the future, you can put the Dewalt on a Festool track and utilize their system.

[Ole Anderson]

Someone passing out the Kool Aid?

[Frank Yacone]

Did all the research myself too not long ago and after looking at all options the DeWalt was the one I went with. Got the saw and all three tracks they make, a couple rail clamps and the router rail attachment and its been great. WAY cheaper than the Festool option and unless you are bought into the Festool system already the DeWalt offers all the same features and quality for half the cost. Ive also had near perfect dust collection with just a shop-vac into the DeWalt. No need for a $700 vacuum.

Is there enough room to cut plywood longwise when using the 102" track? Is the saw fully supported?

[Frank Yacone]

Take a look at the reviews on Amazon for the Shop Fox W1835. It's the same as the Grizzly. The 55" track is about $54. The accessories kit (essential) is $35. A new blade can be purchased for about $50 (same as the others). It does have some flaws, but all of these can be overcome with a little tweaking. The reviews identify the problems. The only feature not easily solved is the splintering on the off-guard side, but various remedies have been posted here. Don't know if the DeWalt or Makita have a solution like the Festool. Total initial cost would be a bit over $300 for the whole kit. Worth trying if you don't want to spend a lot of money. I have nothing against the Fe$tool (I bought a Domino this year), but the high cost is not justified when others make comparable offerings.


Did you purchase the Shop Fox? How does it perform?

[Rich Engelhardt]

I got my Festool TS55EQ just before the DeWalt came out.
Had the DeWalt been out, I would have gone with it instead.
Mainly because the DeWalt has the ability to cut closer to a wall or other vertical surface. That feature fits my uses better.

One other unsaid plus for the Festool is - you get a Festool blade with their saw.

Festool makes a very, very, very good blade....

[Frank Yacone]

The cut depth of the Festool TS55 and Makita SP6000 is exactly the same: 55mm or 2-3/16". They both leave exactly the same line in foam when used at max depth to cut 3 sheets of 18mm BB.

Makita does not have a riving knife.

Other info:
Joe Adams is exactly right about no need for any specific Vac. Nice to have one turn on with the tool but lots do that or add a iSwitch. If you have a normal shop vac, just add a Bosch VAC005 hose and you are all set.

Someone stated that it works great with a Fein Turbo II, which is does. Those definitely don't have any less suction than a Festool Vac and are quieter. The Fein with the Fein hose does work a bit better than the Festool because the hose is a bit bigger. The Bosch 35mm or Festool 36mm works just a bit better again.

Someone added up that the Makita is more than Festool, which is crazy. Makita and Dewalt have always been less. I've seen both with short track at a bit over $300. Current price on Makita at HD is $405.72 and they were 20% off about a year ago.

Also, any Festool tool always includes freight to you at no charge, 30 day no-question return, and 3 year warranty. That is worth something. Also, if you don't want the T-lock systainer they are sellable for $70 or so.

Festool screw type clamps and Makita ones are almost identical, as are the new Bessey version. You don't need clamps for plywood, even melamine, if you are working on top of horizontal material.

You will need a second blade for the TS55 where the TS75 comes with a blade and the power to do your hardwood ripping. I have no personal experience with that but know someone well that does.

Is the depth of cut for the Makita with or without the track? Can it cut 8/4?...confused...

[Greg R Bradley]

Someone passing out the Kool Aid?
And repeating incorrect information from published tests and comparisons.
Here is my recorded info from my tests with TS55 and SP6000 at max plunge.
328429328430

When I was done, I couldn't tell which saw had made which cut.

I think I've read more than a dozen tests and found errors in all of them.

Edited to add: The depth of cut is without track. On the track they cut just about exactly 2". The total thickness of that material is 2-3/16" and you can see the line I had to cut by hand that is 3/16" thick.

Here is the picture of that entire cart for clarity. 3 thicknesses of flooring with an additional crosspiece of solid oak under the casters:
328431

[Frank Yacone]

The Dewalt and Makita use a slightly larger blade than the Festool, hence their ~2" cutting capacity. There are a couple of issues you may run into trying to use these saws for both plywood and dimensional lumber.

First is that these saws are underpowered for ripping 8/4 hardwood with any regularity. Sure they will do it, but it clearly taxes the motor.

Adding a ripping blade will help a lot, but the only rip blades I am aware of are made in the Festool blade size which will not quite cut 2" at 90 degree. In addition, at least with the Panther blade, the blade is a little wider and has more set on the teeth. Using this blade on your nicely trimmed anti-splinter edge will make a chippy mess of the plastic edge. In addition the Panther blade won't cut over 1 15/16. You could always have a 6 1/2" rip blade blank bored for 20mm arbor, but you are still running the saw hard.

Although I say this reluctantly, the Dewalt may have a couple of advantages for the dual usage you are aiming for. The reason I am reluctant to recommend this saw is because I am not confident in Dewalt's commitment to this product. That said I have had one in professional job site service for 8 years and it has stood up to a lot of abuse without a single service.

The Dewalt track is double sided, which means you can use one side for rip blades and the other for plywood blades. It has a riving knife, which you should have cutting thick hardwood. It has a slightly larger cutting capacity than the Festool. In addition, should you decide to increase the usefulness of your track saw in the future, you can put the Dewalt on a Festool track and utilize their system.

I like the idea of having a dedicated rip and crosscut side of the track. My only concern is whether the long track that comes with the kit is long enough to support the saw. It is only 102".

[Floyd Mah]

I have a Scheppach. It's the same as the Grizzly and Shop Fox. I bought a 55" Shop Fox track that was identical to the Scheppach 27" tracks. I posted this (http://www.sawmillcreek.org/showthread.php?201914-Grizzly-Track-Saw-Review-from-TWW&p=2144474&highlight=#post2144474) on a thread to demonstrate that it's possible to alter the blade guard to accept the Festool anti-splinter guard if you had some time to waste. The accessory pack for the Shop Fox has two clamps and a support for the saw when doing bezel work which is essential for avoiding tipping of the saw. Cheap at $35 (less than a single Festool clamp, although different design).

[Rich Engelhardt]

My only concern is whether the long track that comes with the kit is long enough to support the saw. It is only 102".I just did a kitchen & used about a dozen sheets of 4x8 Cherry ply.
I used my Festool TS55EQ and a 55" section of track along with a 42" section of track - which comes out to 97" long. The half inch overhang on each end was skimpy and I really had to take my time doing the cuts, but, they were 100% doable.
My other 55" section of track is/was down due to the anti splinter strip falling off & me not wanting to put off making the cuts until after it had been replaced.

102" should be more than ample to work.

[Art Mann]

I think I have the economics down between the two options. With all that I want, based on all the great feedback, and my own desires, there is about a $300 difference between the two options ($200 for the saw, and $100 for the rail). That is getting close to be called good enough, but that is also half of the cost of Jet dust collector I want too :confused:. I only want to buy this once, so let me look at the different features to make sure I understand them correctly.

When looking at other reviews. It looks like the cut quality between the two on plywood is very close. For those that have used both the Makita and Festool, is that what you have seen as well with the stock blades? Also, for either, did you upgrade blades to a Freud, etc.

The Makita does a very fine job. That surprised me a little as I have never bought a saw that had an included blade that was worth keeping before. I haven't tried a Festool saw but I'll bet it also comes with a fine blade.

Makita does not have an anti-splitter guard. Does the anti-splinter guard make the Festool results that much better? When comparing Festool with the guard and Festool without the guard, are the results different?

One side of the cut has a piece of rubber in place to prevent tear out or splintering. The other side doesn't. I haven't found this to be a problem very often. If you are using it for ripping, you arten't going to get any splintering or tear out anyway. You won't get much with cross cutting.

The lack of a riving knife on Makita is less safe when straight line ripping. Festool has a riving knife. If I am only working with sheet goods, either should be good. However, if I'm doing more straight line ripping, I'll lean towards the Festool.

For my purposes, that is a non-issue. You are going to have to be cutting some really sorry sheet goods for the crack to close up behind the cut and cause a kickback. I have cut a lot of stuff with my track saw, all the way from Walnut plywood to sheet siding to sheathing and I haven't had it happen yet. If you are going to rip some poorly dried or highly reactionary wood species, the story migh be different.

I do like the anti-tip feature of the Makita when doing bevel cuts. How careful do you have to be on the Festool for bevel cuts?

I also like the preset stops on the Makita. Is there equivalents for this on the Festool for the bevel settings? When would I need to use the -1 and 48 degree stops?

Dust collection seems to be comparable between the two.

Am I missing any other good features?

Thanks for all the help so far. I really do value the time you take for you responses. It is helping me come to a final decision for this large purchase.

See comments in red above. I would expect that the Festool is a little nicer saw. It ought to be for the additional cost. The Makita does everything I want it to and I have a little more money to use for other things.

[Bill Stephenson]

Appears that most of the focus here is on Festool. I had the same dilemma you have and ended up with the Dewalt. I purchased the Makita first and returned it because the blade was not square with the sole plate. It had adjustments but I could not get them to work to cure the problem. I bought the Dewalt and saved about $400.00 as opposed to the Festool. Be aware that most of the tracks are not long enough to cut a 8 ft sheet of ply.The saw must have room at both ends of the track to keep the guides in the track otherwise you risk a skewing the cut. I ended up with the following tracks. a 59"standard track,a 102" standard track. I then bought another 59" track and cut off 20"to add to the 102" inch track. which I do not remove.I now have a 59-41-and a 120 inch track which covers all my needs. The Dewalt also has 1300W of power more than most of the others.I am not an anti Festool guy because I took the $400. Saved and put it toward a festool Vac and sander,which I am very satisfied with. Bonus with the Dewalt track is that you can use both sides of the track. Good Luck with your decision.

[Ben Rivel]

Appears that most of the focus here is on Festool. I had the same dilemma you have and ended up with the Dewalt. I purchased the Makita first and returned it because the blade was not square with the sole plate. It had adjustments but I could not get them to work to cure the problem. I bought the Dewalt and saved about $400.00 as opposed to the Festool. Be aware that most of the tracks are not long enough to cut a 8 ft sheet of ply.The saw must have room at both ends of the track to keep the guides in the track otherwise you risk a skewing the cut. I ended up with the following tracks. a 59"standard track,a 102" standard track. I then bought another 59" track and cut off 20"to add to the 102" inch track. which I do not remove.I now have a 59-41-and a 120 inch track which covers all my needs. The Dewalt also has 1300W of power more than most of the others.I am not an anti Festool guy because I took the $400. Saved and put it toward a festool Vac and sander,which I am very satisfied with. Bonus with the Dewalt track is that you can use both sides of the track. Good Luck with your decision.
Huh, permantely extending the 102" DeWalt track... I like it! Thanks for the idea! Ill have a friend weld an extension made from a 43" track or some other!

[richard poitras]

4: Eurekazone.


Gets my vote.

Count me down for the Eurekazone as my vote. I have had one of there systems for years with great results. And I got another one when we needed one at work as well.

[Jim Dwight]

328451328452328453328454328455
Is there enough room to cut plywood longwise when using the 102" track? Is the saw fully supported?

Yes but you have to align the track correctly and use good technique. I broke down a sheet of 3/4 yesterday, for a shop base cabinet, and made a couple cuts that were initially off less than 1/32 at the outfeed end (i.e. not the end you start at). I align the track to put the extra length at the infeed and need to change to put maybe 1 inch of the extra 6 inches at the outfeed. It would be nice to have another couple inches. I also need to check my guides, I haven't messed with them since the initial setup. I also want to turn the anti-kickback off. I think it is helping to align the saw at the moment with the other guides a little loose.

DeWalt sells 102, 59, and 41 inch track. I got the 41 for Christmas and it is handy on the Paulk crosscut jig. I also have the router attachment and the micro adjust is great. You can have a parallel guide but you have to make it. It works like the Festool so you can't clamp the track. I like to clamp so I use these usually. They are not impressive in appearance but work great.

Don't buy any clamps other than the DeWalt. They are much easier to use 1 handed. They don't work for clamping in a MFT style table, however. I bought a couple Grizzly clamps for that.

[Frank Yacone]

I think I made my decision...

Going to go with the Dewalt system. Here's why: Cost, power, depth of cut, riving knife, dual sided tracks.

Going to get the following:
-Track saw, short rail, long rail kit
-pair of Dewalt track clamps
-Dewalt track connector
-rip blade???

Can someone who currently has a Dewalt recommend a rip blade which will have the same kerf as the stock blade?

Thanks to all for the help in making this decision. I really appreciate it!.

Frank

[john lawson]

Not sure you can flirt with Festool on this forum then just dump her for a DeWalt. Might be a penalty involved here! Mods will let you know.:):)

[Jim Dwight]

I think I made my decision...

Going to go with the Dewalt system. Here's why: Cost, power, depth of cut, riving knife, dual sided tracks.

Going to get the following:
-Track saw, short rail, long rail kit
-pair of Dewalt track clamps
-Dewalt track connector
-rip blade???

Can someone who currently has a Dewalt recommend a rip blade which will have the same kerf as the stock blade?

Thanks to all for the help in making this decision. I really appreciate it!.

Frank

Frank,

I am still using the DeWalt blade for everything. I cut a 1 3/4 thick solid door down with it (it wouldn't close properly). The saw had plenty of power even with this blade. I have a Oshlun blade I will put on when I have to take the DeWalt off. I have only used one blade of this manufacturer, it's on my little Ryobi battery powered circular saw. But it works well so I will try another. For a rip blade, you can drop down to a 28 tooth blade or all the way to a 14 tooth Freud. Like this one:
http://www.amazon.com/dp/B002IPGXRO/ref=wl_it_dp_o_pd_S_ttl?_encoding=UTF8&colid=1IB3TN526LXUS&coliid=I3FZLYBI5S4ZW5&psc=1
I don't know if the kerf is the same but I will probably get one sometime and try it. Remember you loose a little depth of cut with non-DeWalt blades. DeWalt's are 6.5 inches and the others are 160mm. That is a difference of 5.1mm. So you loose about 2.5mm depth of cut. I've ripped the edges of several boards with the stock DeWalt blade to prepare them for glueup. It works well. I wouldn't be too anxious to get another unless you need to cut 2 inch hardwood a lot. I'd spend the money on the router setup instead. It is handy.

[Frank Yacone]

Great. Less money to spend is always good.

Jim, Have you done anything about parallel guides? It looks like I have to build something for the Dewalt track. I looked around, but have not seen anything I've liked so far. I want something which will be able to remain attached to the bottom of the track and does not interfere with clamp usage.

[Eric Schmid]

I've been using the Festool Panther 12T, but it's aggressive. It will chip the top edge of your work piece and the anti-splinter strip. I still recommend it as it puts a lot less load on the saw than the 48T stock blade. It also cuts a lot faster in thick stock. You are going to lose some depth though; at least on the Dewalt saw.

I believe FS Tool also makes a blade, but it may be 160mm rather than 6.5". You might check Carbide Processors to see if they have a 6 1/2" or could bore a blank.

[Alan Heffernan]

I studied track saws and ended up with a Festool and used it with a Fein vacuum in the beginning.

While I read this thread quickly, I don't think I missed it and I was surprised no one made mention of the Multi-functional Table (MFT) that Festool sells that augments the saw tremendously.

It wasn't until I bought the MFT that I discovered the full value of the Festool track saw system. All too pricey? Absolutely and it gagged me to pay it. But now that I have the MFT, their vacuum and some of their other tools. I would not consider anything but the Festool saw.

[Jim Dwight]

It's nice we have alternatives. I also use a DeWalt and instead of a MFT I built a workbench based upon Ron Paulk's designs. I like the double layer top (tools go on the lower surface to reduce clutter on the top) and the crosscut jig (3 foot capacity in my case). Much cheaper too, of course.

[Frank Yacone]

It's nice we have alternatives. I also use a DeWalt and instead of a MFT I built a workbench based upon Ron Paulk's designs. I like the double layer top (tools go on the lower surface to reduce clutter on the top) and the crosscut jig (3 foot capacity in my case). Much cheaper too, of course.

Got any pics? :D