Neander Tools for Christmas

[Jim Laumann]

All

In November, my daughter and S.I.L. asked me what I wanted for Christmas... I told them "Gift cards to Woodcraft, Rockler, Cabelas or an area home improvement store" - figuring I'd make it simple for them. To my surprise, last Sunday I was handed a box which had both weight and a metallic clank.

Upon opening, I found the following:

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Not the gift card I was expecting. No tags or cast lettering to be found on this. The chuck looks to be for the 4 sided/tapered auger bits from years ago. There are two speed/gear ranges. The curved "strap" on end opposite the chuck looks to be pushed against ones chest - but that's just a guess.

Also in the box, I found a plane:

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There is a stamp in one end of the body, which reads: D. R. BARTON & CO. There is a star, and Rochester NY. This lettering is contained in a half circle of dashes (sorry no-pic). The rear handle is somewhat roughly shaped, you can see lines where it was planed. The handle is removable. The front handle has only a stub of a knob - wood looks to be the same age as the balance of the body.

The blade is in rough shape - it was beaten w/ a hammer at some point(s), it is also chewed up where it exits the body.

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And as long as I here, I'll throw in one more plane. This one I found at a flea market years past.

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The end of this one says: BAILEY in a arched layout, has a 2nd line w/ the word 'Stanley' and some other text I can't make out. The bottom line reads 'No. 26'. The front knob handle spins, the rear handle is tight. The blade looks square and in good shape where it would exit the body. The metal work on the top is black enamel paint, some rust spots.


So can one of you tell me what I have (age, etc). I assume that some time spent w/ a sharpening stone on the Bailey blade would bring it back to life,
but its a guess. I assume the BARTON will become a ambiance enhancement device for the shop walls. The drill?

I am a power tool guy, so this new stuff to me.

Thanks much

Jim

[Patrick Chase]

I'll take the easy one...



And as long as I here, I'll throw in one more plane. This one I found at a flea market years past.

328280328281

The end of this one says: BAILEY in a arched layout, has a 2nd line w/ the word 'Stanley' and some other text I can't make out. The bottom line reads 'No. 26'. The front knob handle spins, the rear handle is tight. The blade looks square and in good shape where it would exit the body. The metal work on the top is black enamel paint, some rust spots.

The flea market find is a Stanley #26 (http://www.supertool.com/StanleyBG/stan4.htm) "transitional" Jack plane. It's about the same size as a conventional #5. The transitional planes were Borg-of-tools' attempt to assimilate wooden-plane lovers by sticking Bailey-style mechanics on top of a wooden body. Unfortunately they aren't all that well regarded by either metal- *or* wood-plane fans.

EDIT: You owe it to yourself to read Leach's description of the 28-33 at the site linked above. Really! See also http://www.popularwoodworking.com/woodworking-blogs/chris-schwarz-blog/no-more-iron-bananas for a more positive assessment.

[Nicholas Lawrence]

The first one is a breast drill. They were made by Millers Falls, and by Stanley and Goodell Pratt as well, and probably others. I am no expert. The cheaper/later designs seemed to have the straight shaft shoulder piece like you have there, but yours seems to have some detail to it that suggests it is not really a low end model. I have seen a chuck like that somewhere, but I am not able to recall where at the moment. If there are no markings the chuck may be your best bet to identify the manufacturer. Old tool heaven has a nice page devoted to the Millers Falls and Goodell Pratt models. A lot of the ones I have seen are engraved on the flat part of the handle (the one you turn), and if you clean it up a little you might find some markings hiding under the "patina."

I have a Millers Falls No. 12 that I cleaned up and use. Mine will hold a normal drill bit very nicely, as well as my auger bits and Forster bits, and I like the combination of slow speed and significant torque. The better ones were very well made, and there is practically nothing that can go wrong with them.

[Phil Mueller]

No expert here either, but the front "knob" on the Barton is actually where you would tap with a light hammer to loosen the iron. On wooden planes, you tap the iron on its end to tighten it into place, tap the back of the plane to retract the iron slightly, and either tap the back of the plane or the "knob/button" on the front to loosen and remove the iron. May be why you've noticed hammer marks in these places.

[Jim Laumann]

Patrick and Phil - thanks for the info, and the reading material.

Nicholas - did as you suggested - eyeballed the handle under a strong lighter and magnifier - in 1/16" letters, John S Pray & Co Bridgeport CT USA - under the dirt and rus....err patina.

Jim

[Nicholas Lawrence]

I think that may be "Fray", and from the little I know he was an early maker of braces. I have not seen a Fray breast drill. Before doing anything significant to it, it may be worth it to learn more about it.

[Nicholas Lawrence]

Here is a link to a 1911 catalog:

http://zengrain.com/library/catalogs/Fray_Catalogue-No26_1911_small_OCR.pdf

Yours looks a bit like the No. 9 on page 29.