Tool handles, how do you make yours

[William C Rogers]

I have just purchased some Thompson tools, 1/2 and 5/8 bowl gouges and two 1" scrapers. I didn't buy handles as I could buy two tools instead of handles. My plan is to make handles from wood with copper ferruls. I have available, white oak, hickory, and hard maple. I intend to make these 16". The longest handle I have right now is 14". I am open to other handle types. Using wood, do you epoxy the tool in the handle? Does it matter much on wood species?
Thanks

Edit: If you make your handles from aluminum, how? How do you keep the set screws from stripping?

[Russell Neyman]

Pretty simple: I grab a 2x2x15" piece of maple or oak, turn it into a handle, add a piece of copper pipe (for a ferrule) and drill the proper size hole. I've probably made 10-15 of these.

[Doug W Swanson]

http://www.sawmillcreek.org/content.php?133-Tool-handles-for-my-new-Thompson-Tools!

Here's a tutorial on aluminum handles I made for my Thompson tools. Since you don't really need to crank down on the set screws, I haven't had a problem with them stripping. I've used my Thompson tools a lot since I made the handles and I love them....

[david privett]

all three species of wood listed should work well ,thought hickory is used for ax handles for a reason , as for the ring I used a piece of galvanized pipe and pressed it on with bearing press, I made a real tight fit so no adhesive would be required.

[Scott Hackler]

I chuck up a 1 1/2" square spindle, drill the appropriate sized hole in the tail stock end with a Jacobs chuck and bring the tailstock up to that hole. If you don't drill first, you handle wont be 100% centered around the hole. Then it is just about shaping the handle and turning down the end for the copper ferrule. I generally epoxy the ferrule on once it fits and gently turn the glue that squeezed out...off... and turn the copper and end of the tool for a perfect transition. The final is finish and epoxy the steel in the hole. Easy to do and a fairly quick project to save money vs store bought handles. I love the way my Thompson handles wont roll off the lathe bed, but a good wooden handle is hard to beat. I have thought about making a flat side on the next handles using a belt sander.

[Thom Sturgill]

I just described this in another thread. To keep the weight down I use 1" OD 1/8" wall aluminium tubing (not pipe - tubing has a smooth inner surface.) I then buy 3/4" aluminium rod which, with a little sanding, will fit inside the aluminium tubing. I cut a 3-4" piece and drill it to fit the gouge in question. Epoxy this into one end of the larger tube and drill and tap two holes for set screws. I have never had any problems with stripping as I use aircraft aluminium. I standardized on 3/8-16tpi screws as that was the largest I had on some items I had purchased. 1/4-20 works well too.

Vinyl hose from Home Depot or Lowes works well for a covering. Warm it in hot soapy water and it will slide onto the tubing. I use 1 1/4" OD (1" ID) tubing.

On my first handles I bought commercial adapters and then machined my own. They are a little prettier, but the method listed above is much easier and works well. the set screw goes through BOTH layers of metal, so no problem with the epoxy failing.

[Shawn Pachlhofer]

there's a great article with photos that Alan Lacer wrote several years ago available on his website:

http://woodturninglearn.net/

click on "articles" then scroll about 1/3 way down to "forgotten handles"

[Jeffrey J Smith]

I like the feel of unfinished wood handles, but also appreciate the convenience of sharpening without having to dodge the handle. It's also nice to be able to reverse the tool in the handle when traveling. Mike Hosaluk sells nice handles, but he also sells a handle adapter that works well for wooden handles. http://www.hosaluktools.com/index2.php#/gallery1/2/ Just drill the handle blank for the depth you want for your tools, counter drill for the adapter, and insert the adapter and epoxy in place. I put a copper ferrule at the drilled end for a little more security, but I think it may not be necessary. It's the best of both worlds - easy change out and the warmth and grip of wood.

I also splurged on one of the new collet system handles that Robust is selling. They were designed by David Ellsworth and, like everything else Robust sells, they're built like a tank. The handles are unfinished, and contoured to a smooth, rounded triangular profile where your hands go. Full disclosure - I haven't been able to use it yet, it's certainly not the least expensive alternative, but it really is nicely made.

[John K Jordan]

Edit: If you make your handles from aluminum, how? How do you keep the set screws from stripping?

William,

I make all my handles these days. I mostly use Thompson and Hunter tools. For those with round shafts, I make an adapter from aluminum or steel and epoxy it into a handle, usually wooden. For example, some of the handles I use for smaller work, some great Hunter carbide tools here:

328125

These adapters can be purchased from various sources but I prefer to make my own. I make them either out of aluminum or steel. I prefer steel (I have a metal lathe) but did easily make on on my wood lathe using standard tools.

I think the commercial adapters are way too big to hold a small tool comfortably, so I make them much smaller. In the picture, the second one from the top is a typical commercial adapter which I think feels awkward.

As you say, stripping the threads is a concern in aluminum unless you have plenty of threads which means a proportionally larger diameter adapter. Steel is better here since it is very hard to strip. A thing I did on one was offset the hole a small amount to allow more threads on one side. I only catch a couple of threads on my smaller steel adapters and that is enough. In fact, I usually have to grind down setscrews to get them short enough.

If you don't have a metal lathe, I suspect any local machine shop could custom make these simple adapters for a reasonable fee from steel.

For the larger tools the aluminum is fine, but even there steel would be better: the extra weight would be good with big and long tools. I bought some big steel handles once with great spongy rubber wraps and that company made them from a long bar of steel. These are fantastic but I don't think are available any more.

Oh, several reasons I use these adapters rather than gluing the tool into a handle:

- I usually sharpen several identical tools at once and when one gets dull I put a sharp one in the handle and don't have to stop to sharpen.

- Long-handled tools can be unwieldy to sharpen, requiring large swings at the grinder for certain types of grinds.

- For fine spindle work I usually want just a little of the tool extending from the front of the handle. I bore deep holes in all my handles so I can push most of the tool inside. This has another advantage in that I can keep the same extension I'm used to even as the tool gets shorter.

- For delicate detail work, I often use bare tools without handles.

- Keeping a bunch of tools and a few handles at hand takes up MUCH less space!

Tools with flat tangs are different. I have several ideas on how to hold these in an adapter to try when time permits.

JKJ

[William C Rogers]

Good infotmation from all. Just before you posted John I was thinking hybrid metal/wood. I don't have a metal lathe, do may see if I can use something brass. I had done some research, but missed the links provided here. I want to make the tool removable for sharpening, so will think along all metal or metal wood.

[John Lail]

I like making my own handles but I don't use the brass or copper furrele, haven't had a problem without it. I normally make them out of oak but have used maple and black walnut.

[daryl moses]

Made these two handles yesterday. They are made of Hickory because they are tough and I have plenty of it. Since the shafts are square I cut the blanks in half and routed a 1/2 inch groove into each half 1/4 inch deep, 6 inches long and glued them back together. I then turned them between centers. My cutters are supposed to arrive later this week and I will install the shafts into the handles then.

[Brice Rogers]

I've made a bunch of tools and handles. Many of them utilize a 1/2" square bar to hold the carbide insert or to hold a home-made HSS insert. I turn down the end and make it round to make it easy to slide into a wooden handle. I epoxy the round end of the bar to the handle and use a copper ferrule which I usually epoxy as well.

There is a trick to epoxying the round bar into the round hole in the handle. When you slather the wood and/or the bar with epoxy, you'll find that you have created a piston and an cylinder - - you push it in and it wants to push out. Some people brute force it and succeed. If you put way too much epoxy in it, you may even get "hydraulic lock" and I suspect that the compressability of epoxy is like water - - pretty hard to do. So avoid this, I'll take a dremel tool and put a lengthwise groove into the end of the bar that gets glued in. I also avoid putting epoxy into that groove. That way, when I push it in to the handle, the air can come out and if there is excess epoxy in the hole, it will also ooze out. I put painters tape on the bar and on the ferrule to make it easy to clean up.

[John Keeton]

Actually, the only reason to glue a tool in a handle is to prevent twist as the forces of turning will keep it from pulling out. So, I would inserting the shank in the hole and putting just a little epoxy on the last half inch. Makes it much easier to heat that part of the shank to remove the tool if needed.

[Dexter Harris]

John Lail posted above that he doesn't use a ferrule at all. I'm about to make my first one and wonderd about this. I'm sure someone here has tried it. They look cool but are they necessary?

[John Keeton]

Absolutely! A wood handle without a ferrule is a disaster waiting to happen.

[Mike Peace]

Here is a YouTube video I did recently on making handles https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=qVslsr0PLhY

[robert baccus]

Actually I have been using 5-6 gouges with no ferrels. They feel better in the hand. However I like a heavy handle for balance and only use very hard and strong woods--mostly tropicals. Also i leave the thick "bulb on the very front with little if any taper and use epoxy for giggles. Several years with no problems and I am past the beginner stage however.

[John Keeton]

One should plan for the worst case scenario. Shortly after I started turning, I was using a gouge in a beefy hard maple handle I made using the Hosaluk insert. The insert fits into a hole in the end of the handle, but with no ferrule. I happened to let the gouge contact the wood unintentionally, it caught, slammed the gouge against the rest and exploded the handle. Fortunately, the gouge bounced off the wall instead of me.

The ferrule is meant to contain and restrict the longitudinal wood fibers and keep them from splitting. Given the risk I now know, and the minimal cost and effort of a ferrule, I don't understand why one would not use a ferrule. There is a reason why EVERY tool I know of that is sold in a wood handle has a ferrule.

I am sure there are folks that have never had a problem with no ferrule, and for their sake, I hope a similar situation does not occur for them.

[John K Jordan]

ferrule... They look cool but are they necessary?

They can keep the wood of the handle from splitting but you can do the same thing by wrapping the handle with something flexible like wire or cord.

[Geoff Whaling]

I like making my own handles but I don't use the brass or copper furrele, haven't had a problem without it. I normally make them out of oak but have used maple and black walnut.

John & others, have a read of Doc Green's excellent article on tool handles & ferrules. http://www.docgreenwoodturner.com/ferrule.html

Ferrules serve a purpose as an important safety feature on wooden tool handles. Wood chisels split from mallet impacts but don't experience the leverage stresses that wood turning bowl gouges are put through.

The rest of Doc Green's tool handle articles

http://www.docgreenwoodturner.com/maketoolhandle.html
http://www.docgreenwoodturner.com/drilltoolhandle.html

[Geoff Whaling]

Absolutely! A wood handle without a ferrule is a disaster waiting to happen.

Couldn't agree more!

[John K Jordan]

A wood handle without a ferrule is a disaster waiting to happen.

This is a great statement but it might be qualified by one consideration - the kind of turning done. I agree that tools used for many types of turning should definitely have strong handles and strong ferrules, for example bowl gouges and hollowers, scrapers and things that may even occasionally be subjected to strong forces.

Delicate spindle work such as shaping a small finial or using a small negative-rake scraper to smooth end grain on a box lid - not so much. I often use my smaller tools with no ferrules because I use them without handles, often held in one hand. I slip a soft rubber handle over a couple of spindle gouges just for the grip - no strength or length needed for small work. My favorite roughing tool for small diameter spindles is in fact the Thompson 5/8" (St Leger) roughing gouge I've never put in a handle. For my use this does not need a handle - but I certainly would never hand it to a beginner.

But I agree that the general recommendation needs to be a sturdy tool handle, especially to an audience that includes inexperienced turners and face turners.

JKJ

[Roger Chandler]

One should plan for the worst case scenario. Shortly after I started turning, I was using a gouge in a beefy hard maple handle I made using the Hosaluk insert. The insert fits into a hole in the end of the handle, but with no ferrule. I happened to let the gouge contact the wood unintentionally, it caught, slammed the gouge against the rest and exploded the handle. Fortunately, the gouge bounced off the wall instead of me.

The ferrule is meant to contain and restrict the longitudinal wood fibers and keep them from splitting. Given the risk I now know, and the minimal cost and effort of a ferrule, I don't understand why one would not use a ferrule. There is a reason why EVERY tool I know of that is sold in a wood handle has a ferrule.

I am sure there are folks that have never had a problem with no ferrule, and for their sake, I hope a similar situation does not occur for them.

If you are going to make tool handles.......LISTEN to what JK says here! It is the voice of both wisdom and experience! I wholeheartedly concur with his advice!

[Prashun Patel]

And, ferrules don't have to be expensive or fancy to work. Mine are just copper tubing with a little epoxy.

John, if one is willing to make a fat shouldered handle, would the necessity of a ferrule decrease?

[John Keeton]

Prashun, I am not sure which "John" you have referenced, but I will respond.

This is simply a black and white issue for me. The dynamics of wood are pretty fundamental. It takes minimal stress/force to split wood along the grain - think splitting firewood.

I just cannot, for the life of me, understand why someone would even consider a "work around" to avoid using a ferrule when the added effort is extremely minimal and, like you, I use copper pipe so the cost is negligible. Centuries of wisdom just shouldn't be ignored. Ferrules have been in use since some of the earliest hand tools for solid reasons. When I had my "experience" with the catch, the force with which the gouge struck the wall was impressive. The shards of the handle were scattered over the corner of my shop, and the remnants of the handle were yanked from my hand with explosive force. I am absolutely certain that had there been a ferrule, the results would have been quite different, and when it happened I stood in shock of what might have happened to me had the good Lord not been watching out for my inexperience and lack of attentiveness. I would add that I have a lifetime of woodworking experience, even though at the time I was a very inexperienced turner.

While "bulk" surrounding the tool "may" decrease the propensity to split somewhat, it still seems to be flirting with disaster, albeit perhaps on a very slightly reduced "flirt." Again, I just don't understand even the slightest consideration of not using a ferrule and no amount of "I have done it without any problems" would convince me otherwise. I suspect there are those that have consistently driven a vehicle while texting without incident, but as we know, that is not a wise decision.

[John Lail]

I have used and still do use them on bowl gouges or a scraper that has a lot of pressure on it. I make my handles with the end towards the tool end kinda fat but a lil rounded also for appeal.

[Prashun Patel]

JK-

My question was just curiosity. One of the prev posters said a ferrule-less handle had better feel. I inferred it was because he likes the handle fat near the shoulder.

Ok, Self, hands back on the steering wheel now!

SAVE FERRULE!

[Faust M. Ruggiero]

I'm trying to remember the last time I saw a commercially made wooden tool handle without a ferrule. Nope, never saw one without. Think that should tell us anything?
faust

[Geoff Whaling]

Absolutely! A wood handle without a ferrule is a disaster waiting to happen.


Actually I have been using 5-6 gouges with no ferrels. … Several years with no problems and I am past the beginner stage however. :eek:


One should plan for the worst case scenario. … There is a reason why EVERY tool I know of that is sold in a wood handle has a ferrule.


This is a great statement but it might be qualified by one consideration - the kind of turning done. … But I agree that the general recommendation needs to be a sturdy tool handle, especially to an audience that includes inexperienced turners and face turners. JKJ

Another golden rule - NEVER EVER use a hand tool or file etc without a handle. You may get away with it for a while but emergency room statistics will back that one up.

Only recently while at a participation style wood turning event I witnessed a tool handle explode while being made. The relatively experienced turner refused to accept the combined wisdom of several more experienced turners who essentially said “the wood is not suitable for a tool handle.” Sure enough the handle exploded while still being made & the turner lucky not to be injured.

All turners should heed the advice of turners like John Keeton who have experienced such a failure. I would suggest that the scenario John describes that caused the handle failure is not rare and has occurred to most turners, and probably several times. Their recent experience can confirm the wisdom and knowledge accumulated from centuries of wood turning experience and why we use a ferrule on wooden handles! The reported instances of "several years with no problems" is not good advice it simply means the turner has been either lucky or has not experienced the scenario, either through good technique or plain luck, that WILL cause the handles to split.

The properties of wood, the nature of its grain etc means that some woods are more suitable than others to resist the leverage stresses generated in a wood turning tool handle, and particularly with bowl turning tools, gouges and scrapers – or any tool potentially used with longer overhangs.

Over the centuries some basic but largely unwritten rules have been learned. Most writers over look the recommendations for a simple tool handle as a “given” or common knowledge. Doc Green’s articles are very good advice.

Wood turning tool handles made from timber should have,


Timber with interlocking grain – not straight grain.
no cross grain, knots, splits or other defects.
sufficient length to resist the turning and leverage forces from hand turning.
a properly made well fitting (i.e. interference fit) hole to accommodate the full length of the tool tang.
a solid ferrule to prevent splitting of the timber from constant and sudden leverage stresses.
sufficient material between the tang and ferrule to provide shear strength to retain the ferrule should a strong catch occur.
Sufficient material to retain strength for the full length of the handle
a length and profile that is comfortable and ergonomic for the intended turning task.


Finally don’t be lulled into a false sense of security that commercially supplied tool handles or the ferrules supplied on them are “safe”. Some just don’t make the grade particularly those supplied with very large scrapers.

[robert baccus]

The only tools that ever injured me were factory ash handles with a ferrell. Mostly parting tools and one small gouge. The secret is in the wood--Lignum, bubinga,ebony, purple heart, rosewoods ect are so much stronger than Ash it is amazing. Also more split resistant.

[Geoff Whaling]

The only tools that ever injured me were factory ash handles with a ferrell. Mostly parting tools and one small gouge. The secret is in the wood--Lignum, bubinga,ebony, purple heart, rosewoods ect are so much stronger than Ash it is amazing. Also more split resistant.

The secret is in the wood - and in the shape of the handle. I'm curious, any chance of seeing a photo of your tool handle design. Always exceptions to any rule, but I would still be going with ferrules on wood turning tool handles as a pretty universal rule. ;)

[John Grace]

John...Your's is the first comment I've read offering structural reason for the ferrule, I'd always read that they were an aesthetic piece or at best just a way to keep the end of the tool from getting 'beat up'. Thanks for the alternative view-point. I'll be getting a new tool or two this spring and will take your thoughts to heart. John

[John Grace]

All...So, the votes are tallying quickly and it does appear the pro-ferrule group is far ahead, but that said, I've not seen the obvious corollary questions come in so I'll venture forth. As ferrules do seem to be an integral part of making the turning tool, does anyone have pros/cons on whether to use brass or copper? While I cannot remember completely, it seems like I saw a turner on YouTube who had made their handle and glued the correlating brass plumbing fitting on and then 'turned' the brass fitting perfectly round with a carbide tool. Does my memory ring true to any of the more experienced handle makers out there?

[John K Jordan]

glued the correlating brass plumbing fitting on and then 'turned' the brass fitting perfectly round with a carbide tool.

Yes people do this. I've done this. Here is a note a while back on another forum from experienced turner, toolmaker, and good friend John Lucas:

-------------------------------
Posted By:
john Lucas (http://www.woodcentral.com/woodworking/forum/archives_turning.pl/bid/2105/md/profile/id/john+lucas)
Date:
6/29/2005, 6:38 am
Response To:
source of brass ferrules? (http://www.woodcentral.com/woodworking/forum/archives_turning.pl/bid/2105/pro/search/pmd/sread/srchid/125566DakJddgJYRn17t1451578979/spage/1/sanc/75960/sbid/2105/md/read/id/75954/sbj/source-of-brass-ferrules/) (GaryG in MD)

>Gary
This brass tubing can be had at lamp stores. It makes a good Ferrule but is tricky to cut square. I made a wooden mandrel with splits that fits in my chuck. I put the brass on and tap a wedge into the wood madrel to hold it and then turn the cut true. Reverse and turn the other side if necessary.

I prefer Brass nipples from the plumbing store. The brass is much thicker makes a much better ferrul. You could use the same method as above to true up the surface but these are thick enough that you can hold them gently in small jaws for your chuck.

My favorite material is brass compression nuts. Both surfaces are already true. You turn the tenon so the thread is a force fit and thread them on the tenon of the handle. I use a crescent wrench to do this. If it goes on too easily I use some CA glue or epoxy. Then turn the hex sides off. This ferrule won't fall off as the years go by but of course does require that you turn the brass or you can leave it as a hex.
-------------------------------

Note that you do not need to use carbide to turn brass. I turn it on the wood lathe with standard HSS and Thompson tools. I think either brass or copper is fine. I like the look of brass.

BTW, I have seen many effective and safe ways to put handles on tools over the years. I take with a grain of salt the self-appointed experts who state authoritatively the way things need to be done.

JKJ

[John Keeton]

John, your memory is correct on fitting and turning the brass fitting, but I would suggest you consider simply using a piece of copper pipe. IMO it is easier and cheaper. Just check with a plumbing supply, or your plumber, and buy a 12-15" section and you have enough for several handles. Copper will turn and polish easier than brass and it is easily strong enough for a ferrule. The inside diameter of thick wall 1" copper is .995" - enough to allow 1/4" of wood all around a 1/2" tool.

[Geoff Whaling]

John...Your's is the first comment I've read offering structural reason for the ferrule, I'd always read that they were an aesthetic piece or at best just a way to keep the end of the tool from getting 'beat up'. Thanks for the alternative view-point. I'll be getting a new tool or two this spring and will take your thoughts to heart. John

Yes a ferrule is a key structural element of a tool handle.

Alan Lacer offers good advice on making tool handles - http://woodturninglearn.net/articles/forgottenhandle.htm

"Because the area behind the ferrule is a stress area, do not reduce this area less than two thirds the maximum handle diameter. Keep it hefty."

Another great article on custom tool handles by Bill Neddow - http://www.bytownwoodturners.ca/uploads/6/8/9/5/6895829/28_toolhandles_lr0103.pdf

"Ferrules are meant to keep wood handles from cracking or breaking and are necessary for safety."

Brass or copper - depends what you and retailers / manufacturers call "brass." The ferrules supplied on a popular range of wood turning tools is known to split through or near to the stamped dimple they use to help retain the ferrule on the handle as the timber seasonally moves (i.e. shrinks.) When the crack is examined the "brass" has a very grainy structure visible to the naked eye. I much prefer cutting copper plumbing fittings - capillary unions - in half. The unions are (generally) manufactured to a pressure standard so are a "known thing" very unlike "brass" ferrules.

Cracked ferrules should be replaced - if you have a cracked ferrule contact the tool manufacturer as they will often mail out a free replacement.

The second photo shows a standard Sorby large round nosed scraper supplied handled along side the same tool in a custom handle from Kwila (or Johnstone River teak) which is readily available here and has a strong interlocked grain plus a nice heft that I like. Refer to Alan Lacer's quote above - 2/3rds dia - not on the Sorby! (note - the tool tang was not seated fully in the second image when this image was taken)

328291 328292328293

[robert baccus]

Disaster to a cajun is way worse than this. I do use 2" tropical hardwoods and leave a smooth bulb at the metal. Actually I like to use JB weld in the hole which distributes the forces to the entire hole. PS--I have way more experience than John. I think my first lathe was steam powered if I recall.

[robert baccus]

I do use 2" heavy tropicals for handles with a tapered bulb at the metal. I would not use this for scrapers or roughing out tools--some caution is cool. I like to use JB weld in the hole as it strengthens the whole joint. Compared to some incident in my shop, a failure would not be a disaster. PS--I have way more experience than John boy. My first lathe was a steam powered if I recall. Success is a good recommendation.

[John Keeton]

Robert, I am sure neither of us intends this to be personal. Clearly, you have more years at the lathe, but I don't view this as a matter of how many years experience one might have. I am glad you have not been injured, but I am also concerned about the safety of those viewing this thread - over 1400 at this point. I gain nothing by taking the position I have taken on this issue, but if it prevents just one person from being injured that is enough. I wish you good health and a Happy New Year.

[Rich Aldrich]

I haven't read every thread so maybe someone has posted this link. Similar to others descriptions on making lathe tool handles of wood, Doug has this one on his site for handles.

http://thompsonlathetools.com/product-category/handles/

This is the process that I use to make handles. I like Scott Hacklers suggestion of drilling the hole for the tool prior to turning the handle. This different than described in the link above.

[Geoff Whaling]

Robert, I am sure neither of us intends this to be personal. ........I am also concerned about the safety of those viewing this thread - over 1400 at this point. I gain nothing by taking the position I have taken on this issue, but if it prevents just one person from being injured that is enough. I wish you good health and a Happy New Year.

Also my position "if it prevents just one person from being injured that is enough."

There will always be exceptions to any rule. Those who understand the physics, leverage, the properties of wood etc i.e. "the rules" can break them. I fear for those who don't understand the principles behind why a pro turner with 25 years experience can break the rules with impunity from injury.

There is much more going on than just a thicker tool handle from exotics that keeps Robert safe!

I've never had anything more than minor injuries myself (scraped knuckles, minor bruises etc) from using tool handles with ferrules, but I have seen plenty of turners blissfully still using tools with bent tangs, split handles, cracked ferrules or no ferrule at all and also some who have had quite nasty injuries from using poorly maintained or poorly constructed tool handles.

Ultimately it is each turners choice to do what they do, but for the princely sum of about $3 I would invest in the extra protection that a ferrule offers.

[Alan Schwabacher]

The critical feature seems to be tang length. For example, if it went the entire length of the handle, there would be no advantage to a ferrule. If the tang were as short as even the longer one shown in the document on why ferrules are needed for safety, a ferrule would be very helpful. It's a cheap way to save steel, and one you can see by inspection. But you still need to think about why, or you could wind up with a too-small ferrule that is worse than none.

[joe marra]

I repurpose old baseball bats, they work great.

[Geoff Whaling]

The critical feature seems to be tang length. For example, if it went the entire length of the handle, there would be no advantage to a ferrule. If the tang were as short as even the longer one shown in the document on why ferrules are needed for safety, a ferrule would be very helpful. It's a cheap way to save steel, and one you can see by inspection. But you still need to think about why, or you could wind up with a too-small ferrule that is worse than none.

Alan, you raise good points about tool design which btw is always a compromise - economy vs function. I agree a small ferrule could be worse than no ferrule at all in some instances which is why I posted the middle photo in my post #37 above.

All turners should understand how far the tool tang or how far a round bowl gouge shaft should be embedded into a tool handle, how much timber should be between the ferrule and tool tang, the more preferred profiles wrt strength of timber etc when making their own tool handles - all stuff largely overlooked now as we are loosing that sort of knowledge.

[Reed Gray]

Well, I just got back in town from a week off visiting family and found this one. For handles, I prefer straight wood cylinders, no bumps, no humps, and fairly large diameter. The thin wall aluminum handles just feel too light. The shot filled handles are way too heavy. Wood is just right. Just about any species of wood will work, but hickory is one of the best. I have a lot of madrone handles, some ash, cherry, walnut, and even a couple of ones made from gluing up some 1/2 inch by 13 veneer layers of plywood. For round tangs/shafts, I drill out round holes. For scraper and skews with rectangular tangs, I make a sandwich handle (video coming soon) where the center piece is the exact same thickness as the tang, and I cut out a mortice for the tang, then glue the 'bread' onto the outside. Round holes just don't work right for me, even if I glue them in to place. No square peg in a round hole.

I like the thick, as in about 1/8 inch wall thickness brass for ferules. I have a number of the old ash handle tools from Craft Supplies. One cracked when a friend had a good, well maybe bad catch. I have a couple of others that have cracked from stress from the indent they use to keep the ferrule from coming off. The ferrule is to add strength to the weak part of the handle. You have a piece of metal going into wood and it is in line with the grain. The solid piece of wood is way stronger than the piece with the hole in it. Once the hole is drilled, you have a round splitting wedge that is also kind of a fulcrum point. If you do nothing but gentle bevel rubbing high shear angle cuts, never get any type of catch, and your blanks are all running true and round before you cut, you will most likely be safe. Scraping cuts will add more force to the handle, and roughing out chain sawn blanks will do the same thing. So, if you don't want to use a ferule, you are taking a risk. I did take a trip down to Arizona once with my tools, and all of the ferules came loose. Even during the wet season up here, they are a bit loose. I may have to epoxy them back on some day. There is seasonal movement with all of them, and even without taking them to Arizona, some get loose.

robo hippy

[robert baccus]

Copper ferrules are necessary on many tools--anything with a tang for sure. Most of my 63 tools have one by me or the factory but long round shafts as from like Thompson's allow some variation. I practiced forestry and played with wood tech for many years--this is not for beginners for sure. The price is not a factor--I have a drawer full. Woods vary greatly in their many properies and can be referenced.

[Marvin Hasenak]

On my bands I pin them on. I turn the tenon a little oversized at the base and the top on the money. Then force fit the band on, then drill 3/32" holes about 3 times, I only drill the hole about a 1/4" deep. I use 3/32" brass brazing rods for my pins, they come in 36" lengths, then cut them in 3/4" long pieces. I round one end of the pin to go into the drilled hole. A drop of CA in the hole and drive the pin in, snip off the excess and file smooth.

If you do all of this before installing the chisel, you can also remount the handle on the lathe and clean up the brass pin heads, and sand and polish the bands. This is how most duck callmakers pin their bands on duck calls. Weather doesn't effect them, I have some that have been on a duck call for over 50 years.

Want to make pretty snazzy ferules, use schedule 40 PVC, and pin them on the same way. The schedule 40 PVC has the same structural strength that a piece of plumbing pipe has.