First Accoustic Guitar Build

[Michael Moscicki]

The woodworker in me has decided that if I want to learn how to play a guitar, I have to build one for myself and then one for a close friend in exchange for lessons.

The kit I am interested in is from StewMac:
StewMac Dreadnought Acoustic Guitar Kit, Dovetail Neck, Torrefied Top, Mahogany Back
http://www.stewmac.com/Materials_and_Supplies/Instrument_Kits/Acoustic_Guitar_Kits/StewMac_Dreadnought_Acoustic_Guitar_Kit.html

I don't have a band saw or a jointer yet, so that is the reasoning for going with a kit. From doing research there is still a lot of work that needs to be done to the kit aside from gluing it up. The kit comes with detailed instructions, but a Luthier's bible or two might be added to my library.

I consider myself an average woodworker at best, and I have no guitar skills.

Some questions:
Are there any tools that I need that I can't get by without? StewMac has tool sets, so that gives me an idea of what I need. Who needs an excuse to buy tools, right? Although I would prefer tools that I could use in other aspects of woodworking.

Tool Set for Building a Dreadnought Guitar Kit includes:
#0862 6" Fret Leveler File
#0842 Luthier's File Set
#2062 0.340" Peghead Bushing Reamer
#0654 Rectangular Scraper Blade
#3850 18" Precision Straightedge
#1296 Deadblow Fretting Hammer
#3227 Bridge Pin Hole Reamer
#1602 Medium 3-Corner Fret Dressing File
#4905 StewMac Shop Rule
#1939 Fret Dressing Stick with 14 Micro-Mesh Belts
#0619 Fret Cutters
#0827 0.016" Nut Slotting File
#0832 0.035" Nut Slotting File
#1298-B Binding Router Bit
#1298-060 0.060" Binding Router Bearing
#1298-200 0.200" Binding Router Bearing

Can the Earlex HV5500 Spray Station give me a good looking finish on a guitar when spraying guitar lacquer? StewMac also has a finishing kit(single use spray cans), but for a $110 for one guitar, I might as well spend some more money now and get something I could use in the future.

The big question:
How daunting was it when you built your first guitar?

Thank you in advance for your advice.

[Mark Greenbaum]

All of the tools listed are great, but, I'd start with the kit and see what is required to complete it without any tools. Obviously, you'll need plenty of the appropriate spool and luthiers clamps, and deep throated clamps to set the bridge. The fretboard, will require a small dead blow hammer or a smooth faced jeweler's or brass hammer would suffice. Save the money from tools not purchased to get really great tuners, and top of the line purfling and rosette. It seems the gluing up of the top and back to the sides will require molds for the correct contours, and turnbuckle expansion clamps to spread the sides out. Get the kit, and ready the bible. It's still going to be a lot of work, not a one night project. Oh, and learn how to French Polish, so you won't have to spray. It's the traditional old school method to get lustrous finish that is repairable, and durable.

In your neck of the woods is a guy whose moniker on the TDPRI is "Henderson Is Go". He's been to luthier school, young, and creates beautiful instruments. Check his builds out for the really right way to build.

[george wilson]

Back in the 50's and into the 60's,if I'd had all those tools,I think I could have built a half sized model of the Empire State Building!!:)

[Scott DelPorte]

A lot of that stuff is nice, but I think you can get by just fine without much of whats on the list. I love Stew Mac, but sometimes joke with other guitar building buddies about how they have a $30 specialized tool for every task. Especially fretting and set up. I guess if you want advise on mandatory tools to get that you can use for other stuff, I would recommend you stock up on clamps. I like the cam clamps and use them all the time, but thats just a personal preference.

[David Falkner]

Can't agree more on getting clamps. You just can't ever have enough. And any project that requires the acquisition of new (or new to you) tools is a good project! Be sure to post plenty of photos.

I'm building my first from scratch (and second at the same time, actually) but am taking the chicken's approach on photos - I'll post them when I string up the first one and it stays together under string tension. ;)

[george wilson]

I have a ton of cam clamps that I made-at least 24. However,when you get them ALL on a guitar body in a mold,it gets heavy and cumbersome. Therefore I now use those black plastic clamps. They used to be $16.00 per pair (I think),but I stocked up. They are both lighter and less WIDE when gluing the top or back on the guitar. Much easier to handle.

I still use 3 cam clamps(deep throat ones) for gluing the bridge on. I cut off wood at an angle on the lower jaws so they'd clear the back struts when getting them into the soundhole.

I agree about Stewmac: They have invented so many un needed gizmos it's pretty ridiculous! Some of the stuff like they sell are fluff for beginners.

You don't need a "turnbuckle spreader" for getting the sides out against the mold. Make them fit in the first place. At the most,just cut a piece of narrow wood that spans the waist section,and pushes the waist out. That's all you need.

Not good to have to force your guitar to fit together. Sooner or later,it may pop loose because it's still under tension. Hurts the tone,too.

[Michael Moscicki]

Thanks for the replies. I had a feeling about the tools, but just wanted to be set straight. I watched some videos on french polishing a guitar and that will be the way I go. I will post pictures as the project is going along, even when I make a mistake or two or three or more.

[Shawn Pixley]

I built mine without 60% of those tools (most of the fret tools specifically). Not knowing the kit, I want to know how you would shape the neck without a good rasp. As George mentions, where are the spool clamps?

[george wilson]

For quite a few years,starting in the 50's,my only plane was a Stanley block plane. I had a few cheap 50 cent chisels without bolsters,and yellow plastic handles. Stamped from 1/8" thick steel. My only sharpening stone was a cheap gray hardware quality one. I don't even recall what clamps I had-I may have borrowed some from the school shop when I had to glue tops and backs on. In the 18th. C. shop,we TIED tops and backs on with twine,the way dirt poor Spanish guitar makers have been doing for countless years. It worked great,particularly with those vaulted back guitars which regular clamps would have slid off of. The top would have the sides lashed down to it when the guitar was still in the mold. To glue the back on,we used a guitar shaped piece of pine,with nails driven all around the perimeter,sticking straight out. This is where the twine would be lashed,then up and over the back many times. I'd STILL do this if I was building vaulted backs. Every little spot could be given attention with this "crude" but effective lashing method. And,no damage was incurred on the instrument,the twine being softer than clamp jaws.

I bent my sides for MANY years over a 2" copper pipe with a propane torch sticking inside it. We used alcohol lamps inside a large(about 5" across the long axis) oval copper pipe in the 18th. C. shop. The fumes I could have done without!! I should have gotten non denatured alcohol,but didn't think of it. It was $30.00 a gallon,at that time,I think. Permit req'd.

I had a cheap crosscut saw and an old back saw. I did much of the carving on necks with my pocket knife.

[Mitch Barker]

I knew there were other woodworkers out there who felt compelled to build a guitar before learning to play. I built the same stew Mac kit but with rosewood back and sides. Stew Mac has great service. They even replaced the back and sides with a new set because of unattractive grain. Emails were answered by an expert within a day.

Also, join kitguitarsforum.com. It's a very active board with lots of beginners, serious amateurs and pros. As an aside, a discussion on humidity in Baltimore led to a small group in the area getting together a couple of times to check out each others projects.

Speaking of humidity, extremes must be avoided. Keeping the shop around 40 to 50 % RH while building should allow the guitar to handle the seasons.

The hardest part for me was ignorance of all the angles and how they will affect your ability to get the neck setup just right. If you use the internal cardboard mold, pay really close attention the the angle of the neck block to your work board. Kitguitarmanuals.com sells an ebook filled with diagrams to help you understand all the angles. (Similar website name, but as far as I know, not related to kitguitarsforum.com)

i second the recommendation for french polish. I learned the technique and it is a lot easier than I thought - and the look of amber shellac, IMHO, blows away the super glossy lacquer finish.

Mitch

[Mitch Barker]

Consider the bolt on neck. It's a lot simpler to set up than trying to get your head around which part of the dovetail to shave to change the neck angle a half degree.

Harbir or freight has 6" deep c clamps to glue on the bridge and a 24" adjustable square for cheap that's good for setting up the neck.

Mitch