Trying to rehab an oldie

[steven c newman]

The second of two jack planes that came in the mail. Needed a new handle, iron was in bad shape. Wedge was beat up and craked.

Found a pattern of sorts. Cut out a new handle from some Walnut. Old handle had almost an entire roll of black tape around it, was held in place with a pair of 2" long finish nails. Got all that chopped and pulled out. Found I needed a piece to fill in a "basement" that was under the handle.
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Rough shaped, and then glued in place. No nails..this time.
As for that handle?
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Had to add a bit to the bottom of the pattern. Still needs a lot of sanding down. I also flattened the sole
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until a straightedge said it was flat
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Sides were cleaned of old finish, too. Now, about that wedge..
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Made a new one from Maple. iron was chipped, needs a new edge ground, and then sharpened up. Chipbreaker has been cleeaned and tuned. Put the parts together, to keep track of everything
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Sooo, I get the handle finished up, get the iron sharpened up, and figure a way for the handle to stay put. It might get a slotted screw as a toe bolt. Maybe by the new year, I might have the Auburn Tool Co. Thistle Brand Jack plane ready for work? Camber the iron? Or..leave the edge straight across.

[Allan Speers]

Nice work!

- but what is your plan for the mouth? That seems to be your main problem.

[steven c newman]

This will be a jack plane, not a smoother. @ 15" long, will be a cambered jack. Need that room for large chips to come through. The iron is quite thick, and tapered. I doubt if it was designed to make micron thin shavings. I have a Stanley #122 for that sort of thing.

Handle now has a toe bolt. Glued the handle in place, and added the slotted screw and washer. Screw is 2" long.

Will need to take a cup of water down to the shop....have an edge to re-grind, and sharpen up. May get a 9"radius camber.

Have added a coat of poly...to seal this VERY dried out wood. Left the sole alone, as it will just get a coat of wax. MIGHT be able to make a few shavings by the weekend.

[Barry Dima]

The iron is quite thick, and tapered. I doubt if it was designed to make micron thin shavings.

Hey Steven, I just picked up a long wooden jointer, and its blade is the same. Mind expanding on thickness and taper could make "micron thin shavings" hard? (Or am I relating things that aren't related?)

Just for context, I'm not as worried about getting gossamer shavings from the jointer so much as learning more about blades and planes.

[steven c newman]

Here is it's "twin" I also got done
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This is about as close to them "Micron thin shavings" as it will get.
The irons on both planes taper from a thin end at the "top" to a very thick end. Then, adding the 25 degree bevel....takes up a lot of room down on the business end. taper makes the bevel end about twice as thick. It could cut those ultra thin shavings...but these two planes are Jack planes. They aren't not really for smoothing. They need a more "open" mouth to allow thicker shavings to go through.

Others on here might be able to tell you more about the taper and thickness thing. The bevel on the second plane's iron was almost 3/8" wide. I will be adding a camber to the edge...later.

[steven c newman]

Ok, here is the cambered edge, awaiting the oil stones....
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Took awhile, both to get rid of a large chip out on a corner, and to grind the camber. I also got the back fairly flat
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And, mated the chipbreaker to it. Set it up in the completed body
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and worked over a bit of Walnut..
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Was taking fairly thick shavings, but nothing seemed to get stuck. Mostly the shaving would shoot up out of there.
As for a smoother plane..
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This No. 035 seems to do ok, for a fifty cent plane..
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as for the first Jack plane?
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Still need to tighten down the handle. Soo, now I have these three to find a home for..
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And just sitting on my bench just won't do....