Can't Remove Router Bit

[Doug Hobkirk]

I was unable to remove a router bit from my Hitachi M12VC Router.

The bit has been in there at least six months -

In retrospect, I guess I should remove bits after I've finished
But it was set for making dados on my EZ rail system, and I like having the rig already dialed in, so removing the bit means I've got to dial it in again


The bit and inner collar spin freely inside the locking cap nut (?)
I've used penetrating oil
I've inserted the router bit into a deep socket and rapped on the bottom of the bit, trying to drive it down

Not too hard, mostly trying to "shock" the stiction (I think the top of the inner collar wedges into the cap collar nut, which would tighten the collar)


I've pushed a screwdriver into each of the 4 slits (I highlighted the one I butchered)


328011 328012 328013

What? How? Where? When? Who?

Obviously I need help!
Thanks.


PS - Is this Hitachi collar system is prone to problems?

[Dimitrios Fradelakis]

If you don't mind destroying the bit have you tried a bearing puller?

[Myk Rian]

Put it in the freezer overnight.

[Keith Mathewson]

Try penetrating oil, wait ten minutes and heat it a bit with a torch. Should come free.

[Cody Kemble]

I have the same problem with my m12 right now but my bit is lodged in the router. I have no idea what to do. Mine stays in my horizontal table and rarely gets changed.

[Bruce Page]

If all else fails put it back in the deep socket and drive it out. Use a block of wood to prevent the bit end from mushrooming. I suspect once you break it free it will come out easily. I would not reuse the nut.

[pat warner]

Support the nut on/in a press.
Start pushing on the shank.
Report on what the adhesive was.
And get a something like a Milwaukee, the best of collets in the 5600 series routers.

[Jim Dwight]

Is it possible the bit got too low in the collet and the collet is on the transition radius, not the bit straight shank? In any event, I would probably clamp the nut in a wooden vise and tap on the back of the bit with a dead blow mallet. If you don't have a dead blow, use a wooden dowel. You can also use locking pliers on the nut if it helps you set it up for some tapping.

I've had bits get locked in a collet reducer by rust. That may also be what you are dealing with. I leave bits in all the time but sometimes they get stuck too. I don't think the Hitachi collet is bad but my later PC collets are made such that you have to keep unscrewing them until you hit the release point. Doesn't appear the Hitachi works that way. Not entirely a bad thing but may make sticking more likely.

[Ronald Blue]

You can sit the assembly cutter end down in a vice and close the jaws until they are touching the router bit. Index it so the smallest part of the bit is turned to keep make it as narrow as possible to maximize how much of the nut is engaged with the jaw tops. You can use a brass hammer, dead blow hammer, or a block of wood if you wish. A couple raps will probably suffice but in case it doesn't you can drive it down until you are flush with the collet top and then use a punch to drive it on out. You will then be able to assess if there is rust causing the tightness. Jim suggested basically he same method. It will work I assure you.

[Robert Engel]

What Ronald^ said. This is just corrosion and being wedged in the collet for a while.
I've had this happen and just a few taps will free it up. I can't imagine it lodged so badly to resort to heat, etc.

When you get it out, be sure to ream the bore with some 400 grit sandpaper wrapped around an appropriate sized drill bit. Spray with rust remover first.
Do the same with all the router bit shafts.

Looks like you've buggered the flanges with the screw driver so when you get it out remove any burrs.

Lesson: Don't leave router bit in router for 6 months (now how do I know that?)

[Bill Orbine]

Worst case scenario is you possibly spun the bit..... effectively "weld" the shaft to collet. Can be very difficult to remove. OR damaged beyond repair. Let's hope not.