Panel saw-how to eliminate tearout?

[Jonathan Freinkel]

I have a vertical panel saw and have many problems with tearout.

I have alve tried cleaning and replacing the blade but feel like there is something I am missing.

has anyone tried a "zero clearance type" back piece to avoid giving it place to splinter?
i have tried blue tale with limited success ...


any helps appreciated!

[Gerry Grzadzinski]

On my home built panel saw, I use a Forrest Duraline Hi/AT blade, and get pretty clean cuts on both side.

We used to have a Holz-her panel saw that had scoring knives to eliminate chipping.

[John Lankers]

You can try to attach a zero clearance plate with double stick tape, play with the depth of cut and go slow.

[Martin Wasner]

When bringing the saw up, set the depth so it's just scoring the material. Then just plunge to full depth and complete your cut.

[Michael Zerance]

What saw is it? What blade are you using? What material are you cutting?

I have the same issues with my Safety Speed Cut 6800. For that reason, I really only use the panel saw to break down sheet goods into more manageable pieces that I can cut cleanly on the table saw. If you can get away with the back side having tearout, you can put the good side against the frame. I lined all the frame members with uhmw tape so that it won't scratch the surface and it helps it slide better. I can get reasonably good cuts on most material (except for cross cutting plywood) using a fresh blade. However, they never come out clean enough to use as an exposed or finished edge without some kind of finishing work.

One thing to check would be that the blade is aligned correctly. If the saw carriage is skewed, even slightly, the blade will not track straight and this would cause excessive tearout. You can check this by cross cutting into a sheet approx. 12", stop the saw motor, raise the carriage and check the cut. If there is a visible saw mark where the back of the blade was stopped and the cut line is not smooth and straight, then the carriage is most likely skewed and would need adjusted.

[Harry Holzke]

I can't believe you posted this. I was looking around the web last night about the same thing. Mine is the SS SR5 that I got second hand and have the same problem. Someone recommended this Freud blade http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000A2R9GQ?psc=1&redirect=true&ref_=ox_sc_sfl_title_1&smid=ATVPDKIKX0DER. Will give it a try.

Harry

[Michael Zerance]

I can't believe you posted this. I was looking around the web last night about the same thing. Mine is the SS SR5 that I got second hand and have the same problem. Someone recommended this Freud blade http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000A2R9GQ?psc=1&redirect=true&ref_=ox_sc_sfl_title_1&smid=ATVPDKIKX0DER. Will give it a try.

Harry

Let us know how it works out for you, please.

[Harry Holzke]

Let us know how it works out for you, please.

Just ordered, will have it next week and report back.


Harry

[larry senen]

never had any luck with a tcg blade on plywood. i use an atb on my ssc saw and have minimal tear out. as posted elsewhere, i do a finish cut on the table saw. but if i had a 1/2" of tear out on each end i'd be looking for a solution also.

[Martin Wasner]

I use a hollow grind tooth on the Striebig, but I kinda feel the original poster is talking about a panel saw more like the safety speed cut with a handheld circular saw mounted to it rather than something like a Holz-Herr or Striebig. In which case you've got no depth control and I'm not that style of blade is available or even worthwhile.

Would doing a through climb cut help? Might be borderline impossible on solid but mdf or a particle board core might not be too difficult?

[Jonathan Freinkel]

Wow, lots of replies!


I have a speedycut(I think) saw with a beefed up circular saw mounted in it. It uses an 8" blade. I have tried to use it for rough cutting pieces but get upset when I lose a factory edge and then have to try cut to size on the cabinet saw,


Unfortunately I have no depth control on the panel saw. I was thinking about going to a 7.25 " blade and seeing if that helped. I have a Forrest blade in it. It's designed for panel saws and is straight. I've done the 5 cut method and it's been within .0125 over a two foot length.


I'll try the tape and check back. If anyone has any sage advise not mentioned already ..it would be appreciated!

[Andrew Joiner]

I had a new Safety Speed Cut in the 70's. It had a Skill brand saw. I got zero tear out with it for the 25 years it was cutting. I used a negative rake blade.
I made my own panel saw that I use now and I get no tear out with it even with cheap blades.

Do you get even tear on both sides of the cut? If it's one sided I think your saws not tracking straight.

Does your machine have the Milwaukee saw? If so buy(or make) the part that allows you to raise the blade like a portable circular saw. If you raise the blade to just cut 1/16" deep on the first pass you will get minimal tear out. If you climb cut this first pass you'll get no tear out. It's best to clamp the panel in place for this as any movement will ruin the process. Then drop it to full depth for a second/final cut.
A zero clearance piece may help on perfectly flat panels. It would need to be spring loaded to press firmly on warped or thin panels.

[Kevin Russell]

Misalignment with the panel saw possibly? Sounds like it may not be cutting parallel or maybe the platform is bowed causing it to pinch.

I don't have a panel saw yet but when I cut plywood with a guide, I get very minimal tear-out with a 24t diablo framing blade. I typically use the circular saw to cut the plywood into manageable pieces then finish then up on the table saw so the circular saw tear-out isn't an issue. When I get my panel saw built, I'll use a finer tooth blade so I don't have to go back to the table saw to finish up the pieces.

[Bill Orbine]

Misalignment can be the problem. And make sure the motor carriage isn't racking. Keep the runners cleaned and waxed so carriage glides smoothly with minimal effort. I use a good Diablo blade (either hi alternate bevel or laminate blade) on my SSC 6800 with virtually no tearouts on both sides with no zero clearance! The 6800 is the main machine for crosscutting plywood substrates perfectly square and clean! Maintenance is the key and it is minimal.

[Robert Engel]

What they said about racking and tracking.
For plywood the best blade possible.
I've also had very good luck with the Diablo blades (not panel saw, but circular saw w/ track guide system)