craftsman 10" bandsaw

[Tom M King]

I had ordered one of these for 179.99 to be sent to my local sears store on Nov. 25. I just picked it up today, and noticed that the price had dropped: http://www.craftsman.com/craftsman-1-3-hp-3.5-amp-10inch-band-saw/p-00921400000P?sid=IDxCMDFx20140801x001&KPID=00921400000 They gave me the refund on another purchase I made for the difference.

This really is the exact same saw as the Rikon 10". It's a decent little toy bandsaw. I needed one to use up on a roof, and this will be a lot easier to get up there than the 14" cast iron Delta. It was already assembled except for putting the table on, and the fence, but I don't need the fence for what we're going to do with it anyway. The guides needed adjusting, but we had it together and up and running good in no more than ten minutes. It was very well packed with custom Styrofoam in a plastic wrapped box.

While there was no shipping fee getting it sent for pickup in the store, it did take several weeks. The several weeks didn't bother me since I don't need it yet anyway. When I ordered it last month, Woodcraft had it on sale for around 200 bucks, and Highland also, but Highland had a 46 dollar surcharge on top of the shipping for the Rikon, and shipping wasn't going to be cheap.

It's a surprisingly decent little saw for the money, and if you've been thinking about one, I doubt there will be a better deal. My other bandsaws are a fine tuned, aftermarket decked out old Delta 14" with riser, and a 24" Centauro running overclocked speed 10% by a VFD pulling a 1" Woodmaster CT 1.3 TPI. This little one is a good addition.

[Larry Frank]

I have the Rikon version and very happy with it. It fits between my16" Jet Bandsaw and Hegner Scroll Saw. I use it for making toys and small projects. I added a Carter Stabilizer and it allows me to cut small diameter cuts.

[Andrew Hughes]

Bandsaw on the roof? Sounds interesting and dangerous I like it!😎

[Tom M King]

I have a few hundred fantail hip shingles to get tapers cut on. Each one will need to be marked in place on the side to be cut. I'm planning to hold it where I want it, mark top and bottom ends of the cut, sight those marks to edge of sled, clamp with self-adjusting DeStaco's, and slide it through the little saw using the runner under the sled and table slot.

[Michael Stein]

I have a few hundred fantail hip shingles to get tapers cut on. Each one will need to be marked in place on the side to be cut. I'm planning to hold it where I want it, mark top and bottom ends of the cut, sight those marks to edge of sled, clamp with self-adjusting DeStaco's, and slide it through the little saw using the runner under the sled and table slot.


I, too, have that saw, along with a Rikon 10-325, and it is a great little saw. I use it more than the Rikon, honestly.

[David Malicky]

I have this saw, too, and really like it. I spent about an hour tuning it and can now resaw pretty well -- except for the first ~1" of entry (drift not corrected yet), from 3" stock it is cutting 0.060" slices +/- 0.004". Pic attached. Lots of blade squeal, though, both with the stock blade and an Olson 3/8" x 0.020" x 4 tpi flexback. Tension set by Phil Thien's calculator (and higher).

3/8" is a good size for me -- I do a mix of straight cuts, light resaw, and gentle contours. I'd like to find a 3/8" blade, around 3 or 4 tpi (preferably variable pitch), either flexback or bimetal.
- The only option I can find is Morse Matrix II:http://www.mkmorse.com/products/index.aspx?product=42 which is 3/8 x 0.025" x 4, bimetal
- There are 0.035" blades, but I assume that's too thick for a 10" wheel and this motor.
- There is the softer Kerfmaster/Woodslicer, but I've heard they aren't for contours, and a 1/2" blade would put the teeth at the front of the crown.
Any thoughts on those or other blades for it?
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