Building stairs in new construction

[Craig Zettle]

We are putting in two sets of stairs, from landing to basement, and landing to living area. Owner has already decided to use yellow pine stringers (3) with pine risers and tread and wants me to put oak risers and treads on top of the pine. Both sets of stairs are closed on both sides,(walls) and are being built as we go, not as a unit. So what is the best way for me to attach the oak to the pine? He said to drill holes and plug, but is there a better way? Since it is new construction, I might be able to get underneath them if I absolutely had to by cutting some drywall.
He has already started, so there is no turning back. It's kind of like veneering the stairs with oak.
One other thing, I am assuming the treads need to be at least two pieces glued up with the grain reversed to keep from cupping, or is it ok to use one solid piece? Any treads I've ever seen at Lowes are 3-4 pieces glued up.
As you can see, I have never done interior stairs before.

[Richard Wolf]

By no means is this the way to do this, and a sin to do it this way in new construction.
Why don't you rip out the SYP risers and treads and replace them with the oak?
If you must continue in this direction let me see if I can answer a few of you question. Using one piece treads is not a problem if you have a source for 5/4 oak that is wide enough. I assume there is an overhang on each pine tread (bullnose) which should be cut off flush to the riser. The new risers should be thin, (1/2 inch) maybe even 1/4 inch oak ply. Glue and brad nail these in place. Add the treads, glue and screws will work, when you plug the screw holes use face grain plugs (make your own, to match color) and they will disappear. Use PL sub floor construction glue.

Here's where your problem is, if you add 1" tread to every step (say your rise is now 7 1/2") your first step will become 8 1/2" and your top step will become 6 1/2" rise. This situation is dangerous and will not meet code. Unless you have a way to address this situation you have a real problem.
I realize you have a thick homeowner trying to dictate how to do something, but this is the wrong direction.
Please get back to me for additional help when you need it.

Richard

[Roger Everett]

Craig:
This sounds like what the builders do in my area. The framers put in the rough carriage and sub risers and sub treads.
First the outside stringers are nailed to 2x4's ,that are nailed to the wall framing. The 1 1/2" allows room for the 1/2" drywall and 3/4" skirtboards.
The first thing I do is chase the stairs ( measure all the runs and rises to make sure it's within code. Paying particular attention to the top and bottom sub tread, as you will be putting a 1 to 1 1/16" tread on top of the sub tread and most likely a 3/4" landing cap on landing and top of stairs. Code is max. 3/16" difference between adjoining , with a max of 3/8 total in total run, and rise. Many times I have to make adjustments to rough carriage to get legal. Either because framers don't know what is finish floor will be or because most of them don't speek english.
Once you do the chase, install the stringers. Many times the the sub riser isn't perfectly straight ( bowed out or in), so I as a practice put a pc. of 1 1/2" x 1/8x heigth of riser , on each side of sub riser, glue and nail ( must do all to keep runs the same). I buy ready made treads ( less time consuming then making). Cut tread to depth + 1 1/4" (nosing), ripping with about a 2-3º angle, scribe to width ( I use a homemade stair gauage to give a grew there fit). Put a bead of const. adh. on sub tread at bottom of riser ,along each side , across riser and about 3 waving lines about where stringer are ( the 2-3º rip of rear of tread elimates squeeze out). Install tread with 3 -15 ga. X 2 1/2 nails and 2 or 3 down center ( trying to nail at the where the stringer are
). Here you can counter bore and screw and plug if you want , but the nail holes are easy to fill and make disappear. Also if there is ever a problem like a squeeker or bad tread if it's screwed in from top and plugged or from underneath you will play hell getting it up. I might add I've never had a squeeker glueing and nailing down. After nailing down tread I have precut 3/4" strips in 1/32 to 1/16 , that I put in center of riser or in 2 spots to bring riser air tight to tread and 1 or 2 nails to hold. This brings riser tight and glue will do the anti-squeek thing.
Readymade treads are generally made up of 2 1/2 to 3" strips , to make them more stable.
HTH , if you need any more info, feel free to e-mail me
Roger

[Craig Zettle]

Thanks for the reply Richard. (I was worried you were on vacation this weekend!)

The owner did in fact take in account the rise and allowed for the additional height of laying a step on a step. He had me quite confused when he was laying it out, but now I understand his math. I think he just wants a really solid run of stairs. There is no bullnose to cut off, the subtread is flush to the riser.

I am going to try to locate some oak now. I'll keep you posted if this goes bad.

Thanks again, Craig

Thanks also to Roger also (your post came in while I was responding to Richard)