Straightening/resawing (very) hard maple.

[Robert Engel]

A few years ago I bought a 5" thick maple slab and had it rough cut to 5x5's for a workbench build.
Just pulled it all out yesterday and some if it is quite wavy along the length - too much to pass over jointer it will need one edge straightened.

All I know is this stuff is heavy and seems hard, and I mean HARD.

Figuring on making a resaw sled have a 2HP bandsaw with 1" resaw blade (not carbide).
I'm thinking my Woodslicer will quickly be dull.

I'm considering taking to a friend with a bandsaw mill just to slice them straighter.

I'm also considering making a planer sled.

I'm going to give the resawing a stab but really not looking forward to this job!!

What do you all think?

[John K Jordan]

You didn't say how long the pieces are.

If relatively short I just freehand with my bandsaw (18") with a 3 tpi blade. Should cut hard maple without a problem.

If the pieces are long I do find it easier to use my woodmizer mill - it is perfect for that. A 5" wide board is practically nothing compared to a log. You might gang and cut several at once. That's how I straighten one edge of air dried boards. Note that if you try to save wood with a skimming cut you might need to go slow to keep the blade from rising.

But a possible concern. In my experience a 5x5 may not yet be dry inside after 5 years which might cause more warping and other problems. The "1 year per inch plus one year" is only a rule of thumb and even then is aimed at boards. Maybe there is some way to cut through the middle of one and check it with a moisture meter. Slice one down the middle and if still wet inside just slice them all and dry a few more years. Thin boards glue up just fine to make a thick workbench. Or could you get 5x5 maple kiln dried first? Maybe someone in the sawmill section here could advise.

I cut lots of blocks for woodturning. Some have been air drying for over 10 years and I'm still not convinced they are ready to use. Maybe try the weight method? Weigh one carefully, then wait another year and see if the weight is still changing. This needs accurate scales.

JKJ

[Andrew Hughes]

I think you should carry on with your tools.Just get more blades woodslicer blades are great.Ive used them for cutting laminted glue ups were saving every piece was needed.For general resawing you can do just fine with some new blades.Olsen,Morse simonds all good stuff.If you have a mill cut it you might loose alot of your wood to a saw kerf.
And you won't have the satisfaction of conquering the maple.
And I kown want your mean by its HARD.Great stuff.👍

[keith wootton]

i would knock off very highest spots with hand plane or power planer, then run through jointer. 5"x5" may take two guys if it is long. talk process over w/ helper unless they are experienced. and hearing and eye protection for them. that is jointers job, to straighten boards. i commonly have to remove up to a half inch on white oak boards i mill and dry my self. i usually mill close to final size (still likely have some faint chainsaw marks at this point) and let it sit on edge in shop for a few days. then go to final dimension.

[Peter Quinn]

I've been there, nothing is truly to wavy for the jointer, but you can cut weight faster on the bandsaw. I'd draw a straight line on the piece in question, cut off the peaks on the bs, and head to the jointer. Less time then picking the stuff and taking it somewhere else.