Router table router

[Izzy Camire]

Hi Folks,
I am thinking of getting a new router for the router table. I was thinking something in the 3 1/4hp range. I'd welcome any recommendations. What are you guys using for this application.
Izzy

[Ray Newman]

At one time I had a Porter-Cable 690 plunge base router in my router table. Despite is relatively light weight, I found the plunge base to be apply described as a PITA to change height settings -- even with the spring(s) removed.

Now have a Porter-cable 7518 3 horse power mounted in a router table. But 3+ horse power routers are heavy and bulky. To overcome this, I installed a router lift.

[Robert Chapman]

Check the Triton. It has its own lift built in. I have had two of them with no problems.

[Rich Riddle]

Like many others here, I have the Porter Cable 7518. It's probably the most common router in a router table out there. Consequently most lifts specifically ensure they are fitted for that router.

[Steve Wurster]

I have the big Milwaukee 5625-20 mounted in a Woodpecker's PRLv2 lift. It works great.

The price for that router on Amazon right now is about $150 more than I paid for it a little over 5 years ago. Wow! I'm sure you can find a deal on it somewhere.

[Keith Hankins]

My PC7518 is still humming 11 years in now. If and when it ever dies I'll put another one in it. It's cut a lot and I mean lot of wood. At the time I built my table they said it was the standard all others are measured by. I total agree.

[Nate Secrist]

+ 1 on having the Milwaukee 5625 in my router table. I really like it. It has been good my strong for about 7 years.

[Ben Rivel]

Porter Cable 7518 in a Bench Dog lift and cast iron table.

[Greg R Bradley]

My PC7518 is still humming 11 years in now. If and when it ever dies I'll put another one in it. It's cut a lot and I mean lot of wood. At the time I built my table they said it was the standard all others are measured by. I total agree.
It probably was built well a dozen years ago but they continue to seek the bottom of the quality in search of saving a few pennies here and there. The problem is that PC has cut corners since that was built and a brand new one needs to have new bearings installed since they build it with cheap Chinese garbage.
FWIW, I am continually surprised that Milwaukee seems to be holding their quality even though they are now owned by a Chinese company. BTW, one of my businesses is a supplier to Milwaukee and I have been impressed that they would continue to buy components made in California and shipped to China to be incorporated into tools that mostly came back to the US. That can't make sense financially.

[glenn bradley]

I've been lovin' the Milwaukee 5625 for many years. I also have a few of the smaller 56XX Mil's for handheld work. At the time I bought, the difference in quality to the other offerings was substantial. From reports of current buyers, it still is. Dad has run the Triton using the built-in under-table features for years. While these are not on a par with a heavy duty lift, they are a giant step above designs that try to bolt those features on and certainly better than the flimsy low-end lifts I have played with.

[Doug Hepler]

+1 for the PC 7518 I don't have a lift for various reasons, so I adjust height by twisting the router motor in the fixed base. This router and setup have been satisfactory for many years.

I covet a lift but this would require a new router table setup. I suffer from disabling wallet spasms every time I think about paying for what I would want. Besides, there is always a LV shooting plane whispering in my ear ...

Doug

[Bob Carreiro]

Triton. Own two of the big boys. One lives in a table.

[Rich Engelhardt]

Another happy Milwaukee 5625 user checking in!

I love that beast! It's a real pleasure to use. It has above table adjustment which goes a long way towards addressing the lift issue - - the one of needing one or not.

I also have a Ryobi 1.5 HP router/table set I bought years ago. It's actually a nice little setup for small things.
The height adjustment on it is the "loosen the ring, turn the base and repeat the trial and error" method.
Every time I do that dance, it makes me appreciate the big Milwaukee all the more.

One other thing that goes a long, long, long way towards making the Milwaukee a pleasure to use is the plate I'm using. I bit the bullet and bought a Woodpeckers plate and inserts. A bit on the expensive side - but - a real quality setup.

[michael langman]

I have an Hitachi M12 V in my homemade router table ad am very impressed with it. Quiet, easily make bit changes and height adjustments from above the table.
Not very popular on this site, but had to mention it. A bit less money then the others also.

[Jerry Olexa]

I have the Milwaukee 3 1/2 HP router in my table..Very happy with it...Ample power for anything...

[Cary Falk]

I have an Hitachi M12 V in my homemade router table ad am very impressed with it. Quiet, easily make bit changes and height adjustments from above the table.
Not very popular on this site, but had to mention it. A bit less money then the others also.

I also have the M12V. It is not made anymore and was replaced by the M12V2 which I know nothing about.

[Peter Aeschliman]

I have a triton.

Compared to the cost of a fancy lift and a motor, it's a good value.

That said, I do think it has some short-comings compared to a beefy router lift and separate motor.

1) the On/Off switch has a spring-loaded plastic cover on it for safety. Long story short, you have to reach under the table to turn the router on, or you have to take the switch apart and remove that door thingy.

2) Although it has a built in lift mechanism that allows you to adjust the bit height from above the table, you still have to lock its position by turning a knob on the router, which is under the table as well.

3) It can be tough to align the rod that you stick through the table for adjustment. Meaning, the end of the rod has to connect to the mechanism on the router. If the router is set low in the table, you kind of have to move it around a bit to get it to seat on the router's adjustment mechanism. Not a huge deal, but a little annoying.

So, if you don't like having to fidget with stuff under the router table, you might want to invest in a true router lift. But I think it's a really good value if you want a router lift, but don't want to have to fork out all of the cash for a full setup.

[Randy Rose]

I also have the M12V. It is not made anymore and was replaced by the M12V2 which I know nothing about.

I have the Hitachi M12V2 mounted in an RT 1000 table and have no complaints.

[Dave Cullen]

Milwaukee 5616-20 in mine. 2-1/4 hp seems fine for my needs. Above table adjustment too.

[Izzy Camire]

Thanks to everyone who has replied. I did not intend to be away and abandon my own thread but things took over.

Before starting the thread I was thinking of the Milwaukee but I thought would see what everyone said.

It certainly seems to get good reviews along with the Triton, Porter Cable, and Hitachi. Interesting nobody spoke about the Bosch.

I guess at this point I need to check prices. I have some time off coming up and I have a decent project involving the router table.

Thanks to all

[Michael Zerance]

I have a triton.

Compared to the cost of a fancy lift and a motor, it's a good value.

That said, I do think it has some short-comings compared to a beefy router lift and separate motor.

1) the On/Off switch has a spring-loaded plastic cover on it for safety. Long story short, you have to reach under the table to turn the router on, or you have to take the switch apart and remove that door thingy.

2) Although it has a built in lift mechanism that allows you to adjust the bit height from above the table, you still have to lock its position by turning a knob on the router, which is under the table as well.

3) It can be tough to align the rod that you stick through the table for adjustment. Meaning, the end of the rod has to connect to the mechanism on the router. If the router is set low in the table, you kind of have to move it around a bit to get it to seat on the router's adjustment mechanism. Not a huge deal, but a little annoying.

So, if you don't like having to fidget with stuff under the router table, you might want to invest in a true router lift. But I think it's a really good value if you want a router lift, but don't want to have to fork out all of the cash for a full setup.


Agree 100%. I regret buying it. I could have bought a separate lift and a 2 1/4 hp router motor for the same price as the 3 1/4 hp Triton. I think 2 1/4 is plenty.

The Bosch 1617 is a good router at a good price; that is the router I use in my router lift. You can buy just the router motor and a lift for about $325.

[Keith Hankins]

It probably was built well a dozen years ago but they continue to seek the bottom of the quality in search of saving a few pennies here and there. The problem is that PC has cut corners since that was built and a brand new one needs to have new bearings installed since they build it with cheap Chinese garbage.
FWIW, I am continually surprised that Milwaukee seems to be holding their quality even though they are now owned by a Chinese company. BTW, one of my businesses is a supplier to Milwaukee and I have been impressed that they would continue to buy components made in California and shipped to China to be incorporated into tools that mostly came back to the US. That can't make sense financially.

For their low end routers i'd agree, but the 7518 is still considered a comercial grade Router. I actually got a 690 as a freebee for buying something. That says it all. For all other router applications, I use festool. Thats not cheap but you get what you pay for.

[michael langman]

I meant to say M12V2 hitachi.. My age is catching up with me, could not recall.

[jack duren]

For their low end routers i'd agree, but the 7518 is still considered a comercial grade Router. I actually got a 690 as a freebee for buying something. That says it all. For all other router applications, I use festool. Thats not cheap but you get what you pay for.

Does the Festool route better than the other name brands?

[scott spencer]

The PC3518 and MW5625 are the mainstays for heavy duty applications. My MW5625 has been going strong for years now. The DW 725, Bosch 1619, Makita, Triton, and Hitachi all have their supporters too. The Hitachi is often the best value, and the Triton offers some great topside features.

[jack duren]

There all pretty much the same as far as usage. The color and design is a selling point as a new car would be.

[Greg R Bradley]

For their low end routers i'd agree, but the 7518 is still considered a comercial grade Router. I actually got a 690 as a freebee for buying something. That says it all. For all other router applications, I use festool. Thats not cheap but you get what you pay for.
Most of it still seems excellent and it is built like a tank. The local authorized warranty center sees lots of bearing failures and it seems they really cheaped out on those. That likely lasts through the warranty period for all but very heavy users. A few speed control issues. All in all, good. Just not quite what they used to be. Good bearings are cheap so not a big deal if you can change them yourself.

Also, the big Milwaukee in a router table sees some issues with wood pitch gumming up the insides. They have a big fan and run lots of cooling air through the motor. When used upside down without dust collection this seems to result in sometimes gumming up. It is worth cleaning it out with electrical cleaner (contact cleaner) some times.

[Randy Rose]

There all pretty much the same as far as usage. The color and design is a selling point as a new car would be.

+ 1 But even though the Hitachi looks like an alien from the Predator movie I bought one anyway. :)

[Randy Rose]

I think 2 1/4 is plenty.
.

+ 1 It`s all advertising mumbo jumbo anyway.
I`m no electrician, so I still can`t understand 3+hp on 120V
It`s like a 6 "peak" hp shop vac.
As far as I know "just ain`t happening"

[jack duren]

+ 1 It`s all advertising mumbo jumbo anyway.
I`m no electrician, so I still can`t understand 3+hp on 120V
It`s like a 6 "peak" hp shop vac.
As far as I know "just ain`t happening"

Well....Drop a 3.5 router bit in without hp and a speed controller and let us know what happens

[Max Neu]

I just bought a Kreg router table,router lift,and a Porter Cable 7518 router for doing some odds and ends,for a router table,it's a pretty nice setup.I also got the switch Kreg sells that allows the shop vac/dust collector to work together,plus makes turning on the router a lot handier.Kreg has some nice router table accessories that will even work with shop made router tables.

[Guy Belleman]

Used craftsman routers for years, then used PC, bought Dewalt and the big Milwaukee. All good, but after putting a Triton in a benchtop router table, I got a second Triton for a full size router station. I am done looking, The Tritons are quiet, built-in height adjust is smooth and easy, and the cut is superb. All those other routers I have sit on the shelf.

[jack duren]

Used craftsman routers for years, then used PC, bought Dewalt and the big Milwaukee. All good, but after putting a Triton in a benchtop router table, I got a second Triton for a full size router station. I am done looking, The Tritons are quiet, built-in height adjust is smooth and easy, and the cut is superb. All those other routers I have sit on the shelf.

I can't agree or disagree with your statement but can't see anything that you said makes me want one over another.

It really would come down to comparison of the options that would be better from one to another to say that one is better than the other, otherwise its a choice by color and price and one could pick blind folded between several brands...

[Ole Anderson]

Old Hitachi M12V in a Woodpeckers plunge router lift.

[Alan Lightstone]

I'm very happy with my Porter Cable 690 in a Jessem lift. Worked well in a Woodpeckers lift too, but I like the Jessem much better.

[Mark Blatter]

I went through the same process about two years ago and finally decided to spend the money and get the PC 7518 and have no regrets. It is a workhorse and is quieter than the smaller 690s and Bosch that I have. I love the slow start and as mentioned, virtually all lifts are built with the 7518 in mind. I would not change my decision even though it cost me perhaps $100 more.

[Randy Rose]

Well....Drop a 3.5 router bit in without hp and a speed controller and let us know what happens

Well, put an actual 6 hp (4400 watts) or 3.25 hp (2400 watts) draw on a 15A / 120V ( 1800 watts) circuit and let us know what happens. :)

( I get your point but there is a certain amount of marketing involved here.)

[jack duren]

Only have 20amp breakers for power tools.

[Michael Zerance]

Well....Drop a 3.5 router bit in without hp and a speed controller and let us know what happens

I've used a Bosch 2.25 hp with a raised panel bit and it worked great. Granted, I did take light passes but not because I feared overloading the motor but for a better quality cut. You could probably take deeper cuts with the bigger motored routers.

[Michael Zerance]

The lifts for the 2.25 hp routers are a lot less expensive than for the heavier motors. They also are quick release.


I'm very happy with my Porter Cable 690 in a Jessem lift. Worked well in a Woodpeckers lift too, but I like the Jessem much better.

Do you find any limitation with the 690 not having variable speed? I have a Jessem lift in one of my tables with a Bosch router motor and I am looking to replace the Triton in my other table with another Jessem lift. I am undecided on getting the Bosch (for the variable speed) or the 690.

[pat warner]

Small safe cutters, well balanced, <150 grams, <1.6" in length & width? Maybe PC 690.
A tool >25 years old, lots of up/down adjustment, reliable, powerful.
**********************************************
Big tool bits, derivations of shaper cutters, all the time? Then DW 625, PC 7518, Milwaukee 5625, or an extinct PC 519. Or better yet, a shaper.

[jack duren]

Small safe cutters, well balanced, <150 grams, <1.6" in length & width? Maybe PC 690.
A tool >25 years old, lots of up/down adjustment, reliable, powerful.
**********************************************
Big tool bits, derivations of shaper cutters, all the time? Then DW 625, PC 7518, Milwaukee 5625, or an extinct PC 519. Or better yet, a shaper.

Pat as much as I like the Dewalt 625 routers the Speed controller goes out. Have three and all have failed. Have replaced two and the third stated working again after it was out of the table. I run large bits on these routers so they get used a lot.
I will still continue to use the 625 as I like them.

Have you had much input on the Milwaukee 5625? Kinda like Milwaukee as well.

[pat warner]

Had one (5625); had run out problems new.
And they later had a kit to take the slop out of the axial play.
Not a great way to run a business, (MS and adobe do that too).
Nevertheless best of collets, reliable motor, good electronics, good motor lock.
Light wt. flywheel, I'd bet 1/2 of a 7518's; its compromise.
A thief is enjoying the one I had.

[jack duren]

Pat as always appreciate the input...

[Keith Hankins]

Does the Festool route better than the other name brands?

It's the total package really. It's the options, ergonomics, and most of all Dust collection is integrated into the design. Once you use their tools you will understand. Pair one with a hepafilter DC and its a pleasure to use. I've got a PC890 set, that never comes out of the box. The of1400 is in a class by itself.

[Jim Andrew]

I have several routers, the M12v is for raised panel cutter, as it is so huge, but since I bought a 3hp shaper, and power feeder, hardly use a router any more. Amazing how much you can spend on a router table, with all the accessories, and there is just no comparison to what you can do with a shaper.

[rudy de haas]

This is a fascinating thread. Some time ago I faced the same basic problem: what to get for a heavy router in a table (but didn't even have the table). In the end, I bought a used 3Hp shaper with power feeder (it's old, but rock solid - like the grizzly from the 90s when it was copy of the delta) and a big cast iron table. The cutters are expensive, and every time it takes 15 minutes to set up for a 10 second cut I wonder if I made the right choice.

For what it's worth.. my current conclusion is that it's a no brainer win for the router and table combo if the routing you do can be done with a small unit - like the Bosch or PC 2.25HP or smaller units and a similarly trivial decision favoring the shaper if you regularly turn bigger cutters in hardwood.

It's the more normal case in the middle that's difficult - so my advice to Izzy Camire here is to think twice before getting something like the Triton or Milwaukee that will be overkill for small jobs and yet not give you the power you need for bigger ones. If most of your work fits the smaller model, then adding a 2.25HP router to your table is going to be cost effective for you - after all, you can do many big cuts in harder woods with smaller machines by taking more passes (except that spinning a 2.75" cutter on a 1/4" shank at 20,000 RPM seems somewhat suicidal to me).

[jack duren]

It's the total package really. It's the options, ergonomics, and most of all Dust collection is integrated into the design. Once you use their tools you will understand. Pair one with a hepafilter DC and its a pleasure to use. I've got a PC890 set, that never comes out of the box. The of1400 is in a class by itself.

Have used. Question was about usage in a router table. Don't see the advantage...

[Greg Hines, MD]

I have a Porter Cable 890 with the fixed base for my home made router table, and am happy with it. I cannot change bits above the table, because the Rousseau table inserts are so hard to take out/put back, but you can change bit height above the table, as well as lock the height. Two extra holes in the top accommodate their adjustment rod. This leaves me the plunge base to use free hand.

Doc

[Izzy Camire]

This is a fascinating thread. Some time ago I faced the same basic problem: what to get for a heavy router in a table (but didn't even have the table). In the end, I bought a used 3Hp shaper with power feeder (it's old, but rock solid - like the grizzly from the 90s when it was copy of the delta) and a big cast iron table. The cutters are expensive, and every time it takes 15 minutes to set up for a 10 second cut I wonder if I made the right choice.

For what it's worth.. my current conclusion is that it's a no brainer win for the router and table combo if the routing you do can be done with a small unit - like the Bosch or PC 2.25HP or smaller units and a similarly trivial decision favoring the shaper if you regularly turn bigger cutters in hardwood.

It's the more normal case in the middle that's difficult - so my advice to Izzy Camire here is to think twice before getting something like the Triton or Milwaukee that will be overkill for small jobs and yet not give you the power you need for bigger ones. If most of your work fits the smaller model, then adding a 2.25HP router to your table is going to be cost effective for you - after all, you can do many big cuts in harder woods with smaller machines by taking more passes (except that spinning a 2.75" cutter on a 1/4" shank at 20,000 RPM seems somewhat suicidal to me).


Rudy presents a good point of view. The input on this thread has been great.

[John Sanford]

IF you're thinking about putting it into a lift, you can also go with the PortaMate. It's just the body, no base, designed specifically for lifts and CNC type applications. I have one, haven't used it much yet.

[Larry Browning]

Agree 100%. I regret buying it. I could have bought a separate lift and a 2 1/4 hp router motor for the same price as the 3 1/4 hp Triton. I think 2 1/4 is plenty.

Well I have to disagree, but only about 75%.
I also have the big Triton in my router table. I am not sure where I could have bought a 2 1/4hp router and lift for the $199 I paid for mine. My research said that I would have a hard time finding just the lift for that $199 let alone router and lift.
I also have to disagree with Peter on the on/off switch. I have an external power switch on my table, so the only time I need to reach under the table for the switch is when I am changing bits. Plus I kinda like the safety feature that requires me to flip the switch on the router to change the bit. His other point are valid though. But since I have never used a router table with a proper lift I guess I don't miss it or find them very annoying at all. I do not regret getting the Triton at all.
But to be fair. If price was not much of a factor, I would probably have gotten a proper lift and separate router motor.

[Peter Aeschliman]

Well I have to disagree, but only about 75%.
I also have the big Triton in my router table. I am not sure where I could have bought a 2 1/4hp router and lift for the $199 I paid for mine. My research said that I would have a hard time finding just the lift for that $199 let alone router and lift.
I also have to disagree with Peter on the on/off switch. I have an external power switch on my table, so the only time I need to reach under the table for the switch is when I am changing bits. Plus I kinda like the safety feature that requires me to flip the switch on the router to change the bit. His other point are valid though. But since I have never used a router table with a proper lift I guess I don't miss it or find them very annoying at all. I do not regret getting the Triton at all.
But to be fair. If price was not much of a factor, I would probably have gotten a proper lift and separate router motor.


I must've forgotten the way the on/off switch door works... my shop has been packed up in storage for at least a year since I moved into a new house and have been building out my basement shop. So it's been a while since I used it. I ended up taking the thing apart and removing the door mechanism. My apologies for the confusion.

I think you hit it right on the head: if you want a router lift but can't justify or afford one (which was the case for me), the Triton is the best value that I've come across.

when my new bsement shop is up and running, I won't have space for a separate router table. This time around, I'm going to spend the money to get a benchdog cast iron TS extension table with the Incra Mast-R-Lift (what a silly name) and a PC 7518. Not cheap, but should be a lifetime setup for me.

[Jim Dwight]

The biggest routers pull 15A. That isn't 3+ hp. Universal motors tend to be rated at stall torque and full speed. But they slow down as load is applied (without feedback circuitry which some have). So it isn't much of a rating. A 15A synchronous motor would be about 1 hp and actually do more work since it is more efficient.

The mid sized routers are about 12 amp. So the difference from mid sized to the biggest available is about 25% more power. That isn't trivial but isn't huge either. The only place where you will see it is with panel raising bits and other very large bits. Even the biggest routers require more than one cut. At most, you make one more cut with a mid-sized router.

I've used one of my 690s in a router table and current use an old Ryobi that draws 13.3A. The plunge base got sticky but the motor works fine in my router table with home made lift. I use an after market speed control with the biggest bits.

One of my two 690 motors has variable speed, one does not.

Place to start with routers is a mid sized with plunge and fixed base. After that, if you want a really big one or a really small one, great. But I wouldn't want to use a 15A for hand-held use and my little Colt will not do lots of things but is really handy for small bits. If I had to, I could do everything with the speed controlled 690. But I'm glad I don't have to use one router for everything.

[Pete Janke]

Still happy with a Hitachi M12V2 (since 2007), mounted in a Woodpecker lift, in a homemade router table. I experienced a problem with the variable speed switch a few years ago. I took it apart, cleaned out the dust, and it has worked fine since.

[Greg R Bradley]

Jim,
Completely agree with you about the nonsensical ratings of universal motors such as 3.5hp routers and 6.5hp vacuums that run on 120v. I find it about as offensive as Dewalt claiming their 18v Li tools to be "20 volts".
You can get 1.5-1.75 "real" HP on 120v with an induction motor.
Clearly a 2-1/4hp router is not more powerful than that. It is clearly less. However, the PC 7518 and Milwaukee 5625 are clearly WAY more powerful than the "2-1/4" HP routers. Amazingly the Festool 2200 feels even more powerful that that. Probably have to machine solid surface countertops to even matter because they are all really powerful. They seem to be getting some benefit from the electronic speed control as they just keep going no matter what you throw at them. Once you hit more than 5% slip on an induction motor, it just stalls while the universal motors with good electronic speed control just power through.

It will be interesting to see how my 5hp RAS does when I get it restored.

[glenn bradley]

Do you find any limitation with the 690 not having variable speed?

This seems to vary with the person. I set my router speed for the bit just as I change my drill press speed for the bit. Some do, some don't but, I get much better results when I spin things as designed ;-)

[Mike Schuch]

My first router was a PC 690 kit with the plunge base and router table. Did a lot of projects with it and it worked great. When I tried to do my first lock miters the 690 was not up to the task.

Now I am using a Porter Cable 7539 3.5hp plunge router with a "Router Raizer". http://www.rockler.com/router-raizer
The router raizer assembles into one of the plunge guide tubes and makes for easy height adjustment. The pair work better if you remove the plunge spring from the router.

[Curt Harms]

+ 1 But even though the Hitachi looks like an alien from the Predator movie I bought one anyway. :)

Maybe that why they're best used under the table and out of sight?:p. Does the M12v2 have built in above-the-table height adjustment and bit change?

[Tom Bussey]

For home shop tables where it is not going to be used as a shaper for long periods of time a variable speed router in the 1 3/4 to 2 1/4 HP in more than enough router for most home shops.

[Keith Hankins]

Have used. Question was about usage in a router table. Don't see the advantage...

You did not read my original post. For a router table... I said I'd recommend the PC7518 other applciation the festool.

[Guy Belleman]

Jack, the beginner of this thread asked for recommendations, and I provided my input. Sorry, I didn't make a comparison study for you, but if you want a thread that does that, one that provides an agreeable or a disagreeable insights, perhaps could begin your own thread on that topic.

[Izzy Camire]

I have noticed the Triton 3 1/4hp router is on sale for $250 at Rockler and Highland Wood Working. Seems like a decent price for a router that was well recommended on this thread.

[jack duren]

Jack, the beginner of this thread asked for recommendations, and I provided my input. Sorry, I didn't make a comparison study for you, but if you want a thread that does that, one that provides an agreeable or a disagreeable insights, perhaps could begin your own thread on that topic.

All I read is personal preferences. Without a dedicated thread on the topic it just repeats itself as a preference thread. I see no gain from 15 yrs ago on this forum or the others.

But... What does "this" router do that makes it better? That should be the topic...

I've got 20+ routers and several buried in router tables. I guess I come off negative sometimes but there needs to be a better way to choose a router other than by everyone's preferences of brand or color. There needs to be a sticky on the different classes of routers and the features + or - on each. Then most wouldn't have to ask...

[Steve H Graham]

I have a big Bosch with a Woodpecker lift. No problems. I don't recall the model # but it's the 3 HP job.

[John Lankers]

Jack, I admire your setup, very nice.

[John Lankers]

I too own a Milwaukee 5625 which lives in the table and never sees the light of day. I also own 4 other routers of different brands and what I appreciate the most is the Milwaukee is the least offensive to my ears, even though the noise level is the same.