Grizzly Siding Saw dimensions question

[Jery Madigan]

Hi folks,

I am considering buying a Grizzly eccentric sliding table hold-down assembly so I have a second for my Minimax saw. I wanted to determine if the T-Nut would work, so I emailed Grizzly and asked for the dimensions of the sliding table T-slot for a couple of their saw models. They wrote back that they don't know the dimensions of their machines. They couldn't even say if the hold-downs vary by machine. Pretty pathetic.

If any of you own a Grizzly slider, would mind posting the model # and dimensions of the sliding table T-slot?

Thanks,

Jerry

[Erik Loza]

I had a customer machine a number of those T-nuts for his Minimax slider out of phenolic scraps he got on ebay. Tough on machining tools but won't mar the aluminum slider and you can make any dimension you need on the router table. All you really need to know is the thread pitch of the eccentric clamp post. Drill a hole, then epoxy in a threaded insert.

Erik

[Mike Wilkins]

I have a Laguna slider and wanted the same T-nuts to attach accessories to the sliding table. I measured the dimensions of the slots, went into the Grizzly catalog where the metal working items are located, then found the size that would fit and ordered some. There should be a size available to fit your machine. Other sources should also have them; Reid, Grainger, etc. You could also look into some metal working magazines and find sources there.

[Jery Madigan]

Thanks guys, I'll take look at the catalog. However, they don't specify the thread.

I know the size of one of the machines from the specs. Height and slot look good at 5/8", but it is 1.5" wide and my slot more like 1.30. That is for the 14" model G0764. Backup plan is to mill off .100 on both sides, but it would be nice if they could tell me what the slot is for the smaller 12" - might fit. I do have a small metal mill.

Also, Erik - any chance that Delrin is robust enough? I have a 12" sheet.

[Erik Loza]

Jery, I don't know if just Delrin by itself would be stong enough. Once you flip the lever on that cam, it's a TON of pressure pulling up on that t-nut. The ones I saw were Garolite, which has some type of mesh-like fiber in it. You could also use a hardwood like maple or maybe Ebony. I've heard of guys doing that, too.

Erik

[Jim Becker]

Some of my jigs employ oak for the piece that slides in the tee-slots on the wagon of my S315WS. There are captive nuts on the bottom side which have a reasonably large enough diameter to spread things out. But I agree with Eric that for hold-downs, there can be a huge amount of pressure/tension when the cams are engaged, so something that's not really "compressible" is going to be the best choice to move in the slots.

[Jim Andrew]

I use a Kreg T track clamp on my Hammer slider. Used a piece of 1/2" thick plexiglass first, but it broke, so found a piece of 1/4" thick strap steel, and cut it about 1 1/4" long to spread the load out, the Kreg uses a bolt from the bottom, and the head goes under the piece of steel. The Kreg clamp is easy to use, not so bulky as the huge eccentric clamp from Hammer.

[Jery Madigan]

Thanks Jims. The Kreg hold-down is a good, thrifty idea. I can make a t-nut easily enough. I have some mild steel, just being lazy with the Delrin question.

[John Lankers]

I made these T-Nuts from 3/4" BB ply with a 1/2" nut inserted into the bottom 5 years ago. I don't like steel on aluminum, makes me crinch, and these BB ply nuts can easily hold clamps that apply 250 lbs of pressure.
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