How to clamp?

[Byron Trantham]

I need to attach two boards using biscuits. The problem is the "normal clamping surface" is too long for clamps - about 70". I have band clamps that are large enough but I don't think I will get enough pressure to bring the joint home. I have attached a couple pics to show the problem (I hope).

Any suggestions will be greatly appreciated. One note, I could attach to the two center dividers and use them as a clamping point - Yes? Or would this put too much pressure on the joint? These joints are also biscuits.

[Steve Clardy]

Use two of your longest clamps, say 36". Put the dead ends together, hooked together.
The adjustor ends will be on both ends of your project. Just tighten one of them.
Pipe clamps work the best, but F- style bar clamps will do it also.

[Steve Clardy]

Or any combination of lenghts to get you too what length you need.

[Bob Boake]

I have used a pipe coupling to put 2 pipe clamps together for longer glue up jobs.

[Don Baer]

Sounds like it's time to buy some 6' clamps....:rolleyes:

[Byron Trantham]

I have used a pipe coupling to put 2 pipe clamps together for longer glue up jobs.

"I shoulda had a V-8" :D I have pipe clamps that aren't quite long enough but a pipe coupler would work. Thanks!

[Rob Littleton]

Lets see if this makes sense........

If you get a 2x2 (for example) and make it a little wider than the base piece of wood you are clamping. Using short clamps, Clamp the 2 by across the base piece about 6 inches from the edge of the upright to be glued. Then, using your other clamps, use the 2 by as a biting point and the side to be clamped and squeeze......

Man, sometimes a picture is worth a thousand words......I hope this makes sense.

Make sure the 2 by is soft wood or put something between the 2 by and the surface to prevent surface marking.

[Jamie Buxton]

Use pipe clamps. Get long enough pieces of pipe to span your job.

[George Summers]

Yep, pipe clamp couplers work well but, just in case you want another method, lay a clamp from each end and measure the distance that they are short by. Use a piece of 1x2 or 1x3 about 8" longer than the defict and drill a 1" hole near each end. Put the dead ends of your clamps in each hole and tighten the adjustable ends on your workpiece.

George

[Steve Clardy]

You don't have to make anything with this.

[Steve Cox]

Dependng on the length of your bench this might work. On the end away from your joint clamp a batten across your bench. Rest the work against that piece. Make a pair of long thin wedges for the other end. Clamp one of the wedges to the bench with a gap btween it and the work. Use the other one in the gap to apply the pressure to the workpiece.

[Ralph Barhorst]

I have had the same problem and solved it by using 2X4's.

Take a 2x4 that is 8' long and attach a cleat near one end. Now attach another cleat at a point on the 2x4 so that you can place your panels with a little space left for two wedges. Use the wedges to apply pressure to close the gap.

I keep a couple of 2x4's in my shop just for this purpose.

[Dale Thompson]

Byron,
I went through the add-a-clamp agony for years! :( Get yourself a Kreig Pocket Hole jig and throw away your blood pressure pills. If necessary, use a couple of small clamps to hold a "stop strip" to your project. Then take your pre-drilled shelves to the sides, apply your glue, crank in the screws, remove your "stop strip" and you're done. :) :D

I LOVE my DeWalt Biscuit cutter but it is now "retired" to my tool museum. :cool: :eek: :)

Dale T.

[Jon Toebbe]

Get yourself a Kreig Pocket Hole jig and throw away your blood pressure pills.
Word. I'm new at this whole woodworking thing, but I think I made two smart decisions (thanks to reading advice like this here at SMC):
1. EZ Smart Guide
2. Kreg jig

This afternoon I had a couple of hours to "play" and managed to turn a sheet of birch ply and some poplar into the carcass of a rolling tool cabinet. The obligatory photos are forthcoming. T'ain't fine furniture, but it is sturdy and functional.

I've used the "double clamp" trick before and found it a little cumbersome. It works, but it takes a little finesse.

[Byron Trantham]

Byron,
I went through the add-a-clamp agony for years! :( Get yourself a Kreig Pocket Hole jig and throw away your blood pressure pills. If necessary, use a couple of small clamps to hold a "stop strip" to your project. Then take your pre-drilled shelves to the sides, apply your glue, crank in the screws, remove your "stop strip" and you're done. :) :D

I LOVE my DeWalt Biscuit cutter but it is now "retired" to my tool museum. :cool: :eek: :)

Dale T.

Dale, I'm a strong proponent of pocket holes but in this case all sides show and I didn't want pocket holes showing. :( Before you say it, I have never bought pocket hole plugs. :rolleyes: They would be visible as well, as I am staining this project. Thanks for your idea though; honestly I hadn't even considered pocket hole. BTW I'm going through the Kreig upgrade dilemma - are you?

[Keith Hooks]

You could attach wooden clamps to either side of the horizontal board to create a new reference for the end clamp. The drawbacks are that you'd be limited on how much force you could apply because the clamps might slip on the board face and they could also damage the finish.

[Dale Thompson]

Dale, I'm a strong proponent of pocket holes but in this case all sides show and I didn't want pocket holes showing. Before you say it, I have never bought pocket hole plugs. They would be visible as well, as I am staining this project. Thanks for your idea though; honestly I hadn't even considered pocket hole. BTW I'm going through the Kreig upgrade dilemma - are you?

Byron,
In all honesty, I didn't know that there WAS a Kreig upgrade. :o You've got to remember that I live in the backwoods of northern Wisconsin. :)

I mentioned "personal preference". When I have a joint that can be seen from both sides, I put the pocket holes on the "least" visible side and make my own "plugs". I can't afford the store-bought ones. :( I cut off pieces of a 3/8" dowel of the same wood at about 45 deg. on the band saw. Once inserted and the glue is dry, I slice off the excess with one of those "no-rake" Japanese razor saws. Recently, I've been shortcutting the "manual" labor by setting my laminate trimmer at a "zero" depth and hacking away at the excess with a 3/8" box joint router bit. In either case, a quick touch with the RAS gives me a very smooth finish.

"Personally", I LIKE the long oval appearance of the plug if it's done RIGHT! ;) I have always thought of "pocket holes" as being associated with "professional" construction. All things considered, Byron, you've got to consider the source (ie. ME). :eek: :cool: Anyway, as I started out, it's a matter of "personal preference". :)

I MUST be right, though, because in only 40 years of woodworking I have already made FORTY BUCKS! A friend of a friend gave her the money if I would make her a scroll saw portrait of Elvis. :D Since I didn't know the source, I couldn't return the money personally and I didn't want to trust a chicken outfit like Brinks, or others with that kind of cash! ;) :)

Dale T.