I need suggestions about some finish work....

[Ken Fitzgerald]

I have one last piece of baseboard to install and the finish carpentry for our new kitchen is complete.

The wall on which the baseboard runs terminates into a door way. The problem I am having difficulty solving is how to cut the "return" on the piece of baseboard that terminates into that open doorway connecting the dining room and living room. The baseboard is approximately 4" high, 3/8" thick with stain and poly finish.

In theory I should miter the end of the long run at 45º, miter the end of the return at 45º and 90º the other end of the return. The wind from the spinning saw blade is enough to lift that little piece.

Any suggestions for cutting it or alternatives?

[Pat Barry]

Does it need the return to match other baseboards? My first thought is to leave it as end grain

[Tom Ewell]

On the small return piece don't cut all the way through the trim, cut through the show side but leave a little 'tag' of material at the bottom rear to hold the small piece in place.
Break the piece off and put in place, the tag break will be hidden.
Make a few practice cuts to get the feel.

[Shawn Pixley]

Cut your return first to get it fit. Square end at 90 degrees. Cut small end off for return at 45 Degrees. If is too long, cut another piece rather than try to work with the dangerous cut. After that, measure and fit the long piece.

[Mike Null]

Any chance you can cut the small piece with a coping saw?

[Jim Dwight]

I agree with Tom and have done it this way. You don't have to leave hardly anything, I have finished the cut with a knife.

[Peter Quinn]

I like a table saw with a miter gauge and a wood backer. Most people cut trim on a miter saw, but that tends to send small off cuts flying. I miter the long pieces on a miter saw, cut the return on a table saw, its easy to set up a stop to nail the depth and the keeper falls harmlessly away from the blade, easy to retrieve. I have a little 8" makita job site saw just for the purpose when in the field, in the shop or at my own house I just use my cabinet saw. Its funny how different parts of the country handle that transition differently. Here in new england, in traditional construction, most openings without doors still get cased openings, so the base just dies into the casing. Puts some wood in place to protect those corners that would otherwise be sheet rock corners.

[Ken Fitzgerald]

I used the method suggested by Tom and it worked like a charm! Thanks!

[Tom Ewell]

Glad it worked for ya Ken, if you get into really small trims say intricate shoe molding cuts, setup a zero clearance rig on the miter saw that includes both the table and the fence. It really helps keeping those flying bits from going too far and the saw kerf lets you know where the cut will be relative to the mark.
The jig can be just two (flat) boards fastened together at 90 and clamped or screwed to the saw, if the saw is a slider you can adjust the drop of the blade to not cut through the 'table' of the jig.