"Bleed" from Paduk?

[Stuart Reid]

I have been working on a bowl from a board in which I used strips of Padauk and Maple glued up to make my board. As I was applying a base finish of shellac the Padul seemed to "Bleed" onto the Maple causing it to take on a reddish tone. Is this typical of Padauk or have I done something incorrectly? The same thing happened when I applied sanding sealer during the sanding process. I sanded to 180 then applied sanding seal. After that dried I sanded to 400 and noticed some "Bleed" onto the Maple. I was able to sand this out before I finished sanding the piece but now I can't re-chuck the piece to do that again. Is there any way to get the redish tone out of the Maple?

Stu

[Brian Kent]

Yes it is to be expected with Padauk. I do not know how to overcome it. I'll be interested to see if someone does.

[Barry McFadden]

I've read that if you use compressed air to blow all the fine wood dust out of the padauk before applying a finish it will help. I'm working on a bowl from a board now with bloodwood in it. I too have had the bleed from Padauk and thought it was in the sanding but learned later it is the finish that causes it. For the bloodwood I'm going to blow it off first and with the first coat of WOP I'm going to try wiping up the wood instead of going around the piece while I slowly turn the lathe as I usually do. I'm hoping that by wiping up it won't bleed to the Maple beside it then after that coat is dry I think I should be able to finish the remaining coats by spinning on the lathe as usual. Hope it works.

[Stuart Reid]

I did blow it with compressed air and wiped it with a tack cloth before applying the finish. I think you idea, with a little adjustment, might work. I am thinking I could carefully apply a coat of finish to the Padauk and then when that dries I should be able to put a coat on the entire bowl. My only problem now is sanding the bowl now that it has been finished, signed and turned off the lathe.

[Geoff Whaling]

Stuart I had easy access to a quantity of & use a fair bit of Padauk / Nara / New Guinea Rosewood (NGR) in my linear lamination work. The only surefire way I have found to stop bleed from the Padauk into other timbers is to not wipe but spray on a sealer or finish.

I've experimented a fair bit with NGR & various products available in Australia and have tended to prefer spraying nitro cellulose sanding sealer ( Wattyl Rediseal - http://www.wattylindustrial.com.au/documents/industrial/tds/timber/Rediseal.pdf ) sprayed as a drying coat (almost dries on contact) not a wet coat that may run. It is not very efficient time wise or setup wise but it works well for special pieces. Spraying well filtered shellac/DNA based sealers works with a small cheap air brush but I have found it is not as good as the nitro cellulose sanding sealer

[robert baccus]

I second what Geoff relates. Learn how to spray a dry coat of SS--back up & spray a very fine spray that will halfway dry before it hits the piece. Practice on an old piece of glass. Don't worry about the gritty look and apply several light coats. Your final spray of lacquer will melt these back to level. Padauk was valued as a dye wood(for cloth) long before it was valued as a wood.