Walnut Table Project: First coat is on

[steven c newman]

Will let it dry, and see IF it will need a second coat.
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Will have to rub out the top a bit..
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And a shelf
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I did get some screw holes plugged, and then trimmed flush
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I flipped the table onto it's top, for two reasons, one is I start with all the undersides when applying a finish, and two, I wanted to add some foot pads
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Just nail them in place. protecets the flooring, and the ends of the legs.

Will check it out later, to see IF it needs another coat.

[James Pallas]

Nice little table Steven. Thanks for sharing the build. From your past performances I would guess you already have something in the wings ready to take the stage.
Jim

[David Eisenhauer]

How did you mount the top to the frame?

[steven c newman]

I used a few of those corner brackets...
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There is just enough"slop" to allow things to move.

[David Eisenhauer]

Never thought of those before. I normally use shop-made buttons that can slide in a groove, but have owned a box of the "Z" brackets (metal versions of my wooden buttons) for years and just re discovered them in a drawer. I was thinking about using them on a couple of nightstands I am working on now. I also have a box of the "figure 8" gizmos for attaching table tops (bought a box of each 20+ years? ago) and have never used either. Not quite sure about easy installation of the figure 8 gizmos. No way you will get away with one coat of finish.

[steven c newman]

Second coat is now on. Waiting to rub it out later. Trying to knock down the gloss a bit. All depends on how #2 coat dries.

[John Kananis]

I've enjoyed watching the progress on this project.

[Frederick Skelly]

Nice table Steven! I've never used walnut but always wanted to - it's just so beautiful.

[george wilson]

I only ever use the wooden buttons that are screwed into the top,but the other end rests in a groove cut into the apron. These buttons have been in use for a long time,and allow a great deal of movement of the wood,much more than corner brackets. I'd encourage everyone to use the buttons if you don't want to find that your top has split open in the dry part of Winter.

I know that you will probably disagree with me,but you ought to take this advice seriously. Leaving slack in corner brackets may not permit enough movement,and the top will be loose all the time. Buttons secure the top quite well so it doesn't rattle.
,but permit quite a bit of movement.

[steven c newman]

Actually, there over a 1/4" of swing for the scews in the brackets. About like using slotted holes for the screws.
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Note the bracket with a screw in it? It will swing a lot as the wood moves. While the brackets are tight to the aprons, there is a gap between them and the top. Allows even more room for the screw to tilt. There are just four such brackets holding the top in place, one at each end, and one right in the middle on the sides. Designed a bit of "flex" into the attachment of the top.

Bottom shelf? One screw at each end into an apron. The cap has the screws. The two attaching the cap to the shelf sit in slotted holes. Allows for the top to move a bit, as well. There is a slight gap between the shelf and the legs, as well. Maybe a 1/16" or so.

Winter time..I build things on the loose side, Summertime, I build towards the tight side. They even each other out.

[steven c newman]

Ok, the sizes for this little table?
Top is 30" long, by 14" wide. Between the floor and the top of the top? 19-1/4" in height. All out of Walnut a friend dropped off one day. Still have a few pieces left over.....might see what else I can cobble up?

Thanks for looking in...

[steven c newman]

Second coat rubbed out, and a wipe on coat of O'Sullivan's Oil Finish buffed out...
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Different lighting made a difference...

[George Sanders]

Beautiful table, great work.

[Andrew Pitonyak]

I thought it was just a few days ago here was no finish on this at all.... Looks really nice!

[Jerry Olexa]

Nicely done....

[Jim Koepke]

Good looking table.

jtk