Tiger Myrtle. (small hand size)

[Stewie Simpson]

Slowly getting back into some saw making work.

Small hand size; Tiger Myrtle handle wood; as per clients request.

The handle shape after being cut out on the Scroll Saw; and the end grain sealed with shellac.

The handle shape will be worked closer to the line during the rasping stage.

Stock thickness(24mm).

Stewie;

http://i1009.photobucket.com/albums/af219/swagman001/small%20handle%20tiger%20myrtle/_DSC0073_zpsponul2to.jpg (http://s1009.photobucket.com/user/swagman001/media/small%20handle%20tiger%20myrtle/_DSC0073_zpsponul2to.jpg.html)

http://i1009.photobucket.com/albums/af219/swagman001/small%20handle%20tiger%20myrtle/_DSC0074_zpspszvz7zu.jpg (http://s1009.photobucket.com/user/swagman001/media/small%20handle%20tiger%20myrtle/_DSC0074_zpspszvz7zu.jpg.html)

[Frederick Skelly]

Hi Stewie,
Gonna be another beauty! Hope you keep posting the "how I built it" photos - I've never made a saw and find them helpful. This is probably a really dumb question, but why are you sealing the end grain at this early stage? I gather it must make the build go better or easier, but why?

Thanks,
Fred

[Stewie Simpson]

Hi Fred. The reasons are 2 fold. 1st'ly, even at this very early stage of the handles shaping, by keeping the end grain fibres sealed, I am proactively reducing the impact of any wood movement within the handle wood. 2nd'ly, the shellac is acting as a binding agent to the wood fibres, reducing the potential of tear-out during the rasping stage.

regards Stewie;

[george wilson]

You have some fantastic wood in oz!!!!!!!

[Stewie Simpson]

You have some fantastic wood in oz!!!!!!!

Historically, Tiger Myrtle derived its name from the similar markings found on the Tasmanian tiger (thylacine). Considered extinct from 1936. http://aso.gov.au/titles/historical/tasmanian-tiger-footage/clip1/

Stewie;

[Andrew Hughes]

Nice looking wood Stewie,It reminds me of snake wood.

[Stewie Simpson]

The handle shape has been rasped to the line; the edge grain then squared 90* to the primary face; the saw bolt assemblies installed slightly proud, then flat sanded flush to the handle faces. My preference at this stage is to place a numeric mark on each of the saw bolts assemblies so I can repeatedly refit them in their same location.

The next stage will be to complete the saw plate slot, cut out the spine mortise, and then install the saw plate assembly.

Stewie;

http://i1009.photobucket.com/albums/af219/swagman001/small%20handle%20tiger%20myrtle/_DSC0075_zpsqofhfwqa.jpg (http://s1009.photobucket.com/user/swagman001/media/small%20handle%20tiger%20myrtle/_DSC0075_zpsqofhfwqa.jpg.html)

[Stewie Simpson]

Note: The camera angle is giving a false impression the inside of the cheek is not perfectly rounded.

Stewie;

[Frederick Skelly]

Looks good Stewie!

[Stewie Simpson]

Prep work completed on the saw plate assembly. Final dimensions will be 14 inch x 3 5/8 inch below the spine. (0.025 gauge).

Stewie;

http://i1009.photobucket.com/albums/af219/swagman001/small%20handle%20tiger%20myrtle/_DSC0077_zpssj1pele5.jpg (http://s1009.photobucket.com/user/swagman001/media/small%20handle%20tiger%20myrtle/_DSC0077_zpssj1pele5.jpg.html)

[Frederick Skelly]

Hi Stewie,
Seeing the saw in this partially assembled state reminded me of an old question I've had. Does the spine stay on by friction fit alone, or is it slightly crimped?

Thanks for the continuing tutorial!
Fred

[Stewie Simpson]

Hi Fred. The spine is later glued into position. I will try to include more detail within this posting.

Stewie;

[Stewie Simpson]

The saw plate slot; and spine mortise are now done.

Stewie;

http://i1009.photobucket.com/albums/af219/swagman001/small%20handle%20tiger%20myrtle/_DSC0081_zpsx1mtmn7r.jpg (http://s1009.photobucket.com/user/swagman001/media/small%20handle%20tiger%20myrtle/_DSC0081_zpsx1mtmn7r.jpg.html)

[Stewie Simpson]

Backsaw handle fitted to the saw plate assembly. The excess length on the brass hardback can now be removed.

http://i1009.photobucket.com/albums/af219/swagman001/small%20handle%20tiger%20myrtle/_DSC0083_zps2utx2gh6.jpg (http://s1009.photobucket.com/user/swagman001/media/small%20handle%20tiger%20myrtle/_DSC0083_zps2utx2gh6.jpg.html)

Similar method used to align the saw plate holes to those pre drilled within the saw handle. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=tAwAUWomd0I#t=11

Stewie;

[Frederick Skelly]

Another beauty Stewie!

[Stewie Simpson]

If you have to rely on tightened saw bolts to prevent handle movement, its not a good sign.

[Patrick Chase]

If you have to rely on tightened saw bolts to prevent handle movement, its not a good sign.

Sounds like the sort of thing that tighter tolerances could fix. An engineer might be able to help you out with that.

Seriously, that looks like a very nice saw. I'd be honored to own something like that.

[Stewie Simpson]

This is where the magic starts within hand shaping.

Stewie;

http://i1009.photobucket.com/albums/af219/swagman001/small%20handle%20tiger%20myrtle/_DSC0085_zpsn3lwtsjd.jpg (http://s1009.photobucket.com/user/swagman001/media/small%20handle%20tiger%20myrtle/_DSC0085_zpsn3lwtsjd.jpg.html)

[Stewie Simpson]

Sounds like the sort of thing that tighter tolerances could fix. An engineer might be able to help you out with that.

Seriously, that looks like a very nice saw. I'd be honored to own something like that.

If you have to rely on tightened saw bolts to prevent handle movement, its not a good sign.

Hi Patrick. The point I was trying to emphasize; if you want to avoid the issue of sloppy tolerance within the handle fit, its best to follow the practice as outlined by Isaac Smith. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=tAwAUWomd0I#t=11

regards Stewie;

[Frederick Skelly]

Thanks for the update Stewie!

As an aside, that's an interesting clamp holding the handle. I haven't seen one like that before. What kind of clamp is it? The rubber boot at the bottom reminds me of an old shifter out of a race car. ☺

Fred

[Stewie Simpson]

Hi Fred. if you do a search on ebay for a ball joint swivel vise you may find some thing fairly close to the design I use. The rubber boot is there to stop debri entering the ball joint.

Stewie;

[Stewie Simpson]

I have a strong preference to remove the small area of saw plate that extends beyond the back of the spine mortise. If left as is , it can lead to a deflection along the saw plate. The thinner the saw plate gauge, the greater the potential.

Stewie;

http://i1009.photobucket.com/albums/af219/swagman001/small%20handle%20tiger%20myrtle/_DSC0077_zpssj1pele5.jpg (http://s1009.photobucket.com/user/swagman001/media/small%20handle%20tiger%20myrtle/_DSC0077_zpssj1pele5.jpg.html)

example
http://i1009.photobucket.com/albums/af219/swagman001/closed%20handle%20pink%20myrtle%2017/_DSC0058_zpslouskojv.jpg (http://s1009.photobucket.com/user/swagman001/media/closed%20handle%20pink%20myrtle%2017/_DSC0058_zpslouskojv.jpg.html)

[Patrick Chase]

If you have to rely on tightened saw bolts to prevent handle movement, its not a good sign.

Hi Patrick. The point I was trying to emphasize; if you want to avoid the issue of sloppy tolerance within the handle fit, its best to follow the practice as outlined by Isaac Smith. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=tAwAUWomd0I#t=11

regards Stewie;

Ah, I see - the two lower holes constrain the handle in rotation. The third hole is bored out to deal with expansion. Neat.

[Stewie Simpson]

Shaping of the handle has now been completed. Further coats of garnet shellac will fill any remaining open grain, and darken the timber to more of a chocolate brown.

It also represents the ideal time to focus on the next stage of shaping the brass back, followed by filing the saw teeth.

The non traditional approach to profiling each side of the spine mortise should look fine after additional coats of shellac have been applied.

Stewie;

http://i1009.photobucket.com/albums/af219/swagman001/small%20handle%20tiger%20myrtle/_DSC0086_zpsec5t65hr.jpg (http://s1009.photobucket.com/user/swagman001/media/small%20handle%20tiger%20myrtle/_DSC0086_zpsec5t65hr.jpg.html)

[Joe Bailey]

This is where the magic starts within hand shaping.

Stewie;




You are indeed a magician -- beautiful work

[Stewie Simpson]

I don't expect making further progress until after the weekend with temps currently above 35* C. No air-con in my workshop. http://www.ukworkshop.co.uk/forums/images/smilies/icon_redface.gif

Stewie;

[Frederick Skelly]

Another gorgeous piece of work Stewie!

Do you wait until this point to file the teeth just because you prefer it, or is there another reason (protects the teeth, etc)? I ask because I've seen kits that arrive with the teeth sharpened already - handy for people like me that don't know how to sharpen saws. So I wondered whether it matters somehow.

Thanks for the continuing tutorial!
Fred

[Stewie Simpson]

Hi Fred. If your heading towards purchasing a pretoothed saw kit its not a critical factor.

Stewie;

[lowell holmes]

Fred,

Also, I suggest viewing Ron Herman's video on sharpening handsaws. It is available ar Popular Woodworking web site.

[Patrick Chase]

Fred,

Also, I suggest viewing Ron Herman's video on sharpening handsaws. It is available ar Popular Woodworking web site.

I feel obliged to offer the competing argument, even though I agree with Lowell, have watched the Herman video, and think that it's great.

Saw sharpening isn't rocket science, but it isn't a "learn in a day" thing either, video or not. There are honest-to-goodness hand-work skills involved and those have to be practiced. If somebody with limited time and who mostly enjoyed working wood (as opposed to working on tools to work wood) asked me what to do, I'd tell them to buy a pre-sharpened saw or kit from somebody like Stewie, Wentzloff, BadAxe, etc. They'll get to spend many more hours doing what they enjoy that way. I happen to enjoy both sorts of work, and I suspect Lowell does too. To each their own.

[Frederick Skelly]

Fred,

Also, I suggest viewing Ron Herman's video on sharpening handsaws. It is available ar Popular Woodworking web site.

Thanks Lowell!

[Frederick Skelly]

Saw sharpening isn't rocket science, but it isn't a "learn in a day" thing either, video or not. There are honest-to-goodness hand-work skills involved and those have to be practiced.

Yes, that's clear form everything I've seen you folks post on sawmaking over the last couple years. To start out, I will eventually build one from a kit - there's plenty to learn about building a good saw without having to learn to sharpen it. But I thoroughly enjoy threads like this because I get a better feel for what I'll be getting into. (Lowell's video will add to my background.)

And I love seeing the work Stewie and the rest of you do.

[Stewie Simpson]

I have finished applying the last coat of garnet shellac to the handle. The handle will be put aside for 5 days to allow the shellac to further harden and tighten up before final buffing. I have made a start on shaping the brass back.

Stewie;

[Stewie Simpson]

Hand shaping of the brass back has been completed.

The next step is to bond the brass back to the top edge of the saw plate. .

Stewie;

http://i1009.photobucket.com/albums/af219/swagman001/small%20handle%20tiger%20myrtle/_DSC0088_zpswtxbfeqn.jpg (http://s1009.photobucket.com/user/swagman001/media/small%20handle%20tiger%20myrtle/_DSC0088_zpswtxbfeqn.jpg.html)

[Stewie Simpson]

To bond the brass back to the top edge of the saw plate I am using a medium strength Thread Lock. A thin bead of TL is applied to each side of the brass back slot, and the excess wiped off with a clean rag. The process is then repeated to insure a full depth of slot has been filled with TL. Allowing 5 min. for the TL to harden up, the saw plate assembly is then wiped down clean with a clean rag and Mineral Turpentine. Do not use denatured alcohol). Job done.

http://i1009.photobucket.com/albums/af219/swagman001/small%20handle%20tiger%20myrtle/_DSC0089_zpsosk7a7yi.jpg (http://s1009.photobucket.com/user/swagman001/media/small%20handle%20tiger%20myrtle/_DSC0089_zpsosk7a7yi.jpg.html)

Next to do is file the saw teeth.

Note: The shaping; setting; and final sharpening of the saw teeth will not be covered in detail.

Stewie;

[Stewie Simpson]

This thread has exceeded its expiry date imo.

[Frederick Skelly]

Another beautiful saw Stewie. Thanks again for the lengthy tutorial. I enjoyed watching your build!

Fred

[Stewie Simpson]

Thanks Fred. Its nice to know someone saw value in it.

Stewie

[Bill Adamsen]

The Isaac video was very interesting as is this thread. I'm enjoying watching it develop and I'm learning something new. Please excuse my ignorance ... with the high Rockwell hardness are these (the bits shown in the Isaac video) solid carbide bits? They have what appears to be an unusual taper and I'm just not familiar with them.

[Stewie Simpson]

The Isaac video was very interesting as is this thread. I'm enjoying watching it develop and I'm learning something new. Please excuse my ignorance ... with the high Rockwell hardness are these (the bits shown in the Isaac video) solid carbide bits? They have what appears to be an unusual taper and I'm just not familiar with them.

Hi Bill. http://www.blackburntools.com/new-tools/new-saws-and-related/carbide-spade-drill/index.html

[lowell holmes]

I bought that bit from Isaac and it is a good one.!! It doesn't wonder and leaves a crisp hole.

[Robert McNaull]

I appreciated the thread, I rarely comment on threads because I have little to no knowledge to add to the conversation. That handle is gorgeous as is the rest of the saw, but my eyes tend to get lost on the handle and the finish makes it pop very nicely.

[Stewie Simpson]

With family staying for the xmas-new year period its been difficult getting some time in the workshop to finish off this backsaw. All that's remaining is to file and set the teeth 10 tpi / 10 degree rake angle.

Stewie;

http://i1009.photobucket.com/albums/af219/swagman001/small%20handle%20tiger%20myrtle/_DSC0090_zpsxhpgcazq.jpg (http://s1009.photobucket.com/user/swagman001/media/small%20handle%20tiger%20myrtle/_DSC0090_zpsxhpgcazq.jpg.html)

[Patrick Chase]

With family staying for the xmas-new year period its been difficult getting some time in the workshop to finish off this backsaw. All that's remaining is to file and set the teeth 10 tpi / 10 degree rake angle.

Stewie;

Wow, I think I've already said this (it was apparent even before you shaped the handle) but: That is one beautiful tenon saw. I particularly like the "false seam" detail in the handle.

Out of curiosity, is the 10 degree rake a customer preference or is that how you configure rip saws by default? That's the angle I use, but my friends think my saws are too hard to start and prefer ~15 deg. I actually keep a (not-so-valuable but reasonably well tuned) saw with shallow rake on hand just for other people to use.

Also, how do you go about tooth cutting? I've only done it once, using a jig like this one (https://paulsellers.com/2012/11/recutting-saw-teeth-an-at-the-bench-method-that-works/), but I'm sure there are better approaches - that was just the one that I happened to have already stumbled across.

[Kees Heiden]

Another compliment. I am starting to become a fan of your work.

You do that grinding patern in the blade on purpose, don't you? It looks neat, have to get used to it, but not bad at all.

For my taste 10 degree rake is a bit much. But I am of the school of thinking that a few degrees more or less are quickly forgotten when ripping a lot of wood. Maybe I am not subtle enough.

[Frederick Skelly]

You do that grinding patern in the blade on purpose, don't you.

Hi Stewie,
I'm curious again - just how do you create that pattern? Is it purely decoration or is there more to it than that?

As I said earlier, you do beautiful work!

Fred

[Stewie Simpson]

Wow, I think I've already said this (it was apparent even before you shaped the handle) but: That is one beautiful tenon saw. I particularly like the "false seam" detail in the handle.

Out of curiosity, is the 10 degree rake a customer preference or is that how you configure rip saws by default? That's the angle I use, but my friends think my saws are too hard to start and prefer ~15 deg. I actually keep a (not-so-valuable but reasonably well tuned) saw with shallow rake on hand just for other people to use.

Also, how do you go about tooth cutting? I've only done it once, using a jig like this one (https://paulsellers.com/2012/11/recutting-saw-teeth-an-at-the-bench-method-that-works/), but I'm sure there are better approaches - that was just the one that I happened to have already stumbled across.

Hi Patrick. The following is the tpi templates I use. http://www.oocities.org/plybench/saw_teeth.pdf

Stewie;

[Stewie Simpson]

In an effort to move away from a reliance on disposable paper templates to notch the tpi spacing I spent an hour filing this reusable solid template at 10 tpi. Down the track I will do the same for 12 & 14 tpi settings. 10;12; & 14 are the more frequently used tpi I use with my backsaws builds.

Apologies for the quality of the photo.

Stewie;

http://i1009.photobucket.com/albums/af219/swagman001/small%20handle%20tiger%20myrtle/_DSC0095_zpszznhvad3.jpg (http://s1009.photobucket.com/user/swagman001/media/small%20handle%20tiger%20myrtle/_DSC0095_zpszznhvad3.jpg.html)

[Patrick Chase]

In an effort to move away from a reliance on disposable paper templates to notch the tpi spacing I spent an hour filing this reusable solid template at 10 tpi. Down the track I will do the same for 12 & 14 tpi settings. 10;12; & 14 are the more frequently used tpi I use with my backsaws builds.

Apologies for the quality of the photo.

Stewie;



Nice!

Also nice saw vise - I have the Gramercy and it made my life a LOT easier (esp when I put it on a sliding riser so I can adjust the height).

[Stewie Simpson]

Notching the tpi spacings using the 10 tpi solid template I recently filed. Excellent results.

http://i1009.photobucket.com/albums/af219/swagman001/small%20handle%20tiger%20myrtle/_DSC0096_zpsdy89sjuq.jpg (http://s1009.photobucket.com/user/swagman001/media/small%20handle%20tiger%20myrtle/_DSC0096_zpsdy89sjuq.jpg.html)

The notching template removed and the saw teeth shaped, jointed, and sharpened to point, ready for set to be applied.

Stewie;

http://i1009.photobucket.com/albums/af219/swagman001/small%20handle%20tiger%20myrtle/_DSC0097_zpsj08oejqk.jpg (http://s1009.photobucket.com/user/swagman001/media/small%20handle%20tiger%20myrtle/_DSC0097_zpsj08oejqk.jpg.html)

[Patrick Chase]

Where did you get that bevel guide? It looks like a highly evolved version of the one LV sells. The bubble level in particular looks like a neat feature - No more eyeballing horizontal...

Also are you using a needle file for 10 tpi teeth? I think I have that exact pin vise around here somewhere :-).

[Stewie Simpson]

The knowledge and skill set required to shape the saw teeth by hand cannot be compared to the simplicity of sharpening already pre formed teeth.

Stewie;

[Patrick Chase]

The knowledge and skill set required to shape the saw teeth by hand cannot be compared to the simplicity of sharpening already pre formed teeth.

Stewie;

From personal experience the one time I re-toothed a saw, I agree completely. I pay professionals to do that :-)

[Stewie Simpson]

Where did you get that bevel guide? It looks like a highly evolved version of the one LV sells. The bubble level in particular looks like a neat feature - No more eyeballing horizontal...

Also are you using a needle file for 10 tpi teeth? I think I have that exact pin vise around here somewhere :-).

Patrick. Here is the link for the saw filing guide. http://www.blackburntools.com/new-tools/new-saws-and-related/rakemaker-ii/index.html

Yes; I am using a 3 square file for 10 tpi.

Stewie;

[Stewie Simpson]

CHOOSING THE CORRECT SIZE OF FILE FOR YOUR SAW:

The most common advice given for choosing a file to use on a particular saw is to select one whose face is twice as wide as the edge of the tooth being filed.

Implicit in this rule of thumb is the assumption that a file wears evenly over its faces. In my experience, it does not. Rather, the corners of the file dull or fail first, even while there is still life left in the faces of the file. Rotating the file to a fresh corner restores the cutting ability, even though a portion of the face that was previously used is asked to continue cutting. This overlap allows one file to work for several different tooth pitches.

http://www.blackburntools.com/blog/concerning-saw-files-which-i-am-now-selling/

I am in total agreement with Isaac;

My preference is to work within the range of 1/2 - 3/4s of the files flat face width, to gullet dept.

Stewie;

[lowell holmes]

Well, there is a shortage of quality saw files and sometimes the various sizes are not available.

As a result, I sometimes have to resort to a larger file to shape and/or sharpen the teeth. I don't find an issue with file size other than wasting a large portion of the file.

In regard to shaping the teeth, I joint the tooth line to eliminate all teeth leaving a level and square saw plate. Using a strip of paper taped to the saw plate with lines on the desired tooth spacing, it is easy enough to re-tooth the saw. The larger file helps with this step. If you will make the edge of the saw plate red with a marker, and then file one mark on each each space, the tooth spacing will be defined for you. Try it on an old saw.

I use Ron Herman's technique shown in his video.

[Stewie Simpson]

Lowell; its always good news to hear from those who are shaping their saw teeth by hand. kudos for that.

regards Stewie;

[Stewie Simpson]

Set was applied to the teeth; a light stoning on each side; then the backsaw was tested on rip and crosscut grain to check for tracking. All good. http://d1r5wj36adg1sk.cloudfront.net/images/smilies/actions/2thumbsup.gif

http://i1009.photobucket.com/albums/af219/swagman001/small%20handle%20tiger%20myrtle/_DSC0099_zps1enh4sfs.jpg (http://s1009.photobucket.com/user/swagman001/media/small%20handle%20tiger%20myrtle/_DSC0099_zps1enh4sfs.jpg.html)

http://i1009.photobucket.com/albums/af219/swagman001/small%20handle%20tiger%20myrtle/_DSC0098_zpsevhjxp1o.jpg (http://s1009.photobucket.com/user/swagman001/media/small%20handle%20tiger%20myrtle/_DSC0098_zpsevhjxp1o.jpg.html)

http://i1009.photobucket.com/albums/af219/swagman001/small%20handle%20tiger%20myrtle/_DSC0101_zpsxtgmqovc.jpg (http://s1009.photobucket.com/user/swagman001/media/small%20handle%20tiger%20myrtle/_DSC0101_zpsxtgmqovc.jpg.html)

All done.

Appreciate your interest.

regards Stewie;

[Stewie Simpson]

Well, there is a shortage of quality saw files and sometimes the various sizes are not available.

As a result, I sometimes have to resort to a larger file to shape and/or sharpen the teeth. I don't find an issue with file size other than wasting a large portion of the file.

In regard to shaping the teeth, I joint the tooth line to eliminate all teeth leaving a level and square saw plate. Using a strip of paper taped to the saw plate with lines on the desired tooth spacing, it is easy enough to re-tooth the saw. The larger file helps with this step. If you will make the edge of the saw plate red with a marker, and then file one mark on each each space, the tooth spacing will be defined for you. Try it on an old saw.

I use Ron Herman's technique shown in his video.

Another consideration in selecting a file is the corner radius of the file. This radius increases as the length and width of the file increase. In extreme cases, the radius of the file can actually be larger than the front edge of a tooth. In this case, the actual rake of the tooth will be greater than expected, leading to unpredictable and unsatisfactory performance. This phenomenon is much more pronounced in smaller teeth (about 13 ppi and finer).
Furthermore, since the gullet takes its shape from the file, a larger file (with its larger radius) leaves a smaller gullet. With less space to carry sawdust, the saw will not clear the cut as well as one with a larger gullet. In general, gullet size and corner radius are of greater concern with small teeth and files, while face width is the more important consideration on larger teeth and files. http://www.blackburntools.com/blog/concerning-saw-files-which-i-am-now-selling/

Needle files: These files are made by Glardon in Switzerland, and are of the highest quality. These are superior to any file (new or old) that I have ever used, in both sharpness and longevity. While they are more expensive than traditional taper saw files, they have several advantages.
First, their durability makes them cost effective, particularly when cutting in new teeth.
Second, the smaller corner radius of the file makes them the best choice for smaller teeth (I use them for all teeth 11 ppi and finer). The sharper corner creates more room in the gullet for holding sawdust to clear from the gullet. There is some concern that this sharper gullet will not release sawdust that gets packed in. While this may be a valid concern when used in green woods, these fine teeth are rarely used for cutting these woods. Some have also expressed concern that the sharp corner creates a stress riser, but I have seen no evidence of this in any of the saws I have filed with them. http://www.blackburntools.com/new-tools/new-saws-and-related/taper-saw-files/index.html

Total agreement with Isaac.

I use the Swiss Made; Vallorbe 180mm, Three Square Needle Files. http://jewellerssupplies.com.au/needle-file-vallorbe-three-square-160mm-p-1149.html

I use NOS Nicholson (usa)Taper Files; and NOS Wiltshire Taper Files (Australia); for less than 10 tpi hand saws.

Stewie;

[Stewie Simpson]

https://books.google.com.au/books?id=P3GFBpaP9C8C&pg=PA179&lpg=PA179&dq=practice+over+theory+within+woodworking&source=bl&ots=hLR26g4srX&sig=3jTvCzj6FAnQ6S7KdEY6mhS7i2c&hl=en&sa=X&ved=0ahUKEwiomf7y-5TKAhVC2qYKHWZwABQQ6AEIVDAI#v=onepage&q=practice%20over%20theory%20within%20woodworking&f=false

[Pat Barry]

https://books.google.com.au/books?id=P3GFBpaP9C8C&pg=PA179&lpg=PA179&dq=practice+over+theory+within+woodworking&source=bl&ots=hLR26g4srX&sig=3jTvCzj6FAnQ6S7KdEY6mhS7i2c&hl=en&sa=X&ved=0ahUKEwiomf7y-5TKAhVC2qYKHWZwABQQ6AEIVDAI#v=onepage&q=practice%20over%20theory%20within%20woodworking&f=false
I like the part about woodworking not being like riding a bicycle. That's true for me for sure because I don't get to spend the time practicing to have the feel for it that others may. In fact, this is a huge reason why power tools are important for the everyday hobbyist IMO. Those tools help the less practiced and less experienced to overcome hurdles that are seemingly inconsequential to the experts and craftsman among us.

[lowell holmes]

Stewie,

Just curious, which saw set do you use?:)