Jointer plane purchase

[Jeffrey Cole]

Good morning, I am getting into hand tools and need some advise. I am going to build some tables and a bench to learn how to joint an edge. I need to buy a jointer plane. I have done my research and I feel that the Veritas Bevel-UP Jointer[05P37.01] is a solid plane. What are thoughts and advise for me. If you like another brands of planes please let me know.
Just looking for guidance before I spend the $$$
Thank you for your help
Jeffrey

[Prashun Patel]

I have the bevel up jointer from Veritas. It's the best of the 3 BU planes for me. I like the feel and action vs a bevel down jointer here, and I find it works very well. I also got the jointing edge guide. I like that too.

[ken hatch]

Jeffery,

A jointer plane by nature of its shear size is heavy. Traditional metal jointer planes are bevel down as are wood stock jointers. My rule unless I have a very good reason not to follow it is: How did the "old guys" do it? Then do it their way. They jointed with bevel down wood stock planes, when metal planes became available some used them but many continued to use wood stocks for I expect some very good reasons. Friction is a big one as is weight, after a day of prepping rough timber the difference in ease of use is huge. I will still use my metal stock planes to finish but to get it to that stage woodies rule. You need three, a Scrub, a Jack, and a Try plane, all can be found new from ECE for a reasonable price or from boutique makers for a higher but also reasonable price.

ken

[Matthew N. Masail]

I agree wooden planes rule especially with the larger planes. HNT Gordon also makes a beautiful try plane, I have one on the way but if course cannot comment until I've used it. Voigt planes would make you a double iron try that would be extremely versatile but like the HNT costs more than a Veritas. If I were going metal I would also cosinder the Veritas, the BU like you said or perhaps one of the new custom plane models. If your willing to learn the hard way, the big auction site might turn up a old used wooden plane on the cheap.

[Prashun Patel]

You guys have me thinking. I came into a couple ECE primus planes (smoother and jack) and I have to say I love these way more than my bevel up jointer and smoother. The only downside is that the blade mounting takes some time.

[Derek Cohen]

I agree wooden planes rule especially with the larger planes. HNT Gordon also makes a beautiful try plane, I have one on the way but if course cannot comment until I've used it. Voigt planes would make you a double iron try that would be extremely versatile but like the HNT costs more than a Veritas. If I were going metal I would also cosinder the Veritas, the BU like you said or perhaps one of the new custom plane models. If your willing to learn the hard way, the big auction site might turn up a old used wooden plane on the cheap.

Hi Matthew

You will love that HNT Gordon Trying Plane. I use mine as a short jointer for smaller pieces. It has a lot in common with the Veritas jointers, particularly the BU Jointer. These planes have a low centre of effort, and they provide a lot of feedback. In use, they often feel like one is using a large block plane. Although the Gordon has a 60 degree bed and is BD, the body is very low.

Let us know what you think of the handles, and how they work for you. In the end I added a handle to mine, the design of which was tricky but very educational (see the Centre of Effort (http://www.inthewoodshop.com/Commentary/Index.html) articles).

Regards from Perth

Derek

[Matthew N. Masail]

Hi Derek, I acually ordered the A55, though I also ordered one of the regular smothers and mini smoother, Ive read your post about modifieng the try plane (was a little paiinful to see I must admit, and also just thought the handle on the A55 would be more comfortable for a longer plan. Have you tried the A55 try plane ? Do you find yourself using the modified try plane ?

[Jim Koepke]

Good morning, I am getting into hand tools and need some advise. I am going to build some tables and a bench to learn how to joint an edge. I need to buy a jointer plane. I have done my research and I feel that the Veritas Bevel-UP Jointer[05P37.01] is a solid plane. What are thoughts and advise for me. If you like another brands of planes please let me know.
Just looking for guidance before I spend the $$$
Thank you for your help
Jeffrey

Howdy Jeffrey,

The plane you are looking at is a fine plane from a company who will be there if there is a problem down the road.

It is difficult to give a good answer to your question without knowing more about you and what you already have. What do you have for sharpening blades? Do you have experience or own other hand planes or tools? Have you worked on setting up other tools such as table saws or done automotive repairs?

As far as the Veritas Bevel Up Jointer goes my first thought is it doesn't have fully flat sides for use as a shooting plane. That may be its only drawback.

There was a recent thread on some problems encountered with a BU Jointer and tear out. This is why bevel down planes with a chip breaker are preferred by some.

There is also a lot of personal opinions in the answers to your question. Compared to the rest of my accumulation I have very few planes newer than the 1930s. Part of my passion is fixing up old forgotten things and bringing them back to a new life.

It can be tricky and if not careful, some investments in old tools can end up being a bust.

Good luck and let us know what you decide,

jtk

[Brian Holcombe]

My personal preference for flattening panels us a wooden try plane. Far less friction to contend with. I tend to prefer my wooden try for edge jointing as well. Just glides do nicely.

I use my LN 7 for shooting or anything where I lay the plane on it's side.

[Steve Voigt]

I agree wooden planes rule especially with the larger planes. HNT Gordon also makes a beautiful try plane, I have one on the way but if course cannot comment until I've used it. Voigt planes would make you a double iron try that would be extremely versatile but like the HNT costs more than a Veritas. If I were going metal I would also cosinder the Veritas, the BU like you said or perhaps one of the new custom plane models. If your willing to learn the hard way, the big auction site might turn up a old used wooden plane on the cheap.

As much as I appreciate the shout-out, I wonder if a hammer-adjusted wooden plane is the right choice for a newbie who perhaps has never owned a plane before. A woodie takes some getting used to, and adjusting with a hammer, while not in itself difficult, adds another layer of complication when one is already trying to deal with all the other aspects that need to be mastered. The mechanical adjustors on a Stanley/Bailey type plane are pretty intuitive; I suppose that is part of why they became so popular.

I think for a complete beginner, I would advise getting a nice old Stanley that has already been tuned, not one that needs a lot of work. You will be in business for a lot less $$$, and the plane will work as well as any. But a new Veritas or Lie Nielsen would also be great.

The good news is that whether you buy a nice old Stanley or a new Veritas or Lie Nielsen, you can probably turn around and sell it for what you paid. So, maybe best not to think too hard--buy a plane, use it, if you don't like it sell it and get another.

[Matthew N. Masail]

That's good advice, Steve. I was just rounding up some of the options I would think of. honestly for a beginner nothing beats a #4 and a #5 old Stanley's. you can joint edges very well with a #5 and those will also be two planes I would keep even if I owned many other types and sizes.

[Derek Cohen]

Hi Derek, I acually ordered the A55, though I also ordered one of the regular smothers and mini smoother, Ive read your post about modifieng the try plane (was a little paiinful to see I must admit, and also just thought the handle on the A55 would be more comfortable for a longer plan. Have you tried the A55 try plane ? Do you find yourself using the modified try plane ?

You know Matthew, I have never used the A55 - I just never availed for myself the opportunities when I have shared space with Terry at woodshows. He is the salt of the Earth, utterly reliable ... as are all his planes. It is uncanny that one can drop a sharp blade into a HNT Gordon plane, and it will perform perfectly. Are you getting the O1 or HSS (M2) blade?

Were I buying a trying plane from Terry today, and did not need the extra 5 degrees cutting angle, - I would get the A55. I do use the version I have quite a bit - it is excellent when working on a smaller, narrower board - and the handle I added works well. I am sure that the A55 would be better balanced.

Regards from Perth

Derek

[Bill Rhodus]

jeffrey, i agree with steve's approach. a new woodworker needs to first use a plane that works properly. if you try to use a plane that needs work, it could frustrate you. all of the used planes will work fine if you can get one from a trusted source that has the plane ready to use. if you are buying a plane from the net, sight unseen, buy one of the new, quality planes. of the new planes, the veritas will get you working for less than the others and does not take a back seat in quality.

[Frederick Skelly]

I have and LOVE my LV BU Jointer. Tremendous bang for the buck.

[john zulu]

I have the BU Jointer. Love it. Enough mass and blade configuration for most various wood grain and hardness.

[Ryan Baker]

I'll take my LV jointer over a woodie jointer (I have an ECE) any day.

It's too late now, but you could have gotten a nice discount this morning at the LV Cyber Monday sale.

[Phil Mueller]

I've been into hand planning for about a year now. I have the LV jointer with edge guide and the Lie-Nielson #62. I have built end tables, hall tables, sofa tables and a work bench. For the typical board length on these projects, the 62 saw more wood at least 90% of the time...for face and edge planning as well as shooting. The jointer was great to have on a few tasks, but unless you plan to consistently work with long material, I'd at least put a 62 plane into consideration.

By the way, as you have probably come to know as well, the guys recommending woodies do know their stuff and I trust their opinions greatly. I will likely go with a woodie or two in the future, but I do think you may appreciate the metals to start. Like mentioned above, you'll never lose much $ on LV or LN.

[Allan Speers]

ECE Primus jointer.

Light weight, wood-on-wood feel (lignum sole) and a lovely depth adjuster (once you learn how to use it right.)

I have maybe 7-8 true jointers, and all the others now collect dust.

[Trevor Goodwin]

I have an ECE "Short Jointer Plane". I bought this over other jointers because: 1. It has a 48mm blade, so requires less effort to push; 2. It is the most inexpensive jointer you can buy new - I didn't want a vintage Stanley/Record because the soles are likely to require flattening; 3. It uses the wedge blade holding mechanism - I've heard the Primus mechanism holds the blade well but is a pain in the ass to remove for sharpening.

In use I don't adjust the depth that often, so while the wedge mechanism can be fiddly to get just right, setting it is kind of a one time thing when jointing. I think a lot of people jam the wedge in too firm and have trouble retracting the blade afterwards (by tapping on the button).

[Matthew N. Masail]

You know Matthew, I have never used the A55 - I just never availed for myself the opportunities when I have shared space with Terry at woodshows. He is the salt of the Earth, utterly reliable ... as are all his planes. It is uncanny that one can drop a sharp blade into a HNT Gordon plane, and it will perform perfectly. Are you getting the O1 or HSS (M2) blade?

Were I buying a trying plane from Terry today, and did not need the extra 5 degrees cutting angle, - I would get the A55. I do use the version I have quite a bit - it is excellent when working on a smaller, narrower board - and the handle I added works well. I am sure that the A55 would be better balanced.

Regards from Perth

Derek

I'm getting tool steel in all the planes except the smoother and mini smoother, these I got off the special page - just couldn't resist ! The wood looks like marble on the site.... I would have asked Terry if I could have them with TS but I figured the M4 would be better for when I use them as scrapers. I finish up on a sigma select II 10k so I think sharpening will be fine. Curios how you feel about the different blades?

I got to use only one of his planes, a handled jack, about 4 years ago, It was brief but as someone who was making planes at the time I was amazed how beautifully balanced it was. Power transfer was perfect! I have no doubt his plans are real gems. I look forward to them arriving, Hopefully next week !